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appleto:ns' 

SHORT-TEIP    GUIDE 

TO 

EUROPE. 

[18  6  8.] 

PEINCIPALLT  DEVOTED  TO 

ENGLAND,  SCOTLAND,  IRELAND,  SWITZERLAND, 
FRANCE,  GERMANY  AND  ITALY ; 

WITH  GLIMPSES  OF 

SPAIN,  SHORT  ROUTES  IN  THE  EAST,  ETC.;  AND  A 

COLLATION  OF  TRAVELLERS'  PHRASES  IN 

FRENCH  AND  GERMAN. 


By  henry  MORFORD, 

AUTHOB   OP    "OVER   SEA,"    "  PAEIS    IN    '67,"    ETC.,    ETC. 


NEW   YORK: 

D.   APPLETON  &  CO.,  90,  92  &  94  GRAND  STREET 

1868. 


Entebed,  according  to  Act  of  CongreBS,  in  the  year  1868,  by 

D.  APPLETON  &  CO., 

In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States  for  the 
Southern  District  of  New  York. 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


I. — Cost  of  Short  European  Trips,    . 
II. — Time  Necessary  on  Short  European  Trips,  . 
in. — Steamship   Lines   to   Europe,  with   a   Hint 

"  'Round  the  World," 
rV. — ^Preparations  for  "  Going  Over," 
Y. — What  to  Do  and  Avoid,  on  Shipboard,   . 
VI. — Look-Outs  and  Land-Makings, 
VII. — Entering  Foreign  Countries, 
VIII. — Short  Trips  in  Ireland, 
IX. — Short  Trips  in  Scotland,  . 
X. — Short  Trips  in  England, 
XI. — Crossing  the  British  Channel,     . 
XII. — Short  Trips  in  France, 
Xni. — ^Paris  to  Geneva,    .  .  .  , 

XIV. — Short  Trips  in  Switzerland, 
XV. — Bale  to  Strasbourg  and  Baden-Baden, 
XVI. — Short  Trips  in  Germany, 
XVII. — Across  the  Alps  to  Italy, 
XVIII. — Short  Trips  in  Italy, 
XIX. — Short  Trips  in  Spain, 
XX. — Hints  for  a  Short  Route  in  the  East, 
XXI. — Travellers'  Phrases  in  French  and  German, 
XXII. — European  Money  in  American  Coin, 


PAGE. 
5 

15 


24 

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118 

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186 

204 

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243 

278 

287 

298 

321 


ADVERTISEMENT 

TO  THE   EDITION  FOR   1868. 


The  suggestion  was  several  times  made  to  the  autlior- 
compiler,  during  tbe  summer  of  1867,  at  the  French  Expo- 
sition and  elsewhere :  "  You  are  picking  up  materials  for 
books  of  travel — why  do  you  not  supply  what  everybody 
wants :  a  short  and  comparatively-cheap  Guide-Book  to  the 
countries  of  Europe  oftenest  visited  by  us  hurried  Americans, 
who  have  neither  much  time  nor  much  money  to  spend  ? 
Very  few  of  us,  in  proportion,  can  afford  to  travel  in  more 
than  one  or  two  countries,  or  three,  or  four ;  and  we  cannot 
expect  to  see  all  that  is  worth  seeing,  even  in  them.  Give 
us  something  concise,  in  not-too-small  type,  simple,  practi- 
cal and  good-humored — where  we  can  easily  find  what  we 
want  to  know,  and  avoid  finding  the  ten  thousand  things 
that  we  don't  want  to  know.  Tell  us  how  to  see  the  best 
things  in  the  least  space  of  time  and  at  the  least  expendi- 
ture of  money;  and  inform  us,  among  other  things,  how 
much  time  and  money  ought  to  be  consumed  in  making 
the  best  short  rounds," 

The  "  Short-Trip  Guide  to  Europe  "  is  the  result  of  that 
often-repeated  suggestion,  and  it  has  been  especially  de- 
signed to  meet  that  demand.  The  principal  effort  has  been, 
to  make  it  rapid,  plain  and  practical — to  fit  it  especially  to 
the  needs  of  the  thousands  of  Americans  who  visit  Euf  ope  for 
very  brief  periods :  absent  from  home  for  from  six  weeks  to 
three  or  four  months — to  point  out  the  objects  which  should 
be  seen^ra^,  if  all  cannot  be  seen — to  show  where  and  how, 


vi  ADVERTISEMENT. 

at  one  point  and  another,  the  short  trip  may  be  best  extended 
a  little  or  yet  more — to  make  it  an  instructive  (and  some- 
times amusing)  pocket-companion,  its  size  especially  fitting 
it  for  that  purpose — to  aid  the  hurried,  put  the  raw  and 
nervous  at  ease,  save  money  to  travellers  of  limited  means, 
and  at  least  lay  a  profitable  foundation  of  knowledge  for 
those  who  may  intend  to  travel  more  at  length,  more  at 
leisure,  and  pursue  more  elaborate  works  of  the  same  char- 
acter. And  in  this  connection  it  may  be  proper  to  say  that 
while  by  far  the  larger  proportion  of  the  matter  presented 
is  the  result  of  personal  observation  and  diligent  inquiry 
among  intelligent  travellers  known  to  have  gone  over  routes 
as  yet  unvisited  by  the  writer — stUl  there  is  an  obligation 
owed  to  Baedeker,  to  Murray,  and  other  professionals  long 
in  the  field,  and  to  the  cosmopolitan  Fetridge,  whose  "  Har- 
per's Hand-Book  "  is  always  found  available  by  those  who 
tarry  long  in  the  Old  World,  instead  of  merely  running 
through  the  best  parts  of  it. 

As  may  be  supposed,  it  is  the  intention  of  author  and 
publishers  to  continue  the  publication  of  the  "  Short-Trip 
Guide,"  punctually  every  year,  issued  earlier  in  the  follow- 
ing seasons  than  has  been  found  practicable  in  the  present — 
not  an  item  of  old  or  exploded  matter  left,  from  one  issue  to 
another,  if  something  newer  and  more  interesting  can  be 
found  to  fill  its  place  and  add  to  the  practical  usefulness 
of  the  series. 

New  York  City,  May,  1868. 


THE  SHORT -TRIP  GUIDE. 

(1868.) 


COST  OP  SHORT  EUROPEAN  TRIPS. 

Of  course  the  question  Whether  to  go  to  Europe  at 
all  f  underlies,  with  Americans,  both  those  others  : 
How  to  gof  and  Where  to  go?  The  distance  (of 
which  something  more  will  be  said  directly, )  is  known 
to  be  great,  between  the  New  and  Old  Worlds,  though 
it  is  really  only  about  one-eighth  of  that  around  the 
globe. 

"With  many  men  Time  is  the  great  object,  and  the 
want  of  it  the  great  hindi'ance  ;  though  they  may 
annually  spend  quite  as  much  of  it  as  would  be 
necessary  for  a  summer  tour,  in  dawdling  elsewhere, 
around  home  or  in  places  seen  until  they  have  be- 
come tiresome.  With  a  far  greater  number  of  those 
who  love  Nature  and  Art  to  such  an  extent  as 
to  make  travel  a  delight,  3foney  is  the  anxiety,  the 
want  of  it  the  hindrance,  and  the  belief  that  a  mint 
is  necessary  for  anything  European,  the  great  bug- 
bear which  confines  them  to  one  continent. 


G  SHORT- TRIP  GUIDE. 

A  large  proportion  of  this  is  a  mistake,  originally 
induced  by  ^vant  of  intelligent  enquiry,  and  materi- 
ally added  to  by  the  exaggerations,  not  to  call  them 
falsehoods,  of  those  who  have  been  over  the  desired 
routes.  "While  "  going  to  Europe  "  was  principally 
confined  to  the  wealthy  few  or  those  driven  by  busi- 
ness demands,  it  was  at  once  an  easy  and  a  tempting 
thing  to  do,  to  add  to  the  supposed  importance  of 
what  had  been  done,  by  overstating  the  cost  as  well 
as  enlarging  on  the  personal  adventure  and  peril ; 
and,  truth  to  say,  the  habit  has  not  yet  quite  died 
out,  now  when  the  many  follow  in  the  track  of  the 
few  and  detection  is  so  much  easier.  Mr.  Longbow, 
who  supplies  (as  he  believes)  the  centre  at  home  of 
an  admiring  cii'cle,  not  many  members  of  which  are 
likely  to  foUow  him  abroad — cannot  resist  the  temp- 
tation to  show,  when  he  returns,  that  he  has  been 
doing,  in  the  way  of  cost,  what  Ihey  had  better  not 
attempt  if  they  do  not  wish  to  fail  miserably  ;  and 
Madame  La  Mode,  flaunting  in  home-circles  the 
silks  and  jewehy  purchased  during  the  previous 
summer  at  Paris,  iL-ill  enlarge  a  Httle  upon  the  cost 
of  not  only  the  silks  and  jewelry,  but  of  getting  into 
the  "  society "  in  which  she  figured  in  the  great 
capitals. 

Travelers  tell  "  travelers'  stories,''  in  a  peciruiary 
as  well  as  an  adventurous  point  of  view  :  that  is  the 
truth,  briefly  told ;  and  those  stories  frighten  away 
many  who  would  else  enlarge  their  knowledge  of 
life  by  seeing  other  continents  than  their  own. 

Not  that  many  Americans  fail  to  spend  enormous 
amounts  abroad :  it  is  a  shameful  fact  that  we  do 


COST  OF  TBIPS.  7 

spend  more  money,  on  an  average,  in^  travel,  than 
any  other  nation  beneath  the  sun.  It  is  easy  for 
the  writer  to  recal  to  mind  one  gentleman  of  New 
York,  without  landed  estates,  the  working  of  capital, 
or  other  resources  than  his  own  hard-working  energy 
and  talent,  who,  during  two-and-a-half  months  of 
the  summer  of  1865,  in  England  and  France  alone, 
and  principally  about  London  and  Paris,  spent,  un- 
accompanied, between  $7,000  and  $8,000,  and  bor- 
rowed money  in  London  for  his  passage  homeward ! 
And  during  the  summer  of  1867,  a  well-known  gen- 
tleman of  fortune,  of  New  York,  visiting  London 
and  Paris  with  his  wife  and  child,  and  going  no  step 
beyond  the  latter  city,  found  the  $8,000  (gold)  which 
he  had  taken  with  him,  insufficient,  and  drew  on 
New  York  for  $2,000  additional.  Very  possibly 
these  figures  do  not  even  approach  the  amount  of 
money  spent  by  each  one  of  many  wealthy  or  wasteful 
Americans  dui-ing  corresponding  periods  :  they  are 
only  given  as  instances  happening  to  fall  under  per- 
sonal knowledge. 

So  much  for  what  may  be  spent  in  very  brief 
tours,  by  those  who  can  afford  plenty  of  money,  or 
think  that  they  can  do  so  :  now  for  what  may  be 
saved,  or  rather  for  the  question  upon  how  little 
these  brief  tours  may  really  be  made,  without  dis- 
comfort or  painful  compromise  of  position. 

There  was  a  country  clergj'man,  not  far  fi-om  one 
of  the  large  American  cities,  who,  having  united  a 
couple  in  marriage,  some  quarter  of  a  century  ago, 
was  privately  enqviired  of  by  the  well-to-do  bride- 
groom, shortly  after  the  completion  of  the  ceremony, 


8  SEORT-TBIP  OVIDE. 

as  to  the  amount  due  for  that  performance.  "Well," 
answered  the  clergyman,  "  I  hare  no  fixed  price  for 
such  services.  People  generally  pay  me  according 
to  their  means  and  what  they  think  that  they  can 
afibrd.  Sometimes  I  get  as  high  as  fifty  dollars ' 
twenty  dollars  ;  ten ;  five  ;  and  one  man,  not  long 
ago,  paid  me— ha!  ha! — only  think  of  it! — only 
twenty-five  cents  !"  "  Humph !  twenty-five  cents ! 
■well,  that  was  reasonable  enough  1"  replied  the  new- 
made  bridegroom,  extracting  a  quarter  from  his 
pocket  and  handing  it  over  to  the  astounded  ofiicial, 
who  had  thus  given  one  peep  too  many  into  the 
"  extreme  economy "  of  paying  for  wedding  cere- 
monials ! 

The  application  of  which  is  to  say  that  visits  to 
Europe  may  be  made  by  Americans,  a  little  on  the 
principle  of  the  Cincinnatian  who  burned  his  lamps 
all  day  because  "  lard  oil  was  cheaper  than  daylight " 
— ^that  they  may  go,  if  they  will,  quite  as  cheaply  as 
they  can  remain  at  home,  possibly  a  Httle  cheaper. 
This,  however,  might  be  like  the  twenty-five  cents  of 
the  penurious  bridegroom,  and  would  involve  the 
steerage  of  the  ships,  the  third-class  cattle-pens  of 
the  European  railways,  and  lodging  somewhere  in 
the  back-slums  of  any  cities  visited. 

Still,  even  in  the  steerage,  on  some  of  the  best- 
appointed  hues  (about  which  something  definite  in 
due  place)  passages  may  be  made  with  much  less 
discomfort  than  most  stay-at-home  people  suppose  ; 
and  it  is  not  at  all  certain  that  thousands  of  hardy 
persons,  limited  in  means,  who  spend  the  requisite 
amounts  of  time  and  money  on  very  questionable 


COST  OF  TRIPS.  9 

home-amusements  approaching  to  vices,  might  not 
do  well  to  tempt  a  little  rugged  life  in  the  forward 
parts  of  the  ships  that  carry  over  their  wealthy 
brothers  in  the  saloon-cabins.  For  on  those  best 
lines  the  discomforts,  inconveniences  and  unhealthi- 
nesses  of  steerage-passage  have  all  been  materially 
amehorated  within  the  past  three  or  four  years  :  the 
sleeping  accommodations  on  many  of  them  are  en- 
durable if  no  more  ;  the  food  is  almost  always  plen- 
tiful and  generally  excellent ;  the  amount  of  amuse- 
ment enjoyed  is  always  greater  than  that  attainable 
by  the  "  stiffer  "  people  at  the  stern  ;  and  the  safety 
to  person  is  necessarily  the  same  except  under  cir- 
cumstances of  gross  carelessness. 

Let  us  see,  for  the  benefit  of  those  very  hmited  in 
means  and  still  desirous  to  see  a  Httle  fragment  of 
the  Old  World — ^what  would  be  the  absolute  cost  of 
doing  what  emigrants  of  both  sexes  and  aU  countries 
very  often  do  for  the  sake  of  spending  a  few  days 
with  friends  in  the  places  of  nativity.  Say  that  six 
weeks'  time  is  attainable,  and  let  the  cost  of  that  six 
weeks  be  measured  in  current  greenbacks. 

Steerage  passage  to  Liverpool,  $30 — return  $35  : 
total,  $65.  Time  not  on  board  ship,  about  three 
weeks  ;  board,  for  that  timfe,  average  of  $10  per 
week,  $30.  Expenses  of  sight-seeing  about  Liver- 
pool, London  and  some  neighboring  towns,  during 
that  period,  $10.  Occasional  necessary  conveyance, 
the  feet  being  principally  trusted  to,  $25.  Inciden- 
tal expenses,  Uberally  calculated,  $20.  Total,  $150, 
greenbacks !  $20  more  would  enable  the  cheap- 
tourist  to  land  in  Lreland  on  the  way,  see  Dubhn, 


10  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

Cork,  Blarney  Castle  and  the  Lakes  of  KiUarney ; 
and  $30  added  to  that  would  supply  a  run  up  to 
Scotland,  a  view  of  Edinburgh,  Glasgow,  the  Scottish 
Lakes  and  Highlands.  Grand  total,  §200,  green- 
backs ;  with  a  certainty  that  any  economical  person, 
in  good  health  and  temper,  could  reduce  that  sum 
by  at  least  $25,  or  to  $175.  Another  $30  added  to 
the  grand  total,  or  fi'om  $205  to  $230,  would  afford 
a  run  across  the  British  Channel,  to  Paris,  with  three 
or  four  days'  sights  of  that  most  enchanting  of  cities. 
How  many  comparatively-poor  men  are  there,  with 
longing  and  hopeless  desires  after  seeing  other 
countries  than  their  own,  who  never  make  any  calcu- 
lation or  effort  to  such  an  end,  and  yet  who  could 
and  would  compass  it  if  they  fairly  understood  the 
comparative  trifle  for  which  so  much  might  be 
enjoyed ! 

One  of  the  greatest  of  American  travelers,  Mr. 
Bayard  Taylor,  made  his  first  European  excursion 
under  circumstances  quite  as  ilHberal  as  anything 
here  indicated — "did"  Great  Britain  and  a  very 
considerable  portion  of  the  continent  on  foot,  except 
with  rare  instances  of  riding,  and  remained  not  less 
than  six  or  seven  months,  his  whole  expenditure 
being  only  about  $500,  and  the  fortunate  result  of 
his  travel  that  successful  volume  "  Views- A-foot ;  or, 
Europe  Seen  A\dth  Knapsack  and  Staff."  And  it  is 
very  doubtful  whether  in  any  portion  of  his  later 
experience,  in  all  descriptions  of  traveling  "  state " 
up  to  that  of  Secretaiy  of  Legation  at  St.  Peters- 
burg, he  has  ever  enjoyed  his  wandeiings  better 
than  when  making  that  first  essay  as  a  poor  boy 


COST  OF  TRIPS.  11 

But  the  figures  already  given,  represent,  of  course, 
the  minimum  possibility  of  travel  in  the  most-easily- 
attainable  European  countries,  comj^atible  with  even 
the  decencies  of  life,  without  too  many  of  its  com- 
forts ;  and  it  is,  equally  of  course,  with  that  class  of 
people  standing  midway  between  the  possible  steer- 
age-passenger and  the  traveler  en  prince,  that  we  have 
next  and  principally  to  do.  The  most  important 
question  of  tliis  paper  is — ^Vllat  need  he  the  expenses, 
for  a  certain  round,  of  a  traveler'  going  first-class  and 
demanding  all  the  comforts,  and  yet  indisposed  to  icaste 
money  on  costly  luxuries  ? 

To  answer  that  question,  then,  as  inteUigibly  as 
may  be  consistent  with  brevity. 

For  six  to  seven  weeks'  absence  from  home,  visiting 
portions  of  England,  Ii'eland,  Scotland  and  France, 
only. 

Ticket *to  Livei-pool  and  return,  $180  to  $300  (gold) 
— say  an  average  of  $225,  for  which  all  necessary 
comfort  and  quite  sufficient  "  style  "  can  be  secured. 
Average  board  of  the  three  weeks  off-ship,  $15  to  $20 
per  week — say  $60.  Traveling  expenses,  railway  and 
carriage  fares,  etc.,  $150.  Maps,  pictures,  curiosities, 
books,  etc.  (not  all  necessary,  but  inevitable),  $50. 
Incidental  expenses,  for  wliieh  no  name  can  be  given  ; 
money  to  guides,  beggars,  stewards  and  servants  ; 
money  lost  and  wasted,  with  an  occasional  indulgence 
in  a  luxuiy,  not  including  costly  wines  or  "  society," 
gambhng  or  other  vices — $50.  Total,  $535  gold  ;  or, 
with  gold  at  140,  about  $750  currency.  $75  gold  or 
$105  currency  may  easUy  be  saved  fi'om  this,  by  a 
very  careful  person,   leaving  the  expenditure   $4G0 


12  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

gold  or  $645  currency.  For  this,  necessarily  brief 
but  quite  satisfactory  acquaintance  may  be  made,  in 
succession,  with  Cork,  the  Lakes  of  Killamey,  and 
Dublin,  in  Ireland  ;  Liverpool,  Chester,  London  (with 
its  surroundings),  in  England ;  Dieppe,  Eouen  and 
Paris  (with  its  surroundings),  in  France  ;  Edinburgh, 
Glasgow  and  the  Perthshire  Highlands,  in  Scotland. 

For  ten  weeks'  absence,  an  estimate  of  §200  gold 
additional  may  safely  be  made,  bringing  the  total 
outlay  up  to  say  $735  gold  or  $1000  cun-enc}^ ;  and 
this  wiU.  secure,  in  addition  to  the  round  ah-eady 
named,  the  Cumberland  Lakes  and  Shakspeare 
Neighborhood  of  England,  with  Birmingham,  Man- 
chester and  York  ;  a  more  extended  examination  of 
both  London  and  Paris ;  a  rapid  run  through  the 
more  frequented  parts  of  Switzerland,  and  so  far  into 
Germany  as  Baden-Baden  and  the  Black  Forest. 

For  three  months'  (thirteen  or  fourteeil  weeks) 
absence,  another  $200  gold  may  be  added,  bringing 
the  amount  up  to  say  $935,  or  $1275  currency  ;  and 
with  this  aU  the  foregoing  may  be  done,  with  the 
addition  of  some  of  the  principal  Gennan  cities  ;  the 
Rhine  ;  Holland  and  Belgium ;  the  more  laborious 
passes  of  Switzerland  ;  one  or  two  of  the  French  and 
EngHsh  Channel  watering-places  ;  the  Scottish  "West- 
ern Highlands  ;  and  the  Giant's  Causeway,  Belfast 
and  some  of  the  other  towns  in  the  North  of  L-eland. 

Four  months  wiU  add  to  this  another  $200  or 
possibly  $250  gold,  making  the  total  say  $1170,  or 
$1600  to  $1650  cuiTency  ;  and  with  this  expenditure 
to  all  the  foregoing  may  be  added  a  run  across  the 
Alps  to  the  Itahan  Lakes,  Turin,  Florence,  Rome  and 


COST  OF  TRIPS.  13 

Venice,  -SN-ith  return  by  Marseilles  and  the  South  of 
France  and  a  consequent  glimpse  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean. 

At  this  point  the  phrase  "  short  trip  "  may  be  said 
to  be  exhausted  ;  for  only  people  of  liberal  means 
and  abundant  leisure  are  likely  to  go  far  beyond  in 
any  one  ^dsit  abroad,  and  to  them  these  calculations 
possess  no  interest  Avhatever.  Added  to  what  has 
been  ah-eady  named,  Spain  and  Portugal  in  one 
dii'ection  ;  Eastern  Germany  and  Austria  in  another  ; 
Greece,  Turkey  and  the  Asiatic  and  African  East  in 
another  ;  and  Sweden,  Norway,  Russia,  etc.,  in  yet 
another — constitute  tours  not  often  entered  upon  by 
those  who  have  no  special  interest  calHng  them  there, 
and  who  have  yet  occasion  to  count  time  and  money 
before  starting. 

The  foregoing  figures  are  certainly  not  startling, 
and  yet  they  have  been  aU  liberally  as  well  as  care- 
fully made,  and  all  of  them  verified  by  reliable  expe- 
rience. Twice  as  much  can  be  thrown  axmy,  on  either 
route  ;  and  a  considerable  amount  above  the  estimate 
may  he  frittered  away,  if  due  diligence  is  not  observed  ; 
but  there  is  no  occasion  whatever  of  going  beyond 
the  computation,  if  gross  negligences  do  not  allow, 
or  costly  luxuries  or  yet  more  costly  vices  do  not 
induce,  the  additional  expenditure. 

Common  sense,  without  even  the  aid  of  experience, 
will  indicate  that  there  are  always  possibilities  of 
sickness,  accident,  or  some  other  cause  of  detention, 
levying  extraordinary  expense — and  that,  therefore, 
it  is  always  best  to  have  a  little  "  margin  "  of  money 
in  pocket  or  vithin  reach  ;  but  the  chances  of  either 


14  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

are  scarcely  one  in  an  hundred,  and  on  most  of  the 
routes  specified  careful  men  can  save  enough  from 
the  figures  given,  to  supply  themselves  with  even  that 
"  margin,"  while  there  is  always  the  option,  in  the 
event  of  unforeseen  embarrassment,  of  shortening  the 
trip  contemplated  and  hoping  for  "better  luck  next 
time." 


n. 

TIME  NECESSARY  ON  ORDINARY  EUROPEAN  ROUTES. 

A  CONSIDERABLE  portioD.  of  wliat  miglit  have  been 
said  in  this  paper,  has  found  place  in  the  one  preced- 
ing— as  in  that  the  round  that  may  be  safely  attempted 
within  each  of  certain  given  periods,  has  been  inci- 
dentally "mentioned. 

But  there  is  room  and  even  necessity  for  something 
more,  if  this  httle  volume  is  to  be  made  to  fixlfil  its 
full  purpose.  For  it  is  especially  designed  for  Amer- 
icans ;  and  Americans  sometimes  need  to  be  reminded 
of  their  own  characteristics,  quite  as  much  as  others 
to  be  informed  of  them. 

There  are  two  misunderstandings,  on  this  question 
of  Time,  both  of  which  need  to  be  corrected.  The 
first  is  an  impression  that  everxjthivg  can  be  done 
within  a  hmited  space,  and  the  other  that  nothwg ! 
Americans  generally  fall  into  the  first  error ;  those 
who  attempt  to  guide  without  understanding  them, 
tumble  into  the  second.  Not  even  the  most  incarnate 
American  can  rival  Puck  and  "put  a  girdle"  (even 
one  of  travel)  "  round  the  earth  in  forty  minutes  ;" 
and  yet  he  certainly  can  go  farther  and  faster  with  a 
fair  appreciation  of  what  he  sees  and  hears,  than  any 
other  created  being. 

The  Money  obstacle,  which  keeps  at  home  so  many 
of  those  who  desire  to  travel  and  who  would  travel 


16  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

but  for  its  existence,  has  already  been  alluded  to. 
The  obstacle  of  Time  is  only  secondary  in  importance 
and  scarcely  secondary  in  its  effects. 

"  Oh,  there  is  no  use  of  my  going  to  Europe,  with 
only  such  a  httle  time  at  my  disposal!"  almost  pet- 
tishly says  the  prospective  possessor  of  two  or  three 
months  of  leisure.  "  Think  that  I  am  going  to  cross 
the  Atlantic,  without  being  able  to  see  the  whole  of 
it  when  I  do  !    No — wait !" 

He  does  "  wait,"  and  one  of  two  things  is  \he  result. 
Either  he  defers  going,  until  growing  entanglements 
make  it  impossible,  or  he  rushes  over,  at  last,  under 
the  impression  that  he  must  repay  himself  for  waiting 
by  going  over  the  whole  continent,  with  all  its  islands, 
in  the  one  visit  and  at  railway  speed — the  last  result 
being  that  he  "  conglomerates  "  everything,  even  if  he 
sees  it,  and  brings  away  a  dim  doubt  whether  St. 
Peter's  is  not  on  the  top  of  Jura  and  the  gi-eat  clock 
of  Strasbourg  stowed  away  somewhere  in  Westmin- 
ster Abbey  or  the  Madeleine. 

Meanwhile  the  European,  or  the  man  of  any  other 
country  whatever  than  America,  scoffs  and  sneers  at 
the  idea  that  he  can  see  anything  whatever  without 
staying  a  month  in  each  particular  place,  and  the 
American  obtains  a  reputation  for  "  rushing  too  fast " 
when  he  is  really  behaving  very  sensibly  in  that 
regard.  It  is  for  the  purpose  of  getting  at  the  truth 
and  the  "  golden  mean  "  in  this  special  particular, 
that  the  present  paper  is  written — for  the  pui-pose  of 
inducing  less  of  that  fatal  "waiting,"  less  of  that 
crowding  too  many  countries  together  and  exhausting 
energy  in  seeing  things  that  are  really  of  no  conse- 


TIME  OF  TRIPS.  17 

quence  when  others  of  the  kind  have  been  sufficiently 
seen  and  studied. 

Assuming  the  fact  that  the  cause  of  intelligent 
travel  would  be  materially  subserved  by  people  going 
over  oftener,  for  special  routes  and  without  the  weak 
variety  of  "thegi-and  tour  or  nothing!" — assuming 
this,  which  is  a  fact  appealing  to  health,  intelligence 
and  common-sense,  just  as  does  the  projoriety  of 
spending  one  day  in  every  week  on  the  sea-shore  at 
enervating  midsummer,  instead  of  working  every  day 
for  the  three  hot  months  in  order  to  find  time  for 
two  weeks  there  at  the  end —  Wliat  are  the  spaces  of 
time  really  needed  by  Americans  for  certain  special 
objects  of  travel  ? 

Let  us  dissect  some  of  the  routes  already  named, 
as  the  most  intelligible  mode  of  arriving  at  the  time 
which  they  really  need  occupy,  to  a  quick-wdtted 
and  inteUigent  traveler. 

For  the  trip  of  six  to  seven  weeks  ($535  gold — 
$750  currency).  Time  consumed  on  ship,  going  and 
returning,  three  weeks,  leaving  thi-ee  to  four  weeks 
ashore.  At  and  about  Cork,  1  day.  Cork  to  Lakes 
of  Killarney,  and  at  Lakes,  2  days.  Killarney  to 
Dublin  and  at  Dublin,  2  days.  Dubhn  to  Livei-pool, 
I  day.  Liverpool  and  Chester,  2  days.  Liverpool 
to  London,  i  day.  London  and  suburbs,  G  days. 
London  to  Paris,  Avith  stop  at  Eouen,  1  day.  Paris 
and  subui'bs,  5  days.  Paris  back  to  London  and  on 
to  Edinburgh,  by  York,  with  lay  over  of  one  train 
,  there,  2  days.  Edinburgh  and  siiburbs,  1^  days. 
Glasgow  and  going  there,  1|  days.  From  Glasgow 
through  Perthshire  Highlands  to   Stu-ling,  1   day. 


18  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

Stirling  to  Burns  country  of  AyrsMre,  and  stop  there, 

1  day.  To  Liverpool  and  retiim-ship,  |  day.  Total, 
27|  days — four  weeks ;  some  abridgement  of  time 
in  London  or  Paris,  or  the  dropping  off  of  some 
minor  excursions  being  necessaiy,  if  the  return  home 
within  six  weeks  is  peremptory-,  while  -o-ithin  the 
seven  all  can  be  accomphshed  without  difficulty  or 
unpleasant  hurry. 

(Parenthetically,  EngUsh  rural  scenery,  among  the 
most  beautiful  on  the  globe,  is  also  the  least  varied, 
so  that  one  excursion  through  it  affords,  with  rare 
exceptions,  a  type  of  all,  and  neither  time  or  money 
need  be  expended  in  dull  repetitions.  To  some 
extent,  the  same  remarks  will  apply  to  old  churches 
and  old  buildings,  when  there  is  no  historical  interest 
involved :  after  seeing  the  most  magnificent  or  the 
most  noted,  the  remainder  are,  to  a  man  without  full 
leisure,  rather  duU  than  the  reverse. ) 

For  the  ten  weeks'  trip,  take  same  figures,  28  days 
ashore,  and  add  to  them  as  foUows  :  From  Liverj)ool 
to  the  Cumberland  Lakes  and  return,  with  time  there, 

2  days.  Liverpool  to  Birmingham  and  through  the 
Shakspeare  neighborhood  of  Warwickshii-e,  taking 
the  London  Hue  at  Rugby,  3  days.  Paris  to  Geneva, 
Berne,  Interlaken,  Strasbourg  and  Baden-Baden,  and 
back  to  Paris,  12  days.  Additional  time  at  London 
and  Paris,  each  2  days,  4  days.  Total  on  shore,  49 
days,  or  seven  weeks. 

For  the  thi'ee  months'  trip  (13  to  14  weeks),  a 
different  arrangement  of  time  is  advisable,  as  follows  : 
Cork,  1  day.  To  and  at  Killarney,  3  days.  To 
Dublin  and  there,  2  days.     Dubhn  to  the  Giant's 


TIME  OF  TRIPS.  19 

Causeway  and  across  to  Belfast,  4  days.  Belfast  to 
Greenock  and  Glasgow,  1  day.  Glasgow,  1  day. 
From  Glasgow,  through  the  Highlands  and  by  Stir- 
ling to  Edinburgh,  3  days.  Edinburgh,  2  days. 
Edinburgh  to  Ayrshire  and  stop  there,  1|  days.  To 
the  Cumberland  Lakes,  \  day.  At  Cumberland 
Lakes,  2  days.  To  Liverpool,  \  day.  At  Liverpool, 
Chester,  &c.,  2  days.  To  Birmingham,  Coventry, 
Stratford-on-Avon,  Warwick,  &c.,  3  days.  To  Lon- 
don, 1  day.  At  London,  6  days.  Brighton  and 
Margate,  2  days.  To  Paris,  by  Eouen,  1\  days. 
Paris,  6  days.  Paris  to  Geneva  (with  excursion  to 
Chamouni),  Berne,  Interlaken,  Lucerne  (the  Rhigi), 
Bale,  Strasbourg  and  Baden-Baden,  14  days.  Baden- 
Baden,  down  the  Rhine,  and  across  Germany,  Hol- 
land and  Belgium,  returning  to  England  at  most 
convenient  point,  8  daj^s.  To  LiveiiDool,  1  day. 
Total,  65|  days — nine  weeks  and  a  fi^action. 

For  the  yet-more-extended  trip  of  four  months,  all 
the  last  preceding  figures  may  be  used,  with  the 
option  of  employing  the  remaining  25  to  30  days  in 
either  of  the  following  modes  : 

Cross  the  Alps  into  Italy,  by  either  the  St.  Gothard, 
St.  Bernard  or  Mt.  Cenis  passes,  see  Lakes  Como, 
Garda,  Maggiore,  etc.,  and  so  many  of  the  cities  of 
Turin,  Milan,  Florence,  Rome,  Naples,  Venice,  etc., 
as  may  be  attainable  within  the  remaining  limit  of 
time  and  expense  (the  30  days  and  about  $200  gold), 
recrossing  the  Alps  to  Switzerland  by  one  of  the 
other  passes,  and  thence  pursuing  the  route  last- 
named,  through  the  remainder  of  Switzerland,  Ger- 
many, etc. ;  or — 


20  SHORT-TRIP  GLIDE. 

Abandoning;  for  this  tour,  Germany  and  all  beyond 
that  point  of  Switzerland  reached  at  the  time  of 
crossing  the  Alps,  expend  the  whole  remaining,  say 
40  days  and  $275  to  §300  gold,  in  visiting  more  of 
the  ItaHan  cities,  the  Bay  of  Naples,  Vesuvius,  etc., 
and  "  doing  "  Kome  more  thoroughly,  taking  steamer 
on  the  Mediterranean  at  some  one  of  the  Italian 
ports  for  Marseilles,  catching  a  glimpse  of  Spain  and 
seeing  the  southwest  of  France,  crossing  nearly  the 
whole  length  of  that  empire  in  running  back  to  Paris 
and  a  Channel  port  for  the  return  to  England  ;  or — 

Pursuing  generally  the  coiu'se  last  marked  out, 
abandon,  again,  something  of  the  Italian  opportunity, 
and  substitute  one  or  two  of  the  towns  and  a  por- 
tion of  the  Mediterranean  coast  of  Spain,  still  making 
Marseilles  the  objective  point,  and  crossing  France 
to  Paris  and  the  Channel,  as  before. 

There  are,  of  course,  many  other  options,  as  well 
as  many  other  comparatively-brief  routes,  than  those 
which  have  now  been  hurriedly  discussed — especially 
one  which  should  branch  off  into  Eastern  Germany 
and  Austria,  leaving  out  Italy  and  the  south  alto- 
gether ;  but  it  is  beheved  that  these  include  the 
probable  preferences  of  most  Americans,  and  it  is 
beyond  question  that  this  understanding  and  allot- 
ment of  time  and  expense  will  be  found,  m  the  main, 
correct,  practical  and  worthy  of  study. 

And  now  one  or  two  particulars,  with  reference  to 
the  employment  of  time,  in  response  to  cei-tain  ques- 
tions almost  siu'e  to  be  asked  by  any  foreigner  read- 
ing the  preceding,  and  quite  likely  to  be  put  even  by 
Americans  : 


TIME  OF  TRIPS.  21 

"  Such  brief  spaces  have  been  named  for  some  of  the 
most  important  and  interesting  places  on  the  globe  :  how 
is  it  possible,  for  instance,  to  see  anything  of  either  Lon- 
don or  Paris  in  the  six  to  eight  days  allotted  to  each  ?" 

To  which  the  answer  is  : 

^  First :  there  are  in  both  cities  certain  prominent 
objects,  which  all  need  to  visit,  and  beyond  which 
only  persons  of  leisure  care  to  go.  In  and  about 
London,  the  Tower  ;  Westminster  Abbey  ;  St.  Paul's  ; 
the  Houses  of  Parliament ;  Windsor  Castle  and  Park  ; 
Buckingham  and  the  other  royal  palaces  ;  the  British 
and  South  Kensington  Museums  ;  the  Crystal  Palace  ; 
Hyde  and  the  other  London  parks  ;  Kichmond  Hill ; 
Kew  Gardens,  etc.,  the  most  interesting  objects  being 
all  really  named.  Li  and  about  Paris,  the  Boule- 
vards ;  the  Seine,  its  quays  and  bridges  ;  the  Louvre  ; 
the  Tuileries  ;  Notre  Dame,  the  Madeleine  and  other 
great  churches ;  the  Tuileries  Gardens,  Place  de  la 
Concorde,  and  Champs  Elysees  ;  the  Arc  d'Etoile  and 
other  great  monuments  ;  the  Bois  de  Boulogne  ;  the 
Bourse  ;  Pere  la  Chaise  ;  Versailles  and  Sevres  ;  the 
Hotel  des  Invalides  ;  the  Cathedral  Church  of  St. 
Denis  ;  some  of  the  concert-gardens,  cafes,  etc.,  the 
leading  objects  being  again  named. 

Now,  to  get  to  one-half  of  these,  on  foot  or  with 
any  arrangement  existing  in  an  American  city,  would 
be  simply  impossible,  at  any  moderate  outlay.  But 
both  London  and  Paris  have  cab  systems  worthy  the 
Admiration  of  the  world,  and  it  is  in  the  use  of  them 
that  sight-seeing  becomes  so  easy,  cheap  and  rapid. 

Take  London,  then,  the  cabs  understood,  and 
another  fact  also  understood — that  not  all  the  time 


22  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

desirable  is  to  be  used,  but  enough  for  very  intelligent 
views.  For  Westminster  Abbey,  St.  Paul's  and  the 
Houses  of  Parliament,  1\  days.  For  tlie  Tower,  \ 
day.  Crystal  Palace,  1  day.  Windsor  Castle  and 
Park,  I  day.  Richmond,  Kew,  Hampton  Court,  etc., 
1  day.  British  Museum  and  Guildhall  (with  the 
Temple),  1  day.  Through  London  Parks  and  streets, 
with  the  Eoyal  Palaces  (outside  views),  the  Horse- 
Guards,  Mansion  HoiTse,  Bank  of  England,  Monu- 
ments, &c.,  1  to  2 1  days.  Total,  6|  to  8  days,  the 
theatres  being  visited  in  the  intei-vening  nights  by 
those  who  choose,  and  a  much  better  general  idea  of 
London  being  thus  acquu'ed  by  an  active  and  intelli- 
gent traveler,  than  many  obtain  in  months  of  resi- 
dence. 

Take  Paris  (not  in  an  "Exposition"  year).  For 
Versailles  and  Sevres,  with  glimpse  of  St.  Cloud  and 
ride  through  the  whole  length  of  the  Bois  de  Bou- 
logne, 1  day.  For  Pere  la  Chaise  (cemetery),  |  day. 
For  St.  Denis,  \  day.  For  the  great  churches,  the 
Pantheon,  Notre  Dame,  St.  Roch,  the  Madeleine,  St. 
Eustache,  St.  Etienne  du  Mont,  &c.,  1  day.  For  the 
Tuileries  Gardens,  Champs  Elysees,  along  the  Seine, 
the  bridges,  &c.,  1  day.  For  inside  the  Louvre,  with 
glimpses  of  that  and  the  other  palaces,  outside,  1  day. 
For  the  Hotel  des  Invalides,  the  Champ  de  Mars,  &:c., 
\  day.  For  the  Hotel  de  Ville,  Place  de  Greve, 
Palais  Eoyal,  Hotel  Cluny,  etc. — any  or  all  of  them — 
1  to  3  days,  at  will.  Total,  6|  to  8  days.  The  Bou- 
levards will  necessarily  be  seen  in  passing  along  them 
on  special  visits  ;  and  so  of  the  great  monuments, 
the  Ai-c  d'Etoile,  Arc  du  Carrousel,  Colonne  de  Yen- 


TIME  OF  TRIPS.  23 

dome,  Colonne  de  Juillet,  &c.  ;  while  tlie  theatres 
and  the  concert  gardens  (Mabille,  &c.,)  naturally  fill 
the  evenings. 

Such  a  distribution  of  time  would  inevitably  aj)pal 
the  slow  and  steady  Enghshman ;  but  not  so  with 
the  vivacious,  quick-moving  and  quick-seeing  Ameri- 
can ;  and  nothing  more  than  these  two  extreme 
instances  can  be  necessary,  it  is  behaved,  to  demon- 
strate that  the  "  short-trip  "  plan  and  division  of  time 
are  not  only  practicable  but  reasonable,  however 
much  even  the  most  hurried  might  prefer  to  have 
unlimited  time  and  money  at  command  1 


III. 


STEAMSHIP  LINES  TO  EUROPE,  "WITH  A  IflNT  FOR 
'"ROUND  THE  WORLD." 

Most  persons,  not  taking  especial  thought  on  the 
subject,  fail  to  recognize  the  immense  proportions  to 
which  the  steam  navy,  carrj'ing  passengers  between 
the  port  of  New  York  and  four  poi-ts  of  the  Old 
World  (Liverpool,  Glasgow,  Havre  and  Bremen)  has 
reached ;  and  partially  to  afford  a  glance  at  its  pro- 
portions, as  also  to  remind  tourists  what  facilities 
for  choice  are  placed  at  their  disposal,  a  brief  glance 
is  here  taken  at  the  most  reliable  lines,  their  ships, 
performances,  and  the  advantages  they  offer. 

LINES  TO   QUEENSTOWN   AND   LIVERPOOL. 

Cunard  Line.    {British  and  North  American  Royal 
Mail  Steamship  Company.) 

This  line,  which  may  be  said  to  stand  among  the 
first  of  its  class  in  any  service  in  the  world,  and 
which  makes  the  proud  boast  that  it  has  never  lost  a 
passenger  by  any  accident  since  the  day  of  its  estab- 
lishment, besides  having  carried  the  mails  with  a 
speed  and  regulai'ity  almost  wonderful  as  the  result 
•of  human  skill  and  forethought — this  hne  has  now 
employed,  in  the  sen-ice  between  New  Yoi*k  and 
Liverpool,  no  less  than  twenty  ships  —  seven  mail 
steamers,  carrying  only  first-class  passengers  —  the 


STEAMSHIPS  TO  EUROPE,  ETC.  25 

Scotia  and  Persia  (paddle- wheelers),  the  Russia, 
Cuba,  Java,  China  and  Australasian,  screws ;  be- 
sides the  Siberia,  Malta,  Hecla,  Palmyra,  Tarifa, 
Marathon,  Kedar,  Olympus,  Tripoli,  Alejopo,  Mo- 
rocco and  Sidon,  extra  steamers,  carrying  first  and 
third  class.  The  average  time  of  the  runs  of  the 
mail  steamers  from  Queenstown  to  New  York,  dur- 
ing 1867,  was  lOd.  5h.  40m.;  from  New  York  to 
Liverpool,  including  detentions  at  Queenstown,  lOd. 
5h.  11m.  The  two  most  rapid  runs  of  the  year  were 
those  of  the  Scotia  to  Queenstown  in  8d.  9h.  26m., 
and  of  the  Russia  to  New  York  in  8d.  lOh.  34m.  The 
Commodore  of  this  line  is  the  veteran  Captain  Jud- 
kins,  of  the  Scotia  ;  and  its  notabilities  are  good  fare, 
fine  accommodations,  sharp  discipline,  and  reliability 
as  to  performance. 

Inman  Line.     {Z/iverpool,  New  York  and  Philadel- 
phia Steamship  Company^ 

This  line  comes  second  in  order  of  establishment, 
and  only  second  in  the  number  of  shij^s  employed. 
It  is  claimed  to  have  done  more  to  "  bridge  the 
Atlantic,"  by  good  accommodations  at  moderate 
prices,  than  any  other  line  on  the  ocean  ;  and  it  has 
lately  so  shown  the  justice  of  that  demand  on  the 
British  Government,  as  to  have  been  accorded  a  di- 
vision of  the  mail  service,  besides  that  exclusively 
to  Halifax.  It  also  deserves  the  credit  of  having 
seen  and  depended  upon  the  merit  of  the  sci-ew-prin- 
ciple,  at  an  earlier  day  than  any  other ;  and  its  voy- 
ages have  been  remarkably  successful  and  safe.  Its 
fleet  of  steamers  now  comprise  the  splendid  mail- 


26  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

boats  (City  of)  Paris,  Antwerp,  London,  Boston  and 
Baltimore  (also  the  Brooklyn  nearly  finished),  with 
the  New  York,  Washington,  Manchester,  Limerick, 
Cork,  Kangaroo,  and  several  others,  on  the  Halifax 
branch,  running  to  Liverpool  as  extra  steamers,  or 
held  in  reserve.  The  Commodore  is  Captain  James 
Kennedy,  of  the  City  of  Paris,  Avhose  average  of 
passages,  from  April  to  August,  1867,  between  New 
York  and  Queenstown,  was  9d.  5h.  3ra.,  while  the 
Antwerp,  London,  Boston  and  Baltimore  followed 
close,  and  the  City  of  Paris  made  the  extraordinary 
run,  in  November,  of  8d.  4h.  37m.,  the  shortest  west- 
ward on  record.  Officers  courteous — fare  good — 
ships  and  line  excellent. 

National  Line.     {National  Steam  Navigation  Com- 
pany.) 

This  line  comes  third  in  order  of  establishment, 
and  has  risen  to  assured  and  worthy  success  on  the 
specialties  of  large  and  roomy  ships,  good  fare,  good 
accommodations  at  exceedingly  low  prices,  and  gen- 
eral courtesy.  It  has  now  in  employment  the  fine 
steamers  France,  England,  Denmark,  Helvetia,  Penn- 
sylvania, Erin,  Virginia,  and  others,  receiving  a  con- 
stantly increasing  share  of  the  large  transit  between 
the  two  countries,  and  entitled  to  the  credit  of  hav- 
ing gone  a  step  beyond  the  Inman  line  in  demonstra- 
ting the  practicability  of  cheap  carriage  without  the 
sacrifice  of  either  comfort  or  safety.  The  Commo- 
dore of  this  line  is  Captain  Grace,  of  the  France,  the 
latest-built  of  the  fleet,  and  which  vessel  has  already 
demonstrated  her  capacity  to  compete  with  the  best 


STEAMSHIPS  TO  EUROPE,  ETC.  27 

of  the  raail-steamers,  -while  the  sea-going  qualities 
of  all  the  vessels  have  been  proved  to  admiration. 
All  the  saloons  on  deck  form  a  pleasing  specialty  of 
this  line,  as  well  as  abundance  of  room  in  state-i'ooms 
and  saloons. 

Williams  and  Guion  Line.     {Z/iverpool  and  Great 
Western  Steam  Company.) 

This  is  the  youngest  of  the  great  lines  to  Liver- 
pool, but  is  rapidly  becoming  one  of  the  most  popu- 
lar. Its  specialties  are  ships  of  immense  size,  splen- 
did model  and  great  strength,  built  on  the  Tyne 
(instead  of  on  the  Clyde,  as  most  of  the  other  lines), 
adopting  the  brig-rig  entirely,  offering  the  great- 
est possible  amount  of  room  per  passenger,  with 
state-rooms  and  saloons  all  on  deck  (as  half-an-hour's 
inspection  of  the  so-far  latest-finished,  the  magnifi- 
cent Colorado,  will  abundantly  show),  and  supply- 
ing, like  the  National,  excellent  transit  at  very  low 
rates.  The  ships  now  in  service  are  the  Colorado, 
Nebraska,  Manhattan  and  Minnesota,  all  of  about 
3,000  tons,  while  the  Nevada  and  Idaho  are  being 
rapidly  finished  and  will  have  place  on  the  line  dar- 
ing the  summer.  The  Commodore  is  Captain  Cut- 
ting, of  the  Colorado,  who  only  heads  his  brother 
captains  and  the  other  officers  of  the  line  in  "  taking 
care  of  his  passengers,"' and  showing  the  true  cour- 
tesy of  sea-going. 


28  SEORT-TEIP  GUIDE. 

LIXE   TO   LONDOKDEEBY   AND   GLASGOW. 

Anchor  Line.     {Henderson  Brothers^  Glasgow.) 

Frpm  comparatively  small  beginnings  this  line  has 
been  for  years  increasing  in  the  number  and  size  of 
its  ships,  in  efficiency  of  management,  arrangements 
tor  the  comfoi-t  and  pleasure  of  passengers,  and  con- 
sequently in  popularity.  The  A^essels  now  employed 
are  the  splendid  new  vessels,  the  Europa,  Columbia 
and  Hibemia,  in  all  of  which  the  science  of  pleasing 
passengers  seems  to  be  carried  to  full  perfection,  even 
to  the  extent  of  supplying  them  with  pianos, — and 
the  Caledonia,  Iowa,  Britannia,  United  Kingdom  and 
Cambria,  with  all  the  other  comforts,  and  soon  to 
have  that  exceptional  one.  The  courtesy  of  the  offi- 
cers of  this  line  is  proverbial ;  and  as  the  ships  make 
the  "  North  About,"  avoiding  the  British  Channel, 
securing  the  most  splendid  of  approaches  to  land, 
and  booking  passengers  to  Liverpool  at  the  same 
price  as  to  Glasgow,  it  is  not  strange  that  hundreds 
of  those  w^ho  wish  to  include  Scotland  in  their  tours 
are  bending  in  that  direction.  It  should  be  noted, 
in  addition,  that  the  same  company  run  steamers 
from  Glasgow  to  Lisbon,  Gibraltar,  Malta,  the  Ital- 
ian ports  and  Alexandria,  making  a  convenient  con- 
nection in  that  direction. 

li>t:  to  beest  axd  havee. 

French  Line.     {Gompagnie    Generale    Transatlan- 
tique.) 
The  withdrawal  of  the  American  line  to  Brest 
and  Havre  (the  Fulton,  Arago,  etc.),  while  painfully 


STEAMSHIPS  TO  EUROPE,  ETC.  29 

impressing  Americans,  still  leaves  the  consciousness 
that  what  remains  is  the  very  best.  No  line,  in  the 
same  length  of  time,  ever  made  such  a  reputation  as 
the  ships  of  the  General  Transatlantic  Company,  for 
safety,  speed  and  elegance,  and  it  may  be  said  that 
none  carries  so  many  first-class  passengers  per  ship. 
The  vessels  now  employed  are  the  Pereire,  Ville  de 
Paris,  St.  Laurent,  Europe,  Napoleon  III.,  Lafayette, 
"Washington  and  Europe.  The  ships  seem  to  be  built 
and  run  "  regardless  of  expense  "  and  with  French 
fare  and  courtesy.  The  Pereire,  during  1867,  made 
five  passages  between  New  York  and  Brest,  averag- 
ing 8d.  20h.,  and  the  Ville  de  Paris  and  St.  Laurent 
averaging  9d.  llh. — among  the  best  performances 
known  to  ocean  service ;  and  there  is  no  doubt  that 
'68  will  see  the  equal  of  '67,  in  speed,  comfort  and 
popularity. 

LINE   TO    SOUTHAMPTON    AND    BREMEN. 

Sremen  Line.     {North  German  Lloyd.) 

This  line,  always  the  most  popular  of  those  be- 
tween Germany  and  America,  is  making  rapid  strides 
towards  engrossing  the  whole  transit — through  the 
number,  speed  and  excellence  of  their  ships,  and  their 
general  management.  The  vessels  now  emj)loyed 
are  the  large  and  powerful  America,  New  York, 
Hermann,  Hansa,  Bremen,  Deutschland,  Union  and 
Weser ;  while  no  less  than  three  others,  the  Khein, 
Main  and  Donau,  are  nearly  completed.  They  have 
also  a  line,  just  established  but  promising  to  be  -very 
popular,  between  Bremen  and  Baltimore.  With  a 
brief  average,  there  have  been  some  remarkably  short 


30  SHOBT-TEIP  GUIDE. 

passages  during  the  year — as  that  of  the  Union, 
eastward,  in  9d.  lOh.,  and  the  Weser,  westward,  in 
9d.  3h.  For  passengers  desiring  to  go  direct  to 
Southampton  and  London,  they  offer  the  very  first 
attractions,  combined  with  fine  fare  and  most  courte- 
ous treatment ;  and  their  grooving  popularity  is  no 
matter  of  -wonder. 

FOB    CAUFOENIA,    CHI2fA,    IXDIA,  AKD    " 'kOUXD   THE 
WORLD." 

A  few  hints  have  heen  promised,  for  that  "  'round 
the  world  "  which  used  to  be  a  wonder,  will  one  day 
be  a  common  thing  to  do,  and  even  now  is  entirely 
and  easily  practicable  ;  and  these  hints  are  offered  for 
the  consideration  of  tourists  who  may  be  induced  to 
'•  broaden  their  views  "  when  they  are  reminded  how 
much  of  the  world  they  may  manage  to  see  in  a 
brief  space,*  if  they  will  but  set  about  it. 

It  is  known  to  perhaps  a  majority  of  persons, 
that  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Company  run  a  noble 
fleet  of  first-class  steamers  on  the  Atlantic  end  of 
their  line  (the  Arizona,  Henry  Chauncey,  Ocean 
Queen,  Northern  Light,  Ariel  and  Alaska),  to  Aspin- 
wall,  their  passengers  crossing  by  the  Panama  Rail- 
way to  Panama ;  and  that  from  Panama  a  second 
fleet  (the  Colorado,  Constitution,  Golden  City,  Sa- 
cramento, Golden  Age,  St.  Louis  and  Montana) 
carry  them  up  the  western  coast  and  land  them, 
generally  with  the  very  best  opinion  of  sea-going 
and  the  company  supplying  the  transit,  at  San 
Francisco,  in  about  22  days.  And  a  proportion  of 
the  public,  at  least,  are  aware  of  the  great  enterprise 


STEAMSHIPS  TO  EUROPE,  ETC.  31 

recently  inaugurated — that  "with  those  steamers,  at 
San  Francisco,  connect  yet  another  fleet,  scarcely 
less  in  number  (the  New  York,  Costa  Rica,  America, 
Celestial  Empire,  Great  Republic  and  Japan),  land- 
ing passengers  at  Yokohama,  Japan,  in  about  26 
days  from  San  Francisco,  or  48  from  New  York, — 
and  at  Hong  Kong,  China,  in  about  32,  or  54  from 
New  York. 

So  much  as  this  is  pretty  generally  i;nderstood  ; 
but  it  is  an  interesting  question  hoAV  many  persons 
of  means  and  the  desire  to  travel,  remember  the 
connections  with  this  great  line  and  the  European 
steamers  already  named,  that  may  so  easily  be  made, 
and  that  coveted  "  'round  the  Avorld  "  accomplished 
within  four  to  five  months,  or  even  in  a  less  period  if 
connections  happen  to  be  hit  throughout !  Say  from 
New  York,  by  San  Francisco  to  Hong  Kong,  as  al- 
ready noted.  From  Hong  Kong  by  the  British 
Peninsular  and  Oriental  Company's  steamers,  to 
Point  de  Galle,  Ceylon  (where  there  is  also  an  Aus- 
tralian connection  made,  for  those  who  desire  it). 
Point  de  Galle  to  Bombay,  with  an  opportunity  for  a 
brief  glance  at  British  East  India,  as  there  has  be- 
fore been  at  Japan  and  China.  Then  by  tlie  P.  & 
O.  steamer  again,  to  and  up  the  Red  Sea,  to  Suez, 
with  railway  transit  across  Egypt  to  Cairo  and 
Alexandria.  Thence  by  the  connecting  P.  &  O. 
steamers  from  Alexandria  to  Marseilles  (by  Malta) ; 
across  France  to  the  Channel,  and  homeward  to  New 
York  from  Havre,  Liverpool,  Southampton  or  Glas- 
gow, by  some  one  of  the  European  lines  already 
named. 


32  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

The  contemplation  is  almost  enough  to  take  away 
the  breath ;  but  nothing  in  travel  has  ever  equalled 
that  or  the  splendid  reality;  and  how  long  before, 
without  waiting  for  the  Pacific  Railway  (which  the 
Union  Pacific  people  are  hurrying  through  so  rapid- 
ly)— how  long  before  the  hint  is  taken  and  acted 
ujion  by  hundreds  who  can  well  alFord  the  time  (the 
four  months)  and  the  money  (not  over  ($900  to 
61,000  gold),  and  who  waste  both  in  summer  daw- 
dling at  home  ?  For  it  should  be  remembered  that 
the  route  may  be  precisely  reversed,  by  those  who 
prefer  first  seeing  Euroj^e — and  that  while  life  is 
short,  health  transitory,  and  opportunities  often  pass 
away  unexpectedly,  no  such  chance  for  "rounding 
the  circle  of  the  globe,"  with  little  bodily  fatigue,  al- 
most no  danger,  and  the  retention  of  luxury  through- 
out, has  ever  before  entered  into  the  calculation  of 
man. 


IV. 

PREPARATIONS  FOR  "  GOING  OVER." 

There  may  need  to  be  another  reminder  that  the 
following  paper,  like  some  of  the  others  to  come  af- 
ter it,  is  especially  intended  for  those  who  have  never 
before  crossed  the  Atlantic,  and  that,  consequently, 
some  of  the  advice  tendered  in  it  may  seem  very  "  A. 
B.  C-ish"  to  those  who  have  already  taken  their  degree, 
however  low  a  one,  in  the  academy  of  travelling  ex- 
perience. To  this  the  suggestion  may  properly  be 
added,  that  even  some  of  those  who  have  taken  that 
degree  may  find  themselves  none  the  worse  for  read- 
ing over  these  hints,  even  if  they  do  so  to  dissent 
from  them.  An  apology  may  need  to  be  made,  too, 
for  the  direct  and  conversational  style  adopted  in 
this  and  some  other  papers  ;  the  aim  of  the  author  is, 
in  this  regard,  to  come  as  near  as  possible  to  the 
words  and  manner  that  would  be  used  in  a  personal 
conversation,  with  one  of  the  parties  doing  much 
more  than  half  of  the  talking. 

One  word  as  to  the  mode  in  which  whatever  of 
"  wisdom"  may  be  here  contained — has  been  acquired. 
Or  let  the  words  be  two,  and  embody  them,  after  the 
mode  of  a  late  lamented  dignitary,  in  a  "Httle  story." 
Once  upon  a  time,  when  the  Shrewsbury  river,  in  New 
Jersey,  was  more  of  a  throughfare  for  passenger- 
steamboats  than  it  is  to-day,  a   "hard  case"   of  a 


34  SHORT-TBIP   GUIDE. 

river  boatman  made  application  to  the  head  of  one 
of  the  companies  for  the  command  of  a  new  boat 
just  launched  and  about  to  be  put  into  service. 
"Why,  good  heavens!"  exclaimed  the  o^vner,  throw- 
ing up  eyes  and  hands  in  astonishment,  "  what  rea- 
son can  you  possibly  give  for  thinking  that  I  would 
trust  you  with  a  boat?  Every  one  who  knows  you 
knows  that  you  have  been  ashore  on  every  shoal  and 
mud-bank  in  the  river,  even  when  piloting  for 
others."  "  Precisely  the  reason  why  I  am  the  man  to 
take  command  of  the  new  boat !"  replied  the  incor- 
rigible. "I  have  been  ashore,  I  believe,  on  every 
shoal  and  mud-bank  in  the  river ;  consequence,  I 
know  where  they  all  are,  now,  and  you  see  I  can  keep 
clear  of  em."  The  appHcation  of  which  is,  that  the 
writer  has  "  been  ashore"  on  most  of  the  "  shoals  and 
mud-banks"  of  rashness,  ignorance  and  comparative 
poverty,  in  his  experiments  at  foreign  travel,  and 
"  knows  where  they  are,"  now !  And  if  there  are 
some  upon  which  he  has  not  been  ashore,  he  has  seen 
others  stranded  on  them  and  laid  up  the  experience 
for  himself  and  others. 

1st.  Decide  whether  you  can  afford  time  and  money 
to  go  at  all,  taking  into  consideration  the  before- 
urged  opportunities  for  economy.  Also,  decide 
whether,  in  going,  you  leave  too  much  of  anxiety, 
personal  or  pecuniary,  for  fair  enjojTnent ;  for  there 
is  an  old  adage  about  the  absentee  who  "  drags  with 
each  remove  a  lengthening  chain,''  and  there  are 
not  charms  enough,  even  in  the  natural  scenery  and 
artistic  glories  of  the  Old  World,  to  make  such  a  trip 
"pay"  when  the  heart  or  the  business-powers  must 


PREPABATIONS.  35 

be  left  at  Lome.     So  mucli  decide  J,  aud  iu  the  affirma- 
tive, then 

2nd.  Having  made  tip  yonr  mind,  stick  to  tlie  reso- 
lution. Arrange  your  time  of  going  and  make  every- 
thing work  to  accommodate  that,  not  leave  that  to 
accommodate  itself  to  everything.  Generally  in  this 
as  in  ever'ythiug  else  in  life,  too  long  anticipation  is 
not  the  healthiest  or  the  most  profitable,  and  a  voy- 
age not  canvassed  over  for  five  years  in  advance  is 
likely  to  yield  more  pleasure  than  one  submitted  to 
that  length  of  speculation .  Above  all  things,  never 
boast  that  you  are  going,  when  you  have  merely 
thought  of  going  and  made  no  definite  decision,  as 
Mends  may  remember  the  farce  of  "  Ladies  Beware !" 
and  Mrs.  Vavasour's  saying:  "  Lady  Ossulton  has  been 
talking  of  going  to  Italy  ever  since  I  can  remember  ; 
if  she  intends  to  go,  why  don't  she  go  f"  And  there 
is  an  instance  on  record  of  a  youni^  New  Yorker  of 
good  family,  who  went  to  Europe  under  the  influence 
of  as  much  personal  fear  as  he  might  have  felt  in  go- 
ing to  his  execution — simply  because,  while  trying  to 
"screw  his  courage  to  the  sticking-point,"  he  had 
boasted  of  his  intended  trijp  until  all  his  friends  began 
to  make  it,  and  him,  a  by-word,  and  the  lady  to  whom 
he  was  engaged  finally  declared  that  "if  he  didn't 
go  and  thus  prove  that  he  was  not  afraid  to  do  so, 
she  would  never  marry  him  until  she  was  grayer 
than  Methusaleh's  gi-andmother  !"  Kumor  said  that 
he  was  on  the  point  of  being  set  ashore  at  Sandy 
Hook,  or  taken  off  by  the  pilot-boat,  after  proceeding 
down  the  bay,  but  that  the  fear  of  ridicule  deterred 

him  and  he  made  a  voyage  of  continued  torture, 
4 


36  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

simply  because  he  bad  "  declared  bis  intentions"  too 
widely. 

3d.  Having  resolved  upon  time  of  going  and  prob- 
able duration  of  trip,  and  selected  the  line  of  steam- 
ers by  whicb  tbe  outward  voyage  is  to  be  made  ( a 
selection  which  may  be  a  httle  aided  by  the  perusal 
of  another  paper  in  this  connection),  do  not  permit 
the  paltry  folly  of  wishing  to  keep  a  certain  number 
of  dollars  for  a  few  days  longer  in  pocket,  to  prevent 
the  early  taking  of  a  passage.  The  best  state-rooms 
on  any  favorite  steamship  are  hkely  to  be  first  taKen 
up  ;  and  even  in  the  event  of  any  accident  occurring, 
rendering  an  alteration  of  plans  necessary,  there  is 
rarely  any  difficulty  in  disposing  of  a  well-located 
berth,  while  most  of  the  companies,  at  any  time  be- 
fore the  "  eleventh  hour,"  will  transfer  the  passenger 
from  one  steamer  to  a  later  one,  if  a  change  of  time 
is  aU  the  de\'iation  from  the  original  plan  rendered 
necessary. 

4th.  If  suddenly-occurring  events  happen  to  have 
changed  the  calculation  in  the  other  direction,  and 
the  plan  of  going  is  formed  almost  at  the  verj' 
moment  when  some  favorite  steamer  is  about  to  sail, 
never  heed  the  stories  so  likely  to  be  told,  that  "  the 
steamer  is  full  and  you  cannot  get  a  place !"  There 
is  nearly  always  room  for  "  one  passenger  more,"  as 
there  is  in  an  avenue-car,  though  without  the  dis- 
comfort ;  and  if  the  worst  comes  to  the  worst,  it  is  a 
very  rare  case  when  some  one  of  the  officers  of  the  sliij) 
cannot  be  found  ready  to  give  up  his  room  for  the 
run,  at  the  inducement  of  no-very-large  addition  to 
the  price  of  the  passage-ticket.   These  are  suggestions 


PREPARATIONS.  37 

for  extreme  cases,  however  :  as  before  said,  passage 
had  much  better  be  taken  early,  whenever  possible  ; 
though  Mr.  William  J.  Florence,  the  actor,  who  makes 
many  and  pleasant  voyages  across  the  Atlantic,  has 
the  reputation  of  never  engaging  a  berth  until  the 
day  of  saihng,  when  he  goes  quietly  on  board,  plumps 
down  his  big  trunk,  and  calmly  advises  the  officers  of 
the  ship  that  "he  is  going  over,  and  the  sooner  they 
arrange  to  find  him  a  comfortable  room,  the  less 
trouble  they  will  be  likely  to  have  !"  a  hint  always 
acted  upon  at  once. 

5th.  In  selecting  berths,  when  a  good  opportunity 
for  choice  remains,  always  aim  to  get  as  near  as  pos- 
sible to  the  midships  of  the  vessel — a  consideration 
of  not  much  consequence  to  old  voyagers  with  strong 
nerves,  but  of  great  importance  to  landsmen,  as  every 
foot  of  distance  from  the  waist  iiacreases  the  amount 
of  motion  in  a  heavy  sea;  and  not  only  is  the  danger 
of  sea-sickness  less  simidships,  but  the  chances  of 
having  sleep  broken  by  the  "  pitch"  of  a  "  head"  or 
"following"  sea  are  proportionably  decreased  when 
so  located.  The  same  principle  applies,  in  a  less  de- 
gree, to  the  question  of  outside  or  inside  rooms  ( those 
inside  or  outside  of  the  gangways).  There  is  much 
less  effect  from  the  "roll,"  in  a  "beam"  sea,  for  those 
occupying  inner  berths;  but  there  is  always  much 
less  light  for  reading  or  any  other  purjDose,  and  the 
one  advantage  will  probably  balance  the  other,  except 
in  winter  passages,  when  the  inner  rooms  are  alto- 
gether preferable. 

6th.  No  guide-book,  probably,  ever  contained  a 
hint  of  the  advice  to  be  embodied  in  this  paragraph  ; 


38  SHORT- TRIP   GUIDE. 

and  yet  there  is  bo  word  of  advice,  of  the  whole, 
more  important.  Unless  that  miserable  being,  a 
"man  of  letters,"  and  thus  compelled  to  be  always 
reading — there  are  few  intending  voyagers,  male  or 
female,  who  will  not  be  the  better  for  a  little  "  read- 
ing lip"  as  to  the  countries  about  to  be  visited.  A 
fresh  glance  at  the  atlas,  to  see  how  they  lie  and  the 
relations  which  they  bear  to  each  other,  is  almost  in- 
dispensable, even  to  some  of  us  who  flatter  ourselves 
(before  we  thiak  the  second  time)  that  we  learned 
our  geography  and  have  kept  pretty  well  up  with  it 
ever  since.  And  there  is  not  one  in  fifty  who  would 
not  be  the  better  qualified  for  enjoyment  abroad,  by 
running  over  some  comprehensive  history  of  each  of 
the  j)rincipal  countries.  To  freshen  up  in  English, 
Scottish  and  Irish  history,  is  almost  indispensible  on 
the  eve  of  a  trip  merely  to  Great  Britain  ;  and  the 
same  may  be  said,  or  very  nearly,  of  French  history, 
especially  that  of  Napoleon  and  the  Revolution,  if 
the  Channel  is  to  be  crossed  for  anything  more  than 
the  merest  glance.  For  England,  too,  a  ninning 
over  of  Shakspeare  is  never  out  of  place,  whether 
for  London  or  Warwickshire;  while  some  knowledge 
of  Scott's  leading  novels,  the  "  Heart  of  Mid-Lothian," 
"Bride  of  Lamiiiermoor,"  "Rob  Roy,"  &c.,  of  the 
"Lady  of  the  Lake,''  and  of  Burns'  simpler  songs, 
makes  half  the  charm  of  a  run  over  the  Border  and 
through  the  Scottish  Highlands  ;  and  there  is  at 
least  policy  in  knowing  something  of  Lever's  novels 
("Charles  O'MaUey"  and  "  JackHinton")  of  Moore's 
poems  and  some  of  the  simpler  legends  and  stories  of 
the  peasantry,  before  setting  foot  in  L-eland.     This 


PREPARATIONS.  39 

adviee  would  not  seem  so  far-fetched  or  of  so  littlo 
consequence,  had  all  readers  heard  what  the  writer  has 
done :  people  of  wealth  and  supposed  intelligence,  on 
the  point  of  airing  their  money  and  position  by  Eu- 
ropean tours,  and  asking  friends,  covertly,  on  the 
very  verge  of  departure,  to  "  tell  them  some  of  the 
most  important  things  that  had  happened  in  England, 
France  and  a  few  of  them  countries" — or  buttonho- 
ling chance-met  acquaintances,  in  the  stable  yard  of 
the  Eed  Horse,  at  Stratford-on-Avon,  to  ask  "  who 
that  Shakspeare  was,  that  the  people  made  so  much 
fuss  about? — if  he  fit,  or  writ,  which  was  if?" 

7th.  Avoid  the  nonsense  which  may  be  go  easily 
put  into  the  mind,  of  trying  to  learn  any  of  the  lan- 
guages of  the  non-English-speaking  countries  to  be 
visited,  in  the  brief  space  intervening  between  arrang- 
ment  and  departure.  Those  who  have  some  acquaint- 
ance with  French,  German  or  Italian,  as  the  case  may 
be,  will  be  all  the  better  and  none  the  worse  for 
"  rubbing  up"  as  much  as  possible,  through  reading, 
translation  or  conversation  ;  but  for  those  who  know 
nothing  of  the  languages,  to  attempt  mastering  them, 
is  simply  nonsense.  There  are  English-speaking  peo- 
ple, now,  almost  everywhere  on  the  Continent — Eng- 
lish servants,  guides,  couriers,  etc.,  and  often  English- 
speaking  landlords ;  and  for  those  not  linguists,  the 
best  plan  is  to  arrange  for  joining  company  with  those 
who  do  speak  the  languages  of  the  countries  about  to 
be  visited,  or  to  depend  upon  chance-met  speaking  of 
Enghsh.  There  are  a  certain  set  of  enquiries  and  an- 
swers, however,  connected  with  buying  tickets,  taking 
trains,  hiring  cabs,  finding  lodgings,  making  small 


40  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

purchases,  discovering  directions,  etc ,  which  may  be 
committed  to  memory  without  much  trouble  and 
Avithout  the  miserable  affectation  of  supposing  that 
this  is  "learning  a  language;"  and  for  the  benefit  of 
those  who  prepare  themselves  to  that  extent,  a  few 
of  these  phrases  are  set  down,  at  the  close  of  the 
present  volume,  with  their  meanings  in  Enghsh, 
and  the  instances  in  which  they  are  likely  to  be  found 
useful. 

8th.  Another  "rubbing  up"  is  advisable  though 
not  absolutely  indispensible.  Thousands  of  questions 
about  America,  its  physical  appearance,  wealth,  work- 
ing of  government,  industrial  aspects,  etc.,  are  con- 
stantly asked  of  Americans  on  their  travels,  supposed 
to  be  of  the  average  intelligence,  by  foreigners  whom 
they  chance  to  meet;  and  it  is  decidedly  pleasant  as 
well  as  proper,  not  to  be  three  or  four  thousand 
mUes  from  home,  unable  to  answer  the  simplest  ques- 
tions with  reference  to  things  at  our  own  doors  at 
home.  The  more  Ave  know  about  our  own  land,  the 
more  intelligent  and  agi'eeable  travellers  we  shall 
make,  unavoidably;  and  in  this  connection, 

9th.  Throw  overboard  two  false  impressions,  to- 
gether, before  embarking  for  Europe.  Overboard 
with  the  idea,  at  once,  that  the  land  you  are  leaving 
is  better  than  all  others  in  every  regard,  so  that  no- 
thing can  be  learned  abroad;  and  with  it  give  the  go- 
by to  the  alternative  impression  that  we  have  nothing 
worth  asserting  and  even  boasting  about,  and  that 
what  you  are  to  learn  abroad  will  stand  in  place  of 
the  previous  experiences  and  prides  of  a  life.  Amer- 
ica has  many  things,  to-day  (and  the  last  pages  of 


PREPARATIONS.  41 

tho  present  volume  may  be  ovcrliauled  for  reminders 
of  some  of  them, )  nneqiialled  by  tlie  world  and  matters 
of  legitimate  pride  to  lier  citizens  ;  then  she  has  er- 
rors and  deficiencies  which  may  well  be  corrected  by 
observations  among  older  if  not  necessarily  wiser 
people.  Every  American,  going  abroad,  should  carry 
with  him  all  practical  knowledge  of  his  own  land, 
and  all  well-founded  pride  in  it  ;  and  at  the  same 
time  he  should  travel  with  eyes  and  ears  open  and 
power  to  divest  himself  of  ridiculous  national  vain- 
glory prejudically  shutting  away  all  beyond. 

And  now  to  a  few  minor  particulars,  belonging  to 
the  very  eve  of  starting,  and  still  important  enough 
to  deserve  place  and  number  : 

10th.  Start  with  a  confident  exjiectatioix  of  return- 
ing, and  3'et  leave  property-interests  disposed  of  as 
if  no  return  was  likely  to  be  made.  There  is  really 
less  danger,  in  a  given  number  of  days,  in  going  over- 
sea than  fi'om  Chicago  to  Boston,  or  New  Oi'leans  to 
New  York,  by  rail  ;  but  European  absences  are  gen- 
erally longer  than  those  on  the  American  Continent, 
except  the  latter  involve  California  or  the  very  far 
South-west,  or  North-west  ;  and  if  we  are  commonly 
neglectful,  there  is  no  reason  why  these  instances 
should  not  be  an  exception.  "  No  man  dies  the  sooner 
for  making  his  will,"  they  say  ;  and  certainly  no  man 
travels  less  comfortably  for  leaving  affairs  at  home  in 
such  a  shape,  that  if  he  does  not  return,  his  absence 
will  cause  the  least  possible  inconvenience  to  those 
left  behind.     And  in  this  connection,  again, 

11th.  There  is  nothing  wiser  for  the  departing 
"  family  man,"  whatever  the  status  of  those  depend- 


42  SHORT- TRIP   GUIDE. 

ent  upon  him,  than  an  investment  in  a  moderate  life- 
assurance,  Tvith  an  additional  assurance  against  acci- 
dent. Nothing  of  an  earthly  character  (the  reUgious 
questions  "noil  naturally  suggest  themselves)  adds 
more  comfort  in  a  storm  at  sea,  or  danger  iu  some 
distant  land,  than  the  reflection  that  there  would 
be  at  least  one  benefit  from  the  risk  terminating  un- 
favorably :  the  dear  ones  at  home  icould  be  pecuniarily 
the  gainers  by  it. 

12  th.  Arrange  baggage  compactly,  and  not  too  ex- 
tensively. For  each  person  (male — the  ladies  itvY/ make 
rules  for  themseh-es),  one  stout  leather  or  wood-and- 
leather  trunk  of  30  to  36  inches  by  16  to  20  inches, 
and  one  convenient  valise  for  carrying  in  the  hand, 
is  always  sufficient,  for  anything  less  than  carrying 
over  the  whole  personal  effects  Avith  a  view  to  resi- 
dence. The  tiamk  for  deposit  in  the  gi'eat  cities,  in 
the  event  of  expecting  to  return  along  the  same  hne — 
if  not,  unavoidably  to  be  carried  along.  The  valise 
for  short  excursions  from  those  great  centres,  having 
this  advantage — that  it  can  be  carried  in  the  railway- 
carriage  or  cab,  (en  voiture,  as  the  French  designate 
it),  whUe  the  trunk  must  be  looked  after,  with  trouble 
and  expense.  Both  trunk  and  valise  should  be  plain- 
ly marked,  with  name  and  residence — initials  not  al- 
ways enough  for  either  safety  or  convenience.  If  the 
trunk  is  small  enough,  for  the  sea-voyage,  to  find  place 
in  the  state-room,  all  the  better ;  if  not,  care  must 
be  taken  that  before  it  goes  into  the  hold  all  articles 
are  taken  out  from  it  that  will  be  needed  before  land- 
ing on  the  other  side.  The  vahse  will  always  find 
place  in  the  state-room,  of  course.     And  this  brings 


PREFAIIATIONS.  43 

I3tli.  The  important  question  of  clotliing,  in  -sYliicli 
the  liberty  will  be  taken  of  quoting  from  a  work  by 
the  same  writer  ("Over-Sea  ")  issued  last  year,  a  few 
bracketed  words  being  added  to  the  advice  there  em- 
bodied : 

"  My  point  of  view  is  for  the  male  sex,  but  the  fe- 
male will  find  it  easily  varied  to  their  requirements. 
For  crossing  the  North  Atlantic,  to  return  in  [two  or] 
three  months,  the  first  requirement  is  a  suit  of  thick 
clothes,  so  old  and  valueless  that  one  can  lounge 
upon  the  deck  in.  them,  -with  no  fear  of  damage. 
(Dandyism  is  at  a  discount,  at  sea — a  lesson  quickly 
and  surely  learned).  Clothing  thick,  because  sea  air 
is  nearly  always  damp,  and  generally  cold.  Then  as 
thick  an  overcoat  and  gloves  as  can  v.'cll  be  procured, 
the  use  of  which  will  become  patent,  either  among 
the  fogs  and  possible  icebergs  of  the  Banks  of  New- 
foundland, or  on  the  Irish  coast.  A  thick  blanket, 
or,  what  is  still  better,  a  rough  buffalo-robe,  to  make 
lounging  upon  deck  the  easier  and  warmer.  For 
even  midsummer  wear  in  England,  Ireland  and  Scot- 
land, a  neat  travelhng-suit  of  thick  cloth  [stout  Mel- 
ton or  cassimere,  the  best],  which  will  scarcely  ever 
be  found  too  warm  ;  while  in  all  these  a  hght  sum- 
mer overcoat  [water-proof  tweed,  best],  will  be  found 
a  convenience,  and  often  a  necessity.  For  southward 
of  the  British  Channel,  a  suit  of  dark  summer-cloths 
or  flannels,  useful  occasionally,  but  by  no  means  to 
be  depended  upon,  and  never  to  be  worn  without 
heavy  under-clothing.  Heavy  wool  under-clothing 
at  sea,  with  courage  enough  to  double  it  if  comfort 
60  requires.     A  dress  suit,  if  there  is  plenty  of  room 


44  SHORT- TRIP   GUIDE. 

in  the  tnink,  not  otherwise,  as  there  is  very  seldom 
occasion  for  it  on  a  tour  of  this  character  [and  for 
full-dress  occasions,  purchase  or  hire  is  always  avail- 
able in  the  large  cities  where  such  a  demand  is  likely 
to  arise].  Plenty  of  linen  and  white  goods,  to  avoid 
being  at  the  mercy  of  the  washer-women  at  times  of 
sudden  transit, — though  the  fact  may  well  be  remem- 
bered, that  all  the  latter  description  of  goods  can  be 
laid  in  much  cheaper  at  Liverpool,  London,  or  even 
at  Paris,  than  in  America  under  the  present  regime. 
*  *  A  low-crowned  tourist  hat,  of  felt ;  and  for  Eng- 
land, (first  of  indispensibles),  an  umbrella."  To  this 
list  add  a  good  opera-glass,  almost  indispensible, 
both  by  sea  and  on  land,  for  catching  views  rapidly 
and  correctly. 

14th.  Make  such  arrangements,  if  possible,  that  a 
little  longer  absence  than  that  contemplated,  will  not 
■work  serious  business  or  other  inconvenience,  as  the 
best  calculator  cannot  always  be  quite  sure  of  non- 
detention  through  some  influence  or  action  beyond 
himself. 

15th.  Arrange  (as  before  suggested)  to  take  a  lit- 
tle more  money  abroad  than  is  supposed  to  be  neces- 
sary for  either  time  or  distance  ;  but 

16th.  Carry  in  actual  money,  (English  gold,  by  far 
the  most  convenient,  excej^t  for  going  directly  to 
Erance — then  French  gold, )  only  so  much  as  wiU  pay 
expenses  on  ship-board  and  last  during  the  few  days 
that  may  happen  to  elapse  before  reaching  the  point 
at  which  the  first  draft  is  made  payable.  All  beyond 
this  should  be  taken  either  in  bills-of-exchange  on 
bankers  in  one  or  more  of  the  gi'eat  cities  to  be  vis- 


PREPARATIOXS.  45 

ited;  or  in  circular  letters-of-eredit  to  corresponding 
houses  in  those  cities.  Only  the  very  first  class  of 
banking  houses,  at  heme,  should  be  dealt  with,  in 
procuring  exchange  or  letters-of-credit,  if  the  painful 
possibihty  of  finding  oneself  abroad  without  funds,  is 
to  be  avoided  ;  and  all  information  as  to  details  can 
be  procured,  as  well  as  the  funds,  at  any  one  of  the 
houses  whose  announcements  are  to  be  found  at  the 
close  of  the  present  volume. 

17th.  Procure  passports,  by  making  api^lication 
to  an  authorized  Notary  or  Dispatch  Agent,  at 
least  a  week  or  ten  days  before  the  time  of  departure. 
A  separate  passport  is  necessary  for  every  adult  male, 
and  for  every  woman  travelling  femme  sole :  when 
husband,  wife  and  minor  children  are  travelling  to- 
gether, a  single  one  is  sufficient  for  all.  In  Great 
Britain  no  passports  are  necessary,  though,  in  the 
present  troubled  Fenian  days,  they  may  at  an}'  time 
be  found  convenient,  and  sometimes  indispensible  as 
means  of  identification  ;  in  France,  of  late,  they  are 
seldom  demanded,  though  the  law  requu'es  them  ; 
beyond  France,  it  is  never  safe  to  be  without  them, 
in  due  form  and  properly  vised  ;  and  even  in  France, 
if  not  demanded,  they  have  their  use  in  securing 
certain  privileges  and  furnishing  some  guarantee  of 
identity. 

18th.  Take  some  letters  of  introduction,  when  ten- 
dered, and  to  the  right  persons  ;  but  depend  very  lit- 
tle upon  them,  except  in  some  business  point  of  view. 
If  there  is  sufficient  influence  to  procure  letters  to  the 
American  Secretaries  of  Legation  at  London,  Paris, 
&c.,  they  may  often  be  found  valuable,  as  those  Sec- 


46  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

retaries  generally  do  the  wheel-horse  work  of  the  le- 
gations, and  may  pay  an  amount  of  attention  be- 
neath the  time  or  state  of  the  Ministers. 

19th.  Create  as  little  impression  as  possible,  on  the 
verge  of  departure,  of  feeling  that  some  event,  mov- 
ing half  the  world,  is  taking  place  in  your  first  leaving 
your  native  land.  A  sea-voyage,  now,  no  further  than 
Europe,  is  about  equivalent  to  a  trip  up  the  Sound  to 
Boston,  fifteen  years  ago, — and  not  much  more  than 
was  the  transit  across  Sandy  Hook  Bay  at  the  dis- 
tance back  of  thirty  or  fifty  years;  and  the  obser\ing 
world  is  generally  coming  to  regard  it  in  that  hght. 

20th  and  last.  If  possible,  go  on  board  before  the 
last  moment  of  sailing,  and  have  any  hea^y  baggage 
on  board  even  earlier.  Also,  if  possible,  make  any 
extended  tender  farewells  earher  and  elsewhere  than 
on  the  crowded  deck  of  a  steamer,  at  the  last  mo- 
ment, when  everybody  is  in  the  way  of  everj-body 
else,  when  the  officers  naturally  wish  to  throw  over- 
board all  the  whiners,  and  when  there  is  a  probabil- 
ity of  the  grief  of  departure  being  added  to  by  the 
worry  of  having  wife,  sister,  child  or  friend  tumbled 
into  the  dock  in  the  sudden  removal  of  the  gang- 
plank. 


V. 

WHAT  TO  DO  AND  AVOID,  ON  SHIPBOARD. 

The  advice  in  this  paper,  too,  ■will  be  set  down  di- 
dactically, and  much  of  it  will  be  considered  A  B  C-ish 
"by  those  who  have  once  or  oftener  crossed  the  Atlan- 
tic. In  the  meantime,  not  even  to  some  of  them  will 
the  maxims  be  foifnd  unprofitable,  if  attended  to — 
judging  by  the  very  large  number  of  habitual  travel- 
lers who  seem  to  happen  upon  the  very  conditions  of 
discomfort  and  imprudence,  as  if  seeking  them.  No 
attempt  will  be  made  to  arrange  the  items  in  groups 
or  any  regular  succession,  though  they  will  be  num- 
bered, for  convenience,  hke  those  in  the  last  paper. 

1st.  Perhaps  the  first  condition  of  comfort  in  a 
sea-voyage,  is  to  avoid  making  up  the  mind  as  to  any 
positive  time  at  which  the  voyage  must  be  conclud- 
ed. An  old  Dutch  farmer,  of  Long  Island,  who  some- 
times gathered  corn  alone  in  a  field  of  twenty  or 
thirty  acres,  being  enquired  of  as  to  how  he  escaped 
being  discouraged  at  the  prospect  of  finishing  his  la- 
bor, replied  that  "  he  would  be,  if  he  thought  of  it  ; 
but  he  simply  went  in,  each  day,  to  do  a  day's  work, 
and  in  that  way  the  field  got  finished,  eventually,  al- 
most before  he  knew  it !"  To  look  across  the  three 
thousand  miles  of  the  Atlantic,  and  think  over  the 
days  necessary  to  travel  it,  even  on  the  swiftest  ves- 
sel, is  rather  discouraging  than  the  reverse  ;  but  by 


48  SHORT- TRIP   GUIDE. 

simply  avoiding  any  definite  calculation,  and  consid- 
ering the  ship  and  her  officers  and  crew  as  doing 
theu-  "  day's  work,"  the  amount  of  impatience  may 
be  very  considerably  reduced.  Creeping  ahead  a  lit- 
tle every  day,  the  whole  voyage  vvdll  soon  be  accom- 
plished :  that  is  enough  to  know  and  enough  to  feeV 
no  matter  what  anxieties  may  be  at  the  end. 

2d.  Perhaps  the  next  desideratum  is  to  avoid  any 
considerable  anxiety  as  to  the  voyage  being  a  pros- 
perous one,  by  fii'st  remembeiing  that  more  than  an 
hundred  runs  are  made  without  a  single  accident, 
and  more  than  five  hundred  withotit  the  total  loss  of 
a  vessel, — and  then  falling  back  upon  that  pleasant 
recollection  that  you  have  not  the  affair  in  charge, 
any  way—  that  (Providence  over  all  and  always  to 
be  remembered,  of  course, )  the  officers  and  crew  of 
the  ship  have  their  duty  to  do  and  are  very  likely  to 
do  it,  for  the  sake  of  their  own  hves  and  the  proper- 
ty committed  to  then*  skill.  It  may  be  straining  a 
point,  perhaps,  but  there  is  really  some  philosophy 
in  getting  into  the  state  of  mind  of  the  droll  fellow 
who  settled  up  one  of  the  "  anxious  "  in  a  storm  off 
the  coast  of  Ii-eland,  not  many  years  ago.  The  storm, 
■which  was  very  heavy,  had  lasted  for  days,  and  seem- 
ed to  be  growing  heavier  and  heavier,  until  the 
"  landsmen  "  began  to  doubt  whether  the  ship  could 
live  in  such  a  terrible  sea,  and  one  of  them  apjjroached 
the  model  passenger  and  enquired :  "  What  he 
thought  of  it  ? — if  the  gale  lasted  much  longer  and 
the  sea  rose  much  higher,  wouldn't  they  founder  ?" 
"  Why,  what  the  deuce  is  that  to  us  ?''  repHed  the 
droll.     "  Haven't  you  paid  your  passage  ?''  "  I  ?  cer- 


02^  SHIPBOARD.  49 

tainly !"  "  The  company,  then,  have  contracted  to  take 
you  from  Liverpool  to  New  York,  for  so  many 
pounds,  haven't  they  ?"  "  Of  course  they  have — but 
what  then  ?"  "  What  then  ?  "Why,  everything,  then ! 
You  don't  sail  this  ship — you  are  a  passenger  ;  and 
it  is  their  business,  not  yours,  whether  the  ship  sinks 
or  floats."  This  may  not  have  much  reassured  the 
frightened  man,  but  it  certainly  silenced  him ; 
and  there  no  doubt  was  more  than  a  grain  of  ear- 
nest in  the  old  traveller's  philosophy  of  remembering 
that  he  did  not  steer  the  ship,  as  there  was  undoubted- 
ly comfortable  laziness  in  it. 

3d,  It  is  wise  not  to  expect  too  much  on  ship 
board,  either  in  the  way  of  luxury  or  even  of  positive 
comfort.  Ships,  at  the  largest,  are  small  as  compared 
with  hotels,  and  at  the  steadiest  are  "shaky,"  as 
compared  to  private  dwellings,  excej^t  when  the  lat- 
ter have  very  St.  Thomas  earthquakes  to  throw  them 
off  the  perpendicular.  Plenty  of  good  food,  respect- 
able though  confined  sleeping-quarters,  and  attend- 
ance fair  but  by  no  means  that  of  a  first-class  hotel 
— these  are  all  that  ought  to  be  expected  ;  and  a  very 
little  philosophy  makes  them  enough.  It  has  before 
been  said  that  "  dandyism  is  at  a  discount,  at  sea  ;" 
so  is,  or  ought  to  be,  finickiness.  What  if  neither 
shaving,  nor  dressing,  nor  any  of  the  other  offices  of 
civilized  life,  can  be  done  quite  as  well  as  at  home  ? 
Nobody  notices  whether  they  are  scrupulously  per- 
formed, or  not ;  and  some  of  the  neatest  of  men 
when  on  shore,  when  they  have  become  old  travellers, 
consent  to  be  slovenly  for  those  few  days  without  se- 
rious suffering.     The  golden   lule  on  going  to  sea, 


60  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

is  :  Exx)ect  very  little  and  he  prepared  to  put  up  good- 
humoredly  with  it  ;  then,  if  "  all  the  modern  conveni- 
ences "  should  happen  to  prevent  themselves,  as  is 
not  at  all  likely,  they  "will  afford  double  enjoyment, 
and  the  want  of  them  will  not  entail  misery. 

4th.  Determine  to  be  as  jolly  as  health  wUl  allow, 
and  as  companionable  as  is  at  all  consistent  with  the 
temperament.  Join  in  all  practical  harmless  amuse- 
ments and  exercises,  with  the  result  of  making  your 
own  days  less  tedious,  and  producing  the  same  effect 
on  those  of  others.  One  jolly  fellow,  sometimes,  seems 
to  leaven  up  a  whole  ship-load :  one  or  two  glum 
faces  act  like  a  wet-blanket  on  all  concerned.  There 
is  a  comradery  in  sea-going,  scarcely  second  to  that 
of  the  army;  and  some  of  the  pleasantest  fi-iendships 
of  years  originate  on  the  deck  filled  with  comparative 
strangers.  Quoits,  shovel-board,  chess,  draughts, 
backgammon,  social  games  at  cards,  all  these  supply 
amusement  to  those  who  will  take  any  of  them  ;  and 
there  is  room  for  any  amount  of  table  sociabihty,  at 
meals,  not  marred  but  rather  increased  by  the  little 
accidents  to  which  breakfasting  or  dining  in  rough 
weather  is  certainly  subject. 

5th.  Make  friends,  earty,  with  the  captain  and  other 
officers  of  the  ship,  so  far  as  they  will  permit  ;  but 
take  no  liberties  with  them,  and  carefully  avoid  com- 
promising any  one  of  them  who  may  have  shown  any 
peculiar  favor,  by  speaking  of  it  to  others  of  the  ship's 
cempany  or  passengers.  Strictly  obsers'e  those  car- 
dinal rales  which  forbid  going  upon  the  bridge,  talk- 
ing with  the  officers  Avhen  on  duty,  or  distracting  the 
attention  of  the  quarter-masters  at  the  wheel.  Avoid 


ON  SHIPBOARD.  51 

getting  in  the  way  of  tlie  officers  at  the  compasses, 
or  hindering  them  when  engaged  iu  that  most  impor- 
tant event  of  the  day — "  taking  an  observation." 
Don't  enquire,  any  oftener  than  is  unavoidable, 
where  the  ship  is  at  any  particular  moment,  what  a 
certain  movement  on  deck  means,  what  kind  of 
weather  it  is  going  to  be  during  the  next  twenty-four 
hours  ;  and  don't  ask  the  men,  when  they  are  heav- 
ing the  log,  how  many  miles  an  hour  the  ship  is  go- 
ing, or  don't  expect  them  to  tell  the  truth  if  you  do  ! 
Don't  get  in  the  way  when  hawsers  are  being  over- 
hauled or  yards  braced  ;  and  don't  wonder  if,  getting 
in  the  way  when  some  evolution  of  hauling  ropes  is 
going  on,  you  occasionally  trip  and  so  learn  what 
times  and  places  are  dangerous.  Don't  attempt  to 
"help,"  at  any  time,  except  in  the  rare  event  of  an 
accident  ;  and  thus  "keeping  out  of  the  way,"  with- 
out losing  any  chance  of  observation  and  enjoyment, 
secure  the  friendship  of  the  officers,  the  respect  of  the 
crew  and  the  gratitude  of  all  concerned. 

6th.  Make  friends  with  the  stewards,  at  once,  not 
only  by  treating  them  respectfully,  but  by  speaking 
to  the  two  in  charge  of  your  particular  table  and 
state-room — requesting  their  attention  and  promising 
them  the  due  douceur  at  the  end  of  the  voyage.  Half 
a  sovereign  each  to  the  saloon  and  lower-saloon  stew- 
ards, and  say  a  crown  to  the  "  boots,"  with  half-a- 
crowm  for  beer  to  the  captain  of  the  watch  who  first 
"  chalks  "  you  when  you  break  the  rules  of  the  ship 
by  going  forward,  and  perhaps  half  a  dozen  shillings 
to  persons  who  do  errands  for  you  during  the  run — 
this,  reaching  eight  to  ten  dollars  altogether,  is  quite 


52  SHOBT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

sufficient  to  grease  the  wheels  of  service  and  make 
welcome  then  and  afterwards. 

7th.  Avoid  attempting  to  read  much,  at  sea,  how- 
ever interest  may  tempt  in  that  direction.  There  is 
a  motion  and  jar  of  the  vessel,  making  the  letters 
swim  and  damaging  head  and  optic-nerves  to  a  de- 
gree needing  days  for  recovery.  Some  persons  can 
read  steadily,  almost  -svithout  injury  ;  others  cannot : 
it  is  never  best  to  try  the  experiment  when  it  can  be 
avoided.  And  there  is  rarely  much  occasion:  it  is  a 
poor  passage-hst  in  which  more  amusement  cannot 
be  found  than  in  books,  for  the  short  period  con- 
sumed in  crossing  the  Atlantic. 

8th.  Keep  on  deck,  all  that  is  possible.  Half  the 
charm  of  going  to  sea  lies  in  the  pure,  fresh  air,  ex- 
cept in  very  stormy  whether.  The  air  of  lower- 
cabins  and  state-rooms  is  necessarily  more  or  less 
confined,  and  consequently  unhealthy ;  while  the 
healthiest  atmosphere  in  the  world  comes  fi-esh  to 
the  lungs  from  blue  water.  There  is  far  less  danger 
of  sea-sickness,  too,  on  deck  than  below,  when  ac- 
tual illness  does  not  enforce  confinement  to  the  berth; 
and  the  thousand  sights  and  sounds  of  sea-life — sun- 
rises, sunsets,  moonHght,  storm-waves,  whales,  j^or- 
poise-shoals,  passing  vessels,  observations,  log  and 
lead-hea^dng,  making  and  taking  in  sail,  signalling, 
etc.,  are  only  to  be  enjoyed  by  those  who  keep  the 
deck  as  persistently  as  possible.  The  wi'iter  saw  a 
young  lady  go  below,  off  the  point  of  Sandy  Hook, 
in  the  summer  of  '65,  and  come  up  again  for  the  first 
time  at  Liverpool  bar:  she  had  the  ^laetei  passage  over 
of  any  one  on  the  ship,  but  scarcely  the  Tfwst  enjoyable  I 


ON  SHIPBOARD.  53 

9tb.  Dress  ^Yal•mly — quite  as  warmly  as  comfort 
demands,  and  err  on  the  safe  side  if  at  all.  Sea-air, 
though  healthy,  is  damp  and  deceptive  as  to  temper- 
ature. Never  mind  the  appearance;  put  on  the 
clothes. 

10th.  Take  much  exercise.  Want  of  occupation 
induces  long  sitting  at  table  and  hearty  eating;  and 
the  sj'stem  must  be  a  strong  one  which  can  endure 
this  for  days,  without  exercise,  and  yet  suffer  no  in- 
jury. When  there  is  not  too  much  sea  to  make  it 
possible,  at  least  a  mile  or  two  should  be  walked 
every  morning  and  a  corresponding  space  in  the  af- 
ternoon— the  long  cleared  decks,  or  the  gangways,  of 
most  of  the  best  steamers,  rendering  this  arausemeni 
of  exercise  easy  and  convenient. 

11th.  Put  confidence  in  the  ship:  believe,  for  the 
time  being,  that  the  ship  is  the  best  afloat.  If  you 
go  down  into  the  fire-room  (which,  by  the  way,  is 
quite  as  well  kept  out  of),  don't  fall  into  the  fancy 
that  so  large  a  mass  of  fire  in  the  midst  of  a  vessel 
must  inevitably  burn  her:  vessels  are  especially  con- 
structed to  guard  against  that  danger,  and  iron  does 
not  take  fire  easily.  Don't  be  alarmed  at  the  noises  con- 
tinually coming  from  the  fire-room,  or  think  that  some 
calamity  has  happened  there:  fii-emen  are  normally 
noisy  as  well  as  grimy,  and  they  need  to  speak  loudly, 
to  make  themselves  heard.  Don't  fancy,  in  short, 
that  everything  will  go  wrong  unless  you  attend  to 
it,  except  in  one  particular;  and  that  is, 

12th.  Join  the  fire-poUce  of  the  ship,  and  stick  to 
the  organization.  Take  uo  combustible  materials 
below  in  your  baggage — neither  matches  or  dangerous 


54  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

chemicals;  take  no  light  of  any  kind  below  the  decks, 
for  better  reason  than  because  there  is  a  severe  pun- 
ishment for  any  proceeding  of  the  kind — the  all-pow- 
erful reason  that  such  an  act  may  destroy  your  own 
life  and  the  lives  of  others.  On  this  point,  watch  your 
own  conduct  and  that  of  others,  and  no  harm  is  like- 
ly to  result  from  the  close  surveillance. 

13th.  Never  go  forward  when  the  ship  is  pitching 
into  a  hea-v^y  sea:  there  is  always  danger  of  injur}-,  in 
such  an  experiment  by  a  landsman,  and  very  often 
of  being  swept  overboard,  at  times  when  even 
sailors  can  scarcely  keep  footing  on  the  wet  and 
shppery  decks.  Never  stand  at  or  very  near  the 
tajBfraU  (extreme  stern )  in  correspondingly  heavy 
weather,  as  there  is  always  danger  of  the  ship  "jump- 
ing out  from  under  you"— an  accident  which  some- 
times happens  to  experienced  seamen  who  stand  un- 
guardedly in  that  dangerous  position.  Never  climb 
upon  the  bulwarks,  however  calm  the  sea;  for  there 
is  no  knowing  at  what  moment  there  may  be  one  roU 
— enough  to  finish  your  individual  voyage  or  delay 
the  ship  for  the  purpose  of  picking  you  up  in  a  very 
damp  condition ! 

14th.  Never  attempt  to  go  up  or  down  one  of  the 
companion-ways  (stau's),  or  along  one  of  the  gang- 
ways, or  the  decks,  when  the  sea  is  heavy,  without 
making  as  much  use  of  the  hands  as  the  feet — hold- 
ing on  finnly  to  the  nearest  convenient  i-ail.  Broken 
ribs  or  hmbs  are  sometimes  the  consequence  of  for- 
getfulness  or  bravado,  on  this  point. 

15th.  In  the  event  of  illness  (other  than  sea-sick- 
ness) don't  take  nostrums,  or  ti'ust  to  anything  in 


ON  SHIPBOARD.  65 

yorir -private  "mediciue-cliest."  There  is  always  one 
Eui'geon,  or  more,  ou  each  ship ;  they  arc  paid  for  at- 
tending to  the  health  of  passengers,  without  charge 
except  for  costly  medicine ;  they  are  particularly  famil- 
iar with  the  treatment  prudent  at  sea;  and  it  is  very 
often  the  case  that  medicines  upon  which  dependanco 
can  be  placed  when  on  the  more  stable  element, 
prove  injurious  in  the  abnormal  condition  of  never 
being  entii'ely  quiet. 

IGth.  If  sea-sick,  don't  fancy  the  disease  is  a  mor- 
tal one.  Few  people  die  of  it,  though  many  (it  is  to 
be  feared)  are  rendered  vastly  uncomfortable.  Keep 
the  bravest  heart  and  the  "  stiffest  upper-lip"  possi- 
ble, against  the  great  foe;  and  above  all,  do  not  join 
the  noble  army  of  those  who  ask  to  be  mercifully 
"  thrown  overboard"  as  a  means  of  escaping  the  tor- 
ture. Nobody  dares  obey  the  request — not  even  your 
worst  enemy,  who  wishes  that  he  could;  and  if  it" 
shovid  be  obeyed,  the  chances  are  ten  to  one  that  be- 
fore you  had  gone  down  ten  fathoms  in  blue  water 
the  cry  might  be  a  very  different  one. 

17th.  Berths,  in  sea-going  ships,  are  mostly  single; 
and  yet  it  is  best,  especially  in  heavy  weather,  to  have 
a  hed-fellow.  This  is  easily  found  in  the  valise  or  well- 
filled  carpet-bag,  which  packed  closely  in  against 
the  side-board,  the  w^ould-be  sleeper  lying  on  the 
side  in  the  inner  part  of  the  berth,  will  generally  en- 
able him  to  lie  without  rolling,  even  when  the  ship  is 
doing  her  worst  in  that  direction,  and  secure  sleep 
when  it  would  be  otherwise  impossible  from  the  con- 
stantly-waking motion. 

loth— and  more  important  than  any  of  the  pre- 


56  SHOBT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

ceding.  Eemember,  oftener  than  when  the  service  is 
read  on  Sabbath  morning,  that  there  is  a  Hand,  wdser 
and  stronger  than  that  of  any  officer  of  the  ship, 
ruhng  not  only  the  vessel  but  the  waves  upon  which 
she  rides  and  the  winds  and  other  elements  which 
may  place  her  in  periL 


VI. 

LOOK-OUTS  AND  LAND-MAKINGS. 

A  LAEGE  part  of  this  paper,  like  much  of  the  last, 
has  especial  value  for  those  who  have  never  before 
crossed  the  Atlantic,  though  it  is  possible  that  some 
of  the  matter-of-fact  information  which  it  contains 
may  be  found  beneficial,  if  studied  and  remembered, 
by  many  of  those  who  have  already  been  "  chalked  " 
in  one  or  more  passages. 

The  advice  to  remain  as  long  a  proportion  of  the 
time  as  possible  on  deck,  at  sea,  has  been  given  in 
the  previous  paper  ;  and  one  of  the  motives  has  been 
stated  as  the  natural  desire  to  see  passing  ships  and 
witness  the  novel  details  of  the  sea,  the  sky,  and 
ocean-life  generally.  This  applies  to  the  whole  cross- 
ing ;  but  there  are  especial  look-outs  to  be  kej)t  when 
leaving  land,  and  yet  more  when  approaching  it,  which 
must  not  be  neglected  if  one  of  the  greatest  pleasures 
of  the  voyage  is  not  to  be  lost. 

No  first-trip  passenger  needs  urging,  probably,  to 
"  keep  an  eye  out "  for  last  ghmpses  of  his  native 
land — to  see  (if  leaving  New  York,  as  do  ninety-nine 
one-hundreths)  the  blue  Highlands  of  Navesink  fade 
gradually  away  under  the  evening  hght,  the  shores 
of  Long  Island  disappear,  and  to  utter,  in  one  shaj)e 
or  another,  that  sentiment  which  Byron  embodied 
in 

"  My  native  land ,  good-night !" 


58  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

"We  are  all  prone  enough,  -wdtliout  urging,  to  look  a 
little  "  spoonily  "  on  the  last  speck  of  the  land  we  are 
leaving  ;  to  think  what  changes  and  what  accidents 
may  occur  before  we  next  set  eye  and  foot  upon  it ; 
and  to  feel,  for  a  brief  period,  what  they  say  that 
nearly  every  man  (and  perhaps  quite  every  ivoman) 
feels  on  the  morning  after  marriage — a  sort  of  inde- 
finable wish  that  they  had  waited.  So  these  fare- 
well points  will  be  looked  after,  earnestly  if  not  al- 
ways understandingly,  even  if,  as  in  the  marriage 
case,  the  feeling  soon  wears  away  and  the  attention 
is  engrossed  by  something  that  lies  in  the  present 
and  future  instead  of  the  past. 

There  is  not  much  of  an  out-look,  connected  with 
the  American  coast,  after  getting  fairly  away  from 
port.  There  may  be  a  glimpse  of  the  light  on  Fire 
Island,  di'opping  behind,  if  the  hour  of  departure  has 
been  late  ;  and  a  day  later  there  may  be  a  flicker  of 
light  or  a  distant  view  of  the  dark  speck  that  supphes 
it,  on  Nantucket  shoals  ;  but  that  is  all,  as  of  the  land 
covered  by  the  stars-and-stripes,  and  nearly  all  as  of 
the  continent.  In  those  days,  ah-eady  grown  old, 
when  the  steamers  carried  the  news,  there  was  a  look- 
out to  be  kei)t  for  the  approach  of  Cape  Eace,  New- 
foundland, where  the  last  telegraphic  intelhgence  was 
to  be  picked  up  for  carrying  over.  But  all  that  is 
changed  by  the  cable,  and  Cape  Eace  is  avoided 
now,  as  entirely  out  of  the  calculation.  Sometimes, 
however,  even  avoiding  that,  there  is  the  loom,  to  the 
northward,  when  three  days  out  from  port,  of  a  long, 
low-lying  line  of  coast,  not  much  more  than  a  rough 
sand-bank,  which  is  really  Sable  Island,  at  the  south- 


LAND-MAKINGS.  59 

eastern  point  of  Nova  Scotia.  Bound  to  or  by  Hali- 
fax, Le  Have  or  Liverpool,  (lights)  are  likely  to  be 
the  points  first  made,  48  to  50  hours  from  New  York  ; 
and  in  that  case,  running  up  to  Halifax  harbor  by 
Sambro  and  Chebuctoo  Heads,  entering  and  leaving 
it,  there  are  many  interesting  glimpses  of  the  rough 
coast  of  Nova  Scotia,  and  of  one  of  the  finest  harbors 
of  the  continent,  well  worthy  of  attention  even  from 
those  who  are  soon  to  see  the  more-interesting  shores 
of  the  Old  World.  Bound  for  Europe  direct,  now, 
Sable  Island,  if  seen  at  all,  may  be  safely  set  down 
as  supplying  the  last  peep  at  the  Western  Continent. 
It  is  the  approach  to  the  European  Continent  which 
naturally  supphes  the  most  interesting  of  look-outs 
and  land-makings  to  the  American  making  his  first 
run  over-sea.  This  is  not  the  place  to  enlarge  upon 
the  fact,  so  full  of  romance  and  feeling ;  but  small 
prospect  must  there  be  of  that  man  finding  much  en- 
joyment in  travel,  who  does  not  thrill  at  the  first 
sight  of  that  Old  World  of  history  and  long  descent, 
so  different  in  every  regard  from  the  New.  It  is  al- 
ways pleasant  to  "make  land,"  after  the  briefest  and 
pleasantest  of  sea-voyages,  as  many  a  man  has  fully 
proved  since  the  day  when  Columbus  and  his  crew 
watched  so  wearily  for  the  West  Indian  Islands  ;  and 
no  number  of  times  crossing  the  Atlantic  takes  away 
the  satisfied  feeling  at  having  done  it  once  more.  But 
no  man  sees  the  same  headlands  with  quite  the  same 
eyes,  twice  ;  and  it  is  all  the  more  important,  for 
that  reason,  that  the  approach  to  the  European 
coast,  by  whatever  line  and  route  it  is  made,  should 
not  be  lost  by  the  traveller  on  his  first  voyage.     Only 

6 


60  SHORT- TRIP   GUIDE. 

less  important  is  it  that  the  old  traveller,  certain  to  be 
enquired  of  by  those  who  lack  his  experience,  should 
be  able  to  answer  their  questions  a  Httle  more  readi- 
ly and  correctly  than  most  non-sea-fariag  men  find 
convenient. 

The  preliminary  understanding  being  estabhshed, 
that  when  nearing  the  European  coast,  as  shown  by 
the  greening  water,  gulls,  and  increasing  number  of 
vessels,  the  traveller  should  keep  as  bright  a  look-out, 
by  day  or  by  night,  as  if  the  safety  of  the  shijj  de- 
pended on  his  vigilance — berth  to  be  quitted  at  night, 
or  table  by  day,  the  moment  that  "  light "  or  "  land  " 
is  whispered — this  being  understood,  the  following 
somewhat-extended  resume  of  the  prominent  points 
made  on  aj)proaching  the  Old  World,  by  steamer,  by 
each  of  several  different  routes,  will  be  found  instruc- 
tive as  mere  reading  and  highly-useful  for  reference 
at  the  critical  juncture.  It  should  be  remembered, 
meanwhile,  that  the  principal  land-marks  are  light- 
houses, or  the  head-lands  or  rocks  which  make  them 
necessary, — and  that  if  approached  by  night,  the  light 
itself  is  the  only  object  seen — if  by  day  usually  a 
white  hght-house  with  the  surroundings  indicated. 

UP  THE  IRISH  OE  ST.  GEORGE'S  CHAXXEL  TO  LIVERPOOL. 

First  point  made,  usually,  on  the  Liverpool  route, 
are  the  sharp  and  dangerous-looking  SkeUig  Eocks, 
soon  followed  by  Dursey  Island,  with  the  head-lands 
and  mountains  of  Keri-y  beginning  to  loom  dimly 
behind  them,  on  the  extreme  south-westerly  point  of 
Ireland,  the  main-land  adjoining  being  a  mountain- 


LAND-MAKINGS.  61 

ous  tongue  or  peuiaisula,  between  Kenmare  Bay  on 
the  north,  and  Bantry  Bay  (scene  of  so  many  of  the 
invasionary  landings  of  the  French  and  others)  on 
the  south.  The  point  is  worthy  of  especial  notice, 
from  the  fact  that  probably  more  voyagers  from  the 
Western  "World  have  first  looked  upon  Europe  in 
those  little  specks,  than  in  any  other  one  point  of 
view.  The  Skelligs  he  some  fifty  miles,  and  Dursey 
Island  and  its  "Bull,"  "Cow"  and  "Calf"  rocks, 
some  thirty,  north  by  west  from  Cape  Clear,  towards 
which  the  course  of  the  vessel  is  shaped  from  the  mo- 
ment of  making  them. 

The  next  object  of  special  interest,  the  coast  being 
rapidly  approached  and  the  mountains  of  Munster 
beginning  to  loom,  is  Fastnet  Bock,  a  pyramid  rising 
out  of  the  water  at  some  five  or  six  miles  from  the 
high,  dark,  rocky  shore,  just  before  reaching  Cape 
Clear — the  whole  crowned  with  a  white  light-house, 
and  the  picture  (by  day-light)  one  of  desolation  sur- 
rounded by  a  strange  beauty.  Here,  and  at  the 
doubhng  of  Cape  Clear  (an  island)  immediately  fol- 
lowing, by  taking  Fastnet  on  the  right  and  the  Cape 
on  the  left — here  the  entrance  is  made  into  St. 
George's  or  the  Irish  Channel ;  and  here,  too,  the 
peculiar  character  of  the  green,  treeless  Irish  high 
lands  may  be  observed,  with  first  glimpses  of  the 
bold  rocky  coast,  with  surf  breaking  white  against  it 
— the  cabins  from  which  Paddy  emerges,  nestling 
among  the  hills — the  little  round  martello-towers 
crowning  them,  speaking  of  smugghng  prevention 
and  by-gone  invasions — the  peculiar  tan-colored- 
sailed  fishing-boats,  and  luggers  that  fly  about  like 


62  SHORT- TRIP  GUIDE. 

sea-guEs, — the  vessels  (steamers  and  otlieis)  drop- 
ping into  and  out  of  the  Channel,  etc. 

It  is  at  near  Cape  Clear,  and  after  passing  the  bold 
head-land  of  Mizen  Head, — near  a  little  hamlet  called 
Crookhaven,  snugged  away  behind  the  hills,  that  the 
telegraph  station  is  located,  at  which  arriving  ships 
are  reported  ;  and  it  is  fi'om  this  place,  really,  that 
the  announcements  are  made  of  steamer-arrivals  at 
Queenstown. 

Beyond  this,  and  commencing  to  run  up  the  Irish 
coast,  the  next  point  of  any  importance,  reached  with- 
in a  few  miles,  is  the  bluff  headland,  crowned  with  a 
hght,  known  as  the  Old  Head  of  Kinsale,  and  doubly 
famous  as  the  spot  where  the  American  packet  Al- 
bion was  lost  many  years  ago,  with  so  large  a  num- 
ber of  passengers  (among  whom  was  Napoleon's 
Marshal  Lefeb"\-re,  Duke  of  Dantzic) — and  as  the 
place  which  gives  name  to  the  one  nobleman,  the 
Baron  of  Kinsale,  who  is  allowed  to  wear  his  hat  in 
the  presence  of  the  British  sovereign,  that  favor  hav- 
ing been  accorded  the  family  many  generations  ago. 
as  a  reward  for  a  Baron  of  Kinsale  having  overcome, 
by  his  personal  strength  and  prowess,  a  continental 
champion  who  overcame  all  others. 

It  is  perhaps  an  hour  after  passing  Kinsale,  that 
Daunt's  Rock  and  its  bell-buoy  are  reached — near 
the  entrance  to  Queenstown  harbor,  and  the  spot  on 
which  the  fine  steamer  City  of  Xew  York  was  lost  a 
few  years  since,  though  without  any  sacrifice  of  Hfe. 
Five  miles  beyond,  Eoche's  Point  thrusts  out,  with 
its  light,  forming  the  southern  lip  of  Queenstown 
harbor  (Cove  of  Cork)  not  imlike  the   Nev.-  York 


LAND-MAKINGS.  63 

Narrows  in  general  conformation.  Here,  in  fine 
weather,  a  steam-tender  takes  olT  passengers  and 
mails  for  Quecnstown  and  Ireland  generall};,  while 
the  ship  merely  stops  power  and  lies  off  the  harbor 
long  enough  to  discharge  the  two  hinds  of  "  baggage." 
Sometimes,  when  the  weather  is  rough  and  transfer 
more  difficult,  the  ship  steams  into  the  harbor  (as 
she  always  does  to  take  on  mails  and  passengers 
when  coming  west) ;  and  then,  whether  entering  to 
land  or  come  out  again,  a  vicAV  is  caught  of  a  very 
handsome  land-locked  harbor,  rather  narrow  of  en- 
trance but  very  commodious  within,  with  the  town 
of  Queenstowu  (so  named  in  place  of  the  old  "  Cove 
of  Cork,"  in  honor  of  the  Queen's  visit,  fifteen  to 
twenty  years  ago,)  lying  on  the  sloping  hill  at  the 
back  or  north-west  extremity,  and  the  beautiful 
river  Lee  sweeping  round  behind  it,  south-westward, 
to  the  city  of  Cork,  which  hes  at  some  miles  dis- 
tance. 

Supposing  that  the  passenger  does  not  land  at 
Queenstown,  and  that  he  comes  out  of  or  away  fi'om 
the  harbor  with  the  ship  (the  Channel-pilot  now  on 
board)  the  next  prominent  point  made  is  the  rocky 
island  and  Ught  of  Bally  cotton;  then  that  of  Mine 
Head;  then  the  Hook  Tower  (nearly  off  Waterford); 
then  Conigsbeg  Light-ship;  and  finally  the  tall  Mhite 
light  of  Tuskar,  which  concludes  the  run  directly  up- 
Channel. 

So  far,  the  L:ish  coast  has  been  kept  very  near,  the 
character  of  its  scenery  widely  varying  from  bold 
and  barren  to  low  and  fertile,  and  distant  glimpses 
of  mountains  almost  all  the  while.     But  from  Tuskar 


64  SHORT- TRIP   GUIDE. 

the  ship  "  squares  away"  across  the  Channel  to-.vards 
Holyhead  and  Liverpool,  and  the  Irish  coast  is  soon 
lost  to  view,  through  the  Wicklow  Mountains  linger 
long  on  the  sight. 

It  is  ten  to  twelve  hours  after  leaving  Tuskar,  gen- 
erally, when  the  bold,  rocky  headland  of  Holyhead, 
in  Wales,  is  made,  ahead  to  the  right,  witk  its  strange 
cleft  and  bridged  rock,  its  white  light-house,  and  the 
wonderful  break-water  defending  the  harbor.  Be- 
yond that  point,  and  curviiig  round  it  south-east- 
ward towards  Liverpool,  the  high  Welsh  lands  are 
seen  to  be  thrifty  farms,  with  neat  farm-houses  and 
many  wind-mills.  Behind,  the  far  Welsh  mountains 
rise;  and  in  very  clear  weather  distant  views  are 
caught  of  the  peaks  of  Snowdon  and  others  of  the 
highest  mountains  in  the  southwest  of  Great  Britain. 
An  object  of  great  interest  is  found,  not  long  after 
passing  Holyhead,  in  the  piles  of  rocks  known  as  the 
Skerries,  two  or  three  miles  from  the  Welsh  shore — 
of  course  dangerous  and  lighted.  Then  come,  as 
prominent  pouits  on  a  coast  all  rough  and  bold, 
Point  Lynas,  the  pilot-station  of  Liverpool;  and  Great 
Orme's  Head,  a  rough  promontory,  with  one  of  the 
most  powerful  Fresnel  lights  in  the  world.  Glimpses 
may  be  caught  of  little  Welsh  villages  nestled  at  the 
feet  of  the  high  lands,  and  Llandudno  and  some  of 
the  other  watering-places . 

But  the  mouth  of  the  Mersey  and  Liverpool  are  al- 
most in  view.  Vessels,  bound  out  and  in,  steamers, 
bound  to  and  from  Channel  j)orts,  odd-looking  steam- 
tugs  (to  an  American  eye)  and  odder-looking  pilot- 
boats,  all  begin  to  thicken,  and  the  evidence  is  plain 


LAKD-MAKINGS.  65 

of  approach  to  the  most  important  seaport  of  either 
continent.  The  Northwest  Light-ship  is  the  first 
point  marking  the  nearer  approach;  then  the  great 
Bell  Bnoy  on  the  bar  clangs  its  warning  as  it  rocks 
and  rolls;  then  Formby  and  Crosby  Light-ships  are 
passed;  at  the  right  the  Rock-Light  at  New  Brighton, 
nearly  opposite  the  cit}',  closes  the  list;  and  the  pas- 
senger is  within  view  of  the  forest  of  masts  and  the 
wonderful  long  Hne  of  docks,  showing  on  the  left  and 
revealing  the  great  port  and  city  of  Liverpool. 

It  may  be  proper  to  say,  here,  and  the  truth  ap- 
plying to  other  places  as  w^ell  as  this — that  the  ap- 
proach to  the  port  should  never  he  lost,  especially  if 
there  is  daylight  in  which  to  catch  it.  Many  do  lose 
it,  in  the  anxiety  to  look  after  baggage,  change  cloth- 
ing, etc.,  but  this  slionld  never  be  done.  Baggage 
should  have  been  looked  after,  if  at  hand,  before; 
that  in  the  hold  can  bo  looked  after  as  it  comes  up, 
when  the  ship  is  at  anchor;  and  there  is  no  occasion 
whatever  of  coming  out  in  "  full  fig"  in  the  Avay  of  cos- 
costume,  until  reaching  the  hotel  and  washing  off  the 
grime  of  the  voyage. 

Once  more  :  travellers  who  desire  both  to  learn 
and  enjoy,  should  never  permit  themselves  to  lose 
the  first  approach  to  any  new  coast  or  any  great 
port,  even  if  a  Httle  broken  rest  and  discomfort 
should  be  found  necessary  to  secure  it.  In  no  other 
way  can  the  general  situation  and  bearings  be  so 
well  attained,  and  to  miss  the  opportunity  once  may 
1)6  to  miss  it  finally. 


66  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

rP  THE  BRITISH  CHANNEL  TO  SOUTHAMPTON  OE  LONDON. 

The  Irish  coas  t  is  not  made  at  all  on  the  voyage  to 
London  or  Southampton.  The  first  point  sighted, 
if  no  error  occurs  in  calculation,  wiU  be  found  the 
Scilly  Rocks — small  islands,  Avith  the  light  on  St. 
Agnes,  the  largest  of  them,  a  little  south  of  the  Land's 
End  (Cornwall)  the  extreme  southwestern  point  of 
England — at  all  times  a  dangerous  point,  and  pain- 
fully famous  in  history  as  the  sjjot  where  the  whole 
fleet  of  Sir  Cloudesley  Shovel,  the  English  admiral, 
was  ground  to  pieces  and  all  hands  perished,  in  the 
terrible  gale  of  November  2G,  1703,  said  to  be  the 
heaviest  ever  known  in  England,  destroying  the  Ed- 
dystone  Lighthouse,  burying  the  Bishop  of  Bath  and 
Wells  under  the  ruins  of  his  palace,  wrecking  and 
drowning  eight  thousand  sailors,  blowing  down  seven- 
teen thousand  trees  in  Kent  alone,  and  eHciting  a 
description  from  Defoe,  the  author  of  "  Robiason 
Crusoe.'' 

The  next  point,  some  three  hours  later,  is  the  ap- 
pearance at  the  left  of  the  high  bluff  and  light  of  the 
Lizard  Head  (commonly  spoken  of  as  the  "Lizard'') 
the  first  glimpse  of  the  main  land  of  Great  Britain. 
In  some  two  or  two-and-a-half  hours  after,  if  the 
weather  be  particularly  fine,  a  distant  glimpse  may 
be  caught,  far  away  to  the  left,  of  either  the  tower  or 
light  of  Eddystone  Lighthouse,  perhaps  the  most 
noted  erection  of  its  class  in  the  world — standing  on 
a  single  rock,  miles  from  the  shore,  dashed  against 
by  the  sea  in  every  storm,  two  or  thi'ee  times  earned 
away  and  rebuilt,  and  one  of  the  best  existing  proofs 


LAND-MAKIXGS.  67 

of  man's  po^Yel•  and  determination  in  figliting  -wind 
and  wave.  The  next  light  and  land  mark  are  those 
of  the  Start  Point,  reached  within  the  next  one-and- 
a-half  hours  ;  and  the  next  and  far  more  important, 
is  the  Bill  of  Portland,  (so  named  from  its  resem- 
blance to  the  bill  of  a  bird)  about  forty  miles  beyond, 
and  stretching  out  from  below  Dorchester  and  Wey- 
mouth. 

From  this  point,  if  on  the  way  to  Southampton, 
land  is  scarcely  lost  again,  as  very  soon  conies  St. 
Albans  Head,  at  the  other  or  eastern  extremity  of 
Weymouth  Bay, — of  which,  and  most  of  the  other 
points  made  on  the  way  up-Channel,  it  is  almost  need- 
less to  say,  to  those  at  all  acquainted  with  geogi-a- 
phy,  that  the  prevailing  character  of  the  coast  is 
bold,  rough  and  rocky,  with  chalk  (giving  name  to 
the  "white  cliifs  of  Albion")  commencing  to  show 
fi-eely  and  never  losing  that  appearance  until  the 
mouth  of  the  Thames  is  really  entered.  Not  long 
after  leaving  St.  Albans  Head,  the  appropriatel}-- 
named  Needles  and  their  light  are  made — on  the 
west  point  or  head  of  the  turtle-shaped  Isle  of  Wight, 
forming  the  south  lip  of  the  sound  between  Wight  and 
the  main,  called  the  Solent.  Up  the  Solent,  then, 
with  the  beautiful  wooded  and  villa-studded  island  on 
the  right  and  the  main  land  on  the  left,  and  sheering 
sharp  to  the  left  or  north-and-by-west  Avhen  off 
Cowes  and  its  roads,  (the  right  flipper  of  the  turtle) 
catching  a  distant  glimpse  of  Portsmouth,  Gosjiort 
and  the  great  naval  station  of  Spithead,  at  the  right — 
not  much  of  additional  interest  remains,  excej^t  the 
first  shore-views  of  fertile   Old  England,  until  the 


68  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

twenty  or  thirty  miles  of  Southampton -water  are 
measui'ed,  and  all  the  aspects  before  noted  in  the  ap- 
proach to  Liverpool  are  more  or  less  duplicated  La 
nearing  Southampton,  a  great  seaport  in  and  of  it- 
self, and  still  greater  as  supplying  a  cross-country 
and  railway  port  to  London. 

If  the  destination  is  London  instead  of  Southamp- 
ton, all  the  points  before  named  are  made,  up  to 
Portland  Bill  and  possibly  St.  Albans  Head,  after 
which  the  next,  instead  of  the  Needles,  on  the  west, 
is  St.  Catherine's,  on  the  extreme  south  point  of  the 
Isle  of  Wight  (the  left  flipper  of  the  turtle  as  Cowes 
was  the  right). 

There  is  a  long  stretch  of  Channel  running  between 
St.  Catherine's  and  the  next  point  made  on  the  Lon- 
don route — Beachy  Head,  twenty  or  thhty  miles  be- 
yond Brighton,  and  famous  for  the  allusions  to  its 
height  made  by  the  British  sailors  in  the  old  nautical 
romances,  who  had  a  habit  of  speaking  of  anythuig 
extra  large  as  "  looming  like  Beachy  Head  in  a  fog." 
The  chalk  chffs  have  now  assumed  such  height  and 
prominence  that  the  whole  coast,  whenever  seen, 
seems  to  be  entu-ely  white  and  perpendicular,  though 
there  is  really  an  increase  in  their  height  until  past 
Dover.  The  next  prominent  point  after  Beachy  Head, 
is  Dungeness;  and  very  soon  after  passing  this  head, 
first  Folkestone  and  then  Dover  may  be  seen  at  a  dis- 
tance, while  to  the  right  the  French  coast  breaks  into 
view,  lower  than  the  Enghsh  though  something  like 
it  in  boldness  and  chalky  character. 

The  South  Foreland  is  made  and  passed  at  near 
Dover,  aud  the  Channel  then  becomes  the  Downs — 


LAND-MAKINGS.  69 

those  waters   commemorated    in    tlie  old   song   of 
"Black-Eyed  Susan:" 

"  All  in  the  Downs  the  fleet  was  moored, 
Their  streamers  waving  in  the  wind,"  &c. 

After  Dover,  Deal,  Eamsgate  (celebrated  as  the 
greatest  of  all  summer-bathing-places  of  the  middle 
classes) ;  then  the  North  Foreland  and  those  Good- 
win Sands  on  which  so  many  ships  have  been 
wrecked  and  so  much  of  life  and  property  lost  in  the 
terrible  quick  sands.  Rounding  the  North  Foreland, 
comes  Margate,  the  rival  of  Ramsgate  in  summer- 
bathing  and  boarding;  and  at  this  poirxt  the  Channel, 
or  Downs,  becomes  the  Nore,  actually  the  broad 
mouth  of  the  Thames,  though  many  miles  are  yet  to  be 
traversed  before  the  Thames  proper  is  entered  and 
the  ascent  commenced  at  Sheerness,  by  the  great 
Chatham  Dockyards,  Gravesend,  Deptford,  Woolwich, 
&c., — points  which  may  properly  be  said  to  belong  to 
London  proper  and  its  environs,  and  consequently  out 
of  the  province  of  this  paper. 

TO   GLASGOW,  BY   THE    "  NORTH    ABOUT." 

Nearly  all  the  steamers  bound  from  America  for 
Glasgow,  direct,  now-a-days,  take  the  course  known 
as  the  "North  About" — pass  around  the  north  of 
Ireland  instead  of  making  it  at  the  south  end  and 
passing  up  through  the  Irish  Channel.  Their  port 
of  call,  in  Ireland,  is  MovUle,  the  port  of  Londonder- 
ry, in  the  entreme  north;  and  the  points  made  and 
the  courses  pursued  are  briefly  as  foUows,  before  and 
after  touching  at  MoviUe: 


70  SHOBT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

The  first  European  land  made,  by  this  route  is 
Tory  Island,  on  the  extreme  northwest  coast  of  Done- 
gal. Then  with  perhaps  a  distant  ghmpse  of  the  ter- 
ribly rocky  and  threatening  main-coast,  at  Malta  Head, 
the  next  point  is  the  Island  of  Instrahull,  off  the  ex- 
treme northern  extremity  of  all  Ii-eland.  Then,  com- 
ing southward,  Glengall  Head  is  made  at  the  right, 
with  Innishowen  Head  not  long  after  and  forming 
the  north  lip  of  the  entrance  to  Loch  Foyle,  on  which 
stands  Londonderry. 

Moville,  a  tumble-down  old  town,  stands  just  be- 
hind Innishowen;  and  beautiful  views  of  the  pecuhar 
northern  Irish  scenery,  and  over  the  broad  Loch,  or 
bay,  may  be  caught  from  the  anchorage  off  the  to^vn. 
Here  conveyance  is  taken  to  Londonderry,  and  rail 
thence  southward,  by  passengers  leaving  the  steam- 
ers. 

Leaving  Moville,  for  Glasgow,  the  course  is  nearly 
northeastward,  for  a  time,  leaving  the  Giant's  Cause- 
way at  no  great  distance  on  the  right,  until  Rathlin 
Island  is  made  ;  then  the  bold  promontories  of  the 
MuUs  of  Kinnoul  and  Cantu-e  are  passed,  again  on 
the  left;  then  Sanda  Island,  at  the  southeastern  ex- 
tremity of  Cantu'e.  From  this  point  the  passage  is 
sometimes  made  through  the  Sound  of  Kilbranna,  be- 
tween Cantu'e  on  the  left  and  the  rocky,  treeless, 
heath-covered  island  of  Arran  on  the  right, — while 
much  oftener  the  run  is  made  up  the  right  side  of  the 
island  of  Arran,  in  which  latter  case,  especially,  a  pecu- 
ilarly  fine  view  is  caught,  in  fine  weather,  just  opposite 
Sanda  and  some  distance  away  to  the  right,  of  Ailsa 
Craig,  one  of  the  most  remarkable  of  all  the  x^rojec- 


LAND-MAKINGS.  71 

tlons  of  this  beautifully  wild  coast.  Ailsa  lies  at  per- 
haps twenty  miles  distance  from  the  ]\Iull  of  Cautii-e, 
eastward,  and  about  fourteen  or  fifteen  from  Sanda; 
— it  rises  a  fearful  mass  of  rock,  more  than  a  thous- 
and feet  above  the  sea  that  breaks  white  at  its  base, 
cone-shaped  and  apparently  inaccessible,  while  thous- 
ands upon  thousands  of  wild  fowl  make  it  theii*  nest- 
ling-place, wheel,  circle  and  scream  around  it — the 
scene  one  always  remembered  by  the  traveller  who 
has  witnessed  it. 

Assuming  that  the  run  is  made  eastward,  up  the 
east  side  of  Arran,  (the  westward  passage  through 
the  Sound  of  Kilbranna  having  little  interest  until 
the  north  end  of  the  island  is  rounded  and  Bute 
comes  into  view,  as  in  the  route  now  to  be  noted) — 
the  next  point  of  interest,  after  passing  Ailsa  Craig, 
is  Pladda  light,  on  a  little  rocky  island  at  the  south- 
east point  of  the  island  of  Arran;  and  then  Arran  is 
for  some  time  in  full  view  at  the  left  (its  characteris- 
tics of  scenery  before  mentioned)  until  the  attention 
is  distracted  by  Holy  Isle,  another  of  its  small  islets, 
larger  than  Ailsa  Craig  and  almost  as  wild  looking. 
Lamlash  harbor  and  Brodick  towil  and  watering- 
place,  are  both  passed  on  the  left,  on  Arran  ;  then 
come  the  small  and  rocky  Cumbrae  Islands,  with 
Hght,  on  the  right,  with  the  Isle  of  Bute  on  the  left, 
much  softer  and  better  cultivated  than  either  Arran 
or  the  mainland  previously  passed.  Toward  light 
comes  next,  on  the  sound  called  the  Kyles  of  Bute, 
between  Bute  and  Toward. 

The  remainder  of  the  brief  passage  up  the  now-en- 
tered Filth  of  Clyde,  to  Greenock,  may  probably 


72  SHORT-TBIP  GUIDE. 

vie  with  the  approach  to  any  port  in  the  world. 
For  the  scenery,  on  both  bides,  is  softened  and  beau- 
tiful ;  and  ahead,  at  a  distance,  the  Highlands 
of  Perthshu-e  hft  themselves  in  fine  weather,  Ben 
Lomond  crowning  all.  On  the  left,  half  way  from 
the  Kyles  to  the  mouth  of  the  Clyde,  Dunoon  water- 
ing-place shows  picturesquely  at  the  left,  with  Clough 
hght  at  the  right  and  the  Gaunt  Duck  Rocks  and 
beacon  just  off  Dunoon.  Then  Kempach  point  is 
passed  to  the  right,  and  Gouroch;  and  the  smoky, 
manufacturing,  ship-building  town  of  Greenock  is 
seen  at  the  right  or  south  bank  of  the  Clyde  Eiver, 
where  it  empties  into  the  Firth  and  forms  Greenock 
Roads,  lying  at  the  foot  of  the  T\Tiin  Hills  (whence 
its  frequent  rains),  with  the  watering  place  of  Helens- 
burg  on  the  opposite  promontoiy,  between  Loch 
Long  on  the  left  and  the  Httle  Gare  Loch  on  the 
right — up  the  latter  of  which,  for  some  reason  not 
yet  explained,  all  the  Clyde-built  ships  always  go  to 
adjust  their  compasses !  At  which  point  the  pro- 
vince of  the  present  paper  ceases. 

UP   THE  BBITISH*  CHANNEL    (fEENCH  SIDE)    TO  BREST    AND 
HAVRE. 

The  first  point  ordinarily  made,  on  this  route,  is 
Ushant,  a  very  high  rocky  island  with  lighthouse 
crowning  a  literal  pile  of  rocks,  on  the  extreme  north- 
western corner  of  France  (Brittany).  Thence  the 
coui'se  is  about  southeast,  three  or  four  miles,  to  the 
entrance  of  the  harbor  of  Brest,  displapng  the  usual 
long  high  piers  and  shut-in  port,  usual  to  French 
Channel  towns,  with  the  addition  of  very  extensive 


LAND-MAKINGS.  73 

and  formidable  fortifications.  Here  passengers  who 
•wish  to  hurry  direct  to  Paris,  land  and  proceed  by 
rail,  only  some  six  or  eight  hours  being  consumed  in 
reaching  the  capital. 

Proceeding  onward  from  Brest  to  Havre,  how- 
ever, by  ship,  Ushant  is  again  made,  and  rounded  to 
the  north  and  west.  Some  five  hours  later,  steering 
almost  due  east,  the  island  of  Guernsey  is  sighted  at 
the  right — an  island  of  singular  conformation,  with 
little  wood,  high  in  the  centre  and  drooping  at  either 
end.  In  good  weather,  Alderney,  another  and  yet 
smaller  island,  will  be  sighted  next,  at  the  right ; 
while  it  is  only  in  exceptionally  clear  weather  that  the 
island  of  Jersey,  lying  further  behind,  comes  into 
view. 

Some  three  or  four  hours  after  passing  Guernsey, 
Cape  La  Hogue  comes  in  sight,  famous  for  one  of  the 
great  naval  battles — the  cape  backed  by  very  high 
bluff  lands,  while  the  light  stands  low.  Cherbourg 
is  made  next,  some  three  or  four  miles  beyond  La 
Hogue;  and  in  a  good  atmosphere  a  very  fine  view  of 
its  great  breakwater  (one  of  the  finest  in  the  world) 
and  immense  and  formidable  fortifications,  may  be 
caught,  as  also  of  the  distant  heights  which  relieve 
the  low  character  of  the  coast. 

After  Cherbourg  the  next  point  made  is  Cape  Levi, 
showing  the  peculiarity  of  two  lighthouses,  one 
above  the  other.  Then  Cape  Barfleur,  with  very 
high  lighthouse  on  long  peninsula,  while  the  grounds 
behind  rise  high  at  a  little  distance.  Next,  in  fine 
weather,  Cape  La  Hague  is  seen,  the  course  being 
now  nearly  southeast-by-south.     Then  Capp  La  Heve, 


74  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

with  two  lights  on  the  top  of  a  formidable  and  al- 
most perpendicular  hill ;  then,  and  finally,  about  three 
miles  from  La  Heve,  the  opening  of  the  splendid  port 
of  Havre,  one  of  the  oldest  and  finest  in  France,  with 
its  long  pier,  light-house  at  end,  and  other  charac- 
teristics before  noted  as  common  to  all  French  Chan- 
nel ports.  Here  (at  the  mouth  of  the  Seine)  a  splen- 
did old  city  presents  itself,  with  a  strange  blending 
of  commercial  and  historical  importance  ;  and  here 
again,  rail  communication  opens  to  Paris  and  the 
opportunity  for  continental  rambling  generally. 


VII. 

ENTERING  FOEEIGN  COUNTEIES. 

•  There  are  a  few  pieces  of  advice  to  be  given  to 
short-trip  travellers,  Avith  reference  to  entering  for- 
eign countries,  highly  important  if  very  brief 

Stepping  off  the  ship  that  has  borne  the  Ameri- 
can abroad,  he  should  heed  one  especial  dictate  of 
prudence — to  remember  that  ho  is  abroad,  not  neces- 
sarily beyond  the  protection  of  his  own  flag  (tliougli 
a  little  too  often),  but  Avhere  governments  different 
from  his  own  hold  sway,  and  where  much  is  to  bo 
lost  and  nothing  gained  by  mixing  himself  up  with 
the  local  quarrels  of  any  one  of  those  nations.  He 
may  have  allowed  himself  to  talk  Fenianism,  or 
ultra-British  hatred  of  the  idea  of  Irish  nationality, 
on  ship-board,  up  to  the  veiy  hour  of  landing — 
though  even  then  he  had  often  better  kept  silence, 
to  guard  against  spying  that  may  place  him  under 
suspicion  after  landing;  but  be  that  as  it  may,  from 
the  moment  of  touching  any  foreign  soil,  if  he  is  a 
prudent  man,  he  will  "  keep  his  tongue  between  his 
teeth  "  as  to  what  he  believes  to  be  wrong  or  right, 
governmentally,  in  the  countries  visited.  He  may 
believe,  say,  in  the  proj^riety  of  setting  "  the  Green 
above  the  Red  "  at  as  early  a  day  as  possible  ;  but 
that  is  no  reason  why  he  should  utter  imprudent 
words,  on  landing  at  Queenstown  or  Belfast,  calcu- 


76  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

lated  to  get  him  into  just  such  scrapes,  all  the  way 
from  mere  .  temporary  arrest  to  imprisonment  and 
possible  trial,  as  scores  of  Americans  have  run 
into,  without  really  meaning  anything,  during  the 
troubled  years  since  1865.  If  he  should  happen  to 
be  "down  on  the  Irish,"  there  is  no  greater  reason 
why  he  should  declare  his  faith  too  loudly  and  yvljx 
the  risk  of  getting  mauled  or  killed  by  the  hottest  of 
the  descendants  of  Brian  Boroihme. 

When  in  England,  too,  no  absolute  necessity  ex- 
ists for  abvising  the  Queen  and  vaunting  the  superi- 
ority of  American  institutions,  in  a  manner  calculated 
to  work  discomfort  to  others  and  inconvenience  to 
self;  beyond  the  Channel,  on  French  soil,  even  if 
Napoleon  the  Third  is  believed  to  be  a  tyrant,  it  is 
wiser  not  to  say  as  much  where  a  government  spy 
may  hear  and  heed  at  any  moment ;  and  the  same 
remark  will  apply,  even  more  forcibly,  to  touring  in 
any  of  the  other  monarchical  countries  of  Europe, 
Prussia,  Austria,  Italy,  Spain,  etc.,  not  to  mention 
Russia,  the  most  dangerous  of  all.  In  one  country — 
Switzerland,  itself  a  republic,  republicanism  can  be 
talked  with  both  safety  and  pleasure  ;  and  it  is  pru- 
dent to  run  over  to  the  Alps  for  the  purpose  of  "  let- 
ting off  steam  "  in  that  direction,  if  the  pressure  be- 
comes too  great  for  safety. 

There  is  another  thing  to  be  avoided,  commen- 
cing in  Ireland  and  scarcely  ending  throughout  Eu- 
rope. Most  of  the  European  countries  likely  to  be 
visited  by  short-trip  Americans,  are  Catholic,  and  all 
of  them  (Great  Britain  not  excepted)  part-Catholic, 
Most  Americans  who  go  over  are  either  Protestants 


ENTERIXG  FOEEIGX  COILYTFIES.  11 

or  Nothingarians — no  lovers  of  Catliolicism,  either  of 
the  classes  ;  and  the  liahit  is  somewhat  too  general 
of  speaking  disparagingly  of  tlie  forms  of  the  Cath- 
olic worship,  and  of  the  Catholics  themselves,  nrider 
the  roofs  of  their  magnificent  edifices,  within  which 
are  gathered  many  of  the  very  objects  of  art  most 
strongly  calling  the  traveller's  attention  and  afford- 
ing him  most  delight.  This  course  is  unwise,  in  one 
point  of  view,  and  cruel  in  another:  unwise,  as  it  in- 
voh'es  ill-feeling  and  possible  jiersonal  discomfort — 
cruel,  as  it  needlessly  pains  others  who  hold  differ- 
ently. It  is  rudeness  as  icell  as  folly  to  go  into  any 
Church,  in  emylancl,  without,  while  remaining  there, 
observing  its  rides  of  conduct  and  refraining  from 
any  offensive  act  or  comment.  "  If  things  do  not 
suit  you,  here,  well  enough  to  allow  you  to  act  as 
gentlemen  and  friends  while  here,  be  kind  enough  to 
remain  away  !  "  might  be  very  often  said,  with  pro- 
priety, to  those  Americans  who  start  out  ii-om  home 
with  the  determination  to  insult  the  world  if  they 
cannot  proselyte  it. 

So  much  for  the  preparation  of  conduct,  on  enter- 
ic'g  foreign  countries.  Of  another  preparation — that 
involving  a  proper  understanding  of  American  nation- 
al resources  and  due  knowledge  what  in  American 
institutions  can  and  cannot  be  improved — something 
has  already  been  said.  And  it  only  remains  to  deal 
a  moment  with  one  or  two  of  the  national  regula- 
tions connected  with  persons  and  property,  some  of 
which  may  be  vexatious  while  all  must  Jbe  submitted 
to  with  the  best  grace  possible. 

The  advice  has  already  been  given — have  pass- 


78  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

ports,  useful  ia  all  countries,  indispensable  in  some. 
In  some  of  the  European  countries  they  will  be  de- 
manded at  short  intervals  by  government  officials, 
taken  away  to  be  vishd  (examined  and  compared), 
and  sometimes  kept  longer  than  may  seem  necessaiy 
to  the  traveller.  For  this  there  is  but  one  rule :  give 
them  up  calmly,  and  wait  with  what  jjatience  can  be 
summoned.  The  arrangement  is  not,  as  it  may  ap- 
pear at  the  first  glance,  a  pei'sonal  insult  to  you  : 
others  suffer  in  the  same  manner,  and  live  through 
the  suffering. 

Again,  in  all  the  despotic  countries  a  require- 
ment will  be  made,  immediately  after  registering  at 
the  hotel,  for  the  name  of  every  member  of  the  party 
(at  least  every  male) — age,  place  of  birth,  country, 
habitual  residence,  occupation,  last  previous  stopping- 
place,  and  the  number  of  the  room  to  be  occujjied ! 
All  this  to  be  communicated  to  the  police,  immedi- 
ately ;  and  it  really  does  seem  quite  the  equal  of  any 
inquisitiveness  displayed  even  among  the  sharpest 
Yankees  of  the  Eastern  States.  Nothing  is  gained  by 
swearing  over  the  espionage,  however ;  and  suspicion 
may  be  excited  by  any  reluctance,  w^hen  there  is  no 
ground  whatever:  "when  in  Rome,  do  as  Rome 
does,"  even  to  obeying  the  police  in  the  most  absurd 
of  their  requirements.  It  may  even  happen  that 
before  leaving  the  city  you  are  advantaged  by  the 
record,  in  the  recovery  of  something  lost  or  the  de- 
tection of  some  wrong  to  yourself 

As  to  taking  in  baggage,  at  the  ports  or  on  cross- 
ing the  frontiers  of  different  countries.  Very  large 
amounts- of  baggage  require  very  large  amounts  of 


EXTERIXG  FOREIGX  COUXTRIES.  79 

examination  by  the  various  custom-honse  authorities, 
unless  golden  spectacles  are  pjut  on  their  'eyes,  when 
they  generally  see  with  great  readiness  and  do  not 
always  tumble  out  the  bijouterie  as  Avell  as  the  dirty 
linen,  Fi'om  America,  not  many  things  likely  to  be 
carried  in  a  trunk  are  dutiable  at  the  European  ports, 
except  liquors,  perfumes,  cigars  and  tobacco.  Of  the 
first  two  there  is  no  occasion  to  carry  any  through  a 
foreign  custom-house ;  they  have  better  than  we,  at 
all  times.  As  to  cigars,  tastes  differ;  at  all  events 
there  is  not  much  to  be  gained,  either  in  cost  or  qual- 
ity, by  carrying  more  than  the  few  (of  which  the 
ofiicers  of  any  ship  will  advise  the  passenger)  allowed 
by  law  without  duty.  Tobacco  is  different,  how- 
ever: there  is  no  decent  tobacco  in  Europe,  except  as 
Americans  carry  it  over;  and  inveterate  tobacco- 
users  should  take  plenty,  and  either  prevent  its  quan- 
tity being  known,  by  the  use  of  those  golden  specta- 
cles^ or  pay  duty. on  the  overplus,  like  men  and  citi- 
zens of  that  great  nation  which  can  certainly  out- 
chew  and  out-expectorate  the  wide  world  ! 

In  passing  from  one  European  country  to  anotlier, 
whether  by  crossing  the  Channel  or  a  mere  frontier, 
there  are  constant  vexatious  stoppages.  But  they 
can  be  endured,  too,  pretty  easily,  if  the  rule  is  al- 
ways observed  to  have  the  baggage  ready  for  exam- 
ination ichenever  approaching  a  custom-station, — so 
that  if  it  is  wanted  no  time  will  be  wasted,  and  if  it 
is  not,  nothing  will  be  lost.  It  really  seems,  some- 
times, that  the  delays  occasioned  will  lose  the  con- 
necting trains,  but  such  things  never  occur.  Avoid 
having  anything  contraband ;  have  keys  ready  and 


80  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

instantly  unlock  when  ordered ;  make  no  attempts 
at  concealments  that  if  detected  would  cause  trouble ; 
and  so  may  the  terrible  douanlers  of  the  Continent 
be  passed  with  comparative  ease,  safety  and  celerity. 
Close  mouths,  as  to  imprudent  topics ;  observant 
eyes  and  ears,  as  to  everything  occumng ;  constant 
but  judicious  bribery,  believing  none  to  be  above 
the  temptation  ;  and  good  temper  under  all  circum- 
stances— these  are  the  four  rules  of  travel  in  foreign 
countries;  and  with  them,  and  advice  previously 
embodied,  there  can  be  no  excuse  for  detaining  the 
short-ti'ip  traveller  a  moment  longer  from  the  com- 
mencement of  his  sight-seeing  and  adventure. 


VIII. 

SHOET  TEIPS    IN    lEELAND. 

Assuming  that  advice  previously  given  will  be 
often  taken,  and  that  the  greater  proportion  of  short- 
trip  travellers,  on  their  first  voyage,  will  leave  the 
steamer  at  Queenstown,  on  the  Liverpool  route, — it 
will  be  proper  first  to  take  a  hurried  peep  at  Ireland, 
reminding  the  reader  that  the  commencement  is  at 
the  extreme  south,  working  northward,  and  that 
those  who  cross  from  Scotland  to  Belfast  or  other 
ports  in  the  north,  to  take  homeward  passage  from 
Queenstown,  need  only  to  reverse  the  paper  to  derive 
the  same  advantage.  Another  reminder  may  also 
be  given, — entering  upon  the  legitimate  business  of 
a  guide,  ashore — that  much  ground  is  to  be  gone 
over,  in  this  and  succeeding  papers,  and  that  conse- 
qiiently  the  glances  at  different  places  must  be  of 
the  briefest. 

QirEE5rsT0W]sr  to  cork  and  killakney. 

QuEEiSrsTOWN,  the  port  of  landing  from  the  steam- 
er, has  little  to  commend  it  to  the  attention  of  trav- 
ellers, except  the  fine  harbor  which  it  suj^plies  to 
Cork.  The  harbor  and  fortifications  are  well  de- 
serving the  view  they  are  certain  to  receive,  espe- 
cially from  those  who  there  first  set  foot  in  Ireland. 
The  town  lies  somewhat  stragglingly  at  the  west 


82  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

side  of  tlie  harbor,  climbing  a  side-bill.  Southward 
and  westward,  round  behind  the  town,  to  the  left, 
the  river  Lee  sweeps  away,  to  Cork,  some  ten  or 
twelve  miles  distant  by  it,  though  only  six  by  direct 
course  by  land. 

Three  modes  of  proceeding  from  Queenstown  to 
Cork  present  themseh'es.  The  First  enables  the 
traveller  to  make  acquaintance  with  that  oddest  and 
most  dashing  of  conveyances,  the  "jaunting-car," 
without  which  Ireland  could  not  possibly  exist,  just 
as  it  never  could  have  originated  elsewhere  than  in 
Ireland, — with  its  two  seats  lengthwise,  passengers 
back  to  back,  driver  sulky-mounted,  two  wheels 
and  one  horse,  and  general  arrangements  for  what 
one  writer  has  graphically  described  as  "  going  it  at 
a  gallop  and  everybody  holding  on."  A  very  pleas- 
ant ride  up  the  banks  of  the  Lee  may  be  thus  ob- 
tained ;  but  that  mode  of  transit  has  a  rival  in  the 
Second:  railway,  by  which  the  passenger  is  whisked 
up,  on  the  north  side  of  the  Lee,  in  a  few  minutes  ; 
and  that  by  the  Third:  steamboat  up  the  Lee,  de- 
cidedly the  pleasantest  of  all  in  fine  weather,  with 
the  capital  views  afforded  of  the  junction  of  the  Lee 
with  the  harbor;  the  small  villages  that  stud  the 
I)anks  ;  and  the  public  grounds  and  fortifications  on 
the  left,  and  lai'ger  shipping  of  the  port  on  the  right, 
approaching  the  city  itself.  These  little  iron  paddle- 
wheel  steamers  mn  frequently,  in  summer,  and  they 
often  carry  music,  making  the  run  more  pleasant 
and  less  tedious. 

CoEK,  built  on  both  sides  of  the  Lee,  and  span- 
ning it  with  nine  bridges,  is  one  of  the  handsomest 


IJ^  IRELAXD.  83 

cities  in  Ireland,  as  well  as  one  oftlie  largest — being- 
only  second  to  Dublin  in  size  and  to  Belfast  in  trade. 
It  is  also  second  to  Dublin  in  dirt  (no  liigli  praise)  ; 
and  many  of  the  best  streets  are  well  built  and  hap.d- 
some,  but  of  the  "  back-slums "  the  less  said  (and 
observed)  the  better.  To  see  the  town  hastily  but 
to  best  advantage,  an  open  jaunting-car  should  be 
taken,  if  the  weather  is  fine,  and  a  close  one  (another 
institution  of  Coi'k,  covered,  closed  in  front  and  open 
behind)  if  rain  falls  or  threatens.  The  driver,  in 
that  case  (there  as  elsewhere),  will  supply  the  best 
of  guide-books.  Several  of  the  churches  demand  at- 
tention— among  others  the  Cathedral,  St.  Patrick's, 
St.  Ann's,  and  the  very  old  Church  of  Shandon,  with 
its  sweet  bells  (the  chiming  of  which  should  be 
heard),  referred  to  by  Father  Prout  in  his 

"  Sweet  bells  of  Shandon 
That  sound  so  grand  on 

The  pleasant  waters  of  the  river  Lee." 

There  are  also  the  Mansion  House,  the  Royal  Cork 
Institution  (with  a  Museum  said  to  be  worth  visit- 
ing), some  of  the  Banks,  etc. ;  while  above  the  main 
body  of  bridges  the  banks  of  the  Lee  are  very  beau- 
tiful, and  one  public  walk  on  the  south  side,  the 
Mardyke,  is  very  pleasant,  handsomely  shaded  and 
attractive.  Half-an-hour's  call  at  the  Court-House 
will  show  the  dingy  assize-rooms  in  which  most  of 
the  Fenians  of  the  South  have  been  tried,  and  quite 
suffice  as  a  type  of  Irish  courts.  Cork  has  a  consid- 
erable number  of  manufactories,  in  woollen,  etc. ; 
and  no  small  amount  of  ship-building  is  carried  on 


84  SEORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

on  the  north  side  of  the  Lee,  below  the  bridges. 
Before  leaving  Cork,  one  or  two  excursions  must  be 
made,  especially  one  to 

Blaeney  Castle,  Lake  and  Groves.  These 
may  be  reached  in  a  pleasant  ride  of  five  or  six  miles, 
by  jaunting-car,  southwestward,  first  glimpses  of 
plenty  of  the  Irish  rural  cabins,  with  their  white- 
washed walls,  thatched  roofs,  turf-smoke  and  poverty, 
being  also  caught  on  the  way.  The  Castle  is  a  fine 
old  ruin,  with  the  donjon-keep  still  more  than  an 
hundred  feet  in  air,  much  better  presented  than  most 
ruins,  and  said  to  have  been  originally  the  home  of 
the  royal  M'Carthys.  The  original  "  Blarney  Stone  " 
hangs  from  the  vaulted  ceiling  of  one  of  the  cham- 
bers, and  only  fools  risk  their  necks  in  trying  to  kiss 
it,  especially  as  there  is  another  quite  as  "  real "  and 
powerful,  to  be  kissed  ("  for  a  consideration "),  on 
the  lawn  below.  The  Lake,  lying  near  the  Castle, 
is  very  small  and  very  pretty ;  and.  the  "  Groves  of 
Blarney  "  are  all  that  they  have  been  called  of  um- 
brageous beauty.  The  second  excursion  (optional) 
in  point  of  importance,  is  to 

Cloyne,  an  old  town,  now  in  ruins,  a  few  miles 
from  Cork,  east  of  Queen stown,  seaward,  with  a  fine 
view,  in  passing,  of  Roskellan  Castle,  the  splendid 
family  seat  of  the  O'Briens,  Earls  of  Inchiquin  and 
sometime  Marquises  of  Thomond,  rendered  doubly 
interesting  to  Americans  from  the  near  connection 
with  that  family  of  the  late  Fitz-Jaraes  O'Brien, 
poet  and  soldier,  who  fell  during  the  rebellion. 

Leaving  Cork  for  Killarney,  by  rail,  much  hand- 
some scenery  is  to  be  enjoyed,  with,  among  other 


m  IRELAND.  85 

views,  a  fine  one  of  the  Castle  and  Groves  of  Blarney 
at  some  distance  to  the  left ;  but  nothing  of  special 
interest  breaks  the  journey  until  the  arrival  at 

3Ialloic,  a  thriving  town,  at  two  hours'  distance, 
where  the  passenger  changes  cars  irom  the  train 
direct  for  Charleville  and  Dublin,  to  that  for  the  cross- 
road for  Killarney  and  Tralee, — and  where  he  hears 
the  old  song  of  the  "  Rakes  o'  Mallow  "  continually 
sounding  in  imagination.  There  are  some  manufac- 
tories at  Mallow,  and  much  of  Irish  rural  life  and 
character  may  be  observed  at  and  around  the  sta- 
tion ;  but  there  is  nothing  to  tempt  the  laying  over 
of  a  train,  when  the  reputation  of  the  Lakes  is 
calling. 

It  is  a  run  of  perhaps  two  hours  (often  made 
three  or  four,  by  the  miserable  railroad  delays)  from 
Mallow  to  Killarney  ;  and  tlic  ride  would  be  a 
tedious  one,  but  for  the  opportunities  of  enjoying 
the  bare,  desolate  scenery  of  the  Southwest,  study- 
ing the  cabins  squatted  under  the  edges  of  the  hills, 
seeing  plenty  of  peat-bogs  and  heaps  of  the  fuel 
piled  to  dry,  and  at  last  finding  the  beautiful  moun- 
tains of  Kerry  lifting  themselves  ahead  and  to  the 
left. 

Killarney  (Village)  is  prettily  situated,  a  mile 
from  the  north-east  point  of  the  Lower  Lake ;  has  a 
population  of  five  thousand,  principally  on  a  single 
long  street ;  is  picturesque  (as  are  many  of  the  blue- 
cloaked  peasant-girls)  and  dirty  (as  ditto).  The 
Nunnery,  in  the  midst  of  the  town  ;  the  Cathedral, 
to  the  north  ;  and  some  of  the  hotels,  supply  all  the 
features  worth  note,  though  no  visitor  to  the  town 


86  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

should  fail  to  ride  through  it  at  some  leisure.     Of 
course  the  attraction  of  the  visit  is  found  in 

The  Lakes  of  Killar?^ey,  three  in  number, 
called  the  Lower  (or  Lough  Leane),  Middle  (or  Muc- 
ross),  and  L^pper.  They  are  charmingly  situated,  at 
the  very  bases  of  the  fine  hills,  with  Macgillicuddy 
Reeks  and  Purple  Mountain  prominent  at  the  west- 
ern extremity ;  Tore  Mountain  and  the  Devil's  Punch- 
Bowl  j^rominent  objects  south  and  east ;  and  such  a 
variety  in  rock,  shade  and  winding  water  as  cannot 
well  be  matched  elsewhere  in  the  world.  They  are 
somewhat  small  and  "band-box-y"  to  an  American, 
and  are  (as  will  later  be  discoA^ered)  something  like, 
though  wilder  and  rougher,  the  English  Ljikes  of 
Cumberland,  with  a  distant  resemblance  to  Lake 
George  at  home.  In  some  features  they  are  un- 
equalled— in  the  bloom  of  the  broom  or  heather  sur- 
rounding them ;  the  size  and  beauty  of  the  arbutus 
groves  on  many  of  the  islands  ;  and  the  wonderful 
prevalence  of  detached  rocks  thrust  up  out  of  the 
water — especially  in  the  Lower  Lake.  As  is  well 
known,  too,  they  have  both  poetic  and  legendary 
charm  in  a  I'are  degree,  as  they  are  the  scene  of  all 
the  O'Donoghue  legends,  out  of  which  so  many  Irish 
stories  and  dramas  have  been  fonncd  ;  while  Moore 
has  immortalized  one  of  the  most  charming  portions 
of  the  Lower  Lake  in  his  "  Sweet  Innisfallen,"  and 
Lover  (appropriate  name)  clustered  round  them  the 
most  mischievous  of  memories  in 

" Kate  Kearney, 


Who  lives  on  the  banks  of  Killamey." 
Of  the  two-days'  sojourn  at  Killamey,  the  most 


ly  IRELAND.  87 

prudent  division  of  time  is  into  two  portions — one 
day  each  for  boat  and  jaunting-car.  In  the  day  by 
boat  (when  he  must  be  accompanied  by  a  bugler  and 
take  along  lunch)  he  will  pass  through  all  three  of 
the  Lakes,  besides  visiting  the  island  and  ruined  Ab- 
bey of  Innisfallen,  and  Ross  Island  and  Castle  (the 
last  of  Cromwell's  holds  in  Ireland)  on  the  Lower — 
calling  at  Glena  Cottage  (Lord  Kenmare's)  under 
Glena  Mountain,  passing  under  Brickeen  Bridge, 
going  through  the  Long  Range  (between  the  Lakes) 
and  the  Meeting  of  the  Waters,  and  hearing  the 
wonderful  bugle-echoes  of  Irish  melodies  under  the 
Eagle's  Nest.  Boats,  rowers  and  guides,  as  well  as 
jaunting-cars,  can  be  procured  at  any  one  of  half-a- 
dozen  excellent  hotels  ;  and  there  is  nothing  in  the 
way  of  legend  that  the  guide-bugler  by  boat,  or  the 
driver  by  car,  will  leave  imtold. 

On  the  second  day,  by  jaunting-car,  the  whole 
round  of  the  Lakes  may  again  be  made,  with  the 
Ruins  of  Aghadoe,  the  wild  Gap  of  Dunloe,  etc. ; 
while,  on  the  return,  there  will  be  an  opportunity  to 
visit  Tore  Waterfall,  a  beautifid  wild  cascade  under 
the  edge  of  Tore  Mountain,  to  observe  much  of  the 
scenery  made  immortal  in  the  "  Collegians"  (Gerald 
Griffin's  novel)  and  its  after-thought,  the  "  Colleen 
Bawn" — to  see  the  handsome  house  and  grounds  of 
Mucross,  with  possibly  the  village  of  the  same  name 
— and  to  spend  an  hour  at 

Mucross  Abbey,  one  of  the  very  finest  media3val 
ruins  in  Ireland,  standing  near  the  eastern  side  of 
Mucross  Lake  (Middle),  with  an  ivy-grown  square 
tower  of  Avonderftil  beauty ;    the  tombs   of  O'Don- 


88  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

ogliue,  McCarthy  More  and  "other  Kings  of  Miin- 
ster  yet  remaining  in  the  chancel ;  a  wonderful  old 
yew-tree  filling  up  the  whole  coiirt ;  old  cloisters  ;  ivy 
to  any  extent;  and  a  history  dating  back  to  1140. 

The  traveller  should  he  duly  advised  that  at  and 
around  Killarney,  "  Paddy,"  male  and  female,  may 
be  found  in  full  glory ;  that  the  district  is  magnifi- 
cently rebellious — very  many  of  the  Fenian  prison- 
ers and  convicts  of  1866-7  having  come  from  about 
Killarney  and  the  Gap  of  Dunloe ;  that  roguery  and 
beggary  equally  abound  (male  and  female  again);  and 
that  if  he  buys  all  the  curiosities  offered,  from  carved 
wood  to  potheen  whiskey,  he  will  have  no  money  left 
at  the  outset  and  will  need  a  ship  of  his  own  to 
freight  home  his  purchases  (not  including  the  whis- 
key, which  may  be  carried  internally). 

KILLARNEY   TO    AND   ABOUT   DUBLIN. 

Travellers  at  greater  leisure  would  be  likely,  after 
seeing  Killarney,  to  go  farther  south  and  west  to 
Bantry,  Kenmare  and  Dingle  Bays,  all  following  in 
succession  from  the  extreme  southwest  point  of  Ire- 
land, northward,  and  affording  very  fine  coast  sce- 
nery ;  then  by  the  Shannon  to  Limerick,  still  farther 
north,  and  the  finest  town  in  the  west ;  and  possibly 
yet  farther  north,  out  of  Kerry  and  across  Clare,  to 
Galway  Bay  and  Galway,  where  the  rough-riding 
description  of  Irishman  is  yet  said  to  exist  in  the 
greatest  perfection,  with  the  best  potheen  and  the 
most  jolly  recollections  of  the  novelist  Lever. 

But  the  short-trip  traveller  will  only  be  likelj'  to 
turn  back  on  his  road  so  far  as  to  return  by  rail  to 


m  IRELAND.  89 

Mallow,  and  there  changing  cars  again  take  the  train 
direct  by  Charleville,  Limerick  Junction  and  Port- 
arlington,  to  Dublin,  the  capital  and  chief  attraction. 
Very  much  of  interest,  to  lovers  of  character  and 
scenery,  will  be  found  on  the  way  up,  in  the  loungers 
at  the  stations,  in  some  of  the  way-passengers,  and 
in  the  glimpses  caught  of  rural  scenery,  turf-bogs, 
cabins,  ruins,  and  distant  mountains.  For  many 
miles,  some  two-thirds  of  the  way  up  from  Mallow, 
the  railway  runs  through  the  fiir-famed  Bog  of  Allen, 
in  and  o\qy  which  may  be  seen  every  variety  of  the 
turf-bog,  the  moor,  the  very  desert.  And  yet  farther 
on,  if  the  right  side  of  the  carriage  be  occupied, 
some  very  fine  views  will  be  caught  of  an  immense 
furze-dotted  upland,  once  famous  as  a  race-course,  in 
the  shape  of  the  Curragli  of  Kildare,  and  well  worthy 
of  a  visit,  now,  for  the  sake  of  the  large  number  of 
troops  continually  encamped  there  in  summer,  and 
the  "Wrens"  (human  of  a  certain  female  order)  said 
to  nest  there  like  ground-birds.  Only  an  hour's  ride 
beyond,  by  N"aas,  and  then, 

DuBLix,  the  capital  of  Ireland,  and  well  worthy 
of  a  visit  both  for  its  present  and  its  past.  It  lies  on 
both  sides  of  the  river  Liffey  (so  well  commemorated 
in  the  jolly  old  rhyme  as 

" The  Liffey, 

That  runs  down  by  Dublin's  swate  city  so  fine  "), 

some  ten  or  a  dozen  miles  from  the  splendid  break- 
watered  harbor  of  Kingstown  (Dublin  Bay),  of  which 
the  famous  Hill  of  Howth,  the  traditional  oath  of 
every  true  Paddy,  forms  the  bold  northern  defence 
accainst  the  Channel.     Dublin,  well  known  as  the 


90  SEORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

capital  of  Ireland  when  a  nation,  and  the  vice-regal 
seat  since  the  Union,  is  at  once  one  of  the  handsom- 
est and  dirtiest  of  cities,  with  very  many  fine  public 
buildings,  charming  public  grounds,  and  poor-quar- 
ters so  much  fouler  even  than  those  of  the  ordinary 
European  cities,  that  they  make  a  sort  of  celebrity  of 
themselves.  It  is  said  to  have  something  more  than 
a  quarter  of  a  million  of  inhabitants. 

To  the  short-trip  traveller,  of  course,  the  jaunting- 
car  will  come  into  requisition,  in  and  around  Dublin, 
quite  as  well  as  in  any  other  locality.  There  are  very 
lew  places  actually  demanding  internal  examination, 
though  several  would  repay  it ;  but  of  outside  \-iews 
there  are  an  extraordinary  number  worth  remember- 
ing. One  day  "  at  a  pinch,"  and  two  at  comparative 
leisure,  will  do  the  city  comfortably,  the  best  of 
guides  being  found,  as  elsewhere  in  Ireland,  in  the 
chatty,  smoking  driver  of  the  car. 

Of  public  buildings,  those  best  demanding  atten- 
tion are  the  Castle,  famous  in  both  liistory  and  I'o- 
mance ;  the  Bank  of  Ireland  (once  the  Parliament 
House) ;  Trinity  College,  from  which  so  much  of  fun 
and  true  learning  have  gone  out  to  the  world ;  Con- 
ciliation Hall,  where  O'Connell  made  his  great 
speeches,  and  on  the  steps  of  which  his  statue  still 
seems  to  be  hurling  defiance  at  the  Union  and  its 
supporters ;  the  Custom-House ;  Post-Office ;  the 
Four  Courts  (law  building) ;  the  Crystal  Palace ; 
and  some  of  the  churches,  with  St.  Patrick's  Cathe- 
dral far  the  most  interesting  of  them.  Some  hours 
should  be  spent  in  the  latter  fine  old  building  (re- 
stored), whatever  the  religion  of  the  visitoi', — as  it  is 


ly  IRELAXD.  91 

"within  it  that  all  the  Knights  of  St.  Patrick  are  (or 
used  to  be)  installed,  their  seats  and  banners  show- 
ing prominently ;  while  some  portions  of  tlie  edifice 
show  an  antiquity  of  seven  or  eight  hundred  years, 
and  the  tombs  and  monuments  of  Dean  Swift,  Cur- 
ran,  Archbishop  Whately  and  several  others,  lend 
it  a  profound  intei'est.  The  Catliedral  (Catholic)  is 
also  said  to  contain  many  interesting  montiments — 
among  others  that  of  Strongbow  (De  Valence,  Earl 
of  Pembroke),  the  first  English  invader  of  Ire- 
land. 

There  are  some  very  fine  bridges  over  the  Liifey ; 
some  splendid  monuments,  the  inevitable  Nelson 
leading  off  Avith  the  finest,  in  the  neighboi-hood 
of  the  Post-Office;  some  very  handsome  streets, 
among  the  pleasantest  of  them  Lower  Sackville  and 
Frederick  Streets  ;  -while  those  Avho  wish  to  find  the 
opposite  can  be  handsomely  accommodated  by  tak- 
ing a  short  drive  through  St.  Patrick's  Close,  Bull 
Alley,  and  a  few  of  the  other  "  back-slums  "  behind 
St.  Patrick's. 

Of  public  grounds,  within  the  city,  the  only  ones 
of  interest  are  Merrion  Square,  showing  all  around 
it  the  faded  gentility  of  what  was  once  the  "  rale 
ould  Oirish  arishtocracy " ;  and  Ste23hen's  Green, 
equally  well  known  as  a  place  of  meeting  and  one 
of  execution.     Without  the  town, 

Phenix  ParJc,  the  boast  of  evei-y  Dublincr,  is  well 
worthy  of  its  reputation,  from  its  extent;  tlie  shaded 
beauty  of  part  of  it ;  its  high  location  overlooking 
the  city  and  harbor;  the  droves  of  fine  cattle  that 
find  pasturage  there;  the  Vice-regal  Lodge,  Avith  its 


92  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

handsome  grounds,  on  the  northern  edge  ;  the  great 
parade-ground  (the  "  Fifteen  Acres  "),  etc. ;  while 

Glasneoin  Cemetery,  the  "  Greenwood,"  "  Mount 
Auhurn  "  and  "  Laurel  Hill  "  of  Dublin,  supplies  one 
of  the  finest  of  rides  to  the  gates  and  one  of  the 
sweetest  of  walks  within.  In  quiet  beauty  of  natu- 
ral scenery,  and  exquisite  taste  in  arrangement,  Glas- 
nevin  may  vie  with  any  other  cemetery  in  Europe ; 
and  in  the  wondrously-sweet  perfume  of  its  many 
lime-trees  will  be  found  another  marked  charm  in 
midsummer.  The  tomb  of  O'Counell  lies  in  a  taste- 
fully-bordered raised  circle  in  the  centre  ;  and  within 
the  grated  door  may  be  seen  the  cofiin,  every  day 
covered  with  fresh  flowers  by  reverent  hands — though 
the  intention  is  said  to  be,  soon  to  remove  the  body 
to  the  Tower  overlooking  the  cemetery  and  the  city, 
because  "  O'Connell  must  have  no  tomb  that  cannot 
be  seen  from  the  sea." 

A  leisure  evening  in  Dublin  may  be  well  and 
wisely  spent  at  the  Theatre  Royal,  where  the  acting 
is  generally  good  and  the  merriest  and  most  appre- 
ciative audiences  in  Euroj^e  are  said  to  be  found. 

Of  excursions  from  Dublin,  the  one  which  should 
be  most  surely  taken  if  time  permits,  is  to  the  wild 
scenery  of  the  River  Dargle,  a  ie\^  miles  southward 
of  the  city,  in  the  County  Wicklow — in  some  regards 
among  the  wildest  and  finest  on  the  "tight  little 
island." 

At  Dublin  the  very  brief  southern  Irish  tour  ter- 
minates, the  tourist  ninning  down  by  rail  the  few 
miles  from  Dublin  to  Kingstown,  and  thence  taking 
steamer  to  Holyhead  (Wales)  for  Liverpool  or  Lon- 


IN'  lEELAND.  93 

don.  '  With  either  of  the  longer  tours  already 
sketched,  in  view,  a  satisfactory  glimpse  can  be 
caught  of  the  north,  as  follows : 

DUBLIN  TO    BELFAST   AND   THE    GIANT's    CAUSEWAY. 

Leaving  Dublin  for  the  North,  the  route  will  be 
by  rail  direct  to  Belfast,  much  of  the  lower  part  of 
the  route  lying  near  the  sea,  and  the  whole  extent  of 
it  crossing  successively  the  Counties  Dublin,  Louth, 
Armagh  and  Down ;  while  of  places  of  interest  on 
the  way,  Drogheda,  with  the  crossing  of  the  Boyne 
("Boyne  "Water")  near  it,  and  its  historical  recollec- 
tions of  Cromwell  and  James  the  Second  ;  Dundalk, 
where  Edward  Bruce,  brother  of  Robert  the  Bruce, 
was  crowned  King  of  Ireland ;  Newry  and  Lisburn, 
will  be  found  the  principal. 

The  special  "  linen-district "  of  Ireland  is  reached 
in  thus  running  north,  and  while  scenery  roughens 
to  become  the  "Black  North,"  the  white-striped 
bleaching-greens  and  large  linen-factories  become  a 
new  feature  in  the  landscape,  all  the  way  from 
Drogheda  to  the  capital  of  North  Ireland, 

Belfast,  at  the  head  of  Belfast  Lough,  with 
something  like  an  eighth  of  a  million  inhabitants  ;  the 
most  extensive  linen-manufactories  in  the  world  (in 
and  around  it) ;  a  Linen  Hall,  Queen's  Bridge  and 
several  public  buildings  of  interest,  including  the^ 
Cathedral,  Post-Office,  etc. ;  an  extensive  coasting 
and  Channel  trade,  and  more  commercial  importance 
than  can  be  found  elsewhere  in  Ireland,  outside  of 
Dublin  and  Cork.  A  few  hours  of  leisure  will  be 
very  well  bestowed  in  visiting  the  Linen  Hall  (great 


94  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

bazaar  of  the  trade),  and  some  of  the  flax-mills  and 
weaving-shops,  the  number  of  which  seems  to  in- 
crease the  wonder  of  Jiam-Husti,  in  the  "Happy 
Man,"  that  so  small  a  bit  of  linen  as  Paddy  Murphy's 
shirt-bosom  can  make  a  man  so  blest ! 

From  Belfast,  north  for  the  Causeway,  the  best 
route  is  to  take  the  rail  by  Carrickfergus  to  the  little 
town  of  Lame,  at  the  sea-end  of  Lough  Larne,  where 
the  rail  ceases  and  the  long  journey  by  jaunting-car 
begins.  Mail  cars  (of  the  "jaunting"  pattern)  run 
thence,  by  various  connections,  all  the  way  to  the 
Causeway,  the  breaks  being  at  Cushendall  and  Bally- 
castle,  and  the  scenery  splendidly  compounded  of  the 
rough  coast  and  the  Korth  Channel  at  the  right  hand, 
and  the  mountains  of  Antrim  at  the  left ;  while  dirt 
and  beggary  seem  to  swarm  in  the  miserable  villages, 
even  worse,  if  possible,  than  at  the  south.  One  day 
to  one  and  a  half  (according  to  connections)  should 
be  consumed  between  Belfast  and 

The  Giant's  Causeway,  one  of  the  most  stu- 
pendous and  wonderful  of  Xature's  freaks,  lying  at 
the  extremity  of  the  County  Antrim  and  almost  at 
that  of  the  island,  nearly  in  a  northerly  line  with  and 
some  twenty  miles  distant  west  from  the  lowest  point 
of  the  Scottish  Mull  of  Cantire.  It  consists  of  nearly 
one-fifth  of  a  mile  (1,000  feet)  of  upright  basaltic  col- 
umns, stupendous  in  size,  varied  in  shape  (as  to  the 
'number  of  sides  of  each  crystal),  and  so  fitted  to 
each  other  as  no  hand  but  that  of  the  Divine  Archi- 
tect could  have  arranged  them.  They  should  be 
walked  over,  boated  round  (and  into  the  caves)  when 
the  weather  and  a  sea  smooth  enough  will  allow,  and 


AY  IRELAND.  95 

laid  up  in  memory  Avith  Xiagara,  the  Western  prair- 
ies, and  the  Alps, — whether  the  legend  is  or  is  not 
received,  that  the  Causeway  Avas  built  by  Finn  Mc- 
Coul,  the  Irish  giant  (original  Fenian  —  properly 
"Finnian"),  to  allow  a  Scotch  giant  to  come  over 
and  be  lathered  by  him  !  Such  things  may  be ;  for 
what  American  does  not  know  that  our  OAvn  Sandy 
Hook,  at  the  entrance  of  New  York  harbor,  was 
originated  by  one  of  our  giants,  Avalkiug  across  from 
Navesink  Highlands  to  Long  Island,  stopping  and 
pouring  out  the  sand  from  his  shoes  ? 

N".  B. — The  Giant's  Causeway  has  the  reputation 
of  drawing  more  shillings  from  unwilling  pockets,  in 
the  way  of  fees  to  guides,  for  curiosities,  and  in  other 
swindles,  than  any  other  place  in  the  world  except 
American  Niagara.  Once  for  all,  elsewhere  as  well 
as  here,  on  this  point  the  cheap-tourist  must  "  keep 
his  weather-eye  o^ien  : "  the  millionaire  or  the  fool 
may  scatter  iiioney  as  they  like. 

The  return  from  the  Causeway  should  not  be  made 
by  the  same  route  as  the  approach.  A  short  car-ride 
takes  the  traveller  to  Portrush,  whence  tlie  railw^ay 
carries  him  directly  back  to  Belfast  Avithin  three  to 
five  hours.  But  if  a  few  hours  extra  can  be  spared, 
it  is  very  well  bestowed  in  merely  running  doAvn 
from  Portrush  to  Coleraine  (Avhere  "  Kitty  of  Cole- 
raine  "  is  supposed  to  have  abode),  and  thence  by 
rail  to 

LoifDONDERRY  (or  Deny),  on  the  river  Foyle,  at 
the  head  of  Lough  Foyle,  where  a  very  handsome 
little  town  of  twenty  or  thirty  thousand  inhabitants 
may  be  seen,  remarkably  well  built,  lighted  and  paved, 


96  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

with  a  central  Diamond  Square  (palpable  contra- 
diction, in  terms,  to  any  one  who  does  not  re- 
member that  all  New  York  squares  are  triangles  ! ), 
charming  suburbs,  and  a  wonderful  historical  recollec- 
tion of  the  long  siege  which  it  stood  against  James 
IL's  forces  in  1689. 

From  Londonderry  there  are  two  routes  by  rail 
back  to  Belfast :  by  return  to  Coleraine  (much  the 
nearer) ;  or  taking  the  line  so  far  southward  towards 
Enniskillen  or  Omagh,  and  branching  then  eastward 
to  Portadown,  striking  the  road  from  Dublin  at  Lis- 
bm'n.  In  either  event  the  traveller  is  once  more  at 
Belfast ;  ready  to  take  steamer  to  Glasgow,  and  the 
more-or-less  brief  Scottish  tour. 

[For  those  Americans  who  take  Ireland  last  in- 
stead of  first,  of  coui"se  the  previous  hints  will  need 
to  be  precisely  reversed.  Landing  at  Belfast  from 
Glasgow,  the  run  will  be  up  to  the  Giant's  Cause- 
way and  back  to  Belfast ;  then  down  to  Dublin  ; 
thence  to  Mallow  and  Killarney  ;  returning  by  Mal- 
low and  changing  there  for  Cork  and  Queenstown 
and  the  horae-steamer. 

Leaving  out  the  Xorth,  in  the  yet  shorter  trips, 
and  landing  at  Dublin  (Kingstown)  from  Holyhead, 
the  course  will  be  to  MalloAV  and  Killarney  from 
Dublin  ;  then  back  by  Mallow  and  change  there  for 
Cork  and  Queenstown,  as  before.  For  time  neces- 
sary to  be  consumed  in  the  different  Irish  routes, 
see  paper  at  commencement,  on  "  Time  of  Trips."] 


IX.  SHORT  TRIPS  IN  SCOTLAND. 

There  are  two  directions  of  the  most  ordinary- 
progress,  in  Scotland,  just  as  tliere  are  two  principal 
land-approaches.  Those  who  reach  Edinburgh  first, 
take  more  or  less  of  the  Highlands  on  their  way  to 
Glasgow ;  and  vice  versa.  The  point  of  view  to  be 
followed,  in  the  present  paper,  is  based  on  the  as- 
sumption of  Glasgow  being  first  visited  :  of  course, 
in  the  alternative  case,  the  order  here  adopted  sim- 
ply needs  reversing. 

Assuming,  then,  that  the  tourist  has  reached  Glas- 
gow first,  whether  by  steamer  or  rail,  tlie  first  mat- 
ters of  interest  are  to  be  found 

IN"   AJfD    ABOUT    GLASGOW. 

Glasgow,  situated  on  the  Clyde,  is  second  in  im- 
portance of  the  cities  of  Scotland,  and  in  some  re- 
spects the  first.  It  has  a  population  of  between  three 
and  four  hundred  thousand  ;  is  busy  and  thriving  in 
every  detail  of  commei'ce  and  industry  ;  and  is  prob- 
ably a  little  more  like  New  York  than  any  other  city 
of  the  Eastern  World.  It,  in  connection  with  Gree- 
nock and  the  banks  of  the  Clyde  between  the  two 
places,  carries  on  an  immense  business  in  iron  ship- 
building, and  no  small  amount  of  interest  is  to  be 
found  in  visiting  the  great  yards,  with  their  foun- 
deries.  It  seems  legitimate,  by  the  way,  that  these 
"  Clyde-built  steamers "   should  supjjly  nearly  half 


98  3E0RT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

the  world,  as  they  do — as  the  first  steamer  ever  built 
in  Europe  is  said  to  have  been  launched  here  (in  1812), 
and  James  "Watt,  the  great  applier  of  steam-povver 
to  vessels,  was  born  here.  It  has  also  a  very  exten- 
sive shipping  and  coasting  trade,  as  is  well  known. 

Architecturally  and  in  public  grounds,  it  has  many 
beauties  and  much  historical  and  romantic  interest. 

The  Cathedral,  dating  back  to  the  12th  century, 
and  containing,  with  the  yard,  many  fine  monuments 
(among  others  that  of  John  Knox),  is  a  veiy  pi'opev 
boast  of  the  Glasgow  people ;  and  the  Royal  Ex- 
change commands  very  general  admiration.  It  has 
five  handsome  bridges  ci'ossing  the  Clyde,  and  splen- 
did quays  down  the  river  front ;  that  portion  of  the 
wide  diive  which  they  supply  being  known  as 

•  The  Broomielaw,  certainly  one  of  the  finest  river- 
side drives  in  Europe.  No  one  can  pretend  to  have 
seen  Glasgow  without  driving  down  it. 

Kelvin- Grove  Park,  the  great  public  ground  of 
Glasgow,  lies  on  the  Kelvin  Water,  a  small  stream 
running  into  the  Clyde  at  the  west  end  of  the  city, 
and  is  very  beautiful,  though  the  little  stream  itself, 
poisoned  by  the  mills  above  it,  is  foul  enough  for 
Cologne.     The  other  most  notable  public  ground  ia 

St.  George's  Square,  lying  in  the  centre  of  the 
town,  surrounded  by  the  principal  hotels  and  many 
public  buildings,  and  containing  monuments  to  Scott, 
Nelson,  etc.  Among  the  special  "  lions  "  of  Glasgow 
may  be  reckoned 

The  Salt  Market,  now  nothing  but  a  shabby 
quarter  adjoining  the  City  Prison  (between  the  col- 
umns of  which    Pritchard,  the  wife-murderer,  was 


I¥  SCOTLAI^D.  99 

hanged  in  1865),  but  immortalized  by  Scott  as  the 
residence  of  Baillie  Nicol  Jarvic,  in  "  Rob  Roy  " — 
many  other  quarters  of  tlie  town,  too,  being  sacred 
to  similar  memories,  real  and  romantic,  of  the  great 
freebooter  and  others  of  his  class  who  made  Glas- 
gow a  resort  from  its  proximity  to  the  Highlands, 

Glasgow  should  be  driven  through  and  around  in 
one  of  the  open  cabs  plentifully  supplied ;  and  the 
tourist  should  not  fail  to  be  taken  from  the  Salt 
Market  up  through  the  town  b}'  the  High  Street 
(where  the  worst  mobs  in  Europe  often  gather),  with 
a  view  of  the  dingy  but  celebrated  old  University, 
the  tumble-down  antique  (and  some  shockingly  dirty) 
houses,  and  many  other  objects  of  interest  which  the 
driver  may  always  be  depended  upon  to  point  out. 

With  even  one  day  to  spare  before  pushing  on  to 
the  Highlands,  one  excursion  from  Glasgow  should 
certainly  be  made,  one  day  being  occupied  in  that 
and  the  return. 

AYR   AND   THE    BURNS    NEIGIIBOEHOOD, 

Ayr  lies  some  forty  miles  southwest  of  Glasgow, 
on  the  North  Channel,  and  immediately  opposite  the 
Isle  of  Arran.  It  may  be  reached  by  rail  in  two 
hours,  after  passing,  only  a  few  miles  from  Glasgow, 
through 

Paisley,  a  thriving  town,  celebrated  for  its  manu- 
facture of  shawls  and  other  woollen,  cotton  and  silk 
fabrics ;  with  a  fine  old  Abbey  Church  (scarcely  worth 
breaking  journey  to  visit,  however)  ;  and  the  EUers- 
lie  Oak  in  sight  at  the  left,  under  which  Wallace  is 
said  to  have  hidden  from  the  pursuing  English. 


100  SEOET-TRIP   GUIDE. 

In  the  little  seaport  town  of  Ayr,  jj roper,  the 
most  interesting  object  is  to  be  found  in  the  two 
bridges,  an  old  and  a  comparatively  new  one,  im- 
mortalized by  Burns  in  the  poem  of  the  "  Twa 
Brigs."  On  what  is  called  the  Wallacetown  side  of 
the  river,  stands 

The  Wallace  Tower^  on  the  site  of  the  dungeon 
where  he  was  confined  ;  with  a  statue  of  the  hero  in 
front  and  the  clock  and  bells  of  the  old  dungeon 
at  the  top.  A  carriage  should  be  taken,  after  the 
local  surveys,  to  visit 

The  Burns  Cottage^  about  two  miles  from  Ayr — 
a  very  humble  house,  with  two  rooms  and  in  bad  re- 
pair, where  the  poet  was  born  in  1759.  Some  two 
miles  beyond  is 

Kirk  Alloioay^  the  haunted  church  made  memo- 
rable in  "  Tarn  o'  Shanter  " ;  and  in  the  immediate 
neighborhood  runs 

The  JDoon^  a  quiet  little  stream,  sacred  to  poetry 
and  song,  from  the  "  Banks  and  braes  o'  Bonny 
Doon,"  crossed  by  the  single-arched  stone  bridge 
where  Auld  Clootie  pulled  off  the  tail  of  Tarn  o' 
Shanter's  mare. 

The  Burns  Monument.,  near  the  banks  of  the 
Doon,  has  been  built  about  fifty  years,  is  a  handsome 
Corinthian-columned  structure  of  60  feet,  with  a 
cupola,  and  has  many  interesting  reminders  of  the 
poet  in  a  room  on  the  ground  floor — among  other 
things,  a  portrait,  the  Bible  which  he  gave  to  High- 
land Mary,  a  snufl:-box  from  the  wood  of  Alio  way 
Kirk,  etc.  The  scenery  of  the  Doon  is  worthy  of  its 
poetic  reputation ;  and  as  the  I'eturn  can  be  made  to 


IX  SCOTLAXD.  101 

Glasgow  the  same  night  (by  rail  from  Ayr),  the  day 
is  one  not  to  be  missed. 

GLASGOW    TO     EDINBURGH,    BY    THE    SHORTEE    ROUTE. 

The  shortest  route  from  Glasgow  to  Edinburgh, 
with  any  glance  at  the  Highlands,  may  be  made  in  a 
single  day,  though  two  would  be  more  satisfactory. 
Whether  taken  in  one  or  two  days,  however,  it  is 
one  of  the  most  charming  on  earth,  csj)ccially  in  fine 
weather,  which  cannot  always  be  calculated  upon. 

Leave  Glasgow  by  rail,  down  the  Clyde,  with 
nothing  of  special  interest  on  the  way,  until  passing, 
on  the  left  and  on  the  near  or  upper  bank  of  tlie 
Clyde, 

Dumbarton  Castle,  now  a  cluster  of  ruins  on  a 
round  hill  skirting  the  river,  but  famous  in  history 
and  once  held  in  high  estimation  as  a  fortress,  as 
well  as  being  the  spot  from  which  Mary  Queen  of 
Scots,  when  a  child,  sailed  away  to  France.  Xot  far 
beyond  Dumbarton,  the  disembarkation  is  made  from 
the  cars,  at  the  little  station  of 

Balloch,  at  the  south  end  of  Loch  Lomond,  where 
steamer  is  taken  up  the  Lake, — the  Lake  itself  and 
the  Scottish  Highlands,  with 

.Ben  Ziomond  crowning  the  prospect,  being  in  full 
view  thenceforth  and  the  real  charm  of  the  trip  be- 
gun. Loch  Lomond  is  strikingly  beautiful,  with 
many  reminders  of  the  American  Lakes  George  and 
Winnepesaukee,  especially  at  the  lower  end,  studded 
with  beautiful  islands  ;  while  it  has  a  double  interest 
in  Ben  Dhu,  Glen  Luss,  Ross  Dhu,  Bannochar,  Glen 
Fi'uin,  and  other  objects  which  will  readily  be  point- 


102  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

ed  out,  on  tlie  left,  referred  to  in  the  rowers'  song 
("Hail  to  the  Chief")  of  the  "Lady  of  the  Lake;*' 
and  Ben  Lomond,  on  the  right,  continues  to  attract 
the  closest  attention  by  its  crag-broken  peaks  of 
green. 

Landings  are  made  at  Luss,  on  the  left,  and  at 
Rowardrennan  on  the  light ;  and  at  Tarbet,  again  on 
the  left,  those  go  ashore  who  take  coach  for  Loch 
Long,  Inveraiy,  etc.  But  the  tourist  does  not  land 
until  he  catches  sight  of 

Ihversnaid — ^Fort  and  landing — the  latter  a  tri- 
fle, and  the  former  a  mere  apology  for  a  fortitication, 
built  for  defence  against  the  ^McGregors  (with  Rob 
Roy  at  theu'  head)  in  1713.  Invei-snaid  has  another 
interest,  in  the  fact  that  it  formed  the  "  lairdship  " 
of  Rob  Roy,  before  he  became  an  outlaw  and  a  free- 
booter. His  "  Prison,"  a  rocky  fastness  at  the  water's 
edge,  in  which  he  was  said  to  confine  his  captives,  is 
passed  lower  down,  at  the  foot  of  Ben  Lomond,  while 
his  "Cave"  lies  above  Inversnaid,  and  is  only  seen 
by  those  who  continue  upwai'd  to  the  head  of  the 
lake. 

At  Inversnaid  four-horsed  carriages  are  taken, 
across  the  beautiful  heather-bordered  strath  towards 
Loch  Katrine,  with  splendid  mountain  scenery  in 
every  direction.  Part  of  this  ride  lies  beside  the  lit- 
tle river  and  Loch  Arklett ;  and  at  a  certain  point 
the  spot  is  shown  where  not  many  years  ago  yet  re- 
mained the  cottage  of  Helen  McGregor.  All  this, 
between  the  two  lakes,  is  especially  the  "  Rob  Roy  " 
country,  and  alluded  to  in  the  novel  of  that  name. 

Loch   Katrine,  claimed  to   be   one  of  the  most 


AV  SCOTLAXD.  103 

beautiful  lakes  in  the  '\voi-kl,  and  certainly  lovely  in 
its  mountain  scenery,  is  reached  after  a  few  miles, 
the  carriages  being  left  and  another  steamer  taken, 
at 

Stronaclachar  (or  Coalbarns),  a  little  landing  at 
the  extreme  head  of  the  lake,  from  which  a  glorious 
view  can  be  caught  of  almost  its  entire  length  and  of 
the  historical  mountains  that  gird  it. 

The  "  Rob  Roy  country  "  has  been  changed  for 
that  of  the  "  Lady  of  the  Lake,"  on  leaving  the  strath 
and  i*eaching  Loch  Katrine ;  and  passing  down  the 
lake  on  the  steamer,  the  points  named  in  that  I'emark- 
able  poem  rapidly  present  themselves.  Of  these  one 
of  the  first  and  most  interesting  is 

Ellen's  Isle,  a  very  small  wooded  island  at  the 
left,  where  the  meeting  between  Fitz  James  and 
Douglas  is  supposed  to  have  taken  place,  and  where 
the  immortal  little  lady  was  seen  with  her  boat  and 
paddles,  A  little  farther  onward,  to  the  right,  shoots 
up  the  giant  mountain 

-Be7i  Venu,  ragged  and  ci'aggy  in  outline,  and  with 
what  has  been  designated  as  "the  sunshine  rippling 
down  the  green,  between  its  fretwork  of  bulging 
crags."     Ahead  shows  the  sharp,  pointed  summit  of 

I^en  A  ''an,  marking  the  pass  through  the  Trossachs, 
through  which  the  Knight  of  Snowdoun  made  his 
■way  towards  Stirling. 

The  landing  is  made,  all  too  soon,  at  a  little  cov- 
ered toy-wharf  at  the  foot  of  the  lake,  where  open 
carriages  are  again  taken,  for  the  ride  through  the 
Trossachs  to  Callandar.  The  scenery  is  now  among 
the  finest  in  Scotland,  and  so  continues  for  miles — 


104  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

wild,  wooded,  craggy,  mountainous.  A  halt  is  usu- 
ally made  for  lunch  at  the  pleasantly-situated  hotel 
of 

Ardcheanocrochan^  in  the  Trossachs  (literally 
"bristling  country"),  under  the  brow  of  Ben  A'an. 
Two  or  three  miles  away,  across  the  valley  and  Loch 
in  front  of  the  hotel,  lies 

TJie  Clachan  of  Aherfoil,  so  well  remembered  by 
all  readers  of  "Rob  Roy  ;."  and  those  who  lie  over 
for  a  day  at  Ardcheanocrochan  (as  many  do)  should 
make  the  short  excui'sion  to  the  little  Highland  ham- 
let of  Diana  Vernon  and  Captain  Galbraith. 

From  Ardcheanocrochan  the  tourist  pushes  on, 
still  by  carriage,  through  the  pass,  amid  splendid 
mountain  scenery,  much  of  it  reminding  of  that  at 
the  Franconia  Notch  of  the  White  Mountains.  Very 
soon  after  leaving,  Loch  Achray  appears  on  the  right ; 
and  then  the  Turk  Water  is  crossed,  by  the 

'"'•  Brigg  of  TurJc^^''  celebrated  in  the  "Lady  of 
the  Lake  "  as  the  spot  where 

"  When  the  Brigg  of  Turk  was  won, 
The  foremost  horseman  rode  alone." 

Some  of  the  very  finest  of  the  Highland  scenery 
is  here,  for  to  the  left,  shortly  afterwards,  are  seen 
the  tall  pines  of  wild  Glenfinlass,  back  of  the  heathery 
Craig  More  and  the  Glenfinlass  hills ;  then  comes 
Loch  Vennochar,  to  the  right,  with  beautiful 

Lanrick  Mead  ("  Glendrig  ")  on  its  border,  where 
the.  Clan  Alpine  always  gathered,  and  where  the 
summons  went  out  to  assemble,  in  the  poem.  Some 
very  pleasant    glimpses  of  Scottish  rural   life    are 


Zy  SCOTLAND.  105 

to  be  caught  on  the  -way  along  Locli  Vennochar ; 
and  near  the  southern  or  forther  end,  comes  a  jiretty 
fall  of  water,  made  useful  in  supplying  the  Glasgow 
Water- Works,  but  celebrated  as 

Coilantogle  Ford,  where  Fitz  James  and  Roder- 
ick Dhu  had  their  conflict. 

Ben  Lediy  another  of  the  Highland  giants,  comes 
into  vicAAT  here,  at  the  left ;  and  shortly  after  the  Avay 
lies  over  Callander  Bridge,  and  the  tourist  is  ready 
for  dinner  at 

Callandak,  a  little  old  town  Avith  a  street  about 
one  mile  long,  and  of  no  particular  interest.  Here 
the  carriages  are  abandoned  and  the  railway  is  taken 
for  Stirling.  Two  places  of  marked  poetical  interest 
are  passed  on  the  way,  as  the  road  passes  throngli  the 
village  of 

Dunhlane,  made  famous  by  the  old  song  of  "  Jes- 
sie, the  Flower  of  Dunblane,"  and  shortly  afterwards 
over  the 

Bridge  of  Allan,  made  equally  famous  by  the 
sweet  old  ballad  of  "  Allan  Water." 

Approaching  Stirling,  a  fine  view  is  caught,  on 
the  left,  of  the  unfinished 

Wallace  Monument,  on  the  Abbey  Craig,  a  tower 
which  will  be  very  imposing  if  ever  finished  ;  and 
then  come 

Stirling  and  Stirling  Castle,  the  former  a  very 
old,  uneven-streeted,  picturesque  town,  well  worth 
some  hours  of  rambling,  and  the  latter  a  very  high 
rock-throned  fortification  of  irregular  character,  said 
to  be  not  less  than  eight  or  nine  hundred  yeai-s  old, 
overlooking  the  river  and  vallev  of  the  Forth,  the 


106  SHORT- TRIP   GUIDE. 

Carse  of  Stirling  and  the  Battle-field  of  Bannockbuv]), 
so  famous  throughout  all  Scottish  history. 

The  view  from  Stirling  Castle  battlements  is 
wonderfully  fine,  covering  the  Highlands  at  the 
west,  the  Ochill  Hills  to  the  north  and  east,  and  the 
Campsie  Hills  to  the  south,  the  town  of  Stirling,  the 
ruins  of  Cambuskenneth  Abbey,  the  Abbey  Craig, 
Bridge  and  Water  of  Allan,  the  Carse,  Valley  of 
the  Forth,  etc. ;  and  by  man}^  it  is  considered 
almost  unequalled  in  Europe.  The  old  apartments 
within  the  Castle  are  well  Avorth  examination,  es- 
pecially 

TJie  '■'•Douglas  Room^''  where  James  11.  assas- 
sinated the  powerful  and  turbulent  Earl  of  Douglas, 
about  1440 ;  and  to  the  north  of  the  Castle  should 
be  visited  the 

'■^ Heading-Hill^^  where  many  of  the  executions 
of  old  used  to  take  place,  especially  those  of  the 
Duke  of  Albany,  Earl  of  Lennox,  Walter  and  Alex- 
der  Stuart,  etc.,  by  James  I.,  1424. 

Excursions  may  be  made  to  the 

Field  of  JBannocJcburn,  two  and  a  half  miles  south, 
where  the  Scottish  Bruce  defeated  the  English  Ed- 
ward H.,  30,000  against  100,000,  on  the  24th  June, 
1314,  establishing  again  the  Scottish  monarchy  and 
giving  ground  for  Burns's  ever-popular  "  Scots  wha 
hae  wi'  Wallace  bled  ! "  Many  points  of  local  in- 
terest, thereabouts,  will  be  explained  and  shown  by 
the  guides — among  others  the  Bore-Stone,  the  Bloody 
Folds  and  the  Gillies'  Hill,  all  connected  with  the 
battle.  A  profitable  hour  may  also  be  spent,  before 
leaving  Stirling,  in  visiting  the  ruins  of 


m  SCOTLAXD.  107 

CamhusJcenneth  Abbey,  near  the  town  ;  and,  if 
time  allows,  also 

Doime  Castle,  a  very  fine  old  remain,  not  far 
from  the  Bridge  of  Allan,  It  was  among  and  around 
this  scenery  that  Sir  Walter  Scott  spent  many  of 
his  early  days,  forming  his  taste  for  the  histoiical 
and  romantic. 

There  are  also  several  buildings  in  Stirling  proper, 
"wortliy  of  visit  and  notice  l)y  those  who  tarry  yet 
longer ;  among  others  the  Grey  Friars'  Church,  near 
the  Castle,  built  by  James  IV. ;  Argyle's  Lodging ; 
Mar's  Work,  etc. ;  but  these  are  all  secondary  in 
positive  importance,  to  those  who  have  but  a  limited. 
time  for  stay. 

The  run  from  Stirling  to  Edinburgli  may  be  made 
in  either  of  two  ways  :  by  rail,  requiring  a  couple 
of  hours,  or  by  boat,  occupying  about  tlirce,  and 
passing  down  the  River  Forth  to  the  Firth,  and 
landing  at  Leith  (port  of  Edinburgh),  with  excellent 
views  of  the  Firth  and  its  islands.  Inch  Keith,  etc., 
and  of  the  coast,  the  fishing-town  of  Newhaven 
(scene  of  Charles  Reade's  "Christie  Johnstone"), 
etc.  In  fine  weather,  the  latter  is  by  far  preferable. 
From  Leith,  if  proceeding  by  boat,  two  miles  by 
carriage  to  Edinburgh. 

GLASGOW    TO    EDIHTBUKGH — THE     LONGER    EOUTE,    BY 
OBAN   AND   INVERNESS. 

Those  who  are  pursuing  any  other  than  the  brief- 
est route  marked  out  in  the  present  volume,  may 
profitably  proceed  from  Glasgow  to  Edinburgh  by  a 
line  consuming  three  to  four  days  or  even  longer  in 
10 


108  SEORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

the  transit,  instead  of  one  or  two.  For  this,  the  fol- 
lowing  conveys  all  necessary  general  information  : 

Take  steamer  at  Glasgow,  down  the  Clyde,  by 
Greenock,  down  the  Firth  of  Clyde,  between  the 
island  of  Bute  and  the  main-land ;  then  through  the 
Kyles  of  Bute  into  Loch  Fine  and  up  Loch  Fine  to 
Loch  Gilp  (its  northwestern  extremity)  and  to  Loch- 
gilphead, the  termination  of  first  steamer's  route. 
From  Lochgilphead,  by  boat  on  the  Crinan  Canal 
(towed)  across  the  isthmus  (neck  of  the  Mull  of 
Cantire)  to  Crinan,  at  the  end  of  the  canal,  on  the 
eastern  side  of  Jura  Sound.  At  Crinan,  steamboat 
again  across  Jura  Sound  northwestward,  through  the 
archipelago  of  islands  formed  by  Luing,  Scanna, 
Sera,  etc.,  to 

Oban,  on  the  west  shore  of  the  main,  opposite 
the  island  of  Mull.  Much  of  the  scenery  through 
all  this  route  is  charming,  blending  the  marine  and 
the  mountainous  as  possibly  they  are  blended  in  no 
other  spot  on  the  globe. 

From  Oban,  which  is  nothing  except  from  its 
surroundings,  an  excursion  of  one  day  should  be 
made,  by  steamer,  across  the  Sound,  below  and  around 
the  south  coast  of  Mull,  to 

lona  (or  Icolmkill),  a  beautiful  little  island  lying 
a  little  northwest  of  the  extreme  southwest  point  of 
Mull,  displaying  some  of  the  most  lovely  of  the 
rugged  coast-characteristics  of  the  Western  Islands, 
and 

Fixgal's  Cave  [Staffa),  a  basaltic  columned 
natural  curiosity,  of  giant  size,  jutting  into  the  sea 
and  presenting  many  of  the  characteristics  of  the 


IN  SCOTLAND.  109 

Giant's  Causeway  (Ireland),  but  with  peculiar  fea- 
tures of  overhanging  roofs  and  arched  caves,  render- 
ing it  perhaps  even  more  interesting  than  its  rival. 
The  return  from  StafFa  and  lona  will  be  made  to 
Oban. 

From  Oban,  those  who  have  no  longer  time  at 
command,  can  take  the  Scottish  Grand  Junction  Rail- 
way, running  directly  east  across  the  head  of  Loch 
Awe  (the  Campbell  country)  to  Crianlarich,  a  few 
miles  north  of  the  head  of  Loch  Lomond.  Thence 
either  by  carriage  or  by  rail  to  the  head  of  Loch  Lo- 
mond, and  down  it  by  steamer  to  luversnaid,  where 
the  previously-marked-out  route  from  Glasgow  will 
be  taken,  leading  by  Loch  Katrine,  the  Trossachs, 
Stirling,  etc.,  to  Edinburgh. 

But  those  who  can  spare  yet  a  day  or  two  in  ad- 
dition, should  take,  at  Oban,  the  steamer  up  Loch 
Linnhe,  Loch  Lochy,  Loch  Ness,  etc.,  and  the  grand 
Caledonian  Canal  forming  a  connection  between 
them,  something  over  one  hundred  miles,  through 
the  most  magnificent  of  Scottish  lake  and  mountain 
scenery,  including  Ben  Nevis,  the  Grampians,  etc., 
with  one  of  the  noblest  works  of  modern  engineer 
ing  (in  the  canal  itself),  to 

Inverness,  a  handsome  and  thriving  town,  sup- 
plying the  metropolis  to  that  portion  of  North  Brit- 
ain, lying  at  the  head  of  Murray  Firth,  on  the  eastern 
coast  of  Scotland,  some  three-fourths  of  its  whole 
length  northward. 

From  Inverness  the  return  may  be  made  by  ca- 
nal ;  but  more  variety  is  found  by  taking  coach  from 
that  place,  southward  through  the  whole  of  the  High- 


110  SHORT-TEIP  GUIDE. 

lands,  over  splendid  roads  and  through  and  among 
the  mountains  that  have  been  passed  on  going  up, 
skirting  some  of  the  finest  of  the  Perthshire  scenery, 
to  the  head  of  Loch  Lomond,  where  boat  may  be 
taken  to  Inversnaid,  and  the  I'oute  pursued  by  Loch 
Katrine,  the  Trossachs,  Stirling,  etc.,  as  before  indi- 
cated. It  is  not  too  much  to  say  that  while  either 
of  the  previous  roixtes  affords  glimpses  of  some  of  the 
very  best  of  Scottish  scenery,  those  who  would  know 
Scotland  even  moderately  well  should  endeavor  to 
afford  time  and  means  for  making  the  whole  of  the 
last. 

AT   ASD   ABOUT   EDIKBURGH. 

Edinburgh,  the  capital  city  of  Scotland,  lying 
some  two  miles  from  the  south  side  of  the  Firth  of 
Forth  (at  Leith),  will  be  found  at  once  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  towns  in  Europe  in  location  and  buildings, 
and  one  of  the  most  interesting  in  the  historical, 
romantic  and  poetical  associations  with  which  it 
is  studded.  It  has  a  population  ranging  between 
150,000  and  175,000;  is  divided  into  two  parts,  the 
Old  and  New  Town,  by  a  deep  ravine  or  gulch,  once 
a  deformity,  but  now  spanned  by  beautiful  bridges 
and  overhung  by  charming  gardens  (the  ''  Prince's 
Street ").  It  has  three  points  of  principal  interest,  all 
elevations,  and  lying  nearly  equidistant  from  each 
other,  in  a  triangle  :  the  first  being  the  Calton  Hill, 
the  second  Arthur's  Seat,  and  the  third  the  Castle ; 
while  in  passing  through  and  looking  down  a  single 
street  in  the  Old  Town  (the  High  Street,  changing 
into  the  Canongate),  and  a  single  one  in  the  New 


m  SCOTLAND.  Ill 

Town  (Prince's  Street),  the  difference  between  mod- 
ernism and  antiquity  will  be  wonderfully  well  shown. 

The  at-all-hurried  traveller  should  "do"  Edin- 
burgh by  cab — an  open  one  if  the  weather  is  fine, 
and  a  close  one  in  the  opj)Osite  event ;  the  driver, 
here  as  elsewhere  in  Europe  {not  always  in  America), 
being  one  of  the  most  useful  of  guides. 

Calton  mil  may  Avell  be  first  visited,  with  its 
Nelson,  National,  and  other  monuments.  Observa- 
tory, fine  views  over  the  Firth  of  Forth,  etc. ;  and 
on  the  way  down  from  it  will  be  passed  tlie 

Burns  Monument^  a  beautiful  structure,  pillared 
and  Grecian,  with  winged  griffins  supporting  an 
hour-glass,  and  a  bust  of  the  poet ; 

The  Bridewell  and  Debtors'  Prison,  very  hand- 
some embattled  buildings — too  handsome  for  their 
use.  It  is  worthy  of  particular  note  that  on  the  spot 
where  the  prison  now  stands,  stood  the  old  "  Kirk  of 
Field,"  in  which  Darnley,  Queen  Mary's  husband, 
was  blown  up  and  killed  in  1567.  Passing  down  the 
North  Back  of  the  Canongate,  the  visitor  will  be  in 
a  moment  at  the 

Pala.ce  of  Holykood,  a  queer  but  handsome  old 
French  -  looking  chateau,  with  pointed  pepper-box 
turrets,  by  far  the  most  interesting  building  in  Scot- 
land, and  unexcelled  by  any  in  Europe. 

This  Palace  (or  "  Holyrood  House,"  as  it  is  oftener 
called)  is  said  to  have  been  founded  by  David  the 
First,  the  Crusader  (who  figures  in  Scott's  "  Talis- 
man"), about  1130  or  1140;  and  it  has  ever  since 
held  a  prominent  place  in  Scottish  history,  being  gen- 
erally the  residence  of  the  royal  family  while  there 


112  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

was  one  to  reign,  and  especially  sacred  to  the  for- 
tunes and  misfortunes  of  Mary  Stuart. 

The  gateway  of  Holyrood  is  handsome,  and  note- 
worthy from  its  still  bearing  the  arms  of  Queen  Mary. 
Opposite  to  it  is  a  very  handsome  fountain,  erected 
by  the  late  Prince  Consort  (Prince  Albert)  ;  and 
across  the  Court-yard  is  an  humble  building,  much 
observed,  said  to  have  been  Queen  Mary's  Bath. 

Within  there  are  state  apartments  for  the  present 
royal  family  when  visiting  Holyrood,  but  they  are 
of  no  consequence  after  (or  before)  seeing  the  corre- 
sponding apartments  at  Windsor  Castle.  The  rooms 
especially  commanding  attention  are 

The  Picture  Gallery,  a  very  long  low-ceilinged 
chamber,  filled  with  royal  portraits  (ugly  enough, 
most  of  them)  of  all  ages,  but  showing  a  much  great- 
er attraction  in  having  once  been  the  great  Hall  of 
Holyrood,  and  the  spot  where  Charles  Edward 
Stuart,  the  Pretender,  when  holding  Edinburgh  in 
1745,  held  the  "Hunters'  Balls,"  one  of  which  is 
made  so  notable  in  the  pages  of  "  Waverley."  Among 
the  portraits  best  worth  observing  here,  however, 
are  those  of  Robert  Bruce  (1306) ;  David  the  First 
(1124) ;  James  the  Fourth  (killed  at  Flodden  Field, 
1513);  James  the  Fifth  (the  "Fitz-James"  of  the 
"  Lady  of  the  Lake,"  and  father  of  Queen  Mary)  ; 
Charles  the  First ;  Duncan  (murdered  by  Shak- 
speare's  Macbeth) ;  Macbeth  himself;  and  Malcolm 
(Malcolm  Canmore)  who  succeeded  the  kingly  mur- 
derer. 

Lord  Darnley's  Rooms  come  next  in  order  of 
showing,  with  pictures  and  tapestry  ;  then 


ly  SCOTLAND.  113 

The  Staircase  is  seen — that  narrow  staircase  up 
■which  the  assassins  crept  to  murder  David  Rizzio. 
It  is  on  the  floor  above  that  the  two  most  interest- 
ing rooms  in  Ilolyrood  ai"e  to  be  found : 

Queen  Mary's  Audience-Room^  where  that  un- 
fortunate queen  gave  her  audiences  and  was  lectured 
by  John  Knox.  On  the  magnificent  canopied  bed, 
with  its  rotting  velvet,  still  standing  here,  Charles 
the  First  slept  while  at  Holjn-ood  ;  the  Pretender,  in 
1745,  and  the  Duke  of  Cumberland  after  CuUoden. 
The  next  room  is  still  more  interesting  and  mournful — 

Queen  Mary^s  Chainher,  where  slie  slejot ;  the  room 
panelled  in  ceiling  and  with  tapestried  walls;  and 
the  bed  still  standing  as  she  left  it,  rotting,  now, 
canopy  and  covering ;  while  several  other  remem- 
brances of  her — table,  work-box  witli  Avork,  etc. — 
fill  up  the  room,  one  of  the  most  sadly  attractive  on 
earth.     Close  adjoining  is 

The  Supper  Room,  where  Rizzio  was  stabbed 
while  clinging  to  the  very  skirts  of  the  Queen  ;  and 
just  beyond  is 

The  Ineffaceable  Blood,  the  spot  at  the  stair-head 
where  Rizzio  was  dragged  to  die,  and  where  a  large 
dull  red  stain  appears,  which  those  who  have  "  faith  " 
enough  may  believe  has  lingered,  spite  of  fading  and 
scrubbing,  for  three  hundred  years !  Adjoining 
Holyrood  House  are  the  ruins  of 

Holyrood  Abbey,  of  which  the  roofless  walls  re- 
main, with  very  handsome  Gothic  gateway  and  win- 
dows, old  tombs  in  the  pavement,  and  recollections 
of  the  altar  where  Queen  Mary  was  married  to 
Darnlev. 


114  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

Away  from  Holyrood  the  drive  should  be  re- 
sumed, up  the  "  Queen's  Drive  "  and  around 

Arthur's  Seat^  the  high  hill  overlooking  Edin- 
burgh, with  a  collar  or  ruff  of  rocks  under  the  brow, 
called  Salisbury  Crags.  Some  fine  views  are  caught 
in  skirting  the  hill ;  and  one  of  the  noblest  in  Europe 
is  attained  on  leaving  the  carriage  and  climbing  to 
the  rocky  top,  whence  Edinburgh,  the  Lothians,  the 
distant  Highlands,  the  Frith,  etc.,  are  all  spread  be- 
fore the  eye.  Coming  round  the  hill  toward  the 
town,  excellent  views  are  caught  of 

Jeanie  Deans' s  Cottage^  the  Wall  of  DumbiediJces, 
and  MuschaCs  Cairn  (near  Salisbury  Crags),  all  im- 
mortalized in  Scott's  "  Heart  of  Mid-Lothian." 

Many  interesting  objects  present  themselves  in 
driving  from  the  foot  of  Arthur's  Seat,  up  the  Canon- 
gate,  the  High  Street,  the  Lawn  Market  and  Castle 
Hill,  to  the  Castle.  The  very  tall  old  houses  (some 
of  them  twelve  stories !) ;  the  narrow  alleys,  or 
"  Wynds  " ;  some  of  the  churches  (among  others  the 
Tron  Church,  in  which  may  be  seen  the  altar  at  which 
the  real  and  actual  Annie  Laurie  was  married) — Dr. 
Guthrie's,  St.  Giles  (with  its  splendid  spire),  the  As- 
sembly Hall,  etc.) ;  the  old 

Souse  of  John  Knox;  Argyle's  Balcony;  the 
Tolbooth  (prison) ;  the  old  Parliament  House ;  and 
many  other  objects  of  interest  stud  the  drive,  until 

Edinburgh  Castle  is  reached,  rock-throned,  com- 
manding and  picturesque,  with  a  narrow  and  wind- 
ing entrance,  odd  old  chambers,  the 

Birth-Boom,  where  Queen  Mary  bore  James  VL ; 
the 


IX  SCOTLAND.  115 

Megalia-Boom,  -where  the  regalia  of  Scotland  is 
preserved  and  shown  (by  order  obtained  at  the  Coun- 
cil Chambers,  High  Street,  every  day  between  12  and 
3),  with  an  antiquity  dating  back  beyond  record, 
"while  it  has  tigured  in  nearly  every  phase  and  period 
of  Scottish  history.  Principal  among  the  incidents 
connected  with  it,  meanwhile,  Avill  be  remembered 
its  capture  from  the  English  by  the  Earl  of  Moray 
(by  escalade  of  the  rock,  as  Quebec  was  taken  by 
"Wolfe)  in  131 3, — and  its  long  defence  for  Queen  Mary 
by  Kircaldy  of  Grange,  in  loTS.  Among  the  nota- 
ble curiosities  connected  with  the  Castle,  is 

■  Mons  Meg,  an  immense  old  cannon  (till  the  days 
of  our  late  war),  founded  in  France,  known  to  have 
been  used  at  the  siege  of  Norham  Castle  in  1514, 
and  burst  in  firing  a  salute  to  James  Duke  of  York 
(James  II.)  in  1682 — perhaps  as  a  warning  of  the 
blow-up  that  was  coming  to  hhn  ! 

Among  the  other  objects  which  should  certainly 
be  seen  at  Edinburgh,  is  the 

Scott  Monument,  on  Prince's  Street,  a  Gothic 
structure  of  more  than  two  hundred  feet  in  height, 
with  a  magnificent  colossal  statue  of  Sir  Walter,  by 
Steel,  shrined  within,  many  emblematic  figures,  an 
inscription  by  Jeffrey,  and  altogether  one  of  the 
finest  monumental  works  of  the  age. 

George  Heriot's  Hospital  (made  memorable  by 
Scott,  in  the  "  Fortunes  of  Nigel ") ;  Scott's  old 
residence ;  the  Greyfriars'  Church  and  Chuichyard ; 
the  Antiquarian  Museum  ;  George's  Square  ;  Brunts- 
field  Links  (meadows) ;  the  Edinburgh  Cemetery  ; 
Leith,  with  its  magnificent  Granton  Pier,  and  Leith 


1J6  SEORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

Walk  leading  down  to  it — these,  and  fifty  other  ob- 
jects of  interest,  present  themselves  to  longer  tarri- 
ers  in  the  fine  old  town,  though  hasty  visitors  will 
scarcely  find  time  for  them. 

An  evening  may  generally  be  spent  very  pleas- 
antly at  the  Theatre  Royal,  which  supplies  the  lead- 
ing spectacular  entertainment  of  the  town;  and 
Edinburgh  is  somewliat  noted  for  its  literary  re- 
unions and  entertainments. 

One  excursion  should  certainly  be  made,  on  a 
Wednesday  or  a  Saturday  if  possible,  either  by  cab, 
or  by  the  Peebles  railway,  to 

liossli/n,  ITawthorndeii,  and  Dalkeith  JPalace 
(seat  of  the  Duke  of  Buccleugh).  Rosslyn  Chapel, 
without  and  within,  is  a  marvel  of  laborious  beauty, 
besides  shoAving  an  antiquity  dating  back  to  1446. 
Some  of  the  clustered  and  spiral  columns  in  the  in- 
terior are  held  to  be  matchless,  especially  the  "  Pren- 
tice's Pillar,"  of  which  the  guide  will  very  readily 
tell  a  tough  legend.  The  ruins  of  Rosslyn  Castle 
stand  by  the  Esk  side,  and  are  very  picturesque — be- 
lieved to  date  back  to  1100  or  1200,  and  certainly 
the  old  family  seat  of  the  St.  Clairs,  Earls  of  Caith- 
ness and  Oi'kney. 

Hawthornden  is  a  fine  old  mansion,  once  the 
residence  of  the  poet  Drummond  ("  Drummond  of 
Hawthornden  "),  with  subterranean  caverns  beneath, 
exciting  much  interest. 

Dalkeith  Palace  is  a  large  square  structure,  sur- 
rounded with  an  extensive  park,  with  great  antiquity 
and  an  intimate  connection  with  the  fortunes  of  the 
Grahams  and  the  Douglases,  from  the  latter  of  whom 


ly  SCOTLAND.  117 

it  came  to  the  family  of  Buccleugli.  Anne,  Duchess 
of  Buccleugli  and  Monmouth,  lived  here  after  the 
execution  of  her  husband  for  the  "  Monmouth  Rebel- 
lion ; "  and  long  before,  Fi'oissart,  the  French  chron- 
icler, is  said  to  have  here  visited  the  Earl  of  Douglas. 

Other  pleasant  excursions  may  be  made,  if  time 
allows,  to  Newbattle  Abbey,  Dalhousie  Castle, 
Craigmillar  Castle  (ruins  once  occupied  by  James 
V.  and  Queen  Mary),  etc. ;  and  yet  a  little  additional 
time,  will  allow  of  taking  the  Edinburgh  and  Ber- 
wick railway,  to  Melrose  station,  whence  may  be 
visited 

Abbotsford,  on  Tweed-side,  the  splendid  bai-o- 
nial  residence  of  Sir  Walter  Scott,  with  many  inter- 
esting memorials  remaining  of  that  great  poet  and 
romj^ncer.  .  For  this,  carriage  should  be  taken  at  the 
station,  for  the  drive  of  three  miles  and  retui-n. 
Very  near  the  station  lies 

Melrose  Abbey,  founded  by  David  I.,  in  the  twelfth 
century,  and  considered  one  of  the  finest  Gothic  re- 
mains-in  Europe,  while  it  is  full  of  reminders  of  the 
numbers  of  the  Scottish  Kings,  and  the  heart  of 
Robert  Bruce,  buried  here,  as  well  as  doubly  im- 
mortalized by  Scott  in  his  exquisite 

"  If  thou  wouldst  view  fair  Melrose  aright, 
Visit  it  by  the  pale  moonlight,"  etc. 

Some  three  or  four  miles  in  the  opposite  direction 
lies 

Dryburgh  Abbey,  only  less  beautiful  as  a  ruin, 
and  containing  the  tombs  of  Scott,  his  wife  and  eld- 
est son,  besides  kingly  memorials.  Thence  to  Ber- 
wick and  by  Great  Northern  road  to  London. 


X. 

SHORT  TEIPS  IN  ENGLAND. 

The  points  of  interest  presented,  in  England,  are 
so  many  and  varied  that  only  a  few  of  them,  though 
the  most  interesting,  can  be  culled  by  the  short-trip 
traveller,  who  yet  wishes  to  see  other  countries  and 
does  not  go  beyond  the  extreme  four  months  for  all. 
The  points  of  approach,  too,  will  necessarily  be  va- 
ried, as  before  indicated,  in  trips  of  different  length 
between  the  two  extremes  of  one-and-three-quarters 
and  four ;  and  it  is  again  necessary  to  refer  to  the 
second  pajier  in  the  present  volume,  "  Time  of  Trips," 
for  the  order  in  which  it  will  be  most  convenient 
to  visit  them,  as  one  or  the  other  arrangement  is 
adopted. 

The  shortest  of  the  short  trips  contemplated 
gives  us  only,  in  England, 

LIVERPOOL   AND    CHESTER,   TO   LONDOX, 

Liverpool,  lying  in  South  Lancashire,  on  the 
north  side  of  the  river  Mersey,  is  the  largest  seaport 
on  the  globe,  the  trade  of  a  whole  world  literally 
concentrating  here ;  and  it  is  as  a  seaport,  with  its 
magnificent  docks  and  the  variety  of  shipping  passing 
in  and  out  from  them,  that  its  predominating  interest 
is  to  be  found. 

The  city  itself  is  large,  populous,  and  many  por- 


AV  EITGLA^^D.  119 

tions,of  it  (especially  in  the  suburbs)  notably  hand- 
some. Tlierc  are  few  public  buildings  worthy  of 
note,  however.  St.  George's  Hall,  standing  at  the 
apex  of  the  hill  on  Avhich  the  town  rises  from  the 
Mersey,  is  one  of  the  noblest  buildings  in  Gi'eat 
Britain,  and  worthy  of  close  attention,  Avithout  and 
within.  After  this,  the  new  Exchange,  the  Assize 
Courts,  the  Town  Hall  and  Custom-House,  are  the 
most  notable ;  though  to  commercial  visitors  the 
heavy  and  ponderous  mercantile  buildings  on  the 
lower  streets  near  the  river  may  be  quite  as  interest- 
ing. There  are  a  few  monuments  worth  notice — es- 
pecially the  recently-erected  equestrian  statue  of 
the  Prince  Consort,  in  front  of  St.  George's  Hall ; 
that  of  Nelson,  by  the  Exchange  ;  that  of  George 
in.,  at  London  Road,  etc.  The  principal  cemetery 
is  St.  James's,  very  tasteful  and  with  a  handsome 
statue  of  Ml-.  Huskisson,  the  great  commercial  found- 
er. But  far  beyond  any  mere  buihlings,  at  Liver- 
pool, in  interest,  are  the  famous 

Liverpool  Docks,  the  most  costly  and  extensive 
in  the  world,  some  six  miles  in  extent,  on  the  north 
or  city  side  of  the  Mersey,  and  constructed  at  a  cost 
of  £17,000,000  to  £20,000,000— equal  to  $85,000,000 
to  0100,000,000.  They  are,  commencing  at  the  west 
or  seaward  end  of  the  line,  the  Canada,  Huskisson, 
Sandon  (graving  docks),  Bramley-Moor,  Nelson, 
Prince's  (at  the  centre  of  the  city),  St.  Geoi-ge's, 
Salthouse,  Queen's,  King's  and  Brunswick;  while 
across  the  river,  at  Birkenhead,  there  are  some  (in- 
cluding Laird's  building-docks)  of  quite  equal  interest 

and  magnificence. 
11 


120  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

The  Sandon  Docks  are  immense  basins,  like  those 
in  the  Navy  Yards  at  Brooklyn  and  Charlestown, 
arranged  for  the  floating  in  of  vessels  for  repair, 
closing  of  gates,  and  pumping  out  until  the  hulls  are 
left  dry-  for  the  workmen.  The  others,  or  commer- 
cial docks,  are  rendered  necessary  by  the  immense 
height  and  depth  to  which  the  tides  rise  and  fall 
(eighteen  to  thirty  feet,  against  our  New  York  five 
to  eight) ;  and  they  act  upon  the  exact  reverse  of 
the  Sandon  principle — upon  exactly  the  same  prin- 
ciple, in  fact,  as  that  of  "  locking "  on  our  great 
canals. 

These  great  commercial  docks,  constructed  of 
Scotch  granite  and  iron,  are,  indeed,  purely  and 
simply  immense  canal  locks,  with  swing-gates,  into 
which  vessels  are  taken  at  high  tide  and  the.  gates 
closed  so  as  to  retain  the  water  within  and  keep 
them  afloat  and  at  the  proper  height  for  convenient 
receiving  and  discharging.  The  machinery  for  mov- 
ing the  gates  is  only  less  massive  than  the  docks, 
partly  hand  and  jDartly  hydraulic  power.  Except  at 
periods  when  repairs  may  be  demanded,  the  water 
in  the  docks  seems  never  to  be  allowed  to  run  down ; 
and  to  secure  this  end  all  entrances  and  departures 
of  vessels  are  made  somewhere  within  about  two 
hours  of  high  tide,  the  gates  never  being  allowed  to 
open  otherwise  than  during  that  limited  space  at  and 
near  high  water. 

It  is  at  and  around  the  Liverpool  docks,  too,  that 
the  best  idea  can  be  formed  of  the  immense  extent 
of  the  commerce  of  the  port,  from  the  vessels  of  all 
nations  lying  in  dock — of  the  paltriness  of  English 


m  ENGLAND.  121 

riverrboats,  tlie  meanness  of  Englisli  feny-systems, 
etc.,  while  in  going  to  and  from  them  some  idea  may- 
be formed,  along  miles  of  "  gin  and  spirit  stores," 
how  England  guzzles,  even  worse,  if  possible,  than 
America. 

The  Liverpool  cab-system  is  very  like  that  of 
London — cheap  and  excellent.  AYith  the  use  of 
these  vehicles  the  sight-seeing  may  be  quickly  and 
cheaply  dispatched ;  from  the  docks  to  the  splendid 
railway-stations,  there  are  really  few  public  buildings 
worth  internal  view. 

There  are  some  highly  interesting  rides,  a  i'ew 
miles  into  the  suburbs,  to  be  enjoyed  by  those  who 
have  abundance  of  time ;  but  these  are  scarcely  to  be 
taken  by  the  short-trip  traveller,  who  can  iind  their 
equivalent  elsewhei'e  and  with  less  delay.  There  are 
now  two  excellent  theatres,  the  Prince  of  Wales's 
and  Royal  Alexandra,  at  either  of  which  an  evening 
may  be  well  spent,  especially  as  almost  always  dur- 
ing summer  they  are  occupied  by  London  companies 
turning  the  metropolitan  vacation  to  profit. 

There  is  one  excursion,  from  Liverpool,  that  must 
be  made,  even  by  the  most  hurried — that  by  rail, 
with  half  an  hour's  ride,  across  the  beautiful  rural 
scenery  of  Cheshire  (southward  of  the  Mersey)  to 

Chester,  on  the  little  river  Dee,  one  of  the  old- 
est cities  in  England,  and  on  some  accounts  among 
the  most  interesting.  It  has  figured  in  history  from 
and  before  the  time  of  the  Romans,  some  of  whose 
mosaic  pavements  are  yet  existing ;  while  the  walls 
surrounding  the  town  are  known  to  be  so  old  as  to 
have  been  repaired  and  extended  in  a.  d.  '73  !     Tiie 


122  SEORT-TSIP  GUIDE. 

fine  Welsh  mountains  are  in  full  view  from  it,  and 
they  supply  a  reminder  that  it  was  the  fortified  town 
so  long  held  by  the  De  Lacys,  "  Constables  of  Ches- 
ter," who  with  its  aid  beat  back  the  wild  "Welsh  bar- 
barians making  incursions  across  the  marches. 

The  Old  Walls  are  first  among  the  curiosities  of 
Chester — with  the  walks  they  supply  on  the  broad 
top  and  the  towers  that  stud  them  at  various  points. 
The  most  interesting  of  these  latter  is  King  Charles's 
or  the  Phoenix  Tower,  on  the  top  of  which  Charles 
the  First  stood  to  see  his  last  army  defeated  on  Row- 
ton  Moor.  In  this  tower  there  is  a  small  but  very 
interesting  museum  of  antiquities,  including  the  Cas- 
tellan. 

The  CathedrUl  comes  next — a  fine  old  Gothio 
structure  of  700  or  800  years  in  age.  It  is  interest- 
ing, throughout — the  great  Chapel,  the  Crypt  and 
Chapter-house ;  and  there  is  an  especial  interest  in 
the  latter,  in  two  flags  hung  over  the  doors,  carried 
by  the  Cheshire  Regiment  (22cl)  up  Bunker  Hill  in 
our  Revolution,  and  by  Wolfe  at  the  taking  of  Que- 
bec. 

The  Old  Houses  of  Chester  follow  close  after  the 
Cathedral  in  interest.  Their  arcaded  first-stories 
give  the  streets  a  strange  appearance,  apart  from  the 
upper  stories  hanging  out  beyond  the  lower ;  and  in 
two  of  them — known  as  the  Old  Derby  Palace  and 
God's  Providence  House — are  to  be  found  some  of 
the  finest  timber-and-plaster  work  in  Europe.  There 
is  an  old  Roman  Bath  on  Bridge  Street,  well  worth 
attention  ;  and  as  much  may  be  said  of  the  four  old 
Gates  (arched  gateways),  giving  admission   within 


m  EN'GLAyn.  123 

the  walls.  The  Castle  is  better  worth  visiting  on 
account  of  the  old  one  which  stood  on  its  site,  than 
for  any  historical  interest  that  itself  possesses.  If 
time  allows,  a  visit  should  be  j^aid  to 

Eaton  Hall,  in  the  immediate  neighborhood,  the 
splendid  seat  of  the  Marquis  of  Westminster  (the 
richest  nobleman  in  England),  and  one  of  the  hand- 
somest residences  in  the  kingdom. 

For  a  day,  or  half-a-day,  at  Chester,  a  cab  should 
be  taken  (easily  found  near  the  railway  station) ;  and 
the  local  guide-book  should  be  bought  (cost  one  shil- 
ling) there  as  elsewhere — more  for  after  reading  than 
use  on  the  spot,  where  the  driver-guide  is  usually 
worth  twenty  books. 

The  run  from  Chester  to  London  may  be  made 
with  or  without  returning  to  Liverjjool.  Fi"om  Liv- 
erpool, the  direct  line  of  the  London  and  North- 
western road  is  taken,  across  Cheshire,  Staffordshire^ 
"Warwickshire,  etc.,  and  by  Crewe,  Stafford  and  Rug- 
by; and  from  Chester  a  branch  of  the  same  road 
may  be  taken,  joining  the  main  line  Avilhin  a  few 
miles,  at  Crewe  (the  great  railway-repaii'-shop  of 
England), — or  the  Shrewsbury  and  Hereford  road 
may  be  taken  so  for  as  Shrewsbury,  with  a  cross-cut 
thence  to  the  main  line  at  Stafford. 

AT    AND   ABOUT   LOXDOlSr. 

LoxDOJsr  is,  to  Americans,  the  most  interesting  of 
all  the  great  cities  of  the  Old  World,  from  the  triple 
fact  that  it  is  the  largest  city  of  the  civilized  globe 
— that  in  it,  alone,  of  the  capitals  of  Europe,  the 
language  is  the  same  as  our  own,  so  that  signs,  direc- 


124  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

tions,  iuscriptions,  etc.,  can  all  be  imdorstood  by  the 
least-learned  visitor — and  that,  as  mainly  descended 
from  the  same  people  inhabiting  it,  the  historical 
memorials  involved  are  to  some  extent  our  joint 
property.  The  same  fact,  in  some  degree,  exists 
with  regard  to  everything  in  England  ;  but  there  is 
probably  no  other  point,  except  possibly  the  neigh- 
borhood of  Shakspeare's  birth-place,  where  it  as- 
serts itself  so  strongly  as  at  and  around  the  great 
capital. 

Scarcely  any  traveller  but  is  advised  that  London 
lies  on  the  Tliames,  at  some  fifty  miles  from  the  mouth 
of  that  river,  and  that  it  was  a  city  when  the  Romans 
ruled  in  Britain  ;  but  some  may  need  to  be  reminded 
that  it  occupies  both  sides  of  that  river,  nearly  in 
equal  proportions — the  northern  section  being  com- 
prised in  the  County  of  Middlesex,  and  tlie  southern 
in  that  of  Surrey ;  and  that  it  has  as  many  divisions 
as  Philadelphia  (formerly)  or  Boston,  under  the  dif- 
ferent names  of  The  City,  Westminster,  Marylebone, 
Finsbury,  Lambeth,  Tower  Hamlets,  Chelsea  and 
Southwark.  It  may  be  also  necessary  to  give  an- 
other reminder — that  the  population  of  this  immense 
human  hive  is  now  between  3,000,000  and  4,000,000; 
and  that  the  city  and  suburbs  (comprised  within  the 
above  designations)  cover  a  space  of  about  twelve 
miles  by  ten,  or  one  hundred  and  twenty  square 
miles,  so  that  a  city  of  the  size  of  New  York  could 
be  cut  away  from  one  side  of  it  without  leaving  any 
greater  proportional  mark  than  would  be  the  cutting 
away  of  Yorkville  and  Harlem  from  the  American 
commercial  metropolis. 


ly  EXGLAXD.  125 

Of  course  no  attempt  at  description  could  be  here 
either  necessary  or  possible  :  all  that  can  he  supplied 
for  the  benefit  of  the  unaccustomed  traveller,  is  a 
statement  of  the  objects  best  worth  visiting,  and 
directions  for  reaching  them  most  conveniently. 

The  cab-system  of  London  (though  the  grum- 
bling John  Bulls  are  always  faulting  it)  is  the  best 
in  the  world,  or  only  rivalled  by  that  of  Paris. 
Hansom  cabs  (two- wheelers)  and  four-wheel  cabs 
are  to  be  found  everywhere.  Their  fares  vary  from 
one  shilling  sterling  to  two  and  three  shillings,  for 
either  one  or  two  "persons,  according  to  distance  ;  and 
they  can  be  employed  for  two  shillir.gs  per  hour. 
Carriages,  for  larger  parties,  or  those  who  wish  to 
ride  more  luxuriously,  can  be  obtained  for  about  one- 
third  what  the  same  vehicles  cost  in  Xew  York  :  as, 
for  instance,  during  the  height  of  the  season  of  1867, 
three  persons  hired  a  faultlessly-appointed  open  car- 
riage-and-four,  with  driver  in  full  liver)',  from  a  flish- 
ionable  coach-office,  for  the  round  of  the  Parks,  in- 
volving some  three  hours,  for  ten  shillings  sterling, 
equivalent  to  $2.43  cents  (gold)  with  a  few  pennies 
additional  as  the  driver's  fee  ! 

But  to  return  to  the  cabs.  They  are  the  legs  of 
London,  so  to  speak;  and  the  hurried  traveller  should 
use  them  freely,  thus  not  only  saving  time  and  fa- 
tigue, but  having  a  guide  always  at  hand  in  the 
driver.  With  their  aid,  the  places  named  may  be 
visited  with  great  rapidity  and  yet  with  pleasure  and 
satisfaction.  A  good  local  guide-book,  with  map 
(Routledge's  can  be  bought  for  one  shilling),  will 
also  be  found  convenient,  though  moi:e  for  future 


126  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

reference  than  use  on  the  spot — as  may  be  said  of  all 
local  guide-books. 

Westminster  Abbey  \s  probably  the  first  object  of 
interest  in  London,  from  the  number  of  great  dead 
lying  Avithin  its  walls.  It  can  be  comfortably  "  done  " 
in  one  day — the  first  half  devoted  to  Poets'  Corner, 
and  the  other  "  free "  parts  of  the  Abbey,  where 
stands  the  long  array  of  tombs  and  tablets  to  the 
British  poets,  artists  and  worthies,  from  Shak- 
speare's  time  to  thie  present,  with  a  few  noble  no- 
bodies intermixed ;  and  the  latter  half  to  an  hour  of 
listening  to  the  very  fine  organ  and  choral  service, 
with  a  ramble,  at  an  expenditure  of  sixpence  to  the 
guides,  through  the  royal  chapels  and  the  tombs  of 
the  Kings.  The  objects  of  most  marked  interest  in 
the  Abbey  are  the  noble  building  itself,  with  its 
wonderful  aisles,  arches  and  forests  of  noble  columns ; 
the  tombs  of  Shakspeare,  Ben  Jonson,  Dryden  and 
the  other  poets,  in  Poets'  Comer ;  the  splendid  archi- 
tecture of  Henry  the  Seventh's  Chapel,  stalls  and 
banners  of  the  Knights  of  the  Bath,  there,  and  mag- 
nificent tombs  of  the  founder,  of  Queen  Elizabeth, 
Mary  Queen  of  Scots,  etc, ;  the  golden-mosaicked 
old  altar-tomb  of  Edward  the  Confessor,  in  the  Chap- 
el of  the  same  name,  with  the  tombs  of  Edward  the 
First,  Henry  the  Fifth  and  other  warrior-kings,  the 
weapons  carried  by  some  of  them,  and  the  corona- 
tion-chairs in  which  every  sovereign  of  England 
since  William  the  Conqueror  has  been  crowned,  with 
the  old  Scottish  Scone-stone  (coronation-stone)  set  in 
the  bottom  of  one  of  them.  The  tombs  of  Mrs. 
Nightingale,   Fox,  Pitt,  the  Duke  of  Argyle,  and 


IX  EXGLAXD.  127 

hundreds  of  long-departed  kings  and  nobles,  will 
also  command  attention,  so  far  as  time  may  admit, 
from  varions  causes  certain  to  suggest  themselves 
through  the  eyes,  the  memory,  and  the  inevitable 
pamphlet-guide  which  every  visitor  must  purchase 
at  an  outlay  of  sixpence. 

The  Houses  of  Farliament  (Westminster  Palace) 
may  well  supply  the  next  object  of  interest,  the 
splendid  structure  towering  immediately  over  the 
Abbey.  The  Chambers  of  the  Lords  and  Commons 
should  both  be  seen,  with  the  Queen's  Throne  in  the 
former,  and  the  paintings  and  fine  bas-reliefs  in  some 
of  the  other  rooms  of  the  building — to  all  which, 
if  unguided,  direction  can  easily  be  procured  from 
the  attendants  and  policemen  on  duty.  If  Parlia- 
ment is  in  session,  the  use  of  a  small  douceur  to  at- 
tendants, or  the  influence  of  the  Legation,  Avill  almost 
always  secure  admission  to  the  Commons:  to  the 
Lords  the  access  is  more  difiicult,  though  even  that 
can  generally  be  managed  in  the  same  way.  Before 
quitting  the  building,  a  look  should  be  taken  through 
Westminster  Hall,  now  an  immense  empty  space,  but 
in  which  so  many  of  the  great  criminal  trials,  from 
Charles  the  First  and  Strafford  to  Warren  Hastings, 
have  taken  place.  Half  a  day  is  quite  sufficient  for 
the  Parliament  Houses  and  Hall,  except  when  a  par- 
liamentary session  is  to  be  attended. 

The  Toicer  of  London  is  the  next  object  of  in- 
terest, if  it  does  not  take  precedence  of  the  last-men- 
tioned. It  can  be  reached  either  by  cab  or  one  of 
the  small  steamers  on  the  Thames ;  and  hg,lf-a-day 
will  well  suffice  to  visit  it.     It  stands  at  the  Thames 


128  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

side,  near  London  Bridge ;  and  visitors  are  admitted 
by  tickets  purchased  at  a  ticket-office  without,  and 
accompanied  through  (as  well  as  Avatched)  by  one  of 
the  Queen's  yeomen  (called  "beef-eaters,"  originally 
heaitfetiers),  in  the  costume  of  the  time  of  Henry  the 
Eighth.  The  leading  attractions  in  this  wonderful 
cluster  of ,  fortifications  are  to  be  found  in  the  Trai- 
tors' Gate,  seen  on  entering,  through  which  the  ac- 
cused used  to  be  taken  in  from  boats  on  the  river ; 
the  window  of  the  Bloody  Tower  (seen  from  with- 
out), just  within  which  the  tAvo  ])rinces  are  said  to 
have  been  smothered  by  order  of  Richard  the  Third ; 
the  Horse  Armory  (in  the  White  Tower),  in  which 
effigies  of  half  the  dead  sovereigns  ride  on  horseback 
in  full  ai-mor ;  Queen  Elizabeth's  Armory,  in  the  same 
tower,  where  Sir  Walter  Raleigh  was  so  long  con- 
fined, and  where  the  fatal  axe  and  block  are  yet  to 
be  seen,  by  and  on  which  fell-  so  many  royal  and  no- 
ble heads ;  the  Jewel  Tower,  where  the  regalia  of 
England,  crown,  sceptre,  sword,  etc.,  are  shown  in  an 
ii'on  cage;  the  Beauchamp  Tower,  where  so  many 
noble  captives  languished  away  their  lives ;  the  tre- 
mendous collection  of  ancient  and  modern  arms  and 
aimor,  etc.  The  Tower  represents  more  than  eight 
hundred  years  of  English  history,  and  not  even  Lon- 
don has  a  more  powerful  attraction  to  the  intelligent 
traveller. 

St.  Pauls  Church,  the  Royal  Exchange,  Mansion 
House,  Bank  of  England,  and  Guildhall,  may  all  be 
included  within  a  single  half-day's  visit,  by  cab,  with 
propriety.  St.  Paul's  is  simply  the  noblest  and  grand- 
est church-pile  on  earth,  except  St.  Peter's  at  Rome. 


m  EN'GLA^TD.  129 

It  is  a  wonderful  sight,  to  stand  within  the  dome 
and  look  up  four  hundred  feet  to  the  angels  that 
really  seem  to  be  flying  in  the  bine  sky.  It  lias  som -> 
fine  monuments,  and  in  the  Crypt  below  are  the  rest- 
ing-places of  both  Wellington  and  Xelson,  and  th ) 
funeral-car  of  the  former,  Guildhall  is  mainly  inter- 
esting for  the  sake  of  the  civic  banqueting-liall  whic'j 
gives  it  name,  at  the  end  of  which  stand  the  famoiiii 
giants,  Gog  and  Magog,  of  London  history.  Th^ 
other  three  buildings  named  need  only  be  admired 
from  without,  exCept  the  traveller  has  special  reasons 
and  privileges  for  entering. 

The  British  Museum  demands  a  full  day,  fro:n 
even  the  most  hurried.  It  is  a  noble  building,  con- 
taining the  most  wonderful  and  varied  collection, 
from  books  to  statues,  medals,  relics  and  objects  of 
natural  history,  from  all  ages  and  all  countries,  ever 
gathered  in  any  one  place  upon  earth  ;  and  no  word  in 
addition,  here,  could  increase  the  force  of  such  a 
statement  or  add  to  the  knowledge  of  the  visitor, 
who  will  be  wise,  however,  to  pay  earliest  attention 
to  the  great  Reading-Room,  the  Layard  stones  from 
Assyria,  the  letters  and  autographs  of  eminent  per- 
sons, the  collection  of  seals,  British  antiquities,  etc., 
if  losing  everything  else  for  their  sake. 

The  Crystal  Palace^  at  Sydenham,  demands  a 
day,  and  is  reached  by  rail  from  Victoria  Station. 
It  rivals  the  British  Museum  in  the  wonderful  variety 
of  its  collection  ;  and  yet  nothing  within  the  build- 
ing can  compare  with  the  wonderful  size  and  beauty 
of  the  erection  of  glass  and  iron  itself — an  exagger- 
ation, eight  or  ten  times  the  size,  of  our  lost  New 


130  SHQRT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

York  Palace.  The  grounds  are  only  second  to  the 
building  in  beauty;  and  scarcely  a  day  occurs,  in 
sumraer,  that  some  musical  festival  is  not  given  in 
the  afternoon,  enabling  the  visitor  to  combine  two 
enjoyments. 

Windsor  Castle  and  Park  are  reached  by  rail, 
taking  an  open  cab  or  fly  from  the  Windsor  Station, 
and  a  fair  idea  of  them  may  be  caught  in  half-a-day, 
rail  included.  The  Castle  is  shown,  whenever  the 
Queen  is  not  resident  there,  as  she  generally  is  not 
in  summer.  The  Castle  is  exquisitely  tasteful  in 
location  and  grand  grouping  of  towers;  and  the 
view  from  the  Terrace  is  wondrously  beautiful.  The 
most  notable  rooms,  within,  are  St.  George's  Chapel, 
where  all  the  Knights  of  the  Garter  are  installed, 
and  most  royal  ceremonials  take  place ;  St.  George's 
Hall,  devoted  to  the  festivities  of  the  oi'der;  the 
Waterloo  Chamber,  with  portraits  connected  with 
the  great  battle,  etc.  It  is  almost  needless  to  say 
that  the  acme  of  art  and  luxury  is  reached  in  these 
regal  apartments,  and  that  nowhere  else  can  such 
.glimpses  be  caught  of  tlie  state  surrounding  an  Eng- 
lish sovereign.  The  Castle  overhangs  the  quite  old 
town  of  Windsor  (Windsor  of  the  "  Merry  Wives  ") ; 
the  Home  Park,  in  which  Heme's  Oak,  of  that  play, 
stood  until  1864,  immediately  adjoins  it;  and  a  drive 
of  matchless  beauty,  three  miles  long  and  bordered 
with  the  noblest  elms  in  England,  leads  away  to  the 
Great  Park  and  the  beautiful  Lake,  Virginia  Water, 
which  should  be  driven  to,  and  the  latter  walked 
around,  after  leaving  the  Castle. 

Hampton  Court.,  splendid  old  palace  and  park 


IX  EXGLAXD.  131 

(Bushy  Park),  once  belonging  to  Cardinal  Wolsey, 
and  then  to  Henry  the  Eighth,  with  fine  old  pic- 
tured-galleries,  beautiful  gardens,  and  the  celebrat- 
ed Labyrinth  of  Fair-  Rosamond  in  the  Avooded 
grounds ; 

Kew  Palace  and  Gardens  (Royal),  where  the 
art  of  landscape-gardening,  in  England,  is  literally 
exhausted  and  the  Palm  House  contains  the  finest 
collection  of  tropical  trees  in  Europe ;  and 

Richmond  Hill^  with  its  celebrated  "  Star  and 
Garter "  Hotel,  unrivalled  in  its  view  over  the 
Thames,  and  where  people  from  all  Europe  go  to  eat 
festive  dinners, — 

All  these  may  be  reached  and  hastily  enjoyed 
in  a  cab-ride  of  half  to  three-quarters  of  a  day,  the 
three  lying  on  the  same  route,  along  the  Upper 
Thames,  in  passing  over  w^hich,  in  addition,  Twick- 
enham, Brentford  and  other  rural  villages  will  be 
skirted  and  a  very  pleasant  acquaintance  made  Avith 
English  semi-rural  suburban  scenery. 

The  London  Parks  that  specially  demand  atten- 
tion are  Hyde  Park,  the  Green  Park,  St.  Janies's  and 
Regent's.  Hyde  Park  should  be  taken  in  the  after- 
noon, after  the  hour  of  adjournment  of  Parliament 
(5  to  6),  and  ridden  through  in  an  open  carriage,  to 
meet  the  "notables."  The  others  will  be  driven 
round  in  due  course,  a  pause  being  made  at  the  Re- 
gent's, to  see  the  Zoological  Gardens,  with  their 
fine  collection  of  well-kept  animals  ;  and  in  the  cir- 
cuit of  the  Parks,  any  intelligent  driver  will  point 
out  and  afibrd  good  views  of 

PucMngham  Palace  (the  Queen's  town  i-esidence), 
12 


132  SEORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

St.  James's,  Carlton  House,  Marlborough  House  (the 
Prince  of  Wales's  residence),  etc.,  and  many  of  the 
most  interesting  of 

The  monuments,  of  whicll  London  has  very  many 
notable  ones,  the  most  prominent  being  the  Duke  of 
York's  Column,  in  Waterloo  Place ;  the  equestrian 
statue  of  Charles  I.,  at  Charing  Cross  ;  the  Havelock 
and  other  monuments  in  Trafalgar  Square,  the  "  Lon- 
don Monument "  on  Fish  Street  Hill ;  the  eques- 
trian statue  of  Coeur  de  Lion,  before  the  Parliament 
Houses ;  etc.,  etc. 

A  spare  hour  or  two  may  well  be  spent  at  one  of 
the  most  interesting  old  churches  in  London — the 
Old  Temple  Church,  with  its  gardens,  on  Fleet 
Street,  the  church  with  many  monuments  of  the 
Knights  Templars,  and  the  Temple  buildings,  redo- 
lent of  law*  Acquaintance  will  be  made,  at  the 
same  time,  with  the  far-famed  Temple  Bar,  which 
changes  Fleet  Street  to  the  Strand. 

The  Bridges  of  London,  of  which  there  are  now  no 
less  than  ten,  all  elegant  and  substantial  structures, 
should  receive  an  hour  or  two  of  daylight  attention 
— as  well  as  the  railway  travel  passing  over  them, 
the  odd  aspects  of  the  boats  lying  at  the  wharves, 
the  miserable  little  steamers  passing  up  and  down 
the  Thames,  etc. ;  and  an  hour  at  night,  standing  on 
any  one  of  them  and  admiring  the  lines  of  lights  cross- 
ing the  dusky  river  on  the  others,  would  be  by  no 
means  wasted. 

The  Raihoay  Stations,  of  which  London  has  now 
several  of  the  finest  in  the  worid  (Charing  Cross, 
Victoria,  King's  Cross,  Euston,  Bishopsgate,  etc.). 


I2i  EXGLAND.  133 

will  naturally  Le  oLserved  in  arrivals  aud  de^^ar- 
tures ;  and  the  railway  system,  as  contrasted  with  our 
own,  may  be  studied  in  the  same  connection  with  in- 
terest and  advantage. 

The  Kational  Gallery  (occupying  tlie  north  of 
Trafalgar  Square),  and  the  South  Kensington  Muse- 
um, both  supply  interesting  collections  of  pictures, 
which  should  be  seen  by  art-lovers  if  time  permits, 
though  neither  comes  within  the  range  of  tlie  first 
curiosities  of  London. 

The  Thames  Tunnel,  crossing  beneath  the  river 
from  the  Middlesex  to  the  Surrey  side,  is  a  well- 
enough  thing  to  "  do,"  for  those  who  "  wish  to  say 
that  they  have  been  there,"  and  who  do  not  mind 
going  down  into  unpleasant  and  doleful  places  to  be 
able  to  make  that  boast — as  Tom  Sheridan  begrimed 
himself  by  going  down  into  the  coal-j^it.  It  is  a 
costly  humbug  and  failure,  however. 

The  Underground  Hailways  ("  Metropolitan  ") 
of  London  are  features,  and  at  least  one  ride  should 
be  taken  on  them  by  the  visitor.  To  the  thinking 
of  the  writer,  one  ride  will  be  quite  enough  for  each. 

Greenwich  Hospital  and  Chelsea  Ilcspital,  the 
former  the  naval  asylum  of  Great  Britain,  and  the  lat- 
ter the  military,  are  interesting  places  to  visit,  to  those 
who  may  happen  to  have  a  little  more  time  tlian 
otherwise  demanded,  in  and  about  London.  Many 
mementoes  of  British  heroes  may  be  found  in  both 
(especially  in  Greenwich,  where  Nelson  figures  large- 
ly) ;  and  the  old  pensioners  are  themselves  a  study. 
GreeuAvich  may  be  reached  by  rail,  from  Charing 
Cross,  but  even  better  by  one  of  the  boats  j^lying 


134  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

down  the  Thames ;  while  Chelsea  lies  at  the  south- 
west end  of  the  city  itself,  and  is  within  cab-distance. 

Kensal  Green  is  the  only  cemetery  at  or  near 
London,  presenting  any  peculiar  attractions ;  and  in 
its  case  they  are  found  in  the  burial  there  of  Thomas 
Hood,  Sydney  Smith,  W.  M.  Thackeray,  Allan  Cun- 
ningham, the  children  of  Sir  Walter  Scott,  etc. 

Sjjurgeon's  Tabernacle,  at  the  Elephant-and-Cas- 
tle,  is  one  of  the  "  lions  "  of  London,  and  may  be 
reached  on  Sundays,  in  half-an-hour's  ride  hy  cab  or 
omnibus,  from  any  of  the  great  city  centres. 

London  Theatres  are  very  numerous,  aiid  cele- 
brated for  the  splendor  of  their  entertainments, 
though  scarcely  one  of  them  but  is  dark,  dingy  and 
uncomfortable  to  those  familiar  with  the  handsome 
entrances  and  fine  lights  of  American  houses.  Two 
or  three  evenings'  patronage  of  them  must  of  course 
be  governed  by  the  current  performances ;  but  on  the 
average  the  wisest  selections  will  probably  include 
the  Haymarket,  Adelphi  or  Olympic,  and  Princess's, 
at  any  one  of  which  the  time  spent  is  not  likely  to 
be  thrown  away,  especially  with  the  opportunities 
which  performances  supply  for  studying  the  play- 
going  habits  and  manners  of  the  Londoners. 

Some  of  the  most  charming  jjeeps  into  the  rnral- 
ities  of  England,  attainable  anywhere,  can  be  caught 
in  brief  rides  out  of  London,  by  cab  or  rail — into  Es- 
sex, Kent,  Surrey,  etc. ;  and  half-a-day  spent  in  run- 
ning down  to  Waltham-Cross,  in  Essex,  and  Brox- 
bourne  and  the  Rye-House,  a  few  miles  beyond,  will 
not  orily  show  the  very  fine  old  Cross,  the  ruins  of 
the  Abbey,  and  the  scene  of  the  "  Rye-House  Plot," 


AV  EFGLAXD.  1.35 

but  sojne  of  tlie  very  loveliest  quiet  rural  scenery  on 
earth,  and  many  glimpses  at  tlie  midland-Englisli 
modes  of  farming,  farm-laborers,  agricultural  uten- 
sils, etc. 

It  is  not  to  be  supposed,  either,  that  nearly  all  the 
objects  of  interest  of  the  great  metropolis  have  been 
alluded  to,  or  that  every  short-trip  traveller  can  j^ay 
attention  to  all  mentioned.  But,  taking  them  in  the 
order  of  importance  here  observed,  and  using  the  re- 
markable, facilities  at  hand  for  reaching  tbem — cer- 
tain it  is  that  in  the  six  to  eight  days  allowed  in 
either  of  the  tours  contemplated,  a  very  respectable 
knowledge  of  the  British  capital  may  be  obtained  by 
the  intelligent  and  quick-Avitted  tourist,  however  un- 
used to  the  details  of  travel. 

TO  AND  AT  THE  CUMBEKLAXD  LAKES. 

The  Windermere  Lakes,  or  Cumberland  Lakes, 
as  they  are  oftener  called,  lie  nearly  on  the  extreme 
northwest  of  England,  in  the  two  counties  of  Cum- 
berland and  Westmoreland.  The  Lakes  are  several 
in  number,  within  a  limited  space,  ranging  from 
Windermere,  Ulswater,  Wastwater,  etc.,  of  some 
miles  each  in  length,  to  mere  little  ponds  or  "  tarns," 
like  Grasmere  and  Thirlmere,  and  yet  smaller,  like 
Loughrigg  Tarn,  Elter  Water,  etc.  They  lie  em- 
bosomed among  mountains  of  singular  beauty,  with 
Skiddaw,  Helvellyn  and  Scawfell  among  tlie  highest, 
and  nearly  of  the  altitude  of  our  Cattskill  highest 
peaks ;  and  though  it  is  not  to  be  denied  that,  even 
more  than  those  of  Killarney,  they  look  petty  and 
bandbox-y  to  an  American  full  of  memories  of  Supe- 


136  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

rior  and  Erie,  or  even  of  Winnepesaukie  and  Lake 
George,  so  that  the  droll  Illinoian  who  was  about  to 
drink  out  of  one  of  them  hesitated  for  fear  that  he 
should  drain  it  dry, — yet  there  are  few  spots  on  the 
earth,  lovelier  or  more  worthy  of  a  little  time  spent 
in  catching  hurried  glimpses. 

There  are  two  modes  in  which  the  Lakes  are  likely 
to  be  reached  by  American  tourists,  the  point  of  ap- 
proach in  both  instances  being  the  village  of  Win- 
dermere, in  Cumberland,  and  the  first  object  Lake 
Windermere,  by  far  the  largest  of  the  whole  cluster. 

Of  these  approaches,  one  is  from  Liverpool,  by  the 
London  and  Northwestern  Railway,  to  Oxenholme, 
on  the  Lancaster  and  Carlisle  branch  of  that  road, 
and  then  by  the  Kendal  and  Windermere  spur  of 
the  same  road  to  Windermere.  This  route  will  be 
pursued,  whether  the  visit  is  paid  as  merely  an  ex- 
cursion from  Liverpool,  to  return, — or  the  temporary 
break  is  made  at  Oxenholme  from  the  main  line  from 
Liverpool  to  Carlisle  and  Edinburgh.  The  princi- 
pal places  passed  through,  thus  running  north,  are 
Pi-eston,  Lancaster,  Wigan  and  Kendal,  all  manu- 
facturing in  appearance ;  and  the  countrj-  passed 
through  shows  some  of  the  loveliest  rural  scenery 
of  the  west  of  England,  beginning  soft  and  hand- 
somely hedged  in  South  Lancashire,  roughening 
through  North  Lancashire,  and  becoming  broken, 
hilly,  and  finally  mountainous,  a  little  after  passing 
Lancaster,  and  catching  a  view  of  Morecambe  Bay, 
with  Duddon  Mouth  and  Sands,  stretching  away  to 
the  Irish  Sea.  The  ride  seems  like  a  somewhat  long 
and  weary  one,  from  Liverpool ;  but  as  the  sun,  in 


ly  EXGLAXD.  137 

this  latitude,  at  midsuinmer,  seems  iievcr  to  go 
down  and  it  is  daylight  till  midnight,  there  is  no 
fear  of  losing  the  appearance  of  the  mountains  as 
they  finally  rise  on  the  sight. 

The  other  ordinary  route  of  reaching  the  Lakes 
is  from  the  north,  coming  down  from  Edinburgh  or 
Glasgow  by  Carlisle,  making  the  change  of  trains  at 
Oxenholme  (which  a  facetious  American  lady  spells : 
"Ho-hex-he-hen-haitch-ho-hel-hem-he"),  as  in  going 
north,  and  the  near  apj^roach  being  consequently 
made  in  the  same  manner. 

WixDERMERE  is  a  hamlct  rather  than  a  village, 
lying  on  the  east  side,  nearly  at  the  edge,  and  almost 
at  the  centre,  lengthwise,  of  Lake  Windermere,  with 
the  rival  town  of  Bowness  a  few  miles  below.  Once 
reached,  it  seems  too  pretty  and  rural,  and  too  an- 
tique-looking (though  reallj'^  not  very  old)  for  the 
railway  approach  that  has  been  made ;  and  there  and 
in  the  excursions  from  it  which  fill  up  the  few  hours 
that  can  be  afforded  by  the  hasty  traveller,  the  most 
striking  feature  is  found  in  the  quiet  grace  of  the 
rural  scenery,  the  placid  character  of  the  waters,  the 
beauty  of  the  walled  and  hedged  lanes,  and  tlie 
antique,  peaceful  loveliness  of  the  whitewashed, 
thatched-roofed,  lattice-windowed,  ivy-grown  and 
rose-climbed  stone  cottages. 

The  excursions  from  Windermere  and  Bowness, 
through  the  district,  planned  in  Miss  Martineau's 
entertaining  "Guide  to  the  Lakes"  (which  the  trav- 
eller may  well  buy  and  bring  away  Avith  him,  but 
should  av^oid  reading  and  thus  becoming  confused, 
while  on  the  spot)  —  these  excursions,  echoed  and 


138  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

enlarged  by  hotel  placards  and  insisted  upon  by 
guides  and  drivers,  are  well-nigh  numberless.  But 
alas  I  human  life  is  brief  and  hurried,  and  busy  men 
cannot  pass  it  all  at  Windermere. 

In  arranging  these  short  trips,  the  shortest  time 
allowed  at  and  about  Windermere,  is  one  day ;  the 
longest,  two;  time  for  going  and  returning  being 
otherwise  allowed.  With  only  one  day  of  stay, 
what  seems  the  most  sensible  plan  is  to  be  content 
with  what  the  local  excursion  placards  set  down  as 
"  Excursion  ISTo.  1 " — some  twenty-two  miles  in  ex- 
tent, by  carnage,  and  comfortably  made  during 
somewhat  less  than  the  long  day  of  the  latitude, 
with  time  for  stop  (and  possibly  dinnei*)  at  Gras- 
mere. 

On  this  excursion  the  very  loveliest  scenery  of 
the  district  is  passed,  as  follows :  By  the  east  side 
of  Windermere  Lake,  in  full  view  of  it,  past  the  little 
hamlet  of  Lowood,  with  the  Dove's  Xest  in  sight 
just  beyond — a  pleasant  house  in  which  Mrs.  He- 
mans,  the  poetess,  passed  the  last  years  of  her  life ; 
the  hills  of  Wansfell  Pike  showing  finely  to  the 
ligtt  and  ahead,  and  Wray  Castle  prominent  to  the 
left,  on  the  opposite  shore  of  the  Lake ;  past  Amble- 
side Water-Head ;  and  then  bearing  to  the  left  and 
westward,  past  Loughrigg  Tarn  and  up  the  steep 
Red  Bank,  with  splendid  views  up  the  craggy- 
peaked  Vale  of  Langdale ;  over  Red  Bank,  witli  a 
lovely  view  down  over  Grasmere  Lake,  Tillage  and 
Valley,  with  Helvellyn  and  the  other  mountains  be- 
hind ;  then  down  to 

Grasmere  Church,  with  opportunity  to  view  that 


IX  EXGLAXD.  139 

church,  said  to  have  been  coninienced  before  tlie  Con- 
quest—  the  pew,  font  and  monument  of  the  poet 
Wordswoi'th  within,  and  his  grave  and  tliat  of  Hart- 
ley Coleridge  without.  Dinner,  or  at  least  a  rest,  at 
Grasmere ;  then  round  by  Rydal  Water  and  the  Vale 
of  Rydal,  past 

Rydal  Mount,  the  old  home  of  Wordsworth,  and 
back  through  the  handsome  old  village  of  Amble- 
side, past  the  residence  of  Miss  Martineau,  along  the 
east  side  of  the  Lake  again,  back  to  Windermere. 

The  tourist  who  has  but  the  one  day  at  Winder- 
mere svill  yet  find  time,  after  returning  from  the  ride 
already  described,  to  walk  through  the  grounds  of 
the  late  J?*rofessor  Wilson  (" Christoplier  North"), 
remembered  and  loved  about  Windermere  as  few 
men  can  hope  to  be  in  any  neighborhood, — and  to 
make  the  slight  ascent  of  Orrest  Head,  and  thus 
catch  one  of  the  loveliest  of  all  the  views  over  the 
Lake  and  the  old  village.  The  return  from  Windei'- 
mere,  whether  going  north  or  south,  will  of  course 
be  made  by  the  same  route  as  the  approach — taking 
the  railway  back  to  Oxenholme  and  there  making  the 
main-line  connection. 

With  a  second  day  at  disposal,  and  the  first  spent 
as  before  advised,  it  will  be  policy  to  go  down  yet 
the  same  evening  to  Bowness,  by  boat  or  carriage, 
to  be  ready  for  the  very  different  tour  of  the  next 
morning,  which  has  its  proper  commencement  there. 

The  event  of  the  second  day  will  be  a  visit  to 
Furness  Abbey,  one  of  the  most  interesting  old  ru- 
ins in  the  West,  to  make  which  the  route  will  be  to 
Newby  Bridge   (over   the  river  Severh,  at  the  ex- 


140  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

treme  south  end  of  Lake  Windermere),  —  through 
scenery  less  wild  than  that  of  the  previous  day,  and 
passing  Burnside,  Ferney  Green  and  other  pleasant 
rural  hamlets  before  reaching  the  Bridge.  From 
Newby  Bridge,  by  carriage,  eight  miles  to  the  pleas- 
ant little  town  of  Illverston ;  and  from  Ulverston 
either  by  rail  or  carriage,  only  halt-a-dozen  addi- 
tional miles,  to 

Furness  Abbey  (originally  "Funiesse,"  Noi-man 
French),  said  to  have  been  founded  in  1127,  by  King 
Stephen,  and  especially  favored  by  that  king  and  his 
queen,  Maude,  effigies  of  whose  heads  are  to  be  seen 
near  one  of  the  western  windows.  The  Abbots  of 
Furness  (Bemardins)  are  alleged  to  have  ruled  over 
something  like  a  kingdom ;  and  the  massive  charac- 
ter of  the  yet  well-preserved  ruins  well  attests  the 
size,  splendor  and  stability  of  the  building  in  its 
days  of  religious  occupancy.  Some  of  the  clustered 
columns,  many  of  the  fine  Gothic  windows  and  gate- 
ways yet  remain,  and  the  grounds  (once  embracing 
nearly  seventy  acres)  have  interesting  remains  of 
fish-ponds,  granaries,  and  many  of  the  other  conveni- 
ences of  the  "  lordly  beggars  "  who  once  held  it. 

From  Furness  there  is  no  occasion  of  returning  to 
either  Windermere  or  Bowness,  to  leave  the  Lake 
country.  Returning  to  Ulverston,  the  rail  may  be 
taken  for  the  main-line  at  Carnforth  Station,  whether 
for  going  north  or  south  ;  and  for  going  north  alone, 
and  with  a  fancy  for  much  sea-view  from  carriage- 
windows,  the  rail  may  be  taken  at  Furness,  by  the 
Furness  and  Whitehaven  and  Maryport  and  Carlisle 
roads,  around  the  coast  by  Whitehaven,  Maryport, 


IX  EXGLAXD.  141 

etc.,  across  to  Carlisle  on  the  Edinburgh  or  GlasgOAv 
route. 

TO     AND     AT     THE     SHAKSPEARE     XEIGHBORHOODS     OF 
TVAEWICKSfllRE. 

These  favored  and  attractive  districts  lie  nearly- 
equidistant  from  Liverpool  and  London,  and  not 
more  than  three  hours  by  rail  from  either.  To  reach 
them,  from  London,  the  London  and  Northwestern 
road  should  be  taken  to  Rugby;  then  the  branch 
line  to  Leamington  ;  then  carriage  from  Leamington 
to  Stratford-on-Avon  ;  then  rail  (or  carriage)  from 
Stratford  to  Warwick  ;  then  carriage  (certainly) 
from  Warwick  to  Kenil worth  and  Coventry ;  then 
rail  from  Coventry  to  Birmingham  and  the  main-line 
for  either  a  return  to  London  or  the  routes  northward 
to  Sheffield,  northwestward  to  Liverpool,  or  west- 
ward to  Shrewsbury.  Such  a  disposition  of  route 
and  conveyance  will  give  infinite  variety  and  permit 
the  favorable  (even  if  hurried)  seeing  of  one  of  the 
loveliest  counties  of  England. 

The  larger  proportion  of  Americans,  however, 
who  visit  the  Shakspeare  neighborhoods  at  all,  will 
be  likely  to  do  so  on  their  way  down  from  Liverpool 
to  London ;  and  it  is  from  that  point  of  view  that 
the  foregoing  succession  will  be  reversed  and  the 
principal  points  of  interest  hurriedly  indicated  of 
.what  is  unqueotionably  one  of  the  most  fascinating 
and  indispensable  short  routes  on  the  globe. 

The  route  by  the  London  and  Northwestern,  from 
Liverpool  to  Birmingham,  passes  by  Crewe  and  Staf- 
ford, as  if  on  the  way  to  London.    Trains  are  changed 


142  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

at  Stafford  for  Wolverhampton  and  Birmingham. 
The  smooth  scenery  of  Cheshire,  changing  to  the 
rougher  character  of  Staffordshire,  affords  infinite  va- 
riety in  landscape ;  and  almost  from  the  moment  of 
entering  Staffordshire  the  number  of  furnace-chim- 
neys becomes  so  great  that  they  stupefy  wonder  as 
Avell  as  excite  it.  In  the  neighborhood  of  Wolver- 
hampton the  heart  of  the  iron-country  is  reached ; 
and  here  the  wilderness  of  cliimneys,  the  pack  of 
blazing  and  smoking  furnaces,  and  the  torn-up  and 
mangled  character  of  the  ground,  yet  worse  disfig- 
ured by  the  heaps  of  refuse  ore,  combine  to  produce 
an  impression  very  little  else  than  infernal.  In  the 
very  midst  of  all  this,  embowered  in  extensive  woods, 
on  a  hill,  stand  the  noble  ruins  of  Dudley  Castle 
(burned  some  yeai-s  since) ;  and  the  view  from  the 
castle  ruins  at  midnight,  over  mile  upon  mile  of 
country  apparently  all  belching  flames,  is  said  to  be 
magnificent  beyond  description,  and  at  the  same  time 
infernal  without  qualification. 

Wblvei'hampton  itself  is  chimneys,  coal-smoke, 
iron-dust  and  grime — iron,  and  the  manufacture  of 
iron,  everywhere.  It  offers  no  inducements  for 
stoppage,  to  the  ordinary  traveller.  Nor  is  there 
much  of  additional  interest  in  the  scenery,  until 
reaching 

BiEMiXGHAM,  the  spot  where  iron,  and  brass,  and 
all  other  metals  are  kept  for  sale,  in  a  showy  form 
of  hardware,  and  the  very  name  of  which  has  been 
corrupted  into  "  Brummagem  "  as  a  synonym  for  all 
that  is  plated,  pinchbeck  and  bogus.  It  has  very 
few  attractions,  as  a  town,  outside  of  the  shops  and 


7.V  EXGLAXD.  143 

shop-windows,  the  Town  Hall  and  Corn  Exchange 
being  really  the  only  two  handsome  buildings.  All 
the  inhabitants  ignore  the  sidewalks  and  walk  in  the 
middle  of  the  street ;  and  ximbrQllas  are  in  demand, 
as  it  generally  rains,  whatever  may  be  the  state  of 
the  weather  elsewhere. 

The  ride  by  rail  is  only  a  few  miles,  through  lovely 
shaded  Warwickshire  scenery,  from  Birmingham  to 

CovEiSTRY,  famous  both  in  history  and  romance, 
and  especially  so  in  poetry;  and  rivalling  if  not  sur- 
passing even  Chester  in  the  beautiful  antiquity  of 
some  of  its  buildings.  The  story  of  the  Lady  Godi- 
va,  said  to  have  ridden  naked  on  horseback  through 
the  town,  many  centuries  ago,  to  induce  her  hus- 
band, Earl  Leofric,  to  take  the  heavy  taxes  off  from 
the  inhabitants,  has  been  for  ages  commemorated  by 
processions  embodying  that  alleged  event ;  and  both 
Leigh  Hunt  and  Tennyson  have  embalmed  the  inci- 
dent in  poetry,  that  of  the  latter  being  most  familiar 
to  Amei'ican  readers. 

The  approach  to  Coventry  by  the  railway  is  very 
beautiful.  The  "bridge"  on  Avhich  Tennyson  de- 
scribes himself  to  have  been  "  hanging  "  (lounging) 
Avhen  he  "  watched  the  three  tall  spires  "  and  devised 
the  poem,  is  very  near  the  railway  station,  over  a 
mere  gully ;  and  from  it  the  three  spires,  all  looking 
nearly  alike  and  very  sharp,  seem  to  be  set  almost  in  a 
triangle.  All  three  of  the  churches  are  worth  visit- 
ing, but  especially 

St.  MichaeVs,  by  far  the  oldest,  and  interesting 
without  and  within,  from  the  marks  of  extreme  age 
exhibited ;  and 
13 


144  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

St.  Mary's  HaU^  immediately  adjoining,  shows 
very  finely  the  efiect  of  many  centuries  on  both  wood 
and  stone. 

The  Old  Houses  of  Coventry,  many  of  them  of 
wood-and-plaster,  the  upper  stories  projecting  over 
until  they  almost  touch  across  the  narrow  and 
winding  streets,  are  objects  of  great  interest — among 
the  finest  in  Europe ;  and  everything  about  the  old 
town  is  odd  and  picturesque,  not  forgetting  its  pretty 
girls. 

Peeping  Tom.,  one  of  the  "  lions"  of  Coventry,  is 
a  painted  wooden  figure  of  life-size,  looking  out  of 
an  open  upper  window  not  far  from  St.  Michael's,  in 
commemoration  of  the  one  villanous  tailor  who  would 
look  out  to  see  Lady  Godiva  when  she  i-ode,  and 
who  was  stricken  blind  for  that  meanness.  The  figure 
is  said  to  be  at  least  three  or  four  hundred  years  old, 
and  no  one  should  leave  Coventry  without  seeing  it. 

Some  of  the  finest  fruits  and  flowers  in  England 
are  to  be  found  at  and  about  Coventry,  and  indeed 
all  over  Warwickshire,  kt  midsummer. 

A  "  fly  "  or  carriage  (open,  if  the  weather  is  fine) 
should  be  taken  at  Coventry,  for  Kenilworth  and 
Warwick,  as  no  other  mode  of  transit  will  show  the 
lovely  "  Heart  of  Warwickshire  "•  to  such  advantage. 
The  road  toward  Kenilworth  is  wonderfully  bor- 
dered and  shaded  with  fine  elms,  passing  through 
the.  property  of  Lord  Leigh,  fine  farms  and  some 
charming  very  old  cottages,  clusters  of  cottages,  and 
rural  hamlets,  until  reaching 

KExn.woETH  Castle  and  village — the  latter  very 
..quiet  and  antiquated-looking,  with  plentiful  shade 


Zy  ENGLAND.  145 

and  cottages  humble  but  picturesque;  and  the  for- 
mer one  of  the  most  interesting  media3val  relics  in 
England.  It  is  said  to  have  been  founded  by  one  of 
the  Clintous,  ancestors  of  the  jaresent  Earls  of  Lin- 
coln, in  the  time  of  Henry  I,  (about  1110),  and  was 
afterwards  in  the  possession  of  Simon  de  Montfort, 
the  great  rebel  Earl  of  Leicester,  and  of  John  of 
Gaunt.  But  it  derives  its  chief  celebrity  from  hav- 
ing been  the  property  and  residence  of  another  Earl 
of  Leicester,  Robert  Dudley,  Queen  Elizabeth's  fa- 
vorite of  that  name,  and  his  having  entertained  the 
Virgin  Queen  there,  with  more  than  royal  state — as 
commemorated  in  Sir  Walter  Scott's  novel  of  "  Ken- 
ilworth."  Though  entirely  in  ruins,  the  pile  is  still 
noble  in  both  extent  and  marks  of  original  architec- 
ture, some  of  the  splendid  foliated  windows,  the 
stairways  and  part  of  the  arches  of  the  banqueting- 
hall  yet  remaining, — while  the  all-covering  ivy  has 
made  the  desolation  doubly  beautiful ;  the  gardens 
yet  retain  a  wonderful  variety  of  flowers,  and  the 
great  lawn  and  tilt-yard  can  easily  be  traced  by  those 
who  have  any  idea  of  the  construction  of  ancient 
castles  and  their  grounds, 

Half-an-hour's  ride  from  Kenilworth,  still  by  car- 
nage, an  outer,  and  if  desired  an  inner  view,  can 
be  caught,  by  turning  a  little  off  from  the  road  to 
the  left,  of 

Giiy''s  Cliff  Mill,  a  very  old  stone  structure  stand- 
ing beside  the  Avon,  said  to  be  as  old  as  the  Nor- 
man Conquest,  and  of 

Guy''8  CTe^(C«s^^e),  celebrated  as  the  residence, 
many  centuries  ago,  of  the  famous  and  unfortunate 


146  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

champion,  Guy  of  Warwick,  whose  cave  in  the  solid 
rock,  well  also  in  the  rock,  bed  hollowed  from  a  log, 
and  other  relics,  are  still  shown.  Xo  better  oppor- 
tunity can  be  found  for  surveying  one  of  the  coun- 
try houses  of  the  old  nobility,  than  by  going  through 
Guy's  CliiF,  always  open  to  visitors  when  the  owner 
(Lord  Charles  Percy)  is  absent  with  his  family.  The 
Chapel  (very  old)  and  the  caves  in  the  rocks,  once 
occupied  by  the  monks  who  founded  the  pile,  may 
also  be  seen  to  advantage. 

A  few  miles  farther,  still  by  carriage,  and  the  end 
of  the  most  beautiful  of  rides  is  reached,  in 

Warwicic,  a  very  old  town,  displaying  many  of 
the  same  chai-acteristics  as  Coventry,  with  the  bear- 
and-ragged-stafff  of  the  Warwick  family  conspicuous 
on  the  public  houses  ;  and  the  most  prominent  build- 
ings are  the  very  old  one  called  "  Leicester's  Hospi- 
tal," peculiarly  interesting  to  Americans  from  the 
visit  paid  to  it  and  charmingly  described  by  Haw- 
thorne, and  the  Church  of  St.  Mary's  with  its  many 
fine  antique  monuments. 

WaricicJc  Castle^  standing  on  a  rocky  eminence 
overlooking  the  town  and  at  the  side  of  the  Avon, 
is  a  massive  pile  of  great  beauty,  yet  in  repair  and 
resided  in  by  the  Earl  of  Warwick.  The  finest  view, 
and  one  immortalized  in  many  paintings,  can  be 
caught  from  the  old  bridge  over  the  Avon,  and  it  is 
one  never  to  be  forgotten.  Access  may  be  had  to 
the  Castle  at  certain  hours  (before  10  a.  m.,  when 
the  Earl  is  at  home) ;  and  within  may  be  seen  the 
celebrated  "  Warwick  Yase,"  splendid  armor  and  rel- 
ics in  the  Armory,  etc. 


IN-  EN-GLAND.  147 

At  Warwick  rail  may  be  taken,  for  a  very  brief 
ride  through  lovely  scenery,  to 

Stkatforb-ox-Avox,  the  home  and  burial-place 
of  Shakspeare,  and  the  pilgrimage  of  more  of  the  wor- 
shippers of  genius  than  possibly  any  other  single 
spot  on  the  globe.  A  quiet,  lazy  old  town,  with  the 
Avon  flowing  gently  through  it,  and  the  Avhole  at- 
mosphere seeming  that  of  centuries  ago.  At  Strat- 
ford, unlike  other  places,  the  tirst  object  of  interest 
is  found  in  a  hotel, 

The  Jied  Horse,  made  famous  to  Americans  by 
Washington  Irving  in  his  "  Sketch  Book,"  and  almost 
as  distinguished,  now,  as  the  old  home  of  the  poet. 
From  the  Red  Horse  it  is  but  a  few  minutes,  on  foot, 
to 

Shakspeare' s  Birth-Place,  an  humble  old  timber- 
and-plaster  building,  partially  restored  and  well  pre- 
served, on  Henley  Street,  so  well  known  as  to  all  its 
characteristics  that  nothing  more  need  be  said  than 
that  the  birth-room  is  found  on  the  second  floor, 
front,  with  its  window  covered  with  inscriptions, 
like  the  walls ;  that  there  is  a  Shakspeare  Museum 
attached,  in  the  more  modern  part  of  the  building  ; 
and  that  the  house  is  courteously  shown  as  well  as 
carefully  kept  by  Mrs.  and  Miss  Ashwin,  the  latter 
deservedly  complimented  by  Hawthorne  in  bis  "  Old 
Home."  The  same  walk  may  be  easily  extended  to 
the 

Church  of  the  Holy  Trinity,  a  handsome  half- 
modern  building  standing  amid  fine  elms  at  the 
Avon  side,  and  within  which  Shakspeare's  tomb  and 
monument,  and  the  tombs  of  his  family,  are  shown  in 


148  SHOET-TEIP  GUIDE. 

the  chancel ;  the  record  of  his  birth  and  death  in  a 
very  old  parchment-bound  book,  in  the  vestry  ;  the 
font  in  which  he  was  baptized  (if  at  all),  in  the 
nave,  etc.  The  Grammar  School,  New  Place,  the 
bridges  over  the  Avon,  etc.,  should  also  be  included 
in  the  walk,  the  whole  not  necessarily  occupying 
more  than  two  or  three  hours.  One  of  the  open  car- 
riages, or  "  flys,"  for  which  Stratford  is  not  a  little 
famous,  may  profitably  be  employed  for  a  two  or 
three  miles  ride  across  the  edge  of  the  lovely  Vale  of 
Evesham,  coming  round  by 

Anne  Haihaxoay's  Cottage^  at  the  very  old  and  tum- 
ble-down but  attractive-looking  little  hamlet  of  Shot- 
tery,  where  the  dramatist  courted  and  married  his 
wife,  and  where,  apart  from  those  associations,  a 
charming  antique  cottage  and  many  interesting  rel- 
ics are  shown.  The  fly  should  be  dismissed  at  Shot- 
tery,  in  fine  weather,  and  the  way  made  back  to 
Stratford  on  foot,  across  the  fields,  by  what  has  been 
known  ever  since  his  day  as  "  Shakspeare's  Court- 
ing-path." 

Stratford  should  be  left  by  carriage  (tine  weather 
again  understood,  and  likely  to  be  found  in  June, 
best  month  in  England),  for  the  twelve  or  fifteen 
miles  to  Leamington.  The  scenery  is  somewhat  tame, 
but  softly  beautiful  throughout.  At  three  or  four 
miles  from  Stratford  will  be  skirted  the  grounds  of 

Charlecote  Hall  and  Park,  alleged  to  be  the  place 
of  Shakspeare's  early  deer-stealing  (in  a  diiferent 
way  from  that  at  Shottery)  and  of  his  arraignment 
for  the  offence.  The  Park  is  magnificent,  with  its 
massive  old  oaks,  fine  sward,  and  herds  of  deer — 


ly  EXGLAXD.  149 

really  among  the  finest  belonging  to  less  than  royalty 
in  the  kingdom  ;  and  Charlecote  Ilall,  imposing  Avithr 
out,  offers,  within,  to  the  few  fiivored  visitors  (it  is 
not  commonly  shown)  even  more  of  cliarm,  in  splen- 
did rooms,  tine  pictures,  many  antiquities,  and  one 
set  of  ebony-and-ivory  furnitui-e,  presented  to  the 
Earl  of  Leicester  by  Queen  Elizabeth  at  Kenilworth, 
matchless  in  rarity  and  A'alue. 

Ten  or  a  dozen  miles  beyond  Charlecote,  with  a 
few  pleasant 'little  hamlets  passed,  presents  the  end 
of  the  brief  but  charming  Warwickshire  pilgrimage, 
in 

Ijeamington,  oiiQ  oi  ihe  Saratogas  orBallstons  of 
England — ^handsomely  situated  on  the  little  river 
Leam — clean  and  a  little  too  dainty-looking,  with 
fine  grounds  and  walks  and  a  weakness  for  "Pa- 
rades'' and  "Villas."  It  is  well  worthy  of  an  hour 
or  two  of  stroll,  and.  a  little  of  the  Spa-water  should 
be  drunk,  to  see  if  it  is  any  worse  than  that  of  the 
American  Spas,  after  which 

Rail  for  the  brief  ride  from  Leamington  to  Rug- 
by, one  of  the  three  great  stations  on  the  Liverpool 
and  London  road,  where  Dickens's  "  Mugby  Junc- 
tion "  may  be  seen  by  peeping  into  the  refreshment- 
rooms,  and.  whence  the  way  will  be  direct  to  the 
British  capital  if  the  tourist  wishes  to  go  southward. 

MAKCHESTER   AND    SHEFFIELD. 

Neither  of  these  towns,  the  one  the  head  of  cotton- 
manufacturing  in  Great  Britain,  and  the  other  sup- 
plying the  same  place  to  steel  and  cutlery-woik  of 


150  SHORT-TRIP   QUIJ)E. 

perhaps  the  whole  world — is  reckoned  as  coming  with- 
in the  short-trips  previously  arranged.  But  those 
who  may  have  even  a  day  more  of  time  on  their 
hands  at  Liverpool,  than  originally  contemplated,  or 
who  may  choose  to  neglect  something  else  for  them, 
can  see  both,  hurriedly,  within  that  space. 

Manchester  lies  only  aboitt  thirty  rniles  east  of 
Liverpool,  and  can  be  reached  in  an  hour,  by  rail. 
It  lies  on  the  Irwell,  a  small  branch  of  the  Mersey, 
has  nearly  half-a-million  of  inhabitants  (second  or 
third  in  the  kingdom) ;  has  some  handsome  bridges 
connecting  it  with  Salford  (opposite)  ;  the  Cathedral 
Church  of  St.  Mary's,  old  and  with  fine  monuments  ; 
the  Exchange,  Town-Hall,  etc.,  all  worthy  of  notice ; 
but  of  course  the  prime  motive  of  visit  is  to  see 

The  Cotton-Mills^  wonderful  in  their  number  and 
extent,  and  the  perfection  of  their  machinery,  and 
supplying  more  than  half  the  cotton-goods  used  in 
the  world.  Permission  to  go  through  them  is  attain- 
able through  introduction  to  any  of  the  managers, 
easily  obtained  at  Liverpool  by  those  who  have  any 
commercial,  shipping  or  personal  acquaintance  there. 

Sheffield  lies  some  fifty  miles  beyond  Manches- 
ter, still  eastward,  and  is  reached  by  the  M.  and  S. 
Railway  from  the  latter  place,  in  one-and-a-half 
hours.  It  has  not  much  more  than  one-quarter  the 
size  and  population  of  Manchester ;  the  prevailing 
furnace-smoke  makes  it  dingy  and  dusky ;  and  there 
are  few  public  buildings  of  prominence.  The  attrac- 
tion nearly  all  lies  in  the  immense 

.Steel  and  Cutlery  Manufactories,  models  of  their 
class  and  unequalled  in  size  and  costly  machinery. 


ly  EXGLAKD.  151 

Admission  liable  to  the  same  conditions  before  noted 
with  reference  to  Manchester. 

peominejStt  exglish  watering-places. 

The  English  watering-places  are  very  numerous, 
and  the  shoi't-trip  tourist  may  manacre  to  visit  one 
or  more  of  them,  marine  and  inland,  A  brief  note 
of  several  of  the  most  jirominent  will  be  made,  with 
directions  for  reaching,  as  off-shoots  from  other  routes, 
and  hints  of  their  several  characteristics. 

Cheltenham,  the  most  fashionable  of  tlie  Spa- 
Springs,  lies  about  thirty  miles  due  south  from  Bir- 
mingham, and  may  be  most  conveniently  reached  by 
rail  from  thence,  except  by  those  who  are  going  far- 
ther south  to  Bristol  or  Plymouth,  who  will  necessa- 
rily pass  through  it.  Or,  it  may  be  taken  on  the  way 
from  Liverpool  to  London,  by  Birmingham;  from 
Cheltenham  to  Bristol,  and  thence  by  Great  West- 
ern Railway  direct  to  London.  Or  from  Chelten- 
ham across  to 

Oxford,  the  great  seat  of  learning,  with  its  wil- 
derness of  Colleges  and  fine  grounds,  and  thence  to 
London. 

The  attractions  of  Cheltenham  are  very  like  those 
of  Saratoga,  though  Avith  greater  age  and  finish. 
Beautiful  grounds  and  parados,  costly  hotels  and  in- 
numerable boarding-houses,  spring-houses  and  all  the 
accompaniments  of  pleasure-seeking,  make  it  singu- 
larly-pleasant and  fashionably-popular. 

Bath,  formerly  the  superior  of  Cheltenham  in 
Spa-visiting,  but  now  only  its  rival,  is  a  handsome  old 
town  lying  on  the  Avon,  ten  miles  from  Bristol  (on 


152  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

the  G.  W.  Railway  towards  London);  and  has  all 
the  characteristics  spoken  of  with  reference  to  Chel- 
tenham, with  yet  more  pretentious  buildings,  some 
ridiculously-pleasant  memories  of  the  Prince  Regent, 
Beau  Nash,  and  other  prominent  fops,  and  a  fine  old 
Abbey  Church,  with  monuments. 

Leamixgtox,  the  third  of  the  Spas  in  importance, 
has  already  been  spoken  of  and  the  mode  of  approach 
indicated,  in  the  just-closed  account  of  the  Shak- 
speare  neighborhoods  of  Warwickshire. 

Of  the  sea-shore  watering-places  the  most  fashion- 
able, at  the  present  writing,  is 

ScAEBOROUGH,  On  the  northeast  coast,  about 
forty  miles  northeast  from  York,  and  reached  by 
rail  from  that  city.  It  has  a  fine  bold  coast,  splen- 
did bathing,  fine  hotels,  and  now  attracts  much  of 
the  best  society.  Next  to  it  (formerly  far  before  it), 
comes 

Brighton,  for  many  years  the  sea-bathing-place 
par  excellence,  of  the  British  Islands.  It  lies  on  the 
British  Channel,  about  forty  miles  east  from  South- 
ampton, or  from  the  eastern  point  of  the  Isle  of  Wight 
— about  fifty  miles  from  London,  whence  it  is  reached 
in  two  hours  by  the  London,  Brighton  and  South- 
Coast  Railway.  It  has  a  regular  population  of  some 
80,000,  very  often  increased  by  visitors,  in  Septem- 
ber and  October,  to  100,000.  It  has  many  fine  build- 
ings— among  others  the  Royal  Pavilion,  built  by 
George  IV.  when  Prince  Regent;  and  the  Marine 
Wall,  Chain  Pier  and  promenade  are  all  worthy  of 
special  notice,  while  probably  at  no  place  in  Great 
Britain  can  the  mixed-society  and  customs  of  a  water- 


ly  EXGLA^D.  153 

ing 'place  be  better  observed.  Steamer  can  be  tak- 
en from  Brighton  to  Diejjpe  (France)  if  desirable. 

The  Isle  of  "Wight  and  the  coasts  op^oosite  form 
a  collective  summer  resort  for  many  thousands; 
while  the  Queen's  residence  on  the  island  (Osl)orne 
House),  the  abode  there  of  many  other  distinguished 
people,  Caris'brooke  Castle  (in  which  Charles  I.  was 
confined),  and  the  neighborhood  of  the  Portsmouth 
and  Gosport  great  navy-yards  and  naval  dej^ots — 
make  this  section  a  very  interesting  one  to  those  pos- 
sessed of  more  spare  time  than  the  supposed  short- 
trip  tourist.  (Southampton,  Portsmouth,  the  Isle  of 
Wight,  etc.,  are  reached  in  some  three  hours  by  rail- 
way from  London,  from  which  they  lie  southwest.) 

Rhyl  and  Llandudno  are  two  Welsh  watering- 
places  of  prominence,  both  lying  on  the  coast,  not 
far  from  LiA'crpool  and  easily  reached  by  boat  thence. 
Both  give  fine  views  of  the  Welsh  coast  and  niouu- 
tauis;  Llandudno  is  now  very  fashionable;  and 
Rhyl  is  famous  for  the  donkey-rides  whicli  it  supplies 
mountainward. 

Margate,  Ramsgate  and  Hastings  supply  sea- 
bathing very  extensively  to  Londoners,  and  especial- 
ly to  the  middle  classes  at  an  earlier  period  of  tlie 
summer  than  witnesses  the  filling  up  of  the  more 
fashionable  resorts.  Margate  lies  at  the  south  lip  of 
the  Thames,  some  seventy  miles  from  London,  east, 
and  just  within  the  j)oint  known  as  the  North  Fore- 
land j  while  Ramsgate  lies  a  few  miles  southward, 
beyond  the  point  and  on  the  open  channel.  Both 
ai"e  reached  by  the  Southeastern  Railway  from  Lon- 
don, in  some  four  hours ;  and  both  have  certain  curi- 


154  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

osities  in  the  "vvay  of  piers,  promenades,  etc.,  desen'- 
ing  attention ;  while  at  Ramsgate  particularly,  and 
at  Margate  in  only  a  less  degree,  the  system  of 
bathing  by  means  of  bathing-machines,  or  covered 
carts  (rendered  necessary  by  the  great  rise  and  fall 
of  tide),  can  be  studied  to  excellent  advantage. 

ILvsTiJfGS  (one  of  the  Cinque  Ports)' on  the  Chan- 
nel, some  twenty  miles  east  of  Brighton,  is  also  a 
place  of  considerable  resort,  to  be  reached  by  either 
the  Southeastern  or  the  London,  Brighton  and  South- 
Coast  Railways. 

There  are  a  variety  of  other  and  minor  watering- 
places,  marine  and  inland,  but  the  most  notable  have 
here  been  indicated;  and  the  huri-ied  tourist  will 
easily  be  able  to  select  any  lying  nearest  to  his  in- 
tended route  and  involving  the  least  extra-expendi- 
ture of  time  and  money.  • 

ENGLAND    TO    SCOTLAXD. 

There  are  three  principal  approaches  to  Scotland, 
for  American  tourists,  and  their  routes  are  generally 
detei'mined  by  those  modes  of  approach. 

The  first  is  by  steamer  direct  to  Glasgow  (as 
treated  of  in  the  chapter  on  "  Look-outs  and  Land- 
makings"), — or  by  coast-steamer  from  Liverpool  to 
Glasgow,  on  the  west,  or  London  to  Edinburgh,  on 
the  east. 

The  two  great  remaining  approaches  are  both  by 
railway — from  Liverpool  to  Glasgow,  to  go  eastward 
through  the  Highlands  to  Edinburgh — and  London 
to  Edinburgh,  to  go  westward  through  the  High- 
lands to  Glasgow. 


m  ENGLAND.  155 

Liverpool  to   Glasgoic. 

By  the  first,  the  London  and  Northwestern  road 
is  taken  at  Liverpool  (as  in  going  to  the  Cumberland 
.Lakes),  passing  through  Lancaster,  Preston,  Kendal, 
etc.,  as  by  that  route,  to 

Carlisle,  on  the  Border,  situated  on  the  bank  of 
the  river  Eden,  which  runs  into  the  near  Solvvay 
Frith.  It  has  some  manufactories,  but  is  much  more 
interesting  for  its  associations  with  border- warfare, 
and  for  the  remains  of  the  old  Castle,  said  to  have 
been  built  as  a  defence  against  the  Scots,  by  William 
Rufus. 

The  head  of  the  Solway  Frith  is  crossed  a  few  miles 
beyond  Carlisle,  and  the  course  then  continues  north- 
ward and  westward,  through  somewhat  rugged  and 
fine  scenery,  without  passing  through  any  towns  of 
special  importance,  though  here  and  there  with  a  re- 
minder of  history — to  Glasgow.  Time  from  Liver- 
pool to  Glasgow,  nine  to  ten  hours. 

London  to  Edinburgh. 

Those  who  go  up  from  Liverpool  to  GlasgOAv,  can 
most  properly  return  from  Edinburgh  to  London,  the 
eastern  as  well  as  the  western  part  of  the  kingdom 
being  thus  traversed.  For  such  as  do  so,  the  route 
following  will  only  need  to  be  precisely  reversed  in 
its  details. 

From  London  to  Edinburgh,  the  Great  Northern 
Railway  is  taken — actual  running  time  about  twelve 
to  fifteen  hours.  The  first  stopping-place  of  the  ex- 
press-trains is  at 

14 


156  8H0ET-TEIP  GUIDE. 

Peterborough^  a  small  old  town,  with  no  particu- 
lar interest  except  the  remains  of  a  fine  old  Cathedral 
in  which  Catharine  of  Arragon  (Queen  of  Henry 
VIII.)  and  Mary  Queen  of  Scots  (originally)  were 
buried. 

The  next  place  of  importance  is 

Newark  (from  which  the  New  Jersey  town  took 
its  name),  a  small  town,  with,  again,  little  of  interest 
except  an  old  castle,  now  in  ruins,  said  to  have  been 
occupied  by  King  John  at  the  time  of  his  death. 
The  next  is 

Doncaster,  celebrated  for  its  races,  and  not  of  the 
least  importance  except  when  they  are  in  progress 
(during  the  early  recess  of  Parliament — September). 
Then 

ToEK,  a  fine  old  city,  on  the  Ouse,  where  Constan- 
tine  the  Great  is  alleged  to  have  been  born,  some 
1600  years  ago,  and  famous  in  all  English  history. 
Even  the  most  hurried  should  lie  over  one  train, 
here,  to  see  the  magnificent 

York  Minster,  or  Cathedral,  the  second  largest 
in  England,  and  considered  one  of  the  finest  in  the 
world — begun  in  the  seventh  century,  though  prin- 
cipally built  in  the  thirteenth  and  fourteenth.  The 
old  walls  of  the  city  are  yet  standing,  anci  supply  a 
charming  promenade ;  while  there  are  some  public 
buildings  well  worthy  of  attention.  A  drive  out  of 
the  town,  about  five  miles  westward,  will  supply  an 
interesting  view  of 

Ifarston  Moor  (Long  Marston),  where  Charles  I. 
suflTered  perhaps  his  worst  defeat  from  the  Parlia- 
mentary armies. 


ly  EFGLAND.  15V 

Beyond  York,  the  ride  is  unbroken,  until  reach- 
ing 

Newcastle-upon-Tyne^  the  celebrated  centre  of  the 
English  coal-trade,  even  a  fe^v  minutes'  pause  at  which 
shows  that  it  is  composed  of  coal,  coal-dust,  coal- 
vans,  and  other  indications  of  tlie  collieries.  Shields, 
the  great  coal-port,  lies  a  few  miles  eastward,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Tyne. 

Beyond  Newcastle  the  tourist  crosses  the  histori- 
cal Northumberland,  the  border-shire,  celebrated  in 
all  the  troubles  with  the  Scots.  If  time  does  not 
press  too  closely,  by  changing  from  the  express  to  a 
local  train  at  Newcastle,  a  visit  may  be  paid  to 

Alnwick  Caatle,  lying  only  two  or  tliree  miles 
westward  from  the  main  line,  with  a  branch-road 
leading  thither.  Alnwick,  the  old  home  of  the 
Percies,  Earls  and  Dukes  of  Northumberland,  is  one 
of  the  finest  ruins  in  Great  Britain ;  and  it  is  pecu- 
liarly interesting  to  Americans,  from  the  celebrity 
given  to  it  by  Halleck  in  that  most  charming  of  po- 
ems bearing  the  same  name. 

Takincr  the  main-line  ag-ain  at  little  Alnwick  Sta- 
tion,  the  road  runs  thenceforth  very  near  to  the  bor- 
der of  the  German  Ocean  on  the  right,  with  frequent 
views  of  that  historical  ocean,  over  which  the  Danes 
came  to  subjugate  Britain — all  the  way  to 

BerwicJc-on- Tweed,  at  which  fine  old  town  the 
Tweed  is  crossed  by  a  bridge  and  the  scenery  seems 
to  roughen  and  become  more  picturesque  from  tlie 
very  moment  of  touching  the  Scottish  soil. 

From  Berwick  the  run  occupies  some  two  hours, 
through  the  mountain  and  coast  scenery  made  im- 


158  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

mortal  by  Scott  in  the  "  Bride  of  Lammermoor," 
over  Haddingtonshire  and  the  Lothians,  with  a  brief 
stop  at  the  fine  old  town  of  Dunbar, — till  the  Frith 
of  Forth  opens  ahead  and  to  the  right,  and  the  tour- 
ist is  disembarked  at  Edinburgh. 


XL 

CEOSSiNG  THE  BRITISH  CHANXEL.. 

Nearly  a  dozen  routes  of  transit  present  them- 
selves, between  England  and  France,  and  especially 
between  the  two  great  cities,  London  and  Paris. 
But  three  special  routes  seem  to  possess  advantages 
over  all  others,  and  to  these  the  hurried  tourist  may 
well  confine  himself. 

Those  three  are : ' 

1st.  Steamer  between  Dover,  England,  and  Ca- 
lais, France,  Distance  about  twenty-four  miles,  and 
time  one  and  a  half  to  two  hours.  From  London  by 
Southeastern  Railway. 

2d.  Steamer  between  Folkestone,  England,  and 
Boulogne-sur-Mer,  France.  Distance  about  twenty- 
eight  miles,  and  time  one  and  three-quarters  to  two 
and  one-quarter  hours.  From  London  by  South- 
eastern Railway. 

3d.  Steamer  between  Newhaven,  England,  and 
Dieppe,  France.  Distance  sixty-five  to  seventy  miles, 
and  time  six  to  eight  hours.  From  London  by  Lon- 
don, Brighton  and  South-Coast  Railway. 

By  all  these  routes  the  passage  is  more  or  less 
terrible,  except  in  unusually  calm  weather ;  and 
there  is  really  very  little  diffei-ence  between  them, 
except  as  to  the  time  consumed  and  the  lines  with 
which  they  connect.     The  boats  on  all  of  them  are 


160  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

staunch,  safe  and  uncomfortable — meet  with  few 
accidents,  but  generally  land  their  passengers  more 
dead  than  alive,  from  sea-sickness. 

For  going  to  France,  with  at  all  decent  weather, 
and  for  the  first  time,  the  line  by  Newhaven  and 
Dieppe  may  well  be  chosen,  as  it  is  to  be  supposed 
that  the  man  (or  even  the  woman)  who  has  endured 
ten  days  on  the  Atlantic  can  endure  six  to  eight 
hours  on  the  Channel, — and  as  by  that  route  both 
Dieppe  and  Rouen,  two  of  the  handsomest  old  cities 
in  Fi-ance,  can  be  hastily  seen,  while  the  way  toward 
Paris  will  be  taken  by  the  French  Chemin  de  Fer  de 
r  Quest  (Western  Railway),  through  a  portion  of 
Lower  Normandy  more  exquisitely  beautiful  than 
almost  any  other  strip  of  the  same  extent  on  the 
Continent, 

For  the  return  to  England,  if  to  be  made  at  all 
from  France  (as  usual)  the  Chemin  de  Fer  die  Nord 
(Northern  Railway)  should  be  taken  from  Paris,  as 
by  that  route  another  portion  of  Normandy  will  be 
passed  through,  with  the  fine  old  city  of  Amiens ; 
both  Boulogne,  on  the  French  side,  and  Folkestone, 
on  the  English  (termini  of  the  other  line)  will  be 
likewise  passed  through,  though  hastily  ;  and  the 
voyager  will  enjoy  the  opportunity  of  noticing  the 
old  walls  and  gates  of  Calais,  so  celebrated  in  the 
long  wars  of  the  Henrys  and  Edwards,  between 
England  and  France,  and  of  marking  the  appearance, 
from  the  Channel,  of  Dover  Cliffs,  made  doubly 
notable  by  Shakspeare  (in  "King  Lear"),  Dover 
Castle,  and  the  "  White  Cliffs  of  Albion,"  generally, 
as  seen  at  their  hischest. 


CEOSSIXG  TUB  BEITISII  CIIAXNEL.       161 

The  route  by  Boulogne  and  Folkestone  is  mean- 
while an  excellent  one,  for  cither  way,  and  the  op- 
portunity which  it  affords  of  spending  cA'en  an  hour 
in  Boulogne,  so  well  known  as  the  paradise  of  run- 
away English  debtors,  is  not  to  be  despised.  For 
the  reasons  given,  however,  the  two  others  may  be 
lield  pref(M"able,  in  the  order  named  for  the  going 
and  return  trips.  It  should  be  added  that  the  run 
from  Paris  to  Boulogne,  so  far  as  it  goes,  is  the  same 
as  that  to  Calais — the  French  Northern  Railway 
{Chembi  de  Fer  die  JVbrd),  and  that  by  that,  also, 
Amiens  is  passed  through,  with  its  memories  of  a 
treaty  in  wdiich  the  United  States  of  America  were 
once  largely  interested. 


xn. 

SHORT  TEIPS  IN  FRANCE. 
DIEPPE   TO   PARIS,   BY   EOUEX. 

.Crossing  the  Channel  from  Newhaveu,  the  fii*st 
object  of  interest  is  to  be  found  in  the  high  piers, 
with  narrow  entrance  and  gaudily-gilclcd  colossal 
crucifixes  on  them,  of  the  very  old  French  town  of 

Dieppe,  port  at  which  the  English  kings  were 
in  the  habit  of  landing  in  their  wars  with  France, 
and  to  which  Sir  William  Wallace,  tlie  hero  of  Scot- 
land, is  said  to  have  brought  the  pirate  Longueville 
after  capturing  him  off  the  harbor.  Some  hours  can 
be  profitably  spent  here,  in  viewing  the  odd  French 
houses ;  the  old  Chateau  de  Dieppe  (Castle)  on  the 
hill  to  the  west,  said  to  have  been  founded  by  Char- 
lemagne ;  the  bathing-grounds,  with  tlieir  fine  Etab- 
lissement  des  Bains  (dancing  and  gambling  house) ; 
the  splendid  hotels,  with  their  handsome  gardens 
and  lawns;  some  of  the  narrow  streets  with  very 
old  houses;  the  confined  dock-basins ;  the  handsome 
old  churches  of  St.  Jacques  and  St.  Reini,  etc. 

If  time  sufiices,  a  ride  of  two  or  three  miles,  and 
return,  will  afford  an  excellent  peep  into  mediaeval 
history,  in  the 

Castle  of  Argues,  once  owned  and  occupied  by 
Henry  V.  of  England,  and  near  which  he  won  the 


m  FEAXCE.  163 

decisive  battle  of  that  name  —  now  a  splendid  old 
ruin,  with  one  of  the  grandest  of  tlie  archways  yet 
remaining. 

Away  from  Dieppe,  the  railway,  as  has  been 
already  said,  crosses  one  of  the  loveliest  lines  of 
Lower  Normandy,  with  willowed  water-courses,  pic- 
turesque hills,  valleys,  chateaux  and  cottages,  pass- 
ing the  chateau-dominated  old  town  of  Monville  on 
the  left,  and  striking  the  pleasant  winding  Seine  but 
half-an-hour  before  stopping  at 

RouEX,  after  Paris,  unquestionably  the  most  in- 
teresting city  in  France,  from  historical  associations, 
architecture,  and  beauty  of  location.  It  lies  on  the 
north  bank  of  the  Seine,  with  rolling  hills  westward; 
has  extensive  cotton-manufoctories  stretching  along 
the  river ;  and  historically  recalls  (principally)  Henry 
v.,  who  besieged  it  for  nearly  a  year — Joan  of  Arc, 
who  was  burned  here — and  the  Regent  Duke  of  Bed- 
ford who  burned  her.  In  architecture  and  relics  it 
is  even  richer;  for  the  Cathedral  and  the  Abbey 
Church  of  St.  Ouen  disjDute  with  Xotre  Dame,  at 
Paris,  the  claim  of  being  the  most  magnificent  of. 
churches,  while  the  great  stained-glass  windows  of 
St.  Ouen  certainly  excel  either,  and  the  monuments 
of  the  Cathedral  include  those  of  Rollo,  first  Duke 
of  Normandy,  Richard  Coeur  de  Lion,  Prince  Henry, 
and  many  others ;  in  the  Place  de  la  Pucelle  is  to  be 
seen  the  spot  where  Joan  of  Arc  was  burned  by  the 
English ;  in  the  Church  of  St.  Gervais  is  remarked 
the  spot  where  William  the  Conqueror  died  ;  and  in 
the  Museum  of  Antiquities  are  to  be  found  the  heai't 
of  Coeur  de  Lion  (what  little  remains  of  it)  in  a  glass 


164  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

casket,  chai'tevs  signed  by  William  before  Hastings, 
etc. 

All  these,  and  some  of  the  finest  old  houses  of 
Rouen,  can  be  well  enough  seen  in  one  day,  though 
longer  space  could  be  well  employed.  So  much 
"  skims  "  the  glory  of  the  old  city,  at  least,  and  the 
route  to  Paris  may  be  resumed. 

There  is  not  much  of  additional  interest  between 
the  capital  of  Kormandy  (Rouen)  and  that  of 
France.  The  scenery  is  tamer,  though  Aery  pleasing 
in  portions;  and  only  one  town  of  impoitance  is 
passed,  after  leaving  Rouen, — Tourville,  at  only  half- 
an-hour's  distance.  Xearly  all  interest,  however,  is 
concentrated  on  the  pleasure  in  advance ;  and  indeed 
it  is  not  certain  that  some  tourists  do  not  commence 
to  look  for  the  spires  and  monuments  of  the  great 
city,  from  the  very  moment  of  leaving  Dieppe. 

The  run  from  Dieppe  to  Paris  usually  occupies 
about  six  hours;  and  the  approach,  as  the  course  of 
the  road  would  indicate,  is  from  the  northeast.  The 
first  object  meeting  the  eye,  coming  near,  is  the  Fort 
.of  Vailerien,  one  link  of  the  immense  and  formidable 
chain  of  fortifications  surrounding  the  city,  by  which 
it  could  be  laid  in  ashes  or  put  under  contribution 
within  tAvo  hours.  This  is  seen  to  the  right,  before  the 
city  is  fairly  visible.  Then  come  the  handsome  Heights 
of  Montmartre,  towering  over  the  city  on  the  left, 
with  their  pleasant  shade  and  suggestions  of  luxuri- 
ous residences.  And  then,  as  the  next  curve  of  the 
railway  is  rounded,  the  city  itself  heaves  into  view, 
with  one  colossal  pile  seeming  to  OA^ertop  it  all,  Avhich 
the  tourist   scarceh"  needs   to   be   told  is  the  Are 


ly  FEAXCE.  165 

d'Etoile,  or  Arch  of  Triumph  of  the  Star,  hereafter  to 
be  alluded  to,  and  oiie  of  the  mightiest  ami  most 
imposing  of  all  the  monuments  of  Europe. 

Thereafter  com-es  the  necessity  (easily  supplied) 
of  cab-hiring  for  destination,  and  the  "vvhirl,  glitter 
and  confusion  of  the  nearest  of  all  approaches  to  the 
stereotyped  phrase,  "Modern  Babylon."  But  with 
this  arrival  comes  the  necessity  of  another  paper, 

AT   AND    ABOUT   PARIS. 

More  guide-books,  works  of  description,  and 
would-be  aids  to  the  traveller,  have  been  written 
about  Paris  than  any  other  city  on  the  globe — more, 
even,  than  about  London,  which  is  saying  much. 
Most  of  them  confuse  the  hurried  reader  by  attempt- 
ing too  much  ;  nearly  all  of  them  bewilder  the  hur- 
ried traveller,  by  supposing  that  he  has  four  times 
the  length  of  days  or  hours  really  at  his  disposal, 
and  setting  him  at  the  impracticable.  This  error  will 
not  be  reached  in  the  present  instance :  all  that  will 
bQ  attempted  will  be  merely  to  indicate,  in  the  brief- 
est manner,  a  few  of  the  most  notable  of  the  notable 
things  of  the  "world's  capital"  (as  Frenchmen  and 
Franco-phobians  delight  to  call  it),  and  some  order 
of  time  and  mode  for  seeing  them  to  the  best  advan- 
tage. 

For  a  long  stay,  of  course  lodgings  would  be  de- 
sirable ;  for  a  few  days,  some  hotel  is  by  for  prefer- 
able, and  there  is  plenty  of  choice.  If  very  deficient 
in  French,  unaccompanied,  and  able  to  meet  the 
small  additional  expense — the  tourist  would  do  quite 
as  well  to  take  an  English-and-French-speaking  valet 


166  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

de  place  (obtainable  at  any  hotel,  by  inquiring  at  the 
office)  for  the  most  important  of  his  sight-seeings. 
With  such  a  guide,  cab-hire  will  be  a  little  reduced, 
as  different  objects  of  interest  may  be  visited  with 
less  expenditure  of  time  and  "  leg-weariness,"  through 
the  valet's  knowledge  of  "  cross-cuts,"  in  the  latter 
of  which  Paris  even  excels  Boston. 

The  valet  de  place  out  of  the  question,  however, 
the  cab  recurs.  The  cab-system  of  Paris  is  very 
nearly  or  quite  as  excellent  as  that  of  London  ;  and 
a  cab  for  one  or  two  persons  (sometimes  for  three) 
can  be  obtained  at  1^  to  2^  francs  the  course  (any 
distance  inside  the  fortifications),  or  2  to  4  francs  the 
hour,  when  many  stoppages  are  to  be  made.  The  cab 
should  accordingly  be  used  freely,  and  the  ex- 
pense will  be  nearly  saved  in  boot-leather  and  quite 
in  health  and  temper,  especially  as  Paris  is  sultry  in 
midsummer. 

(First  Day.) — ^Devote  half  the  day  on  foot,  if 
accompanied  or  guided  (distances  being  short),  to 

The  Seine  (river)  its  Quays  and  Bridges.  The  first 
is  very  small,  muddy,  and  historically  interesting  ; 
the  second  are  very  high,  massive,  and  worth  study 
for  the  sake  of  their  cost,  the  charming  walks  and 
drives  along  them,  the  arrangements  for  getting  down 
to  the  docks  below,  the  baths  along  their  sides,  etc. ; 
and  the  third  are  very  numerous,  handsome  and  du- 
rable, spanning  the  river  at  all  points  in  front  of  the 
city,  as  well  as  from  the  He  de  la  Cite  (City  Island), 
and  the  He  St.  Louis,  lying  above  it.  The  next  half 
day,  and  in  immediate  connection,  may  well  be  de- 
voted to 


I2i  FEAKCE.  167 

The  Palace  of  the  Tuilerles  (outside),  tlie  resi- 
dence of  the  Emperor;  the  scene  of  inaijy  historical 
events,  inchiding  two  attacks  and  captures  by  the 
populace,  at  the  dethroning  of  Louis  XVI.  in  1793 
and  Louis  Philippe  in  1848;  and  the  exponent  of 
more  orders  in  architecture,  and  a  better  effect  pro- 
duced by  an  indiscriminate  jumble,  than  any  one, 
not  a  madman,  could  have  believed.     Also  to  the 

Gardens  of  the  Tuileries,  extended  and  beauti- 
fullys-haded  grounds  lying  immediately  in  front  of 
the  Palace,  with  statuaiy  of  rare  merit,  fountains, 
etc.,  supplying  one  of  the  favorite  promenades  to 
Parisians  of  all  classes  and  ages,  and  especially  to 
children  with  their  nurses.     Next  to  the 

Place  de  la  Concorde,  connecting  the  gardens 
M'ith  the  Champs  Elysees.  An  open  space,  with  splen 
did  fountains  and  colossal  statuary,  and  with  the 
great  red-granite  Obelisk  of  Luxor  in  the  midst, 
brought  from  Thebes  in  Egypt  at  immense  expense, 
and  standing  on  the  very  spot  where  during  the 
early  part  of  the  Reign  of  Terror  stood  the  guillo- 
tine on  which  perished  Louis  XVI.,  his  sister,  Marie 
Antoinette,  and  twenty-eight  hundred  others.  Next 
into  the 

Champs  Elysees  (Elysian  Fields),  adjoining  the 
Place  de  la  Concorde  on  the  west,  the  great  home 
pleasure-ground  of  Paris,  covering  some  forty  acres, 
bordering  on  the  Seine  and  extending  to  the  -^rc 
d'Etoile  at  the  extreme  western  point.  Magnificently 
shaded  ;  laid  out  with  walks  ;  cut  through  its  whole 
length  by  the  Avenue  des  Champs  Elysees,  through 
which  all  the  aristocratic  carriages  drive,  every  after- 
15 


168  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

noon,  going  to  or  returning  from  the  Bois  de  Bou- 
logne ;  full  of  arrangements  for  out-of-door  amuse- 
ments, and  studded  at  every  turn  with  cafes  chan- 
tantes  (singing  coffee-houses),  cafes  for  refreshment, 
etc, ;  and  with  thousands  of  chairs,  kept  for  che^p 
hire  by  the  hour,  in  which  the  tourist  can  sit  when 
tired  and  see  the  procession  of  fashion  and  oddity 
roll  by.  Before  leaving  the  Champs,  a  glimpse  should 
be  caught  of  the  Elysee  Napoleon,  an  old  palace, 
once  the  Elysee  Bourbon,  at  the  noilh  side,  where 
Napoleon  signed  his  abdication,  while  the  whole 
building  has  had  an  intimate  connection  with  French 
history.  Return  towards  the  centre  of  the  city,  if 
boarding  there,  as  supposed,  by  the 

Column  in  the  Place  Voiddme,  a  splendid  spirally- 
wreathed  pillar,  erected  by  Napoleon  in  honor  of  his 
victories,  and  covered  with  emblematic  figures  of  his 
campaigns,  as  well  as  topped  with  a  figure  of  the  Em- 
peror.  The  day  may  properly  be  finished  by  a  visit  to 

T/ie  Jfadeleme,  one  of  the  handsomest  churches  in 
Paris  or  the  world — pure  Grecian,  with  surrounding 
of  splendid  columns,  and  statues  in  niches,  outside ; 
and  with  elaborate  architecture,  marvellously  rich 
altars  and  altar-services,  and  some  chefs  cVceuvres  in 
p'ainting  and  sculpture,  over  the  altars  and  employed 
as  altar-pieces.  At  no  other  of  the  Parisian  churches, 
either,  can  better  views  be  caught  of  the  uniformed 
and  sworded  vergers  connected  with  the  churches, 
who  seem  a  cross  between  a  police-oiRcer  and  a  ma- 
jor-general. The  evening  of  this  day  may  well  be 
spent  in  catching  a  first  glimpse  by  gaslight  of  some 
portions  of 


AV  FRANCE.  169 

The  I^oulevards,  very  wide  tree-bordered  streets, 
commencing  at  the  Madeleine  on  the  west,  and  run- 
ning, Avith  different  names,  across  and  around  the 
principal  portions  of  Paris,  to  the  Place  de  la  Bastille 
at  the  east.  They  are  lined,  throughout,  with  shops, 
brilliant  with  articles  for  sale  ;  Avith  open  cafes  for 
refreshments  within  or  on  the  side-walk;  and  no 
spectacle  in  the  world  is  more  brilliant  than  that 
presented  on  the  Boulevards  Italiens,  des  Capucines, 
Montniartre,  etc.,  every  evening  from  dusk  till  mid- 
night, all  nations,  dresses,  languages,  and  characters 
mingling  in  splendid  confusion  and  forming  one  of 
the  most  attractive  features  of  Paris. 

(Second  Day.) — This  day  a  cab  should  be  taken, 
by  the  hour,  as  the  distances  to  be  made  are  much 
greater.  The  first  visit  may  well  be  paid  to  the  out- 
side and  inside  of 

The  Bourse,  the  great  stock-exchange  of  Paris, 
France,  and  half  Europe,  a  splendid  colonnaded 
building,  with  a  magnificent  and  very  large  gal- 
leried  hall  within,  surrounded  by  the  names  of  the 
chief  cities  of  France,  where  stock  operations  are 
carried  on.  (If  a  spare  hour  should  chance  to  allow, 
a  second  visit  here,  at  noon  or  a  little  later,  would 
be  well  repaid  by  hearing  what  Frenchmen  on 
'Change  can  do  in  the  way  of  gabbling  and  gesticu- 
lating.)    From  the  Bourse  to  the 

Palais  Royal,  once  a  royal  palace,  as  its  name  in- 
dicates, and  still  retaining  the  galleries  and  immense 
and  beautiful  gardens  of  that  occupation,  within  its 
extensive  quadrangle — but  now  the  most  extensive 
collection  of  shops  and  restaurants  in  the  world  (the 


170  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

latter  including  tlie  celebrated  "  Trois  Freres  Proven- 
caux,"  "  Yerys "  and  other  well-known  and  costly 
habitats  of  luxury.  Passing  towards  the  lie  de  la 
Cite,  be  sure  to  look  out  for  and  note,  in  passing, 
the 

Tour  St.  Jacques  (Tower  of  St.  James),  a  splen- 
did Gothic  tower  of  great  height  and  beauty ;  the 
very  old  and  odd-looking 

Church  of  St.  Germain  VAuxerrois,  from  which 
tolled  out,  from  the  bell  still  hanging  (as  is  said),  the 
tocsin  for  the  awful  Massacre  of  St.  Bartholomew ; 
and  to  visit  the 

Church  of  St.  Hoch,  on  the  still-standing  stejjs  of 
which  took  place  one  of  the  bloodiest  fights  of  the 
Revolution  (that  of  the  13th  Yeudemiaire)  ;  while 
the  chui-ch  has  the  distinction  of  giving  the  best 
music  in  Paris,  of  possessing  much  internal  beauty 
and  splendor,  and  of  showing  many  fine  pictures, 
among  others  a  "  St.  Roch,  Preaching,"  by  Aiy 
Scheffer,  with  the  most  wonderful  of  golden  lights 
shed  on  it  through  the  stained  glass  above. 

The  Church  of  St.  JEicstache,  where  a  common 
courtesan  was  once  enthroned  in  the  place  of  God, 
should  also  be  seen ;  and  near  it,  the 

Halles  Centrales,  or  Central  Market  of  Paris,  with 
its  extent  and  peculiarities.  So  much  done,  it  is  well 
to  cross  to  the 

lie  de  la  Cite,  noticing,  on  going  over  the  bri<lge, 
the  round,  pointed-capped  lowers,  studding  the 
water's  edge  at  the  right  side  of  the  island,  of 

The  Conciergerie,  the  terrible  prison  in  which 
Marie  Antoinette  was  confined  before  her  execution, 


IN'  FRANCE.  17] 

and  from  which  so  many  hundreds  of  victims  went 
forth  to  the  guillotine,  during  tlie  Reign  of  Terror. 
The  unfortunate  Queen's  room  may  still  be  seen, 
within,  by  those  who  have  time  to  visit  it ;  and  also 
on  the  upper  end  of  the  same  island,  for  those  who 
have  both  time  and  inclination,  are  the 

Palace  of  Justice.,  a  line  old  building,  with  many 
historical  reminiscences,  and 

The  Morgue,  the  celebrated  dead-house  in  which 
the  bodies  of  people  "found  drowned"  are  exhibited 
for  identification.  But  the  principal  attraction  to 
the  He  de  la  Cite  is  found  in  the  magnificent 

Notre  Dame.,  one  of  the  architectural  glories  of 
Paris  and  the  world — Avith  two  immense  square  tow- 
ers, wonderful  architectural  effects  in  the  portals  and 
Avhole  elaborate  front,  and  some  of  the  finest  Gothic 
arches  in  Europe  in  the  vast  interior.  Xotre  Dame 
has,  in  addition,  a  wealth  of  stained-glass  windows 
of  rare  size  and  excellence  ;  some  sj)lendid  side-chap- 
els ;  a  magnificent  High  Altar,  at  which  Napoleon 
and  Josephine  were  crowned ;  and  the  additional 
celebrity  of  being  the  spot  round  which  (see  the 
novel  for  explanations — published  in  Englisli  under 
the  title  of  the  "  Hunchback  of  Notre  Dame  ")  Vic- 
tor Hugo  wove  his  great  novel,  "Notre  Dame  de 
Paris."  It  is,  perhaps,  the  most  impressive  ecclesi- 
astical object  in  Paris,  and  scarcely  expelled  in  Eu- 
rope in  either  grandeur  or  historical  association.  (At 
the  door  of  Notre  Dame  is  the  place  for  making 
arrangements  for  carriage  to  Vei-sailles — as  thei*e 
is  a  specialty  of  the  master  of  those  excursions 
always  keeping  in  readiness  for  any  day  and  liav- 


172  SnORT-TEIP   GUIDE. 

ing  an  agent  there  for  that  purpose.  Inquire  for 
Mons.  Dulorin.) 

Crossing  back  to  the  north  side  of  the  Seine,  from 
the  He  de  la  Cite,  a  visit  should  at  once  he  paid  to 
the 

Hotel  de  Yille  (City  Hall),  standing  on  the  river 
bank,  opposite  the  island,  and  very  pleasing  in  its  an- 
tique architecture,  at  the  same  time  that  it  possesses 
the  very  highest  historical  interest.  A  visit  should 
be  paid  to  the  inside  of  this  great  municipal  build- 
ing, as  many  of  its  interior  ajipointments  are  quite 
equal  to  those  of  any  palace  on  the  globe — line  pic- 
tures, statuary,  costly  hangings,  etc.  Immediately 
in  front  of  it  is  the 

Place  de  la  Hotel  de  Ville,  now  merely  an  open 
space,  but  formerly  the  Place  de  Greve,  where  the 
great  body  of  the  executions  by  the  guillotine  took 
place  during  the  Reign  of  Terror,  and  where  it  is 
estimated  that  not  less  than  thirty  thousand  persons 
fell  by  that  colossal  "  chopping-knife.^'  It  is  almost 
impossible,  even  now,  to  look  upon  it  without  a 
shudder  and  a  suspicion  that  the  ground  must  still 
remain  soaked  with  blood. 

From  the  Hotel  de  Ville  the  ride  is  a  brief  one, 
through  the  Faubourg  St.  Antoine — what  is  known 
as  peculiarly  the  " dangerous  quarter"  of  Paris,  to 
the  place  where  the  Bastille  stood  and  was  destroyed. 
During  t\ns  ride,  a  few  moments  may  be  well  spent 
in  stopping  at  some  one  of  the  numerous  poor-look- 
ing wine-shops,  for  some  excuse,  to  observe  the  places 
where  the  dangerous  "Jacquerie"  met  at  and  before 
the  Revolution — well  described  bv  Dickens  in  his 


IX  FRAXCE.  173 

"  Title  of  Two  Cities."  This  section  of  Paris  is  very 
old  and  squalid-looking,  and  is  not  the  j)lace  for 
night-rambles,  however  efficient  the  i^olice.  This 
brings  us,  however,  to  the 

Place  de  la  Pastille,  the  spot  where  stood  the 
great  fortress  of  oppression,  Avhere  it  was  torn  down 
with  such  threatening  demonstrations  in  1789,  and 
where  now  stands  the 

Column  of  July,  a  tall  and  very  handsome  fluted 
column,  crowned  with  a  iigure  of  jMercury,  and 
erected  in  honor  of  those  who  fell  in  the  street-fights 
of  the  RevoliTtion  of  1830,  when  Charles  X.  was 
driven  from  the  throne. 

Beyond  the  Place  de  la  Bastille,  at  no  very  great 
distance,  the  tourist  passes  between  the  two  buildings 
of  the  great  criminal  prison  of  La  Roquette,  hand- 
somely built,  like  fortresses,  and  in  the  court-yard 
of  which  most  of  the  executions  by  the  guillotine,  of 
the  past  years,  have  taken  place.  Beyond,  Aery 
soon,  all  appearances  indicate  the  approach-  to  a 
great  cemetery,  especially  in  the  number  of  cheap 
and  tawdry  articles  for  the  decoration  of  graves,  kept 
for  sale  on  either  hand.    Then  comes  the  gateway  of 

Pere  la  Chaise,  the  great  cemetery  of  Paris,  and 
renowned  throughout  the  world  for  the  vast  number 
of  its  distinguished  dead.  As  a  cemetery,  and  com- 
pared with  American  grounds  of  the  same  character, 
it  is  a  humbug  and  a  swindle,  having  little  or  noth- 
ing of  the  beauty  of  either  Greenwood,  Mount 
Auburn  or  Laurel  Hill,  and  not  to  be  mentioned 
beside  Glasnevin  Cemetery,  at  Dublin.  Carriages 
are  not  allowed  to  enter  ;  and  half  to  three-quartei-s 


174  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

of  an  hour's  walk  is  quite  sufficient  to  observe  its 
street-rows  of  square  tombs,  witb  streets  between 
them ;  its  occasional  spots  of  well-shaded  beauty  ; 
the  miserable  shabbiness  of  its  poor-quarter  (at  the 
back),  huddled  together,  with  wooden  crosses  and 
cheap  wreaths;  its  little  chapel  on  the  top  of  the 
eminence,  with  altar  and  religious  statues  within, 
and  a  fine  view  of  Paris  from  in  front  of  it ;  and  the 
tombs  of  Marshal  Ney  and  a  few  others,  with  the 
splendid  chapel-tomb  of  Abelard  and  Heloise,  one  of 
the  pilgrimages  of  the  cemetery,  lying  not  far  from 
the  lower  right-hand  corner,  taking  the  point  of  view 
from  the  entrance. 

This  round,  witli  the  direct  drive  back  to  the 
place  of  lodging,  may  Avell  have  filled  the  day  pretty 
closely ;  but  there  may  still  remain  spirit  and  wish 
for  an  evening  ride  to  the  Champs  Elysees,  to  see  its 
night-beauty  of  lights  and  breadth  of  gayety,  to  sup 
at  some  one  of  its  many  cafes,  and  perhaps  to  spend 
an  hour  of  the  earlier  evening  at  the 

Alcazar  dPJEtt^  one  of  the  most  noted  of  the  open- 
air  concert  establishments,  where  good  singing  is  a 
certainty,  and  a  later  hour,  or  two,  at  the 

Jardin  Mahille,  an  exquisitely-wooded  and  shrub- 
beried  circle,  flashing  with  lights  and  supplying 
dancing-music  all  the  evening,  lying  on  the  Avenue 
Montaigne,  at  the  Rond  Point  and  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  the  Avenue  des  Champs  Elysees — where 
the  gayer  varieties  of  Parisian  life  may  be  witnessed 
by  those  so  inclined,  and  where  the  cancan  may  be 
enjoyed  in  what  the  Parisians  (and  some  of  the 
Americans)  consider  its  "  purity." 


IN  FEAXCE.  175 

(Third  Day.) — Cab  again,  for  only  a  short  dis- 
tance, to  the 

Hotel  Cluny^  site  of  the  old  Roman  Palais  des 
Therm.es,  part  of  the  walls  of  which  yet  remain, 
while  the  Hotel  itself  contains  a  very  interesting 
collection  of  antiquities  (among  other  things  the 
celebrated  ivory-lock.,  which  "  must  be  seen  to  be 
appreciated  "),  chapel  where  James  lY.  of  Scotland 
was  married,  etc.  Thence  over  the  Seine,  by  any 
one  of  the  numerous  bridges,  to  the 

Champ  de  3Iars,  for  a  long  time  the  great  parade- 
ground  of  Paris,  full  of  historical  recollections  of  the 
Revolution  and  the  First  Napoleon,  witli  the  splendid 
and  extensive  buildings  of  the  Ecole  Imperial  Mili- 
taire  bounding  it  at  the  end  oi)posite  to  the  river.  In 
the  centre  of  this,  as  many  thousand  Americans  for- 
tunately know  from  recollection,  stood  the  Great 
Exposition  Palace  of  1867,  while  tlie  whole  Champ 
w^as  turned  into  a  magnificent  park,  filled  with  floral 
and  arboricultural  treasures  and  the  buildings  of  all 
nations.  Within  sight  of  the  Champ  de  Mars,  to  the 
left  and  behind,  diagonally,  comes  the  great  point 
of  int-erest  of  the  day,  the 

Hotel  des  Invalides,  an  immense  structure  for 
military  hospital  purposes,  built  by  Louis  XIV., 
afterward  taken  up  by  Napoleon,  and  still  used  for 
that  noble  end.  The  princijjal  points  of  interest  to 
be  visited  are  the  Ofiicers'  and  Soldiers'  Refectories, 
with  their  scarred  veterans,  odd  arrangements,  old 
pictures  of  Louis  XIY.'s  battles,  etc. ;  the  picture- 
galleries,  with  much  trash,  but  some  valuable  kingly 
reminiscences;  the  Chapel,  where  the  rotting  battle- 


176  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

flags,  from  the  Oriflamme  of  St.  Louis  to  those  taken 
at  Sebastopol,  hang  and  moulder ;  and  the  Domed 
Church,  commonly  spoken  of  as 

'■'■  The  Dome  of  the  Invalides^''  at  the  oj)posite  ex- 
tremity of  the  entrance,  and  entered  separately  from 
without,  in  a  sunken  sp"ace  within  the  floor  of  whicli, 
in  a  green  marble  sarcophagus,  surrounded  by  his 
mouldering  battle-flags,  and  weeping  figures  in  mar- 
ble, lies  the  body  of  the  First  Napoleon.  The  Church 
is  very  beautiful  within ;  and  the  High  Altar  and 
the  light  shed  upon  it  are  peculiarly  fine ;  while 
handsome  monuments  to  Joseph  Bonaparte,  Turenne, 
Vauban,  etc.,  are  to  be  seen,  besides  the  veterans  of 
the  First  Empire,  who  there  keep  guard  against  any 
impropriety  of  action  on  the  part  of  the  ever-pressing 
crowd. 

While  on  this  side  of  the  Seine,  should  be  visited, 
too, 

The  Panthkon,  largest  of  the  churches  of  Paris, 
and  one  of  the  finest,  with  magnificent  side-chapels 
(especially  that  of  St,  Genevieve,  with  its  gilded 
screen) ;  burial  of  Voltaire,  Rousseau,  Mirabeau,Mai'- 
shal  Lannes,  Bougainville  and  many  others,  in  the 
vault  below ;  and  noble  inscription  over  the  front  (in 
French) :  "  To  the  Great  Men  Remembei-ed  by  their 
Country,"     Then  comes  the 

Church  of  St.  Etienne  du  Mont^  near  the  Pan- 
theon, very  beautiful  within,  and  especially  noted  for 
its  sj)lendid  spiral  stairway,  unique  in  architecture, 
and  some  of  its  exquisite  side-chapels.  Glimpses 
may  also  be  caught  of  St.  Sulpice  and  other  cliurch- 
es ;  and  a  visit  should  be  paid  to  the  ncigbboring 


7.y  FRAXCE.  177 

Palace  of  the  Luxemhourg ,  one  of  the  largest 
and  finest  of  the  royal  reminders,  with  its  splendid 
collection  of  pictures  and  antiquities ;  and  on  the 
return  homeward,  corresjjonding*  glimpses  may  be 
caught,  on  the  Seine  bank,  of  the 

Corps  Legislatif,  or  Congress  Hall  of  France, 
and  many  other  public  buildings,  certain  to  be  called 
to  attention  by  guide  or  driver. 

A  third  evening  has  now  been  found  for  any 
theatre  or  opera-house  that  may  be  chosen. 

(Fourth  Day.) — Take  open  carriage  (weather  al- 
lowing, as  generally  in  Paris  at  midsummer),  for  Ver- 
sailles by  Sevres.  (Twelve  to  twenty  francs  per  per- 
son— two-and-a-half  to  four  dollars  gold — will  easily 
supply  an  excellent  conveyance  for  the  day,  with 
guide,  coachman,  and  fees  paid.)  The  drive  will  be 
through  tiie  Champs  Elysees,  by  the  Avenue,  to  the 
end  at  the  extreme  height,  where  stands  the 

Arc  cVEtoile,  a  magnificent  scul2)tured  arch,  the 
largest  in  Europe,  erected  by  Napoleon  to  commem- 
orate his  victories  of  1805,  and  the  colossal  sculp- 
tures having  reference  to  him.  The  ascent  to  the 
top  of  the  Arc,  which  commands  the  finest  of  views 
over  Paris,  is  a  matter  of  time,  taste,  and  legs.  It 
is  a  better  thing  to  say  one  has  done,  than  to  do. 
Beyond  the  Arc,  and  driving  down  the  Avenue  de 
I'Imperatrice,  by  the  Porte  Dauphine,  is  almost  im- 
mediately entered 

The  Hois  de  JBoulogne,  a  splendid  wood,  once 
and  a  quarter  the  size  of  the  New  York  Central 
Park,  with  unlimited  expense  lavished  on  its  walks 
and  drives;  with  two  beautiful  lakes  (Lac  Superieure 


178  SHORT-TBIP   GUILE. 

and  Lac  Inferieure),  for  pleasure-boating;  a  cascade 
at  the  extremity,  of  peculiar  artificial  grace  (the 
Cascade  de  Longchamps) ;  the  Emperor's  race-course 
of  Longchamps  in  full  view  at  the  farther  extremity ; 
and  all  the  peculiarities  going  to  make  up  the  hand- 
somest pleasure-ground  in  Europe — though  nothing 
finer,  nor  so  fine,  in  bridges  or  other  erections,  as  the 
Central  Park  will  be  when  it  has  age  and  tree- 
growth.  (The  return  from  Versailles  is  also  to  be 
made  through  the  Bois,  at  that  early  hour  in  the 
evening  when  all  the  fashionable  riders  of  Paris  and 
half  Europe  roll  along  these  splendid  drives  in  their 
carriages,  with  horsemen  in  abundance,  and  an  un- 
limited quantity  of  foot  people  and  couples  of  stroll- 
ing lovers,  taking  the  shady  walks  or  lounging  under 
the  trees,  not  warned  to  "  keep  oif  the  grass,"  as  in 
American  pleasure-grounds.) 

Not  far  beyond  the  Bois  de  Boulogne  the  Seine 
is  crossed,  with  a  view  of 

St.  Cloudy  another  of  the  royal-imperial  resi- 
dences, palace  and  park ;  and  not  far  beyond  comes 

Shvres,  a  small  town,  of  which  the  only  attrac- 
tion is  the  imperial  manufactory  of  porcelains,  where 
tourists  are  allowed  to  inspect  some  of  the  most 
splendid  works  of  art,  in  that  line,  made  in  any  coun- 
try.    A  few  miles  farther  bring 

Yeesailles,  palace  and  park,  considered  one  of  the 
wonders  of  the  world,  even  among  royal  residences. 
Built'  by  Louis  XIV.,  and  ever  since  more  or  less 
constantly  occupied  as  one  of  the  favorite  residences 
of  the  ruler.  Among  the  curiosities  to  be  seen  here, 
are  the 


IX  FILiXCE.  179 

Great  Picture  -  Galleries  of  tlie  palace,  filled  Y\-itli 
rare  and  valuable  works  in  painting',  sculpture  and 
antiquities  (the  rooms  said  to  measure  some  eight 
miles  in  extent)  ;  the 

Napoleon  and  Josephine  Rooms,  Avith  the  beds, 
chairs,  tables,  and  many  other  memorials  of  both ; 
the 

Trianon^  with  sedan-chaii-s  and  other  memorials 
of  Madame  de  Maintenon ;  the 

Fountain  of  Latona,  and  other  fountains  in  im- 
mense profusion — considered  among  the  finest  in  the 
world;  the 

Gardens  and  Flower -Walks,  likewise  considered 
unequalled ;  the 

Parle,  of  wondrous  extent  and  breadth  of  shade, 
with  its  culmination  in  the  "  Tapis  Vert,"  voted  as 
the  finest  avenue  of  shade  and  sward  in  Europe, 
and  with  Louis  XV.'s  "Petit  Trianon"  hidden 
away  at  some  distance  from  the  palace  and  nearer 
grounds. 

Dinner  should  be  taken,  this  daj^  at  the  Hotel 
du  Reservoir,  once  the  residence  of  Louis  XV.'s 
chere  amie,  Madame  de  Pompadoui-,  and  a  favorite  re- 
sort of  gourmands  and  fashionables ;  after  which 
the  drive  back,  through  the  Bois  de  Boulogne  (be- 
fore alluded  to)  should  include  a  visit  of  a  few  mo- 
ments to  the 

Pre  Catelan,  an  inner  beauty  of  the  Bois,  more 
glorious  in  flowers  and  foliage  than  any  other  por- 
tion, with  an  oddly-pretty  little  open-air  summer 
theatre ;  and  if  time  should  serve,  then  or  otherwise, 

an  hour  in  the 
16 


180  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

'  Jar  din  cP  Acclimatization,  a  sort  of  floral  and 
zoological  garden,  also  witliin  the  Bois,  especially 
noted  for  its  variety  of  rare  birds,  goats,  and  the 
more  harmless  animals. 

(Fifth  Day.) — All  this  day,  if  possible,  should  be 
spent  in  viewing  the  outside  and  wandering  through 
the  galleries  of 

77ie  Louvre,  once  a  royal  palace,  but  now  the 
most  extensive  museum  in  the  world  (with  perhaps 
the  exception  of  the  British),  adjoining  the  Palace  of 
the  Tuileries  on  the  east,  and  of  course  reached  on 
foot.  Amon^  its  notable  features,  apart  from  the 
extent  and  beauty  of  the  building  itself,  will  be 
found  the 

Great  Picture -Galleries,  of  which  the  extent, 
filled  with  rare  paintings,  sculpture  and  curiosities, 
is  said  to  be  about  ten  miles,  affording  one  of  the 
costliest  and  most  celebrated  of  collections.  Chief 
among  these  is  the 

Grand  Gallery,  filled  with  works  by  the  gi-eat 
painters  of  antiquity,  scarcely  a  notable  name  unrep- 
resented, and  the  whole  rivalling  the  galleries  of  the 
Vatican  at  Rome  and  Escurial  at  JMadiid.  Xext  in 
importance,  to  the  tourist,  are  two  apartments  in  what 
is  called  the  "  Museum  of  Napoleon  III." — first  the 

Royal  Antiquity  Chamber,  where  may  be  seen 
the  sword  and  sceptre  of  Charlemagne,  the  armor 
woj'n  by  Henry  IV.  at  Ivry,  the  armor  and  swords 
of  many  of  the  other  kings,  the  prayer-books  of 
Mary  Queen  of  Scots  and  Marie  de  Medicis,  etc. ; 
and  next  and  even  more  important,  the 

Napoleon  Rootn,  where  are  to  be  found  the  core- 


IN  FRANCE.  181 

nation  robes  of  the  First  Emperor,  his  camp-chest, 
camp-hed,  clothes  Avorn  at  St.  Helena,  and  a  hun- 
dred, other  aiFecting  memorials  of  the  Great  Corsican, 
attracting  undivided  attention  and  interest. 

These  comprise,  of  course,  only  a  fraction  of  the 
attractions  of  the  Louvre,  but  they  may  be  all  that 
the  short-trip  traveller  can  command.  To  those  who 
have  abundance  of  time,  abundance  of  other  objects 
will  present  themselves,  without  any  necessity  of 
present  mention.  The  Apollo  and  Vernet  Galleries, 
however,  should  not  be  passed  without  notice ; 
and  the  same  may  be  said  of  the  Hall  of  the  Seven 
Chimneys,  where  Henry  IV.  died  after  being  stabbed. 
by  Ravaillac. 

(Sixth  Day.) — Visit,  at  some  six  miles  from  Paris 
(by  cab),  the 

Cathedral  Church  of  St.  Denis,  in  the  old  town 
of  the  same  name,  where  the  French  kings  have  been 
buried,  ever  since  the  time  of  Dagobert,  and  Av^here 
many  interesting  monuments  and  memorials  of  them 
can  be  found,  though  the  revolutionary  mob  tore 
open  their  coffins  and  threw  the  bones  into  ditches, 
in  '93,  to  have  them  restored  with  difficulty  (!)  in 
1816.  The  Cathedral  is  itself  very  fine  in  architec- 
ture, with  some  of  the  best  stained  glass  in  France  ; 
and  the  vaults  may  be  visited  by  those  ambitious  of 
royal  mould  and  damp. 

The  St.  Denis  excursion  can  easily  be  made  in 
half  a  day;  and  this,  wath  six  days  to  remain,  leaves 
half  a  day  for  "  chores." 

One  fact,  however,  should  be  mentioned.  Some 
of  the  buildings  which  most  positively  require  to  be 


182  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

entered,  are  only  open  on  certain  days  ;  and  the  suc- 
cession of  days  here  marked  out  may  sometimes  re- 
quire to  be  changed  accordingly,  though  with  proper 
arrangement  the  order  of  any  one  day  will  not  need 
to  be  so  changed.  All  the  churches,  except  Xotre 
Dame,  are  open  every  day:  that,  on  Wednesdays, 
Fridays  and  Sundays,  11  to  4.  The  Tomb  of  Napo- 
leon, at  the  Invalides,  can  only  be  seen  on  Mondays 
and  Thursdays,  12  to  3.  The  Bourse  is  open  every 
day.  Hotel  Cluny,  every  day,  11  to  5.  Palace  of 
the  Luxembourg,  every  day,  10  to  4.  Louvre,  every 
day  except  Monday,  12  to  4.  Versailles,  eveiy  day 
except  Monday.  St.  Denis,  and  all  the  public  gar- 
dens, grounds  and  monuments,  every  day. 

Not  many  visitors  to  Paris  need  to  be  told  tliat 
Sunday  is  the  liveliest  day  of  the  week,  with  every- 
thing open  to  the  gay ;  while  the  more  serious  can 
find  service  in  all  the  churches,  and  splendid  choral 
services  in  the  principal  ones. 

For  those  who  have  longer  time  to  spend  at  and 
about  the  capital,  there  are  of  course  fifty  additional 
points  of  interest  not  here  named — among  others, 
the  Conservatory  of  Arts  and  Measures,  the  Mint 
(Hotel  des  Monnaies),  the  Gobelin  Tapestry  Manu- 
factory, the  Jardin  des  Plantes  (natural  history),  the 
School  of  Fine  Arts,  the  Museum  of  Artillery,  the 
Palace  of  Fine  Arts,  etc.,  etc. 

As  to  theatre-going — for  grand  opera,  the  Grand 
Opera  is  to  be  visited ;  for  light  opera,  the  Opera 
Comique  or  the  Varieties  is  preferable  ;  for  comedy, 
the  Theatre  Fran9ais ;  for  spectacle,  the  Porte  St. 
Martin. 


XIII. 

PAEIS  TO  GENEVA. 

[Before  briefly  sketching  this  route  aud  the  short  Swiss  tour 
to  follow,  it  may  be  well  to  say  that  there  is  an  Englishman  named 
Thomas  Cook,  who  has  agencies  in  London,  Paris  and  some  other 
cities,  for  arranging  "  Excursions  "  and  selling  through  tickets  for 
certain  routes  and  return,  at  much  less  than  the  regular  fares  de- 
manded (first  or  second  class,  optional) ;  and  that  for  those  who 
leave  Paris  for  Switzei;land  and  Germany,  to  return  there,  he  may 
be  dealt  with  to  advantage — one  of  the  benefits  of  the  "  Cook's 
Tourist  Tickets"  being  the  saving  of  much  inconvenience  in  pur- 
chasing route-tickets  at  the  various  line-intersections.] 

Leave  Paris  for  Geneva  by  the  early  morning  train 
of  the  Lyons  and  Mediterranean  Railway,  breakfast- 
ing before  starting.  Never  take  the  afternoon  train, 
as  by  that  means  much  fine  scenery  would  inevitably 
be  lost  on  one  portion  of  the  route  or  another;  and 
never  arrange  to  go  the  whole  distance  without  stop- 
ping, for  the  same  reason.  Those  who  leave  Paris 
in  the  morning  and  go  directly  through,  travelling 
all  night,  lose  the  Valley  of  the  Rhone,  one  of  the 
finest  in  Europe ;  and  those  who  leave  in  the  after- 
noon lose  the  views  of  the  vineyards  and  rural  sce- 
nery of  Southern  France. 

The  train  passes,  a  few  miles  from  Paris,  running 
southeastward,  by  the  town  of  Melun,  and 

Fontainehleu,  tower  and  old  royal  residence,  pal- 
ace and  park,  of  which  a  mere  glimpse  is  caught  from 
the  train.   The  scenery  is  flat  and  tame,  but  "  French  " 


184  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

and  interesting,  during  all  the  early  part  of  this  day. 
Many  river-glimpses  are  caught — ^first  of  the  Seine, 
and  then  of  the  quiet  little  Yvonne,  the  banks  of 
which  are  very  closely  followed  by  the  railway,  all 
the  way  to 

Tonnerre  (English,  "thunder"),  a  town  of  no  par- 
ticular mark,  where  the  halt  is  made  for  dinner,  and 
an  exceedingly  good  one  {table  cVhote)  always  pro- 
vided. The  second  halt  of  consequence  is  made,  two 
or  three  hours  later,  at 

Dijon,  a  fine  old  city,  with  abundance  of  histori- 
cal reminiscences  but  little  time  to  note  them  and  still 
catch  a  trifle  of  supper.  At  Dijon  the  course  changes 
to  almost  due  south,  terminating,  at  nearly  nightfall, 
at 

Macon,  on  the  river  Saone,  famous  for  its  wines, 
and  well  worthy  of  the  evening  spent  before  retiring, 
and  the  next  morning  before  train-time, — to  see  its 
little  "Champs  Elysees,"  where  the  people  amuse 
themselves  in  the  evening,  d  la  Paris ;  its  odd  old 
streets,  fountain  and  market ;  its  odder  people,  hand- 
some modem  church,  river  with  boats  running  down 
to  Lyons,  etc.  Sleep  at  Macon,  and  leave  next  morn- 
ing by  train  for  Geneva. 

Cars  are  changed  at  Bourg,  and  again  at  Amhe- 
rieux,  to  catch  the  train  up  from  Lyons ;  but  some 
pleasant  glimpses  of  the  Saone  and  the  distant  moun- 
tains eastward  compensate  for  this  inflection.  Very 
soon  after  leaving  Amberieux  commences  the  ascent 
of  the 

Valley  of  the  Rhone,  one  of  the  wildest  and  most 
picturesque  on   either  continent;   the  road  passing 


PARIS  TO   GENEVA.  185 

over  steep  inclines  and  tbroug-h  narrow  rock-bound 
passes,  until  reacliing 

Culoz,  Avhere  tlie  scenery  becomes  yet  wilder  and 
grander,  with  the  Rhone  spanned  by  bridges,  tun- 
nelled for  miles,  rolling  hundreds  of  feet  below 
(something  like  Niagara  below  the  Falls,  but  much 
wilder),  and  presenting  one  of  the  most  splendid  bits 
of  engineering  in  any  land — the  "  Tunnel  de  Credo," 
2^  miles  in  length,  and  the  "Valserino  Viaduct," 
rival  of  the  Starucea,  being  among  tlie  most  notable 
features,  and  ever-memorable  glimpses  of  the  distant 
Swiss  mountains  are  caught,  in  tine  weathei',  from 
Culoz,  onward ;  but  it  is  only  on  reaching 

Sellegarde,  where  the  route  changes  from  France 
to  Switzerland,  that  in  the  clearest  weather  is  caught 
the 

First  glimpse  of  3Iont  Ulanc,  QightY  or  one  hun- 
dred miles  to  the  right,  with  the  Aiguillettes  and 
other  points  of  the  great  snow  range  of  Savoy.  (In 
order  to  have  even  the  chance  of  catching  this  never- 
to-be-forgotten  first  glimpse,  the  right-hand  side  of 
the  carriage  is  desirable.) 

One  to  two  hours  after  entering  the  Swiss  terri- 
tory, all  the  while  running  through  the  passes  and 
plunging  across  the  ravines  of  the  Jura  range  of 
mountains,  is  reached  the  end  of  that  special  jour- 
ney, and  one  of  the  most  beautiful,  beautifully-locat- 
ed and  historic  cities  of  Europe, 

Geneva  ! 


XIY. 

SHORT  TRIPS  IN  SWITZERLAND. 
GENEVA   AND   CHILLOK. 

Geneva,  charmingly  situated,  as  already  indi- 
cated, lies  at  the  extreme  southwestern  point  of  the 
Lake  of  Geneva,  otherwise  known  as  Lake  Leman. 
It  stands  on  both  sides  the  lake-foot,  and  of  the 
Rhone,  which  here  debouches  from  it.  The  views 
from  it  are  perhaps  unequalled  by  those  from  any 
other  city  on  the  globe,  the  lake  spreading  away  far 
to  the  north  and  east,  the  fine  dark  range  of  the  Jura 
in  full  view  to  the  north  and  west,  and  the  nearer 
mountains  of  the  southern  side  of  the  lake  (called  by 
Cooper,  in  the  "Headsman,"  the  "ramparts  of  Sa- 
voy ")  showing  to  the  southeast,  with  Mt.  Blanc  and 
the  other  giants  of  the  snow-range  always  visible  in 
fine  weather. 

The  city  is  very  old,  and  has  much  historical  in- 
terest, especially  as  connected  with  the  wars  of  Sa- 
voy, and  with  John  Calvin  (who  preached  and  resided 
here),  and  many  of  the  events  of  the  Reformation. 
It  probably  contains  about  50,000  inhabitants ,  has 
many  manufactures ;  and  is  celebrated,  world-wide, 
for  its  construction  of  the  popular  Swiss  watches. 
The  most  interesting  of  all  its  buildings  is 

The  Cathedral  (St.  Pierre),  built  about  1050,  a 
noble  Gothic  building,  containing  the  tombs  of  Duke 


IX  SWITZEELAXD.  187 

Henry  de  Rohan  and  the  Coiiite  d'Aubigny,  Frencli 
Protestant  leaders  under  Lonis  XIII.  and  Henry  IV. ; 
and  (under  the  pavement)  of  Cardhiul  Jean  de  Brog- 
nier,  President  of  the  Council  of  Constance,  and  other 
ecclesiastical  celebrities;  and  the  canopy  of  the  pul- 
pit (not  the  pulpit  itself,  as  sometimes  alleged)  onee 
filled  by  Calvin.  The  arches  and  stained  glass,  and 
the  old  presbyters'  stalls,  are  very  line ;  and  the 
echo  of  music  or  the  voice  is  peculiarly  notable. 
Next  in  interest  to  the  Cathedral,  come  the 

Hotel  de  Ville,  and  the  Arsenal,  in  the  latter  of 
which  the  collection  of  arms  is  very  fine.  After 
these,  the  next  are  the 

Musee  Roth  (a  Museum),  Avith  a  very  fine  collec- 
tion of  pictures  and  sculpture,  and  the 

Mus'ee  Academique,  with  antiquities,  geological 
collection  and  reading-room ;  and 

MoitsseaiCs  House,  near  the  latter.  But  quite  as 
interesting  as  any  of  the  buildings,  after  the  Cathe- 
dral, are  the 

Bridges  —  the  beautiful  Pont  des  Bergues  and 
Pont  du  Mont  Blanc,  spanning  the  river  at  the  centre 
of  the  city,  while  from  the  former  shoots  out  a  little 
shaded  island,  of  peculiar  beauty,  forming  a  fiivorite 
promenade,  known  as 

JRoiisseaiCs  Garden  (He  de  J.  J.  Rousseau),  so 
named  from  its  having  been  a  favorite  resort  of  the 
author  of  "  Abelard  "  and  the  "  Confessions."  The 
promenades  along  the  quais,  on  both  sides,  are  very 
delightful,  with  their  views  of  the  lake,  the  odd 
lateen-rigged  schooners,  the  distant  mountains,  etc. ; 
and  especially  delightful  is  the 


188  SHORT-TEIP   GUIDE. 

Jardin  Anglais  (English  Garden),  overhanging 
the  waters  on  the  south  side,  where  military  concerts 
are  given  almost  every  evening  during  the  summer. 
(It  should  be  added,  that  nearly  or  quite  all  worth 
seeing  in  Geneva  can  be  better  seen  on  foot  than 
with  the  cost  of  a  cab  or  other  couA'eyance.) 

Whatever  the  other  arrangements,  one  day  should 
be  spent  (leaving  Geneva  at  8  a.  m.),  in  taking  steam- 
er up  the  lake  to  Chillon,  and  return  at  early  evening. 
This  gives  the  most  delightful  of  views  of  lake  and 
mountains,  passing,  and  stoj)ping  at  many  of  them 
(all  on  the  north  side)  —  the  charmingly  situated 
shore-towns  of  Versoix,  Coppet,  Nyon,  Rolle,  St. 
Prex,  Morges,  Ouchy  (with  Lausanne  at  a  little  dis- 
tance behind),  Lutry,  Cully,  Vevey  and  Montreux, 
until  the  landing  is  made  at  Veytaux-Chillon,  and  a 
few  minutes'  ride  or  walk  (the  latter  easiest  attain- 
able) brings  the  tourist  to  the 

Castle  of  Chillon,  a  fine  old  turreted  chateau, 
more  than  half  fortress,  with  round  and  square  tow- 
ers of  very  unequal  heights,  standing  at  the  edge  of 
the  lake,  near  the  extreme  eastern  end,  overhung  by 
frowning  mountains.  This  was  once  a  residence  of 
the  Dukes  of  Savoy,  afterwards  a  prison,  but  owes 
nearly  all  its  celebi*ity  to  Byron's  having  made  it  the 
scene  of  his  affecting  poem,  the  "  Prisoner  of  Chil- 
lon."      . 

The  points  best  Avorth  notice  in  this  fine  old  pile 
are 

The  Drmobridge  andMoat^  where  something  may 
be  learned  of  the  uses  and  mode  of  operating  those 
appendages,  in  the  far  past ;  the 


ly  SWITZERLAND.  189 

Dungeons  (oubliettes),  part  of  them  lying  beneath 
the  surface  of  the  lake,  and  fearfully  dismal ;  the 

Great  Audience  Chambe)',  where  the  Dukes  of 
Savoy  gave  audience,  now  occupied  with  arms  and 
flags  of  the  Helvetian  Republic  ;  the 

Chapel,  where  the  prayers  must  have  been  pecu- 
liar; then,  en  suite,  the 

Chamber  of  the  Condemned,  where  the  doomed 
passed  their  last  night  on  cold  stones ;  followed  by 
the 

Execution-Room,,  with  a  trap-door  ready  to  slide 
the  beheaded  bodies  into  the  lake,  and  so  save 
trouble ;  and  that  succeeded  by  the  last  and  most 
interesting  of  all, 

Bonnivardh  Prison,  the  scene  of  Byron's  mas- 
ter-work,— with  its  "  seven  columns,"  the  third  bear- 
ing the  name  of  "  Byron,"  said  to  have  been  cut 
there  by  his  own  hand,  and  the  fifth  yet  holding  the 
massive  chain  and  ring  to  which  Bonnivard  was  fet- 
tered— its  high,  narrow-slitted  windows,  looking  out 
over  the  lake  (if  they  could  only  be  reached)  and  all 
the  suggestions  of  an  age  of  cruelty  not  yet  quite 
ended. 

The  return  to  Geneva  is  made  by  boat  ;  and  dur- 
ing the  return-voyage,  as  in  going  up,  if  the  weather 
is  fine,  there  are  many  chances  of  seeing,  once  and 
again  if  not  continually,  Mt.  Blanc,  the  "  monarch 
of  mountains,"  and  some  of  his  brother  snow-capped 
giants. 


1 90  SHORT-  TRIP  0  UIDE. 

EXCUKSI03]"    FROM     GENEVA    TO     CHAMOUXI,    AXD     KE- 
TUBX. 

Those  who  make  only  the  briefest  of  the  brief 
tours  in  Switzerland,  must  give  up  the  hope  of  see- 
ing the  Valley  of  Chamounix,  and  Mont  Blanc  from 
that  much  nearer  point  of  view — (one  of  the  noblest 
of  all  the  attractions  presented  by  the  "  land  of 
mountains  "),  trusting  to  the  mountains  of  the  Ber- 
nese Oberland  to  supply  the  omission  and  give  the 
best  possible  idea  of  the  sharp,  rugged  peaks,  bald 
or  snow-crowned,  and  many  of  them  of  needle  sharp- 
ness ;  the  glaciers,  or  rivers  of  ice,  that  sweep  be- 
tween them  and  around  their  feet ;  the  long  strips 
of  snow  lying  all  summer  down  the  vertical  ravines, 
half  way  from  peak  to  foot ;  the  innumerable  cas- 
cades pouring  and  dashing  down  from  the  melted 
snows,  sparkling,  flashing  and  gleaming  white  on 
every  hand ;  the  marvellously-fertile  narrow  valleys, 
with  the  green  "Alps"  stretching  mountainward 
from  them ;  and  the  infinite  variety  of  hanging- 
roofed  and  galleried  chalets  (houses)  often  curiously 
carved  and  ornamented  in  their  timber-and-sbiugle 
enclosures,  and  always  with  rows  of  large  stones 
seeming  to  be  holding  down  the  roofs — all  this, 
which  combines  to  fill  up  the  peculiar  odd  charm  of 
Swiss  scenery  and  make  it  a  recollection  never  to  be 
forgotten.  These,  for  the  very-short-trip  tourist, 
must  be  deferred  :  he  (as  hereafter  to  be  explained) 
must  push  on  direct  from  Geneva  for  Berne  and 
through  the  Oberland. 

The  luckier  tourist,  however,  who  can  add  some 


m  SWITZERLAND.  191 

four  days  to  this  portion  of  liis  whole  route  (as  in 
the  ten  or  thirteen  weeks'  arrangement),  and  the  ad- 
ditional expense  inydlved,  shovild  make  Chamounix 
a  certainty,  going  to  it  by  one  ix)ute  and  returning 
by  the  othex',  as  follows : 

Connect  the  excui'slon  with  that  from  Geneva  to 
Chillon,  leaving  out  the  return  from  the  latter. 
Leave  Geneva  by  boat  for  Cliillon,  as  before  desig- 
nated, visit  the  Ciiateau,  take  the  evening  boat  from 
Chillon  to 

Vtlleneuve,  only  a  mile  or  two  beyond,  at  the  ex- 
treme eastern  end  of  the  Lake,  where  the  Rhone 
empties  into  it.  From  Villeneuve  (a  town  of  some 
age  but  little  consequence),  by  rail,  to 

Martigny,  a  very  old  town,  dating  back  to  the 
Roman  times,  and  said  then  to  have  been  tlie  capital 
of  a  province ;  now  principally  of  consequence  as  the 
place  whence  the  Monks  of  St.  Bernard  draw  their  sup- 
plies for  the  Plospice,  and  the  point  whence  the  ascent 
of  the  Alps  is  commenced  by  the  Simplon  or  Great  St. 
Bernard  Passes,  besides  <5ividing  with  Sallanches  (on 
the  other  side)  the  travel  to  Chamounix.  It  lies  at 
the  bottom  of  the  depression  formed  by  the  sloping 
down  of  the  Great  Alps  (Mt.  Blanc  or  "  snow 
range  ")  on  the  south,  and  the  Bernese  Alps  on  the 
north,  and  necessarily  ends  railway  travel  in  that 
direction. 

The  route  from  Martigny  may  be  made  on  foot, 
by  good  travellers,  but  much  easier  by  mule,  for 
those  who  ride  better  than  they  walk,  or  even  as 
well.  The  leading  points  of  interest  (fully  pointed 
out  and  explained  by  guides,  whether  the  tourist  is 
17 


192  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

mounted  or  on  foot)  are  Martigny-le-Bourg  (where 
the  little  river  Dranse  is  crossed),  La  Fontaine,  Sar- 
raieux,  Chavans  en  Haut,  to  the 

Col  de  la  Forclaz,  the  summit  of  which  may  be 
ascended  by  those  who  wish  a  splendid  view  over 
the  whole  valley  of  the  Rhone,  but  avoided  by  the 
leg-weary  who  need  to  husband  their  strength. 

From  the  Col  de  la  Forclaz  the  road  descends, 
passing  the  small  village  of  Orient,  directly  winding 
through  the  dark  Forest  of  Magnin,  reaching,  after 
rising  again  by  a  tough  climb,  the 

Col  de  Dalme^  boundary  between  Switzerland  and 
Savoy,  from  two  different  stations,  on  the  top  of 
"which,  in  fine  weather,  perhaps  the  finest  mountain- 
side view  is  obtained,  in  the  world — the  whole  chain 
of  Mt.  Blanc  being  visible,  from  crown  to  foot,  look- 
ing southward,  with  the  Valley  of  Charaounix  and 
the  great  Glaciers ;  and  looking  back  noi'thward,  the 
Jungfrau,  Finsteraarhorn  and  other  giants  of  the 
Bernese  Oberland  being  visible. 

From  the  top  of  the  Col  de  Balme  the  descent 
commences,  in  view  of  the  river  Arve,  and  passing  a 
noted  landmark,  the 

Homme  de  Pieiire  (Man  of  Stone),  to  Tour,  a 
small  village,  with  the  Glacier  de  Tour  near  and  in 
sight.  Near  Tour  the  little  river  Buisme  is  crossed  ; 
and  half  an  hour  brings  the  tourist  to 

Arffentib'ej  a  mountain  tour  of  much  beauty  and 
some  prominence,  whence  a  carriage  may  be  taken 
or  the  route  finished  on  foot,  to  Chamounix. 

(The  ascent  from  Martigny  to  Chamounix  may 
be  made  by  a  veiy  different  route — that  known   as 


ly  SWITZERLAXD.  193 

the  T6te  Xoire,  the  divergence  Leijig  made  not  long- 
before  reacning  the  Col  de  la  Forclaz,  and  some  of 
the  most  startling  passes  in  Switzerland  accom- 
plished, besides  passing  through  the  Roche  Percee 
[Pierced  Ilock]  ;  but  by  that  route  the  view  from  the 
Col  de  Balme  would  be  lost  entirely,  and  the  in- 
creased fatigue  of  the  passage,  in  that  direction,  in- 
duces the  much  more  frequent  taking  of  tlie  course 
just  described,  while  those  going  from  Chamounix 
to  Martigny  oftenest  take  the  Tete  Xoire.) 

Chamounix  lies  at  the  head  of  the  Valley  of  the 
Arve,  northward  of  Mt.  Blanc  and  so  near  that  the 
great  mountain  may  be  literally  said  to  overshadow 
it — views  of  the  monster  and  its  chain  being  attain- 
able from  any  quarter.  It  has  nearly  a  dozen  of 
hotels  and  some  2,500  inhabitants  ;  and  it  supplies 
a  marked  attraction  during  all  the  "  Alpine  season," 
in  the  number  of  tourists  and  pleasure-seekers  con- 
tinually arriving,  departing,  setting  out  upon  and 
returning  from  the  many  excursions  to  be  made  in 
the  neighborhood. 

It  is  from  Chamounix  that  the  ascents  of  Mt. 
Blanc  are  made ;  but  this,  of  course,  is  out  of  the 
line  of  the  short-trip  tourist  (as  indeed  of  most  sen- 
sible people)^  who  "svill  not  be  expected  to  spend 
about  $200  (gold),  peril  life,  and  fatigue  himself  be- 
yond a  month's  recovery,  by  any  such  climb.  Look- 
ing up  to  a  mountain,  from  the  immediate  foot,  is 
generally  preferable  (after  one  knows  both)  to  look- 
ing doion  from  it ;  and  Mt.  Blanc  and  tlie  Yale  of 
Chamounix  furnish  no  exception  to  the  rule. 

There  ai'e  some  excursions,  however,  Avhich  may 


194  SHORT-TBIP   GUIDE. 

and  should  be  made,  even  by  those  who  linger  but  a 
single  day,  Avhile  those  who  have  several  days  at 
command  (and  who  are  consequently  out  of  our  pur- 
view) may  easily  learn  more  from  the  guides  about 
more  extended  excursions,  than  could  find  any  ap- 
j)ropriate  place  here.  This  one  day  at  Chamounix 
should  be  spent  in  ascending  the 

Mbntanvert  (Green  Mountain),  an  eminence  on 
the  east  side  of  the  valley,  with  some  tv/o  to  three 
hours'  climb  (two  to  descend),  from  which  the  most 
magnificent  of  views  can  be  obtained  not  only  of  the 
great  mountains  of  the  chain,  but  of  the  Glaciers 
which  fill  all  the  higher  gorges,  called  the  Mer  de 
Glace  above  and  the  Glacier  du  JBols  below,  and  al- 
together some  twelve  miles  long  by  1^  to  4^  in  width 
— the  lower  portion  reaching  down  to  the  valley  of 
Chamounix,  This  ascent  should  be  made  in  the 
morning  (always  with  a  guide  for  whatever  is  to  be 
done  during  the  day),  because  then  the  rugged  and 
diflScult  path  is  in  shade  and  less  fatiguing. 

From  the  Montanvert  it  is  usual  (now,  even  for 
ladies,  though  they  should  only  attenijjt  it  if  iu  fair 
health  and  sure-footed)  to 

Cross  the  Mer  de  Glace  to  the  Chapeau  on  the  op- 
posite side — a  difficult  ice-climb  of  half  to  three-quai'- 
ters  of  an  hour,  which  will  generally  be  found  quite 
"  enough  of  glacier  "  for  the  moderate.     The 

Mauvais  Pas  (difficult  steps) — steps  hewn  in  the 
rock,  not  far  from  the  Chapeau,  is  the  most  "  pokerish  " 
point.     The  view  from 

The  Chapeau.,  a  limestone  precipice  on  the  north- 
east side  of  the  Glacier,  is  considered  nearly  equal  to 


/lY  SWITZERLAND.  195 

that  -from  the  Montanvert.  Many  pause  here,  for 
return  ;  but  those  who  have  yet  some  strength  and 
courage  unexpended,  will  try  the  much  more  difficult 
scramble  over  the  Glacier  du  Talefre  to 

The  Jcu'din,  whence  the  views,  so  to  speak, 
into  the  icy  bowels  of  Mont  Blanc  can  be  bet- 
ter caught  than  elscAvhere  without  ascending  it. 
Of  course  provisions,  as  well  as  guides,  require  to  be 
taken  for  the  day ;  and  of  course  tlie  day  is  no  "  child's 
play,"  except  to  practised  mountaineers.  The  return 
to  Chamounix  occupies  some  six  hours — quite  all  that 
will  remain  of  the  longest  day,  which  may  be  set 
down,  however,  if  successfully  carried  through,  as 
the  most  glorious  in  all  European  touring. 

The  return  from  Chamounix  to  Geneva  should 
be  made  by  way  of  Servoz,  Sallanches  or  St,  Martin, 
Cluses  and  Bonneville,  Light  carriages  may  be 
taken  to 

Sallanches,  from  the  bridge  of  which,  over  the 
Arve,  splendid  backward  views  of  Mont  Blanc  and 
other  mountains  may  be  obtained.  From  Sallanches 
to  Geneva  by  diligence ;  the  whole  route  being  made 
in  nine  to  ten  hours,  and  the  most  Avondei'ful  splendor 
and  variety  of  mountain  scenery  being  threaded 
throughout. 

GENEVA   TO    BERNE   AND   INTEELAKEN. 

From  Geneva  to  Berne  by  rail,  close  along  the 
northwestern  side  of  the  Lake  of  Geneva,  to 

Lausanne,  a  very  beautiful  town,  famous  as  a 
residence  and  with  some  historical  reminders — amona: 


196  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

otliers,  of  Gibbon  and  Voltaire;  then  shooting  away 
northeastward,  from  the  Lake,  with  last  glimpses  of 
the  Mt.  Blanc  range  (in  fine  weather)  by 

Homont,  "  a  very  old  town  climbing  up  a  side- 
hill,"  and  very  queer  in  its  many  towers  and  Lora- 
bardy-poplars,  to 

Freyhoiirg,  an  older  and  larger  town,  straddling 
the  gorge  of  the  Same,  with  a  tine  old  many-pinna- 
cled Cathedral  and  the  celebrated  organ,  built  by 
Aloys  Moser  without  help  or  money .  (some  of  us 
•w^ould  like  to  have  his  secret !),  and  considered  one 
of  the  grandest  in  the  world.  Many  lie  o\  er  at  Frey- 
bourg  for  a  train,  to  see  the  Cathedral  and  the  great 
suspension-bridges,  and  hear  the  organ  (played  every 
day,  at  12  noon  and  8  p.  m.),  and  the  time  is  cer- 
tainly not  wasted.  From  Freybourg  but  a  short  ad- 
ditional ride  to 

Beexe,  capital  of  Switzerland,  lying  on  the  rapid 
river  Aar,  with  a  specialty  of  "  Bears,"  some  30,000 
to  40,000  inhabitants,  and  much  general  interest. 
Among  its  features,  noticeable  even  in  a  few  hours' 
stay,  are  its  splendid  whole  streets  of  arcaded  shops 
(the  Grand  Rue  especially  notable);  the  marvellous 
amount  of  wood  carvings  kept  for  sale ;  the  many 
old  fountains;  the  Old  and  Xew  Bridges  over  the 
Aar  (the  former  said  to  be  five  or  six  hundred  years 
old),  and  the  railroad  bridge  (trellis),  one  of  the 
highest  in  the  world ;  and  then  of  yet  more  impor- 
tant specialties, 

The  Cathedral,  old  and  fine,  with  remarkably 
beautiful  entrance,  and  grand  organ,  on  which  play- 
ing may  be  heard  nearly  every  night  during  the  sum- 


ly  SWITZEELAXD.  197 

mer,'splenclid.  statue  of  Rudolph  von  Eiiach  in  front, 
etc. ;  the 

Terrasse  de  Cathedral,  a  beautiful  promenade, 
hanging  pokcrishly  over  the  Aar,  with  some  inter- 
esting monuments  ;  a  tough  story  of  a  knight,  who 
once  leaped  down  into  the  Aar  on  horseback  and  was 
not  killed;  and  the  most  splendid  of  views,  espe- 
cially at  early  evening,  of  the  Jungfrau,  the  Monk, 
the  Eiger,  and  the  whole  white-crowned  range  of  the 
Beniese  Oberland.     Then  come  the 

Federal  Palace  (Congress  Hall  of  Switzerland),  of 
no  special  interest,  however,  Avithout  or  witliin  ;  and 
the 

Fosse  del  Ours  (bear-pit),  lying  beside  the  Aar,  at 
the  foot  of  the  Grand  Rue,  with  some  noble  speci- 
mens of  the  tribe  of.Bruin,  who  occasionally  eat  up  a 
drunken  traveller  when  he  falls  into  their  embraces. 

Berne  has  also  a  mechanical  clock  worthy  of  no- 
tice, with  a  crowing  cock  and  moving  figures. 

From  Benie  to  the  Lake  of  Thun  (at  Scherlingen- 
Thun)  by  railway;  thence  by  boat  down  the  Aar 
and  the  Lake,  with  magnificent  views  of  the  Jung- 
frau, Monk,  Eiger,  Aarhorn,  Finsteraarhorn,  and 
other  great  peaks  of  the  Oberland,  to  Xewhaus, 
where  the  diligences  of  the  General  Post  are  taken, 
and  a  brief  ride  brings  the  tourist  to 

Interlaken,  "  heart  of  the  Bernese  Obeiland,"  as 
it  has  been  called — a  very  handsome  and  very  Swiss 
old  town,  lying  on  the  Aar,  with  Unterseen,  a  small 
suburb,  across  the  river,  and  the  Jungfrau  in  full 
view  from  any  one  of  the  many  fine  hotels  that  stud 
the  principal   street.      Interlaken   is  famed  for   its 


198  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

shops  for  tlie  sale  of  wood-carvings  and  other  curi 
osities,  and  far  more  as  the  favorite  resort  of  tourists 
who  wish  to  combine  magnificent  scenery  with  taste- 
ful quiet ;  and  it  may  perhaps  be  considered  match- 
less, as  a  summer  residence,  in  Switzerland.  .  It  has 
a  Kursaal,  used  for  dancing,  music  and  reading ; 
mountain  views  almost  unequalled  ;  and  a  multitude 
of  tine  walks,  combined  with  the  opportunity  for 
excursions  innumerable.  Those  which  should  cer- 
tainly be  made,  at  all  hazards,  are  the  following : 

By  three-horse  carriage  (for  a  party  of  four,  five 
or  six,  easily  made  up),  up  the  Valley  of  Grindel- 
wald,  to  the 

Glaciers  of  Grindehcald,  running  down  to  the 
valley  between  the  Eiger  and  Middenthal — with  a 
walk  (well  wrapped)  into  the  ic^-caverns  underlying 
it,  and  an  ascent  of  one  of  them  if  none  of  those  near 
Mont  Blanc  have  been  "  done."  (If  they  have,  these 
may  as  well  be  avoided,  as  secondary.)  Thence 
around  into  the  Valley  of  Lauterbrunuen,  to  the 

Falls  of  Lauterhrunnen  (Staubbach),  a  single  thin 
sheet  falling  a  sheer  thousand  feet ;  in  the  midst  of 
perpendicular-cliff  scenery  of  wonderful  grandeur. 
This  double  excursion  will  occupy  one  day,  and  a 
highly  interesting  and  memorable  one  ;  and  let  not 
the  tourist  forget  to  set  some  of  the  "Alpine  horns  " 
blowing  along  the  road  (for  a  small  fee)  and  carry 
away  the  fine  echoes  among  the  mountains — or  fail 
to  listen  when,  late  in  the  return,  his  attention  is 
called  by  guide  or  driver  to  the  ruined  Castle  of 
Unspunuen,  where  Byron  is  said  to  have  laid  the 
scene  of  his  "  Manfred." 


ly  SWITZERLAND.  199 

[Those  who  have  a  little  more  time  at  command 
and  do  not  object  to  a  little  more  sharp  climbing — 
may  well  take  the  Grindelwald  excursion  as  enough 
for  a  single  day,  and  blend  "with  that  to  Lauterbrun- 
nen  the  ascent  of  the 

We^igern  Alp,  in  the  neighborhood  but  beyond, 
where  the  national  wrestling-matches  are  held  on  a 
broad  pasture  at  the  top,  on  the  first  Sunday  in 
August,  and  from  which  tlie  best  of  all  views  of  the 
whole  range  of  the  great  Oberland  Mountains,  the 
Jungfrau,  Monk,  Breithorn,  etc.,  and  the  whole  val- 
ley of  Lauterbrunnen,  may  be  obtained.] 

The  second  of  the  absolutely-necessary  excur- 
sions from  Interlaken  consists  in  taking  the  steamer 
on  the  Lake  of  Brienz  (half-mile  walk,  east),  to  the 
landing  of  Giessbach,  and  thence  ascending  the 
mountain  to  the  handsome  hotel  and 

JFall  of  Giessbach,  making  some  thousand  feet  in 
four  leaps  from  the  top  of  the  cliffs  to  the  lake,  amid 
trees  and  spanned  by  Airy  bridges,  and  without 
doubt  one  of  the  loveliest  cataracts  on  the  globe. 
A  night  spent  at  the  hotel  is  said  to  su])ply  a  great 
added  charm  in  the  lighting  of  the  Fall  (done  every 
clear  night)  ;  and  the  trip  down  the  lake  and  back 
is  a  lovely  one  in  the  mountain-girt  lake-scenery — 
not  excelled  by  either  Geneva  or  Lucerne. 

Among  the  walks  around  Interlaken,  Avhich  should 
be  taken  if  time  allows,  is  that  to  the  Jungfraublick, 
from  which  one  of  the  finest  of  all  views  is  caught 
(half-hour  walk)  ;  the  Heimwehfiuh  (three-quarter 
hour),  another  magnificent  view  ;  the  Ilohbuhl  (half 
hour)  ;  the  ruins  of  Unspunnen  (three-quarter  hour), 


200  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

etc.  Of  rides,  the  finest  remaining  is  that  to  the 
Schining  Platte,  from  which  the  valleys  of  Lauter- 
brunnen  and  Grindelwald  can  both  be  seen  at  once. 

IXTERLAKEN   TO   LUCERNE,   THE    EHIGI   AND    BALE. 

For  Lucerne,  the  boat  on  the  Lake  of  Brienz  is 
taken,  as  in  going  to  Giessbach,  affording  another 
view  of  that  beautiful  lake,  and  this  time  for  the 
whole  length.  The  landing  is  made  at  the  old 
town  of 

Brienz,  not  especially  notable  except  for  that 
fact ;  whence  diligences  are  taken,  the  route  ascend- 
ing sharply,  with  fine  views  over  the  Aar  and  -the 
Lake  of  Brienz,  to  the  summit  of  the 

Brunig  JPass  (at  Brunig-kulm) ;  thence  down, 
with  corresponding  rapidity  and  still  with  fine  views, 
by  the  Lakes  of  Lungern  and  Sarnen  (passed  at  the 
left),  the  scenery  for  the  time  softening  materially, 
but  the  splendid  pine  timber  of  all  the  ride  winning 
the  heart  of  the  American, — to 

Alpnach,  village  at  the  southwest  end  of  the 
Lake  of  Alpnach,  to  the  southeast  and  nearly  under 
shadow  of  Mont  Pilatus, — where  steamer  is  taken 
for  the  length  of  that  lake,  to  the  entrance  of  Lake 
Lucerne  ("  Lake  of  the  Four  Cantons."  and  scene  of 
Tell's  exploit^)  ;  thence  across  Lucerne,  nortliAvard, 
with  Pilatus  in  full  view  at  the  southwest  and  the 
Rhigi  across  the  Lake  at  the  northeast,  to 

Lucerne  (Luzern),  one  of  the  oldest  cities  of 
Switzerland,  lying  at  the  northwest  point  of  the 
Lake  of  the  same  name.  It  stands  at  the  junction 
of  the  river  Reuss  with  the  Lake  ;  is  a  Catholic  city 


Iir  8WITZERLAXD.  201 

and  capital  of  the  Canton  of  the  same  name  ;  has 
part  of  the  okl  wall  still  surrounding  it  on  the  land 
side ;  and  offers,  as  curiosities,  the  three  bridges 
over  the  Reuss  (all  odd,  and  the  Muhlenbrucke  with 
the  singular  oniamentation  of  thirty-six  pictures 
called  the  "Dance  of  Death") — the  Arsenal,  in 
which  some  interesting  antiquities  are  preserved — 
among  other  things,  flags  taken  at  Lepanto  under 
Don  John  of  Austria — and  the  rare  monument,  called 
the  "  Lion  of  Lucerne,"  erected  from  Thorwaldsen's 
designs,  in  memory  of  the  Swiss  killed  at  Paris  in 
defending  Louis  XVL,  in  1*792.  Lucerne  has  also 
the  charm  of  vieing  with  Geneva  in  loveliness  of 
location. 

TJie  Mhigi  may  he  ascended  from  Lucerne,  in 
either  of  two  directions — from  Kussnacht  on  the 
north  (reached  by  carriage  from  Lucerne),  the  return 
made  by  Weggis, — or  from  Weggis,  on  the  south 
(reached  by  boat),  the  return  made  by  Kussnacht. 
Li  either  case,  sleeping  accommodations  at  the  top 
should  be  telegraphed  for  from  Lucerne,  a  day  ahead 
if  possible.  Supposing  the  first  of  the  two  routes 
to  be  taken — cai'riage  to 

Kiissnacht,  alleged  to  be  tlie  scene  of  Tell's  ex- 
ploit with  the  apple,  and  where  some  memorials  of 
the  hero  are  said  to  exist.  Thence  horses  or  cliairs 
(carried  by  two  men)  up  the  mountain:  not  foot- 
climbing,  except  for  very  healthy  and  athletic  peo- 
ple, and  never  for  ladies.  About  three  hours,  by 
horse,  after  a  succession  of  views  embracing  nearly 
all  the  cities,  lakes  and  mountains  of  Switzerland,  to 
the 


202  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

Jthigi-Stoeffel,  half  a  mile  from  the  top,  where 
horses  are  generally  kej^t  and  lodging  may  (or  may 
not)  be  procui'ed.     Thence  to  the 

Hhigi-Kuhn  (top),  from  which,  if  reached  in 
time,  one  of  the  most  memorable  of  sunsets  is  likely 
to  be  enjoyed.  But  the  Rhigi  is  especially  ascended 
to  see  the 

Sunrise,  which  demands  getting  up  at  call,  and 
some  shivering,  but  presents  one  of  the  noblest  moun- 
tain-top sunrise-views  on  the  globe,  embracing  all 
Switzerland  and  seeming  to  embrace  half  the  rest  of 
the  world. 

Down  from  the  Rhigi,  the  same  morning,  on  foot 
preferable,  by 

Kalthad,  charmingly  located  half-way  up,  with 
many  fine  A'iews  of  Pilatus,  the  distant  Oberland, 
over  the  Lake  of  the  Canton  Uri,  etc.,  to 

Weggis,  whence  steamer  back  to  Lucerne,  whence 
rail  is  taken  to 

Bdle  (Basle,  or  Basel),  on  the  Rhine,  reached  in 
about  four  to  six  hours.  It  has  some  forty  thousand 
inhabitants,  and  a  thriving  trade  ;  presents  the  odd- 
est bridge  in  the  world — one  side  of  stone  and  the 
other  of  wood ;  has  rope-and-current  ferries  that  no 
one  should  miss ;  shows  an  old  Cathedral  with  the 
ugliest  sculptures  on  the  habitable  globe,  but  some 
other  good  buildings,  and  is  worth  seeing  in  default 
of  anything  better. 

This  ends,  of  necessity,  all  that  can  be  accom- 
plished by  the  short-trip  tourist  in  Switzerland,  and 
it  will  be  found  to  embrace  the  best  of  Swiss  scenery. 
Those  who  have  abundant  means  and  leisure,  of 


m  SWITZERLAND.  203 

course,  should  see  the  Lakes  of  Zurich,  Coustanz, 
Neufchatel,  etc.,  the  Falls  of  Schaffhausen,  and  the 
Monte  Rosa  chain  of  mountains  ;  but  only  those  who 
liave  both  at  free  command,  can  hope  for  much  more 
than  has  been  here  hurriedly  outlined,  except  in 
making  one  or  the  other  of  the  great  passes  of  the 
Alps  into  Italy,  briefly  to  be  alluded  to  in  a  follow- 
ing paper. 


18 


XV. 

BALE  TO  STEASBOUKG  AND  BADEX-BADEN. 

The  most  closely  pressed  of  short-trip  travellers, 
baviug  reached  so  far  as  Bale,  should  not  return  with- 
out touching  Eastern  France  and  Germany,  at  Stras- 
bourg and  Baden-Baden,     For  this 

Rail  from  Bale,  through  the  Lower  Rhine  prov- 
inces, with  scenery  altogether  tamed  down  from  that 
of  Switzerland,  and  only  a  few  glimpses  of  the  moun- 
tains that  are  being  left  behind — with  the  only  im- 
portant stoppage  at  Colmar — some  eight  hours  to 

Stkasboueg,  on  the  extreme  eastern  border  of 
France,  the  most  important  eastern  city  of  the  em- 
pire— called,  indeed,  the  "Paris  of  Eastern  France." 
It  is  pleasantly  situated ;  contains  some  80,000  in- 
habitants ;  is  heavily  fortified  and  garrisoned,  as  a 
guard  against  German  encroachments ;  and  presents 
one  of  the  most  attractive  points  of  all  European 
travel.  The  most  notable  of  its  many  curiosities 
are:  first. 

The  Cathedral^  or  Munster,  with  the  tallest  spire 
in  the  world  (said  to  be  475  feet  above  the  ground), 
the  steeple  of  such  delicate  tracery  that  it  seems  to  be 
lace-work,  and  the  immense  building,  the  very  body 
of  which  is  higher  than  the  other  steeples  of  the  city, 
a  wilderness  of  fine  sculpture,  statues,  bas-reliefs, 
rich  Gothic  taste  and  interminable  labor.     It  is  said 


BALE  TO  STEASBOUEG.  205 

to  have  been  commenced  in  1277  and  finished  in 
1601.  Within,  the  massireness  and  height  of  its 
columns  and  arches  are  Avell  matched  by  the  splendor 
of  its  organ,  pulpit  and  side-cliapels ;  Avhile  its 

Great  Astronomical  Clock  is  well  known  as  one 
of  the  world's  wonders.  That  ingenious  colossal 
structure  winds  only  ouce  in  ninety-nine  years; 
shows  not  only  the  apparent  time  but  the  astronom- 
ical, the  eclipses  and  other  celestial  phenomena ; 
and  at  12  noon,  every  day,  the  Cathedi*al  is  visited 
by  hundreds  to  see  the  mechanical  cock  which  sur- 
mounts it  clap  his  wings,  and  hear  him  crow — and 
to  see  the  Twelve  Apostles  make  their  circuit  around 
the  figure  of  the  Saviour.  !N"ext  to  the  Cathedral,  in 
interest,  is  the 

Church  of  St.  Thomas,  very  old,  containing  the 
sarcophagus  of  Bishop  Adeloque,  died  in  836 ;  the 
splendid  tomb  of  Marshal  Saxe — one  of  the  finest  in 
France ;  and  the  ghastly  but  instructive  embalmed 
bodies,  in  glass-covered  coffins,  of  Count  Nassau- 
Salberg  and  his  daughter,  of  the  sixteenth  century ; 
besides  many  other  antiquities  and  curiosities.  Next 
to  this  comes  the  fine 

Public  Library^  with  many  antiquities  in  the  art 
of  printing,  and  a  splendid  statue  of  Guttenberg 
without;  but  scarcely  second  to  these  are  the 

Old  Houses,  some  of  them  among  the  finest  and 
best-preserved  in  Europe,  and  one  of  them,  especially, 
authenticated  as  between  800  and  900  years  old,  and 
a  marvel  of  stone-work,  especially  in  its  matchless 
spiral  stairway.  Within  this  house,  too,  are  the  frag- 
ments of  the  old  clock  (cock  included)  and  of  por- 


*206  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

tions  of  the  Cathedral  destroyed  by  the  revolution- 
ists in  1793,  but  since  restored.  One  other  feature 
of  Strasbourg  desers'es  note  and  must  command  it — 

The  Storks,  apparently  the  protected  "  totem  "  of 
the  city,  visible  everywhere,  Avith  nests  covering 
nearly  one-third  of  the  chimneys  in  the  older  por- 
tions. To  this  incomplete  summary  should  be  added, 
that  Strasbourg  is  the  home  and  centre  of  the  pdth 
des  foies  gras  (goose-liver  pies)  manufacture,  to  be 
found  in  such  freshness  and  perfection  nowhere  else, 
— and  that  marching  troops  are  always  to  be  seen, 
and  drums  and  bugles  always  to  be  heard,  in  its 
streets. 

From  Strasbourg,  by  rail,  across  the  Rhine,  a  few 
miles  distant,  to 

Kehl,  where  France  changes  to  Germany  and 
baggage  is  examined.  The  changes  of  cai-s  are  nu- 
merous, vexatious  and  unexplainable,  and  some  three 
hours  are  consumed  in  going  only  forty  miles,  at  the 
end  of  w^hich  the  dark  hills  of  the  Black  Forest  rise 
around  the  traveller,  and  he  is  disembarked  at 

BADEX-BADEif,  chief  and  most  beautiful  of  the 
gambling  resorts  of  Europe.  It  is  charmingly  loca- 
ted in  a  valley  at  the  foot  of  and  partially  surrounded 
by  the  hills  of  the  Black  Forest ;  and  every  appli- 
ance that  art  and  taste  could  suggest  has  been  added 
to  make  it  atti*active.    Its  first  attraction,  of  course,  is 

The  Kursaal  (Conversation-House),  a  noble  struc- 
ture, with  splendid  promenade-grounds  in  front,  and 
the  rooms  furnished  and  decorated  with  regal  luxury 
— where  the  gambling-tables  are  ever  filled  from 
early  morning  to  the  closing  hour  at  11  p.  m.,  and 


BALE  TO  STRASBOURG.  207 

where  the  wealth,  ruin,  crime  and  opportunities  for 
melancholy  study  (and  often  for  something  worse) 
are  unbounded.  The  playing,  principally  rouge  et 
noir  and  roulette,  is  carried  on  in  three  principal 
rooms,  all  ages,  conditions,  and  nearly  as  many 
women  as  men,  being  among  the  gamblers.  There 
are  also  private  rooms,  where,  hazard,  ecartc,  etc., 
are  played  by  smaller  jDarties.  One  end  of  the  great 
building  is  a  restaurant,  and  the  other  a  ball-room 
and  theatre,  with  either  balls  or  performances  two 
or  three  times  a  week  during  the  "  season."  In  front 
of  the  Kursaal  is  a  music  pavilion,  where  some  of 
the  finest  bands  in  Germany  play,  during  afternoons 
in  summer,  to  immense  concourses  of  promenaders 
from  all  lands — besides  supplying  music  during 
the  evenings.  Next  in  importance  to  the  Kur- 
saal is 

The  Trinkhalle  (Drinking-House),  an  elegant 
building  with  magnificent  piazza  frescoed  with  the 
history  and  legends  of  Baden,  standing  to  the  left 
and  a  little  in  front  of  the  principal  attraction,  with 
the  Spa  water  (warm)  always  on  free  draught,  and 
warm  baths  ready  for  those  who  desire  to  test  the 
ipedicinal  properties  of  the  springs. 

The  Theatre,  standing  almost  in  front  of  the  Con- 
versation-House, is  one  of  the  handsomest  in  Europe, 
and  opera  is  given  there  unexceptionably,  two  or 
three  evenings  a  week,  alternating  the  performance 
at  the  Kursaal,  during  the  "  season."  Additional 
attractions  are  found  in  the  very  handsome  walks 
and  promenades  with  which  the  town  abounds,  and 
in  the  fine  and  costly  wares  kept  lavishly  in  the  shops 


208  SHORT^TRIP  GUIDE. 

that  line  the  sti-eets  and  stud  the  eastern  side  of  the 
promenade-grounds. 

The  principal  excursions  from  Baden  are  to 
the 

Ooiirs  de  Bade.,  or  race-course,  four  or  five  miles 
away  westward — famous  for  its  green  turf  track,  the 
gatherings  of  notables  and  heavy  betting  which  take 
place  there  every  year,  in  September,  while  the  ride 
to  it  supplies  charming  scenery ;  and  to  the 

Blade  Forest.,  the  dark  hills  and  sombre  woods 
(mostly  firs)  of  which  surround  Baden  on  three  sides, 
with  splendid  dusky  drives  through  them,  and  the 
two  castles. 

The  Alt  Schloss  and  JV^ieic  Schloss,  Avhich  croAvn 
eminences  in  the  vicinity,  and  not  only  afford  a  very 
favorable  impression  of  the  old  knightly  roVoer-holds 
of  Germany,  but  show  subterranean  passages  be- 
tween the  two  of  great  length,  and  some  of  the  in- 
struments of  torture  and  death  once  said  to  have 
been  employed  by  the  dreaded  Yehmgericht,  or  "  Se- 
cret Tribunal  of  Germany."  The  Nieu  Schloss  is 
the  residence  of  the  Grand  Dukes  of  Baden  ;  the  Alt 
was  that  of  their  ancestors.  The  ruins  of  the  Alt 
Schloss  are  very  fine ;  the  rides  through  the  forest  to 
them  are  notably  handsome  and  memorable;  and 
charming  views  are  caught  from  the  heights  (espe- 
cially near  the  Alt  Schloss)  over  the  distant  Rhine 
and  low  country — with  even  finer  (including  the 
spire  of  Strasbourg  Cathedral)  from  the  top  of  the 
immense  jiile. 

There  are  some  interesting  excursions  from  Baden- 
Baden,  to  the  Yburg,  New  Eberstein  etc.  (castles), 


BALE  TO  STRASBOURG.  209 

but  they  are  scarcely  likely  to  be  taken  by  the  short- 
trip  tourist. 

Of  course,  for  the  visits  to  the  Cours,  the  old 
castles,  etc.,  already  noted,  carriages  are  required, 
and  they  may  be  had  at  fair  prices,  at  the  hotels, 
even  in  the  height  of  the  season  :  everything  else  at 
Baden  may  and  should  be  seen  on  foot,  the  distances 
beino:  triflino-. 


XYl. 

SHOET  TBIPS  IN  GERMANY. 

By  right  of  natural  division,  of  course,  that  por- 
tion of  the  preceding  paper,  relating  to  Baden-Baden, 
should  have  been  included  in  this.  But  so  many 
persons,  travelling  on  "  tourist-tickets,"  merely  rlin 
over  the  border  to  Baden  without  setting  foot  in  an- 
other German  city,  that  the  division  already  made 
will  be  held  excusable. 

From  Baden-Baden,  those  who  end  their  tour 
eastward  at  that  point  return  to  Strasbourg  and  take 
rail  direct  thence  back  to  Paris,  the  run  being  made  in 
twelve  to  fourteen  hours,  by  Nancy,  Bar-le-Duc, 
Chalons-sur-Marne,  Epernay  (dinner,  if  by  the  morn- 
ing-train fVom  Strasbourg),  Thierry,  and  Xeuilly. 

But  even  those  who  have  but  limited  time  and 
are  not  prepared  for  much  additional  expense,  when 
at  Baden  should  endeavor  to  strain  a  point,  before 
returning  to  Paris  and  the  English  ports,  so  far  as 
to  do 

FROM  BADEIf-BADEN  DOWN   THE    EHIXE. 

For  this  the  route  is  taken  from  Baden  by  rail 
(same  road  as  on  arrival),  connection  being  made 
^^dth  main  line,  going  north,  at  Oos — sometimes  with- 
out cliange.  First  place  of  importance,  passed 
thi'ough  within  a  few  miles,  is 


IX  GERMAXY.  211 

Hastadt,  an  old  town,  of  which  the  chief  point 
worth  hurried  observation  is  to  he  found  in  the  very 
heavy  and  formidable  fortifications,  about  whicli 
France  and  Germany  are  generally  quarrelling.  An 
hour  and  a  half  later, 

CarUruhe  ("Charles's  Rest"),  capital  of  the 
Grand  Duchy  of  Baden,  and  one  of  the  most  taste- 
fully-laid-out,  well-shaded  and  beautiful  little  towns 
in  Europe.  Glimpses  can  he  caught,  from  the  rail- 
way, of  the  Duke's  Palace,  an  imposing  and  hand- 
some building,  on  elevated  ground ;  and  those  who 
have  time  for  lying  over  one  train,  will  find  the 
Academy  worth  visiting  for  the  sake  of  its  pictures 
and  fi'escoes.  The  next  important  stoppage  beyond 
Carlsruhe,  is 

Bmichsal,  where  the  rail  from  Constance  and 
northeastern  Switzerland,  by  Stuttgart,  intersects  ; 
and  no  other  point  of  importance  jiresents  itself,  un- 
til reaching 

Heidelberg,  still  in  Baden,  on  the  south  bank  of 
the  Neckar  (a  confluent  of  the  Rhine,  running  into  it 
from  the  east),  considered  one  of  the  handsomest 
towns  in  Germany,  besides  holding  an  almost  un- 
equalled rej)utation  for  the  erudition  of  its  very  old 
University,  and  having  a  world  of  historical  recol- 
lections connected  with  the  Electors  Palatine  (who 
used  to  make  their  seat  there),  and  the  battles  and 
sieges  that  have  raged  around  it.  The  principal  cu- 
riosities in  the  town  (where  a  day  should  be  spent  if 
time  allows)  are  the  University ;  the  Castle,  a  mas- 
sive half-ruined  structure,  said  to  have  been  built  as 
an  Electoral  residence  in  the  fourteenth  century,  and 


212  SHOBT-TEIP  GUIDE. 

especially  noted  for  its  extensive  cellars  and  the  cele- 
brated "  Heidelberg  Tun  "  located  there ;  the  Church 
of  the  Holy  Ghost,  which  has  the  odd  peculiarity  of 
being  partitioned  in  the  centre,  so  that  Catholics  and 
Protestants  can  hold  service  at  the  same  time  ;  the 
Church  of  St.  Peter,  where  Jerome  of  Prague,  the 
reformer,  nailed  his  defiance  to  the  Papacy ;  the  fine 
views  over  the  valley  of  the  Neckar,  from  the  ter- 
race of  the  Castle;  the  very  long  and  handsome 
principal  street  on  which  nearly  the  whole  city 
seems  to  be  built,  etc. 

From  Heidelberg  by  rail,  direct,  in  two  to  three 
hours,  and  passing  through  no  places  of  special  in- 
terest, though  much  fine  Rhenish  scenery,  vineyards, 
etc.,  to 

FEANKF0KT-02f-THE-MAiNE,  lying,  as  its  name 
indicates,  on  the  river  Maine,  another  eastern  conflu- 
ent of  the  Rhine.  Frankfort  is  one  of  the  oldest  and 
most  interesting  cities  of  Germany,  alike  for  its  fine 
old  buildings,  its  rich  historical  associations,  and  its 
having  been  for  so  many  centuries  one  of  the  great 
moneyed  centres  of  Europe.  It  had  been,  since  the 
twelfth  century,  a  free  city,  and  the  capital  of  the 
Germanic  Confederation,  until  absorbed  by  Prussia 
in  1866.  The  Emperor  Charlemagne  is  said  to  have 
had  a  palace  here,  in  the  eighth  century,  and  all  the 
Emperors  of  Germany  have  been  elected  and  crowned 
in  the  Cathedral.  The  Rothschild  family  had  their 
beginning  here,  and  their  house  is  shown  ;  while  the 
residences  of  other  bankers  are  many  and  most  mag- 
nificent. The  first  object  of  interest  is  the  Cathedral 
(or  "Dom"),  with  unfinished  tower,  dating  back  to 


Ly  GERMANY.  213 

the  thirteenth  century,  witli  some  fine  monuments, 
especially  those  of  the  Emperors  Guntlier  and  Ru- 
dolph of  Sachsenhausen ;  next  the  Town  Hall,  with 
its  immense  banqueting-tower  and  picture-gallery  of 
the  Emperors,  and  the  market-place  opposite,  where 
at  the  imperial  festivities  they  roasted  oxen  whole 
and  outdid  Jack  Cade  by  making  the  fountains  run 
with  wine ;  next  the  State  Museum  and  Academy  of 
Painting,  with  many  fine  works  of  art ;  then  the 
house  and  statue  of  Goethe  (born  here) ;  the  fine 
bridge  over  the  Maine  to  the  suburb  of  Sachsenhau- 
sen, etc.  From  Frankfort  by  rail,  a  very  brief  ride, 
to 

Wiesbaden,  capital  of  the  Grand  Duchy  of  Nas- 
sau, of  which  the  best  idea  may  be  given  in  saying 
that  it  is  a  miniature  Baden-Baden  ;  dividing  with 
Homburg  the  credit  of  being  next  to  it  in  gambling ; 
less  select  and  more  crowded  in  society ;  lacking  the 
Black  Forest  hills  which  make  one  of  the  great 
charms  of  Baden,  but  supplying  the  deficiency  with 
a  charming  little  lake  which  forms  the  favorite 
pleasure-resort,  with  fine  gardens,  orchards,  and  a 
beautiful  situation  generally.  It  has  a  Kursaal,  of 
course,  and  all  the  gayeties  of  its  greater  rival,  but  is 
not  worth  so  extended  a  study.  From  Wiesl)aden 
the  run  should  be  made  back  by  rail,  as  if  returning 
to  Frankfort,  to  the  fine  old  town  of 

Mayence  (German  "Mainz  "),  lying  on  the  bank 

of  the  Rhine,  a  commercial  city  of  importance,  and 

chief  town  of  Hesse-Darmstadt.     It  is  heavily  forti- 

led  and  garrisoned;  was  one  of  the  chief  ecclesi- 

^tical  cities  in  the  centuries  following  Charlemagne ; 


214  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

and  was  held  during  a  long  siege  by  the  French  un- 
der Napoleon.  Its  piincipal  buildings  of  interest 
are  the  Cathedral,  an  immense  pile  of  red  sandstone 
(which  wonld  have  delighted  Hugh  Miller),  now 
somewhat  damaged  by  time  and  war,  but  with  a 
wonderful  collection  of  Electoral  and  other  monu- 
ments within.  Quite  of  as  much  interest  will  be 
found  the  "bridge  of  boats,"  nearly  1800  feet  in 
length,  across  the  Rhine  ;  the  site  of  the  house  of  Gut- 
tenberg,  in  venter  of  printing  (born  here),  etc. 

At  Mayence  the  rail  should  be  abandoned  and 
one  of  the  steamers  taken  (going  two  or  three  times 
a  day,  first,  second  and  third  class,  and-  with  meals 
on  board) — 

Down  the  Rhixe,  as  here  the  beauty  and  inter- 
est of  that  river  really  begin.  In  the  limited  space 
at  command  here,  of  course  no  attempt  at  describing 
the  scenery  of  that  world-celebrated  river  can  be 
made :  all  that  is  either  possible  or  needful  is  merely 
to  name  the  j)rincipal  places  of  interest,  and  whether 
on  the  right  or  left  bank,  descending ;  a  little  faculty 
of  observation  and  the  "  comparing  of  notes  "  inevi- 
table on  a  Rhine  steamer  (always  half-freighted  with 
English  and  Americans),  and  a  good  local  guide- 
book, which  no  one  should  fail  to  purchase  at  May- 
ence or  earlier,  will  supply  enough  additional  knowl- 
edge for  identification. 

One  additional  remark  is,  however,  necessary, 
before  proceeding — that  nearly  all  the  Rhine,  from 
Mayence  to  Cologne,  is  hilly  and  rocky-banked, 
something  like  the  Hudson  in  its  wilder  passes,  but 
dotted  with  cities,  towns  and  castles,  picturesque  in 


m  GERMAXY.  215 

effect', — and  that  vineyards  arc  almost  universal. 
Perhaps  no  better  description  was  ever  given  within 
the  same  space,  than  that  applied  to  the  Rhine  by 
Praed,  in  the  "Bridal  of  Belmont,"  and  pages  of 
dry  phrases  would  not  convey  half  so  much  : 

"  Where  foams  and  flows  the  glorious  Rhhie, 
Many  a  ruin  wan  and  gray 
O'erlooks  the  cornfield  and  the  vine, 

Majestic  in  its  dark  decay. 
Among  their  dim  clouds,  long  ago. 
They  mocked  the  battles  that  raged  below  : 

******     Homes  of  pride 
That  frown  on  the  breast  of  the  peaceful  tide." 

The  first  points  of  special  interest,  after  leaving 
Mayence,  are  found,  successively,  in 

J^eiherich,  on  the  right,  celebrated  for  the  quality 
of  its  wines  ;  then 

Johannisherg ,  castle  and  town,  also  on  the  right, 
yet  more  celebrated  for  the  production  of  the  cele- 
brated "Johannisberger  "  wine — the  vineyard  once 
in  the  possession  of  Napoleon,  and  given  by  him  (as 
he  gave  away  crowns)  to  General  Kellermann,  the 
dragoon.     Then 

Mudesheim,  also  on  the  right,  little  less  celebrat- 
ed than  Johannisberg,  for  a  corresponding  reason. 

Yery  shortly  after  passing  liudesheim,  the  inter- 
est changes  entirely  to  the  left  bank,  in  view  of  the 
pleasant  little  town  of 

JBiyxgen  '(not  "Binjen,"  as  many  call  it — but 
"Bing-en"),  lying  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Nahe, 
famous  for  its  wine-trade,  but  much  more  for  Mrs. 
Norton's  touching   poem,  "  Bingen  on  the  Rhine." 


216  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  mouth  of  the  Nahe  stands 
the 

Castle  of  Ehrenfels^  a  picturesque  robber-hold  of 
the  middle  ages ;  and  near  the  river  mouth,  on  a  low 
flat,  a  small  square  tower,  the 

Mouse  Tower,  immortalized  by  the  story  of  Bish- 
op Hatto,  who  kept  his  com  and  starved  the  poor, 
then  burned  them  in  his  barn — the  revenge  coming 
in  the  shape  of  all  the  mice  in  Germany  (Southey 
blunders  into  calling  them  "  rats  ")  attacking  the 
tower  and  eating  up  the  Bishop  with  everything 
else ! 

Bacharach  is  passed  at  the  left,  not  long  after 
leaving  Bingen ;  then 

St  Goar,  one  of  the  old  monkish  holds,  and  very 
picturesque ;  then  at 

Lahnstein,  on  the  left,  the  debarkation  is  made 
for  Ems,  another  and  smaller  watering-and-gara- 
bling-place ;  while  at  the  right,  opposite,  is  the  fine 
and  well-preserved 

Castle  of  Stotzenfels,  belonging  to  the  King  of 
Prussia,  and  where  he  entertained  Queen  Victoria 
and  Prince  Albert  in  1845,  while  the  interior  decora- 
tions of  the  Castle  are  magnificent,  and  it  contains 
many  curiosities  in  the  armory — among  others,  swords 
of  Napoleon,  Wellington  and  Blucher.  The  next 
point  of  special  interest  is  the  large  town  of 

Cohlentz,  on  the  left,  at  the  intersection  of  the 
Moselle  and  the  Rhine,  heavily  fortified,  and  with 
another  bridge  of  boats  ;  and  opposite  it  the  tremen- 
dous rocky  fortress  of 

Ehrenhreitstein  (the  "bright  stone  of  honor"), 


m  GERMAXY.  217 

nearly  400  feet  above  the  level  of  tlie  river,  and  be- 
lieved to  be  impregnable,  so  that  the  tourist  (and 
reader)  may  be  spared  the  fig-ures  of  its  gnns,  cost 
and  garrison.  A  short  distance  below  Coblentz  and 
Ehrenbreitstein,  is  passed,  on  the  left,  the 

White  Tower,  where  the  French  i-evolutionary 
army,  under  General  Iloche,  crossed  in  the  face  of 
the  Austrians  in  1797.     Next  are  passed,  on  the  right, 

N^euwied,  town,  with  a  palace  belonging  to  the 
King  of  Prussia  ;  on  the  left, 

Andernach,  with  heavy  fortifications  and  a  fine 
watch-tower  near  the  river;  on  the  right  the 

Castle  of  Sammerstein  (fine  ruins — 800  years 
old)  ;  on  the  left  the 

Castle  of  ItheinecJc  (ruins),  with  modern  residence 
attached,  and  Brohl  (village)  near ;  tlien  on  the  right, 
with  heavy  ibrtifications, 

Ijinz  (town) ;  and  near  it,  also  on  the  right,  the 

Castle  of  Ochenfels  (ruins,  black  and  sombre). 
Just  below,  and  among  what  is  considered  the  very 
finest  portion  of  the  Rhine  scenery,  stands,  on  the 
left,  the 

Castle  of  MolandsecJc,  said  to  have  been  built  by 
the  celebrated  paladin,  Roland,  that  he  might  over- 
look the  place  of  abode  of  his  promised  bride,  who 
had  believed  him  slain  at  Roncesvalles  and  taken 
the  veil  in  the  convent  of 

Nonnenwerden  (St.  Ursula — "  silence  "),  of  which 
the  ruins  are  to  be  seen  on  a  little  island  opposite. 
Nearly  opposite  Rolandseck,  on  the  right,  is  the 
rocky 

Drachenfels    ("castled     crag    of   Drachenfels," 


218  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

Byron),  crowned  with  the  ruins  of  an  old  castle,  and 
around  it  the  peaks  of  the  bold  group  of  hills  called 
the  "  Seven  Mountains,"  all  900  to  1,200  feet  in  height. 

It  is  only  a  short  time  after  leaving  the  Draehen- 
fels,  when  at  the  left  is  seen 

£o7in,  with  one  of  the  largest  and  most  excellent 
Universities  in  the  world  ;  a  Cathedral,  or  Minster, 
showing  the  oddity  of  five  tOAvers,  and  alleged  to 
have  been  built  by  the  Empress  Helena  ;*  and  sub- 
urbs of  singular  shaded  beauty.  But  all  eyes  are 
now  necessarily  turned  ahead,  to  the  tenniuation  of 
the  Rhine  trip,  which  is  shortly  after  reached  (for 
the  short-trip  tourist)  at 

Cologne,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Rhine,  contain- 
ing some  120,000  inhabitants  ;  and  lying  along  the 
river-curve  in  a  crescent  bending  outward.  It  is 
very  old  (said  to  have  been  founded  by  Agrippina, 
daughter  of  the  Roman  Emperor  Germanicus) ;  very 
picturesque  in  its  old  houses  and  river-frontage  ;  very 
dirty  (as  are,  however,  most  German  towns) ;  and 
very  celebrated  as  having  given  name  to  the  "  Co- 
logne water,"  not  one  millionth  part  of  which  ever 
saw  it.  Of  course  people  go  to  Cologne  principally 
to  see 

The  Cathedral,one  of  the  most  stupendous  speci- 
mens of  Gothic  architectiu'e  in  the  world,  and  per- 
fectly dizzying  to  the  thought  in  the  extent  of  its 
size  and  details.  It  is  said  to  have  been  commenced 
in  1248,  to  be  finished  probably  in  2048,  when  the 
two  towers,  as  yet  "no-horned,"  though  even  now 
wonderful  in  height,  are  each  to  reach  500  feet — the 
extreme  length  of  the  building.     Within,  it  is  quite 


IN  GERMANY.  219 

as  magnificent  as  without,  with  tlie  Cha^Del  of  tlie 
"Three  Kings  of  Cologne"  (the  three  wise  men  of 
the  East  Avho  came  to  worship  the  infant  Christ)  be- 
hind the  high  altar,  and  the  wealth  of  an  empire 
lavished  on  the  case  containing  their  bones,  and  on 
similar  objects.  The  whole  cathedral  is  full  of  relics 
and  objects  of  devotion,  besides  some  fine  paintings; 
and  no  brief  time  will  suffice  to  study  it  thoroughly 
within  and  without.  But  perhaps  scarcely  second 
even  to  the  Cathedral,  in  special  interest,  is  the 

Church  of  St.  Ursula,  containing  exposed  the 
bones  of  the  Eleven  Thousand  Virgins  who  accom- 
panied St.  Ursula  on  a  pilgrimage  to  Rome,  and  were 
murdered  by  the  Huns  on  their  return,  for  refusing 
to  break  their  vow  of  chastity.  The  whole  church  is 
full  of  bones  and  skulls  piled  on  shelves  and  heaped 
miscellaneously ;  and  the  spectacle  is  edifying — more 
or  less,  according  as  one  believes  or  disbelieves  the 
story,  or  wishes  or  does  not  wish  to  see  womankind 
reduced  to  "  first  principles."  After  St.  Ursula,  those 
of  the  many  remaining  churches  of  Cologne,  best 
worth  visiting,  are,  that  of  St.  Peter,  containing  the 
font  in  which  the  painter  Rubens  (native  of  Cologne) 
was  baptized,  and  his  masterj)iece  of  the  "  Cruci- 
fixion" supplying  the  after-piece ;  that  of  St.  Mary, 
alleged  to  be  nearly  1,200  yeai'S  old,  with  some  inter- 
esting efiigies  and  pictures,  that  of  St.  Pantaleon,  etc. 

FROM  COLOGNK  WESTWARD  TO  PARIS  OR  THE  CHAIfXEL. 

( Route  I. ) 
Return  may  be   made   from   Cologne   direct  to 
Paris,  by  the  Rhenish  Railway,  to 


220  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

* 
Aix-la-Chapelle,  a  fine  old  town  of  Rhenish 
Prussia,  boasting  the  residence  of  Charlemagne  and 
the  sepulture  of  that  great  monarch  and  many  of 
his  successors.  Its  first  point  of  interest  is  the  Ca- 
thedral, which  is  one  of  the  oldest  in  Europe,  and 
holds,  besides  the  tomb  of  Charlemagne,  the  greatest 
collection  of  sacred  relics,  gathered  from  every  land, 
to  be  found  in  any  one  spot  on  the  globe.  Among 
the  chief  of  them  (about  the  authenticity  of  which 
each  may  decide  for  himself),  are  a  piece  of  the 
Cross,  a  locket  of  the  hair  of  the  Virgin  Man",  the 
leathern  girdle  of  Christ,  the  bones  of  St.  Stephen,  a 
piece  of  Aaron's  rod,  the  Saviour's  swaddling-clothes, 
the  scarf  He  wore  at  the  Crucifixion,  the  robe  worn 
by  the  Virgin  at  the  Nativity,  the  cloth  on  which 
John  the  Baptist's  head  was  laid,  etc.  Aix  has 
many  historical  reminiscences— (among  others,  several 
Peace-Congresses) ;  a  splendid  bronze  statue  of  Char- 
lemagne in  the  market-place ;  has  warm  medicinal 
springs  and  a  Kurhaus ;  and  manufactures  exten- 
sively. 

From  Aix-la-Chapelle,  still  by  rail,  to 
Liege,  in  Belgium,  handsomely  situated  on  the 
river  Meuse,  with  the  most  extensive  cannon,  fire- 
arms and  iron  manufactories,  on  the  continent.  It 
has  a  fine  old  Cathedral  (said  to  date  back  to  the 
tenth  century),  with  some  good  paintings  and  the 
best  carved  pulpit  (of  oak)  in  Europe ;  a  church  of 
St.  Jacques,  with  stained  glass  of  rare  perfection ;  a 
Palace  of  Justice,  onte  the  abode  of  the  mighty 
Bishops  of  Liege,  and  famous  as  the  scene  of  a  large 
part  of  Scott's  novel  of  "Quentin  Durward."    A 


I^'^  GERMANY.  221 

little-  time  can  be  excellently  spent  in  Liege,  exam- 
ining the  manufactories — especially  those  of  fire- 
arms.    From  Liege,  on  hy  rail  to 

Namur^  also  on  the  Meuse,  at  its  intersection 
with  the  Sambre — principally  notable  for  its  exten- 
sive manufactures  of  iron  and  steel,  and  its  connec- 
tion with  the  old  wars  of  Flanders.  From  Xamur, 
by  rail,  to 

Charleroi,  heavily  fortified,  as  affording  one  of 
the  strongest  defences  of  Belgium  against;  France — 
and  with  coal-fields,  iron-foundries,  nail-factories, 
etc.,  seeming  to  blend  English  Birmingham  and 
Wolverhampton. 

Shortly  after  leaving  Charleroi,  France  is  entered 
(at  Jeumont),  Avhere  baggage  is  examined.  Tlience 
the  route  is  pursued  by  Cambrai,  noted  for  giving 
name  to  "  cambric,"  first  manufactured  here,  and  for 
the  treaty  of  peace  between  Charles  V.  and  Francis 
L,  some  time  after  the  battle  of  Pavia  ;  by  St.  Quen- 
tin,  memorable  for  its  storming  by  the  Spaniards 
and  English,  from  the  French,  in  the  time  of  the 
English  Queen  Mary ;  by  Noyon,  with  a  fine  old 
cathedral,  and  noted  as  the  birth-place  of  Calvin  ; 
and  by  Compeigne,  with  the  imperial  palace  and 
magnificent  forest  used  in  the  hunting-season  by 
Napoleon  IIL  ;  to  Paris. 

{Route  II.) 

The  tourist  who  has  finished  with  Paris  before 
going  to  Switzerland  and  the  Rhine,  should  pursue 
the  route  already  indicated,  from  Cologne  by  Aix- 


222  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

la-Chapelle  and  Liege  to  Namur,  but  there  branch 
off  by  rail,  directly  northwestward,  to 

Brussels,  the  capital  of  Belgium,  beautifully 
situated  on  rising  ground  beside  the  river  Senne,  a 
southern  branch  of  the  Scheldt — considered  one  of 
the  best-shaded  cities  and  handsomest  residences  in 
Europe.  It  has  many  attractions,  in  the  Palace  and 
Park  of  the  King  of  Belgium ;  the  Parliament 
Houses  ;  the  Hotel  de  Ville,  very  old  and  fine,  with 
an  enormous  pyramidal  tower  nearly  four  hundred 
feet  in  height ;  the  Old  Palace,  "with  its  great  variety 
of  Rubens's  and  other  pictures ;  the  fine  old  churches 
of  St.  Gudule  (Cathedral),  La  Chapelle,  Bon  Secours, 
etc. ;  some  excellent  characteristic  fountains,  the 
great  carpet  and  lace  manufactories,  etc.  Several 
days  may  be  profitably  spent  in  Brussels ;  but  the 
short-trip  tourist,  with  a  good  cab  and  intelligent 
driver,  can  "do"  it  very  fairly  iu  a  single  day,  set- 
ting aside  a  second  day  for  the  indispensable  carriage 
or  stage  ride  to  the 

Sattle-field  of  Waterloo^  about  twelve  miles  from 
the  city,  where  the  destiny  of  Eui'ope  is  believed  to 
have  been  decided  in  the  final  defeat  of  Napoleon 
by  Wellington  and  Blucher  on  the  memorable  18th 
June,  1815.  Plenty  of  guides  and  local  guide-books 
can  be  found  both  at  Brussels  and  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  battle-field  ;  and  there  is  not  the  least 
difiiculty  in  purchasing,  in  either  place,  any  desired 
quantity  of  relics  of  the  battle — authentic  or  not, 
according  as  the  tourist  is  of  a  robust  faith.  [X.  B. — 
Those  who  do  not  wish  to  be  excessively  bored, 
should  "  check  off"  the  guide  at  his  first  attempt  to 


7^^  GERMANY.  223 

relate-  the  events  of  the  battle  ;  tliough  he  may  be 
allowed,  with  all  proj^ricty,  to  conduct  the  visitor 
up  the  great  mound  in  the  centre  of  the  field,  crowned 
with  the  bronze  lion  (arms  of  Belgium),  and  marking 
the  spot  whei'e  the  Prince  of  Orange  fell — as  well  as 
to  show  the  site  of  the  old  Chateau  of  Ilougomont, 
the  Farmhouse  of  La  Haye  Sainte,  and  the  Sunken 
Road  from  Wavres,  points  at  and  around  which  the 
battle  was  really  decided.] 

From  Brussels,  by  rail,  by  Malines  (one  of  the 
most  celebrated  of  the  lace-manufacturing  towns), 
to 

A]\"TWEEP,  on  the  river  Scheldt,  about  half  the 
size  of  Brussels,  and  second  town  of  Belgium  in  im- 
portance— formerly  the  first.  It  has  some  shipping 
and  foreign  trade,  and  many  buildings  of  great  cost 
and  beauty,  while  some  of  its  streets,  and  especially 
the  Great  Place  de  Mere,  may  vie  with  any  in  Europe 
for  beauty.  Its  chief  attractions  are  to  be  found  in 
the  immense  Cathedral,  of  magnificent  architecture, 
and  one  of  its  two  towers  among  the  highest  and 
most  delicately-finished  in  the  woi'ld  ;  in  the  iron 
canopy,  at  the  foot  of  the  Cathedral  tower,  the  work 
of  Quentin  Matsys,  the  blacksmith-painter ;  in  Ru- 
bens's  "  Descent  from  the  Cross  "  (his  greatest  work), 
found  within  the  Cathedral,  with  other  noted  works 
by  the  same  master;  in  the  Museum,  with  one  of  the 
finest  collections  of  pictures  in  Europe — especially 
rich  in  the  works  of  Rubens,  Vandyke,  and  other 
Flemish  artists  ;  in  the  churches  of  St.  Augustine, 
St.  Paul,  St.  Anthony,  etc. ;  and  the  house  where 
Rubens  lived  and  died. 


224  8E0ET-TRIP  GUIDE. 

From  Antwerp  rail  may  be  taken  to  the  fine  old 
walled  town  of 

Ghent,  scene  of  many  of  the  most  interesting 
historical  occurrences  of  Belgium,  and  especially  of 
the  memorable  episode  of  the  patriot  Philip  van 
Artevelde,  Among  its  leading  curiosities  will  be 
found  the  very  old  Gateway,  once  belonging  to  the 
castle  of  the  English  John  of  Gaunt,  Duke  of  Lan- 
caster, built  more  than  a  thousand  years  ago  ;  the 
Cathedral  of  St.  Bavon,  with  a  striking  marble  in- 
terior and  Chapter  Arms  of  the  Spanish  Order  of  the 
Golden  Fleece,  which  once  had  its  place  of  authority 
here ;  the  Belfry  Tower,  near  the  Cathedral,  from 
which  the  warning  bell  rang  to  announce  the  (fre- 
quent) approach  of  invaders — its  summit  dragon- 
crowned  and  its  base  a  prison ;  the  Church  of  St. 
Michael,  containing  Vandyke's  "  Crucifixion  " ;  its 
many  picturesque  bridges ;  and  the  immense  number 
of  factories,  for  making  everything,  from  laces  and 
silks  to  dyes  and  whiskeys. 

If  the  Channel  is  to  be  crossed  from  Ostend,  the 
tourist  proceeds  by  rail  from  Ghent  to 

Uniges,  another  fine  old  Flemish  town,  with  even 
more  bridges  than  Ghent,  and  almost  as  great  a  histor- 
ical interest.  It  has  a  splendid  old  Cathedral  (Xotre 
Dame)  witli  a  tower  of  wondi'ous  height,  and  within 
it  may  be  seen  the  gorgeous  gilded  tombs  of  Charles 
the  Bold  (Duke  of  Burgundy)  and  his  daughter 
Mary,  Empress  of  Austria,  as  well  as  many  fine  pic- 
tures. There  is  also  attraction  to  be  found  in  the 
Hospital  of  St.  John,  with  its  many  relics ;  in  the 
Cathedral  of  Saint  Sauveur,  Church  of  Jerusalem, 


ly  GERMAXY.  225 

etc. ;  but,  to  Americans  especially,  one  of  the  most 
notable  features  will  be  found  in  the  Belfry,  in  the 
Market  Square,  very  lofty  and  of  splendid  Gothic 
architecture,  with  a  chime  of  forty-eight  bells,  some 
of  them  fabulously  large,  and  almost  constantly  ring 
ing  —  while  Longfellow  has  doubly  immortalized  it 
in  his  fine  poeni  of  the  "Belfry  of  Bruges,"  com- 
mencing 

"  In  the  market-place  of  Bruges  stands  a  belfry  old  and  brown, 
Thrice  consumed  and  thrice  rebuilded,  still  it  towers  o'er  the 
town." 

From  Bruges  only  an  hour  by  i-ail  to 

Ostencl^  a  fine  old  Belgian  port  on  the  Channel, 
with  no  feature,  however,  demanding  stay.  From 
Ostend  steamers  leave  every  evening  for  Dover,  in 
England, — the  time  occupied  being  from  five  to  eight 
hours,  according  to  weather. 

if,  from  Ghent,  the  traveller  prefers  less  Chamiel- 
pa^sage  with  more  riding  by  railway,  that  end  can 
be  secured  by  running  southward  by  rail,  past  Cour- 
trai  and  Mouscron,  to 

Lille,  another  very  old  Flemish  town,  with 
nearly  the  same  features  of  industry,  manufocture 
and  antiquity,  observe^  from  Aix  to  Bruges  ;  thence 
by  the  Northern  of  France  Railway  to 

Calais,  with  steamer  passage  to  Dover  in  one- 
and-a-half  to  two  hours. 

HINT   FOR   LONGER  TOUR LAKE  CONSTANCE    BY    INN- 

SPRXJCK,   MUNICH,    DRESDEN,    BERLIN,    ETC. 

In  the  preceding  has  been  given  all  that  the 
short-trip  tourist  can  hope  to  see  of  Germany  during 


226  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

any  one  season ;  but  a  hint  may  be  of  advantage  to 
those  who  have  leisure  for  something  longer,  or  to 
the  same  persons  when  chancing  to  be  a  second  time 
nearly  within  the  same  districts. 

One  of  the  most  splendid  routes  in  the  world,  and 
certainly  one  of  the  most  varied  in  scenery  and  the 
character  of  the  inhabitants,  may  be  pursued  as  fol- 
lows, supposing  the  tourist  to  be  a  second  time  in 
Switzerland,  or  supposing  him  to  prefer  this  to  all 
or  a  great  part  of  the  German  succession  already 
given : 

The  Swiss  Lake  Constance  (easternmost  of  the 
whole  group,  and  not  before  mentioned  ip  the  short 
trips  in  Switzerland)  may  be  reached  by  rail  from 
either  Berne  or  Bale ;  then  the  lake  is  descended  by 
boat  to 

JBregenz,  at  the  extreme  eastern  end.  From  Bre- 
genz,  by  eilwagen  (mail-diligence),  across  the  lesser 
mountains  separating  Switzerland  and  the  Tyrol 
(Austrian),  by  Feldkirch,  Stuben,  St.  Anton,  Lan- 
deck,  Imst,  Silz,  etc.,  through  grand  wild  scenery 
and  with  excellent  opportunity  for  studying  the  pic- 
turesque Tyrolese  costumes,  to 

Innspbuck,  capital  of  the_Tyrol,  splendidly  situ- 
ated on  the  river  Inn,  and  almost  completely  hemmed 
in  by  mountains  of  great  height.  It  has  a  wonderful 
variety  of  monuments  in  the  Hofkirche,  among  the 
rest  that  of  Maximilian  I.,  one  of  the  finest  in  Eu- 
rope, that  of  the  patriot  Hofer,  etc.  The  Imperial 
Palace,  Museum,  etc.,  and  the  old  Castle  of  Ambras, 
are  all  worth  visiting, — as  also  the  scenes  in  the 
neighborhood  where  the  Tyrolese  won  such  bloody 


ly  GERMANY.  227 

victories  during  the  Napoleonic  wars.  From  Inn- 
spruck,  by  rail,  to 

MuKicii,  capital  of  the  Kingdom  of  Bavaria,  ly- 
ing on  the  river  Aar,  and  challenging  all  the  other 
capitals  of  Europe  for  beauty,  especially  since  the 
thousand  costly  improvements  made  by  the  late 
King  Louis  I.  (friend  of  Lola  Montez,  who  literally 
reigned  here  for  a  short  period).  It  is  almost  equally 
matchless  in  buildings,  public  grounds,  and  disputes 
with  Paris,  Rome  and  Madrid  the  palm  as  a  reposi- 
tory of  art.  The  leading  attractions  are  found  in  the 
Residenz,  or  Royal  Palace,  a  part  very  old  and  a 
second  part  new  and  yet  more  elegant — with  courts, 
fountains,  statuary  and  antiquities,  magnificent  halls, 
etc.;  the  Pincothek,  or  Picture-Gallery,  with  some 
thirteen  hundred  of  the  best  paintings  of  all  schools 
(open  every  day  except  Saturday) ;  the  Glypothek, 
or  Sculpture-Gallery  (open  Mondays,  Wednesdays 
and  Saturdays),  only  second  to  the  picture  collection ; 
the  Schwanthaler  Museum;  the  Royal  Brewery, 
where  the  celebrated  Bavarian  beer  has  its  fountain- 
head;  the  Public  Library,  second  in  size  in  the  world 
(nearly  a  million  volumes) ;  and  many  splendid 
churches  and  monuments,  only  to  be  intelligently 
seen  with  a  guide  or  valet  de  place.  From  Munich, 
by  rail,  to 

Augsburg.,  a  pleasant  old  town  on  the  river  Lech, 
with  many  historical  recollections,  and  tlie  Bishop's 
Palace  still  standing  in  which  the  noted  Augsburg 
Confession  of  Faith  was  framed,  and  where  Luther 
held  his  interview  with  the  Cardinal  Gaeta,  beibre 
proceeding  to  the  reformation  extremities ;  the  old 
20 


228  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

Fuofger  House,  commemorating  the  Austrian  Roth- 
schild ;  the  Fountain  of  Augustus ;  the  wilderness 
of  watchmakers'  shops,  etc.  From  Augsburg  by 
rail  to 

XuKEMBEKG,  Oil  the  rivcr  Pegnitz — once  one  of 
the  richest  cities  in  Europe,  now  principally  famous  for 
its  monopoly  of  the  making  of  toys,  and  to  Ameri- 
cans as  the  scene  of  another  of  Longfellow's  finest 
poems,  "  Xuremberg,"  in  which 

"In  the  valley  of  the  Pegnitz,  where  across  broad  meadow-lands, 
Rise  the  blue  Franconian  Mountains,  Nuremberg,  the  ancient, 
stands." 

It  is  famous  in  the  world  of  art  as  the  birth-place 
of  Albert  Dtirer,  the  painter  and  engraver,  and  for 
the  many  fine  sculptures  in  the  Churches  of  St.  Law- 
rence, St.  Sebald  (which  contains  the  tomb  of  Dtirer)  ; 
and  additional  attractions  are  found  in  the  rock- 
throned  Castle,  dating  back  to  the  eleventh  century, 
the  Churchyard  of  St.  John,  with  many  interesting 
monuments,  etc.  From  Nuremberg,  by  rail,  by 
Bamberg,  Lichtenfels  and  Chemnitz,  to 

Deesdex,  the  capital  of  Saxony,  on  the  river 
Elbe,  with  an  old  and  a  new  town  (something  like 
Edinburgh)  on  the  two  sides  of  the  river,  and  a 
splendid  bridge  of  1,400  feet  in  length  connecting. 
Dresden  is  so  complete  in  situation,  shade,  walks  and 
laying  out,  as  to  hold  the  name  of  the  "  Xorthem 
Florence  " ;  and  it  is  considered  by  many  the  equal 
of  any  other  capital  in  Europe,  while  in  works  of  art, 
and  especially  in  antique  jewelry  and  fine  sculptures, 
it  is  certainly  unequalled.     Its  leading  attraction  is 


I¥  GERMAFY.  229 

the  celebrated  '•Dresden  Gallery,"  with  world-wide 
reputation,  and  fidl  of  the  l)est  works  of  tlie  old 
Italian  and  German  masters.  The  Z winger  (build- 
ings and  promenade-grounds)  contains  a  fine  armory, 
■with,  many  military  and  historical  curiosities — and  a 
rich  Museum  of  Xatural  History ;  and  the  Japanese 
Palace,  with  its  collection,  the  Frauenldrche,  etc., 
are  well  worth  visiting. 

From  Dresden,  by  rail,  to 

Berlin,  the  capital  of  Prussia,  one  of  the  largest, 
handsomest,  and  now  one  of  the  most  powerful,  of 
all  the  capitals  of  Europe.  It  contains  nearly  three 
quarters  of  a  million  inhabitants ;  is  some  twelve  miles 
in  circumference ;  holds  in  garrison  from  20,000  to 
50,000  soldiers;  supplies  one  street,  "  Unter  den 
Linden,"  lined  with  palaces  and  almost  matchless  in 
fragrant  shade;  has  many  handsome  monuments, 
among  which  the  colossal  equestrian  one  of  Fredei'ick 
the  Great  stands  without  superior  in  Europe ;  has  a 
Museum  especially  rich  in  works  of  art  (ranking  per- 
haps second  in  Europe) ;  and  supplies  a  world  of 
other  attractions,  as  well  as  temptations  to  residence, 
in  its  Royal  Palace,  Opera -House,  Arsenal,  and 
splendid  walks  and  drives,  when  "  done  "  as  it  should 
be,  under  intelligent  guidance. 

From  Berlin,  by  rail,  direct  to 

Hambueg,  on  the  Elbe,  one  of  the  leading  free- 
cities  of  Germany,  with  a  world  of  industry  and 
manufactures  and  a  heavy  shipping-trade;  while  the 
city  has  a  perfect  circumvallation  of  gardens,  and  is 
tasteful  and  handsome.  Its  most  attractive  buildings 
are  the  Exchangee  and  the  Churches  of  St.  Peter  and 


230  SHOET-TRIP   GUIDE. 

St.  Michael — the  latter  with  a  tower  of  460  feet  and 
one  of  the  finest  organs  in  Germany. 

From  Hamburg,  steamer  may  be  taken  to  an 
English  port,  or  to  America  if  the  tour  is  ended ;  or 
rail  may  be  taken  southward  and  westward,  from 
Harburg,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Elbe,  across 
Hanover  and  Belgium,  intersecting  the  railway  from 
Cologne  at  Aix-la-Chapelle,  and  the  route  to  the 
Channel  pursued  by  Brussels  and  Ghent  to  Ostend 
or  Calais,  as  before  noted. 

^  Or,  this  may  be  shortened  a  little  by  leaving  out 
Hamburg,  and  taking  rail  direct  from  Berlin  by  Aix- 
la-Chapelle,  to  Brussels,  etc. 


XYIT. 

ACEOSS  THE  ALPS  TO  ITALY. 

There  are  three  principal  routes  by  which  the 
passage  of  the  Alps,  southward  to  Italy,  is  effected. 
The  first,  or  most  westerly,  is  from  St.  31ichel,  France, 
to  Susa,  in  Italy,  and  is  knoAvn  as  the  "  3It.  Cenis  " 
route.  The  second,  next  westerly,  takes  its  depart- 
ure from  Martigny,  near  the  eastern  end  of  tlie  Lake 
of  Geneva  (Switzerland),  ends  at  Aosta,  and  is  known 
as  the  passage  of  the  "  Great  St.  Bernard."  The 
third,  and  most  easterly,  may  be  said  to  commence 
at  Andermatt,  after  that  point  is  readied  from  Lu- 
cerne by  way  of  the  Lake  of  the  Canton  Uri,  Flu- 
ellen  and  Altorf, — is  known  as  the  "  St.  Gotthard," 
crossing  the  range  of  that  name  to  Bellinzona,  near 
the  head  of  Lake  Maggiore.  There  is  yet  a  fourth, 
called  the  "  Simplon,"  reached  by  going  up  the  Val- 
ley of  the  Rhone  from  Martigny  (tirst  route),  cross- 
ing by  the  mighty  work  of  engineering  ])erformed 
by  Napoleon,  the  "  Simplon  Road,"  passing  near 
Donio  d'Ossola,  and  also  ending  on  Lake  Maggiore, 
though  near  the  centre  of  the  Lake  and  much  farther 
southwestward  than  the  end  of  the  St.  Gotthard. 

These  passes  are  all  picturesque,  beyond  compari- 
son with  any  other  European  scenery ;  all  more  or 
less  fatiguing,  and  often  exciting  to  the  timid  or 
nervous  ;  but  none  of  them  has  any  absolute  danger. 


232  SHORT-TEIP   GUIDE. 

excej3t  when  pursued  too  early  in  the  summer  or  too 
late  in  the  autumn,  and  ladies  make  them  habitually. 


THE   MT.    CENIS    EOUTE. 

By  this  route  the  amount  of  necessary  fatigue  is 
much  less  than  by  either  of  the  others,  while  the 
travel  is  certainly  much  less  picturesque.  Up  to 
1867  the  conveyance  was  from  St.  Michel,  in  the 
Maurienne  Valley  (reached  by  rail  from  either  Paris, 
Lyons  or  Geneva,  by  Amberieu'c  [junction — see 
"Paris  to  Geneva"],  Aix  and  Chambery)  by  dili-" 
gence  over  that  fine  mountain-range,  with  magnifi- 
cent views  of  Mont  Blanc  and  the  whole  range  of 
the  White  Alps,  caught  northward  at  many  points,  in 
fine  weather.  By  this  route  the  road,  after  leaving 
St.  Michel,  sweeps  a  considerable  distance  northward 
and  eastward,  before  entering  the  mountains — by 
St.  Andre,  Modane,  Villeraudin,  Terniignon  and 
Lans  le  Bourg ;  then  sheering  southward,  the  actual 
ascent  is  commenced  at  or  near  Tavernette,  the 
crossing  being  thence  made  diagonally  southeast- 
ward, on  the  eastern  side  of  Mt.  Cenis,  to  Molaret, 
where  the  sharpest  line  of  descent  ends,  and  thence 
to  Susa. 

In  1867,  however,  a  new  and  marked  triumph  in 
engineering  was  inaugurated,  in  the  completion  of  a 
temporary  railway  of  peculiar  character  over  the 
mountain,  a  third  or  middle  rail,  with  extra  hori- 
zontal or  gripping  wheels,  enabling  trains  to  be 
drawn  up  the  whole  northern  steep  with  a  slow, 
steady,  and  apparently  safe  motion,  and  to  be  low- 


ACBOSS  THE  ALPS   TO  ITALY.  233 

ered  ou  the  southern  side  at  corresponuing  rate  and 
safety.  Henceforth,  of  course,  the  mission  of  the 
diligences  ended,  as  this  link  completes  the  great 
railway  line  from  France  and  all  Central  Europe  to 
Italy  and  all  Southern.  Even  this  is  but  temporary, 
however,  for  the  great  Mt.  Cenis  Tuiiuel  is  slowly 
but  steadily  progressing  through  the  bowels  of  the 
mountain,  and  by  1870  or  1871  it  is  expected  that 
traiiis  will  be  able  to  pass  through  it,  on  the  ordi- 
nary level, — the  result  being  that  special  lovers  of 
their  ease  will  all  adopt  the  Mt.  Cenis  route  and  ride 
into  Italy  as  elsewhere  on  the  "  dead  level,"  while 
others  who  have  more  regard  for  the  pictu]-esque  than 
the  practical,  will  be  driven  away  to  some  one  of 
the  other  routes.  This  link,  however,  will  also  per- 
fect a  mightier  chain  than  that  of  tourist-travel, 
by  making  complete  the  railway  conr.nunication 
from  Calais  ou  the  British  Channel  to  Brindisi  on 
the  Adriatic  (near  the  extreme  end  of  the  Italian 
"boot-heel "  peninsula),  whence  the  steamers  leave 
for  the  shortest  of  all  routes  from  Western  Europe 
to  India. 

The  disembarkation,  by  railway  as  formerly  by 
diligence,  will  be  made  at 

Susa  (said  to  be  the  site  of  the  old  Roman  Segu- 
sium),  with  fine  mountain  scenery,  and  two  artificial 
objects  commanding  attention  :  the  Roman  xVrch, 
erected  b.  c.  8,  and  once  forming  the  entrance  to  the 
town  from  the  Roman  road  to  Gaul  over  Mont  Ge- 
nevre  ;  and  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Justus,  bearing  date 
of  the  eleventh  century,  with  some  antique  curiosi- 
ties in  the  inner  chapels.     From  Susa  by  rail  to  Tu- 


234  SEORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

rin,  etc.,  as   will  be  seen  by  the  following  paper, 
"  Short  Trips  in  Italy/' 

THE  GREAT  ST.  BERXAED  PASS  AXD  ROUTE. 

As  already  indicated,  the  commencement  of  the 
Great  St.  Bernard  route  is  reached  at  Martigny,  by 
steamer  or  rail  from  Geneva  to  Villeneuve  and  the 
termination  of  railway  travel  at  Martigny — the  route, 
thus  far,  being  precisely  the  same  taken  on  the  way 
to  Chamounix. 

The  time  consumed  on  this  route,  between  Mar- 
tigny (Switzerland),  and  Aosta  (Italy),  should  be 
from  18  to  22  hours.  It  maybe  made  on  foot  by  the 
very  robust,  in  a  somewhat  longer  time,  and  by 
spending  one  night  at  the  Hospice.  The  better 
plan,  however,  is  to  take  carriage  from  Martigny  to 
the  Cantine  de  Proz,  only  7^  miles  from  the  Hospice, 
with  led  mules  attached,  to  be  ridden  thence  to  the 
Hospice,  and  either  the  same  or  other  mules  to  St. 
Remy,  five  or  six  miles  beyond.  From  St.  Remy  to 
Aosta,  carriage  again.  Or,  for  those  who  prefer 
more  saddle-exercise  and  less  carriage-confinement, 
carriage  may  merely  be  taken  from  Martigny  to  • 
Liddes,  about  half-way  to  the  Hospice — then  mules 
to  the  Hospice  and  on  to  St.  Remy,  then  cari'iages 
down  to  "Aosta,  as  before. 

The  principal  points  of  interest  on  this  route  (by 
many  thought  to  be  very  interesting)  are  the  pas- 
sage up  from  Martigny  through  the  Valley  of  the 
Dranse,  to  Bovernier ;  then  to  Serabranchier,  with 
the  ruins  of  a  fine  old  castle,  said  to  have  been  once 
of  great  size  and  power,  accommodating  the  Emperor 


AOEOSS  THE  ALPS  TO  ITALY.  235 

Sigismund,  who  stopjied  there,  with  800  nobles  to 
wait  on  him  ;  then  Orsieres,  with  very  hue  \iew, 
especially  of  the  snow  peak  of  Mt.  Yelan ;  then 
Liddes  (station),  with  entrance  into  the  wild  Forest 
of  St.  Pierre;  then  St.  Pierre  Mont  Joux,  with  some 
fine  Avaterfalls  and  terrible  gorges  just  beyond, 
rendered  memorable  by  the  fact  that  from  here  to 
the  summit  was  found  the  most  dislieartening  diffi- 
culty by  Napoleon  and  the  French  troops,  dragging 
up  their  dismounted  guns,  with  the  carriages  jjacked 
on  mules,  in  that  wonderful  "Passage  of  the  Alps," 
from  Geneva  by  Martigny,  in  May,  1800. 

Then  Cantine  de  Proz  (station — positive  end  of 
the  carriage-road  and  commencement  of  the  bridle- 
path), with  still  finer  views  of  Mt.  Velan,  only  a  few 
miles  southeastward.  Thence  the  bridle-path  trav- 
erses the  pastures  of  the  Plan  de  Proz,  ascends  the 
very  wild  Defil'e  de  Marengo  ;  not  long  afterwards 
passes  two  stone  huts  of  interest,  the  one  being  a 
place  of  refuge  for  both  people  and  cattle,  and  the 
other  the  old  Morgue  for  j^reserving  tlie  bodies  of 
those  perished  in  the  snow  (see  Cooper's  "  Heads- 
man of  Berne,"  Chaps.  XXIIT.  and  XXIY.) ;  then  the 
Dranse  is  crossed  by  the  Bridge  of  Xudri,  the  Val- 
lee  des  Morts  (Yalley  of  the  Dead)  is  crossed,  bring- 
ing the  tourist  to 

The  Hospice  of  St.  Bern^ard,  a  monastery  consist- 
ing of  two  large  massive  stone  buildings,  partitioned 
into  many  rooms  for  the  care  and  resuscitation  of 
travellers— one  of  the  highest  places  of  dwelling  in 
Europe,  as  it  is  oneof  the  purest  of  benevolences  and 
most  celebrated  of  landmarks.     The  buildings  have 


236  SnORT-TEIP  GUIDE. 

stood  for  some  three  hundred  years,  being  erected 
solely  for  the  succor  of  those  crossing  tlie  Alps  ;  and 
the  monks  have  their  first  duty  (with  the  -svonderful 
and  somewhat  fierce  dogs  kept  here)  in  rescuing  those 
who  would  otherwise  perish  in  storms,  and  in  attend- 
ing on  those  who  arrive  for  shelter.  Most  of  the 
supplies  for  the  Hospice  are  brought  up  from  Aosta, 
but  a  few  from  Martigny  ;  the  fund  for  its  support  is 
derived  jointly  from  the  French  and  Italian  Govern- 
ments (some  50,000  to  60,000  francs  per  year),  be- 
sides what  is  contributed  by  travellers,  who  are,  how- 
ever, neither  charged  anything  nor  begged  from. 
Some  18,000  to  20,000  travellers  are  accommodated; 
but  it  is  said  that  many,  even  of  the  Avealthy,  after 
eating  and  being  served,  leave  no  remernhrance  be- 
hind them.,  and  that  the  institution  is  lately  a  little 
crippled  in  consequence.  Several  hours  may  be 
profitably  devoted  to  inspecting  the .  plain  but  per- 
fect arrangements  for  the  comfort  of  visitors,  and  the 
large  collection  of  pictures,  gifts  from  travellers, 
relics  and  other  curiosities,  as  well  as  the  monument 
to  Dessaix,  erected  by  Xapoleon  in  the  Chapel.  Be- 
sides the  benevolent-looking  monks  themselves,  and 
their  mighty  dogs,  the  Morgue  (or  dead-house,  where 
the  perished  are  sometimes  kept  undecayed  for  years) 
is  well  worth  visiting ;  and  no  one  should  quit  the 
Hospice  without  remembering  that  Xapoleon  and  his 
officers  found  shelter  here,  when  they  had  at  last 
surmounted  the  pass,  and  that  the  whole  French 
army  was  feasted  (at  the  First  Consul's  expense)  on 
the  plateau  in  front  of  the  buildings. 

A  little  lake  of  some  500  feet  long  is  i^assod  soon 


ACE  OSS  THE  ALPS  TO  ITALY.  237 

after  leaving  the  Hospice,  and  at  the  end  of  it  a  pil- 
lar marking  the  division  between  France  and  Italy. 
Beyond  it  lies  the  green  pasture  of  the  Hospice  cat- 
tle, called  La  Vacherie.  St.  Eemy  (station),  the  first 
Italian  village,  is  reached  in  1  to  l^V  hours  from  the 
Hospice,  whether  by  nuile  or  on  foot, — and  has  one 
peculiarity  of  entirely  filling  the  gorge  Avhere  it 
stands,  as  if  it  had  been  literally  poured  into  a  trough  ! 
From  St.  Remy  the  carriage-road  recommences,  while 
the  valley  is  cultivated  and  all  the  cliaracter  of  the 
near  scenery  softened.  The  small  villages  passed  are 
St.  Oyen ;  Etroubles ;  Gignod  (in  a  strong  defile, 
and  with  the  ruins  of  a  defensive  tower).  Then  the 
Val  de  Pellina  opens,  with  a  path  over  the  glacier- 
pass  of  the  Col  de  Colon.  Then  Signaye,  at  which 
the  views  of  the  splendid  Adneyards  of  Aosta  begin  ; 
while  in  fine  weather,  looking  back  northeastward 
and  northwestward,  a  view  almost  unparalleled  in  the 
whole  world  maybe  caught — Monte  Rosa  at  the  right 
or  eastward,  Mont  Rlanc  at  the  left  or  westward  ! 
Below,  at  the  traveller's  feet,  lies  the  termination 
of  the  Alpine  passage,  in  the  handsome  Italian  town 
of 

Aosta  (English  "Augusta"),  built  and  named 
after  himself  by  Augustus,  before  the  birth  of  Christ 
— magnificent  heavy  fortifications  and  v/alls  remain- 
ing, and  with  a  Triumphal  Arch,  Double  Gate,  Town 
Hall,  Cathedral  (with  frescoes)  Church  of  St.  Ours, 
etc.,  worth  what  passing  notice  can  be  withdi-awn 
from  the  natural  aspects  surrounding  it.  From  Aosta 
by  vetturino  (diligence)  to  Ivrea ;  thence  by  rail 
ot  Turin-,  etc.     (See  "  Short  Trips  in  Italy.") 


238  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

PASS    AXD   EOUTK    OF   THE    ST.    GOTTHAED. 

By  many  who  have  traversed  it  and  the  others, 
the  pass  of  the  St.  Gotthard  is  considered  the  most 
picturesque  of  all  the  routes  from  Switzerland  to 
Italy ;  and  with  those  who  do  not  care  especially  to 
guard  against  fatigue,  it  may  probably  be  considered 
the  most  popular  of  the  three. 

As  already  indicated  in  the  opening  of  this  paper, 
this  third  route  is  commenced,  ordinarily,  from  Lu- 
cerne, taking  boat  on  the  Lake  to  Fluellen  at  the  ex- 
treme south  end  (called  the  "  Lake  of  the  Canton 
Uri"),  then  by  carriage,  two  or  three  miles,  to 

Altorf,  capital  of  the  Canton  Uri,  a  pleasant  little 
town  of  about  3,000  inhabitants,  with  particular  inter- 
est as  the  scene  where  Gesler  is  believed  to  have  com- 
manded and  Tell  shot  the  apple  from  the  head  of  his 
son  (though  that  distinction  is  disputed  by  Kussnacht, 
at  the  other  or  upper  end  of  Lucerne,  near  the  Rhigi). 
The  most  interesting  objects  it  contains,  are  a  splendid 
modern  colossal  Statue  of  Tell,  with  an  inscription 
from  Schiller;  the  Fountain,  where  the  target-tree 
is  alleged  to  have  stood ;  the  old  Tower,  with  Tell 
frescoes ;  the  very  old  Capucin  Monastery,  with  the 
Bannwald  or  Sacred  Grove  (of  Schiller)  behind  it,  etc. 

At  Altdorf  diligence  is  taken  for  the  entire  ride 
over  the  St.  Gotthard  to  Bellinzona,  occupying  twen- 
ty-two-and-a-half  to  twenty-five  hours ;  and  as  the 
ride  is  to  be  a  long  one  and  through  some  of  the 
most  magnificent  scenery  in  the  world,  care  should 
be  taken  to  avoid  the  inside  middle  seats ^  from  which 
little  or  uothinsr  can  be  seen. 


ACROSS  THE  ALPS  TO  ITALY.  230 

Spine  five  or  six  hours,  southward,  through  the 
magnificently  wild  Valley  of  the  Reuss,  by  Botz- 
lingen,  Klus,  Silinen,  Anistag,  latschi,  Wasen  ;  the 
"  Devil's  Bridge,"  with  wildly-magnificent  pass  and 
fine  fall),  the  Urner  Loch  Tunnel  and  the  beautiful 
rock-hemmed  Valley  of  Uri,  brings 

Andermatt,  the  principal  town  of  the  Valley  and 
section,  with  a  very  old  church  (the  charnel-honsc 
adjoining  corniced  with  skulls),  some  fine  views,  and 
a  splendid  collection  of  minerals  on  sale,  for  those 
who  can  afford  to  buy  them.  Anderniatt  is  also  the 
travelling-centre  of  the  section,  from  Avliich  tourists 
draw  their  supplies  and  make  their  forays  in  every 
direction. 

From  Andermatt  to  Hospenthal,  with  very  fine 
view  on  the  way  of  the  Glacier  of  St.  Anna,  very 
high  in  air  and  singularly  beautiful,  and  a  remarkable 
old  Lombard  tower  standing  on  a  hill  near  the  vil- 
lage. x\t  Hospenthal  the  sharp  ascent  of  the  St, 
Gotthard  (not  single  mountain,  but  range)  may  be 
said  to  commence,  through  a  very  wild  valley  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  Reuss  ;  and  a  somewhat  weary  ride, 
though  with  continual  splendid  views,  is  encoun- 
tered before  reaching  the 

Pass  of  St.  Gotthard  (top),  surrounded  by  several 
small  lakes,  and  with  an  alberge  or  post-station  very 
near,  as  also  a  lately-erected  Hospice,  with  beds  for 
poor  ti-avellers,  and  fine  dogs  kept  for  sale.  At  and 
near  the  summit  snow  lies  on  both  sides  of  the  road, 
generally  nearly  all  summer ;  and  snow-storms  and 
avalanches  are  not  entire  rarities. 

Shortly  after  commencing  the  descent  from  the 
21 


240  SEORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

Hospice,  the  road  crosses  the  Ticino  (German  "  Tes- 
sin");  and  A-ery  near,  an  immense  mass  of  rock  and 
an  inscription  commemorate  the  victory  of  the  Rus- 
sian Suwarrow  over  the  French,  in  1799.  Very  soon 
the  road  enters  the  Val  Tremohx  (Valley  of  Terror), 
a  dismal  valley  into  -which  many  avalanches  fall, 
and  which  is  provided  with  several  heavy  timber 
"  houses  of  refuge  "  against  such  chances.  This  is 
followed  by  the  Valley  of  Airolo,  and  soon  by  the 
village  of  Airolo ;  after  which  the  Can  aria  Valley 
opens  with  its  wondrous  geological  specimens,  and 
the  Defile  of  Stalvedro,  which  was  held  by  600 
French  against  3,000  Russians  for  half  a  day,  in 
1799.  The  route  now  follows,  with  slight  descent, 
along  the  Ticino  ;  by  Piotto,  Dazio  Grande,  Faido, 
etc. ;  through  the  beautiful  Valley  of  Leventina,  the 
scenery  alternately  rugged  and  soft,  with  chestnuts, 
vines  and  mulberries  (trees)  beginning  to  appear,  to 
Giomico,  with  a  fine  old  tower  and  very  ancient 
church,  and  the  waterfall  of  Cremusina  just  beyond  ; 
by  Bodio  and  Pollegio,  where  the  Bi-enno  joins  the 
Ticino,  and  the  hillsides  become  literally  covered 
with  vineyards ;  to  Osogna,  at  the  foot  of  a  singular 
peak ;  then  by  several  small  and  unimportant  vil- 
lages, to 

Bellinzona,  capital  of  the  Canton  of  Tessin,  with 
lofty  walls  and  turrets  and  a  most  picturesque  ap- 
pearance on  approach,  and  with  three  remarkable 
Castles  («I1  Grande,"  "  II  Mezzo,"  and  "  II  Corb6") 
worthy  of  examination,  and  a  fine  bridge  over  the 
Ticino. 

From  Bellinzona  to  Corao  (Lake  of  Como),  by 


ACIiOSS  THE  ALPS  TO  ITALY.  241 

diligence  ;  thence  by  rail  to  Milax,  etc.     (See  "  Short 
Ti-ips  in  Italy.") 

BY   THE    SIMPLOX    KOAD    AND    PASS. 

The  comparatively  small  number  crossing  be- 
tween Switzerland  and  Italy,  who  wish  to  see  Xa- 
poleon's  great  work  and  take  the  Simploii  pass  for 
that  object, — proceed  to  Martigny,  as  if  on  the  way 
to  Chamounix  or  over  the  Great  St.  Bernard ;  then 
proceed  eastward  up  the  Valley  of  the  Illione,  by 
railway,  to 

Sion,  a  town  of  some  5,000  inhabitants,  capital 
of  the  Canton  Valais,  on  the  Sionne  ;  crowned  by 
two  castles  and  with  some  fine  ruins  in  the  neigh- 
borhood ;  also  willi  a  handsome  Cathedral  unci  church 
of  St.  Theodule,  and  enA'irons  of  peculiar  beauty. 
At  Sion  diligence  is  taken  for 

Brieg,  at  the  immediate  foot  of  the  mountains 
(celebrated  by  Dickens  and  Wilkie  Collins  in  "  Xo 
Thoroughfare"').  At  Brieg  (or  if  preferred,  at  Sion) 
diligence  is  taken  for  the  whole  route  to  Arona,  on 
Lake  Maggiore,  Italy.  At  Brieg,  also,  the  ascent 
commences,  the  valley  of  the  Rhone  being  abandoned 
and  the  course  taken  at  first  almost  due  southward. 
Nearly  the  whole  road,  from  Brieg  to  Domo  d'Osso- 
la,  is  one  continued  reminder  of  the  engineering  de- 
termination of  Napoleon,  who  commenced  it  in 
1800-1,  and  finished  it  six  years  later  at  a  cost  of 
15,000,000  francs,  so  that  he  could  take  cannon  over 
the  Alps  with  a  little  less  trouble  than  by  the  Great 
St.  Bernard. 

The  road  is  very  picturesque,  and  the  views  of 


242  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

peaks  and  glaciers  are  often  excellent,  though  not  to 
be  compared  with  those  by  the  St.  Gotthard.  Like 
the  St.  Gotthard,  however,  it  has  many  avalanches, 
and  the  "  houses  of  refuge  "  from  them  are  frequent. 
The  point  of  greatest  interest  is  to  be  found  at  the 

SlmplonCulm  and  Hospice  (the  latter  something 
like  that  of  the  Gt.  St.  Bernax'd,  with  entertainment), 
where  "  a  broad  open  valley  resembling  a  dried-up 
lake,"  bounded  by  snow-capped  heights  and  glaciers,' 
as  it  has  been  well  described,  forms  the  highest  point 
of  the  Pass.  Many  curiosities  of  scenery  exist  in  the 
neighborhood,  for  those  who  have  time  and  spirit  to 
examine  them.  But  the  diligence  pushes  on,  thence, 
downward,  through  the  beautiful  Yal  d'Ossola,  to 
Domo  d'Ossola,  a  handsome  little  Italian  town  ;  by 
Vogogna  and  Ornavasso,  to  Fariolo,  surrounded  by 
luxuriant  olive-groves,  vineyards  and  all  the  evidences 
of  great  fruitfulness.  It  is  near  Fariolo,  too,  that 
are  caught  the  first  glimpses  of  the  beautiful  Lake 
Maggiore,  with  Isola  Madre  and  some  others  of  its 
islands.  Thence  the  shore  of  the  Lake  is  skirted,  by 
a  road  of  solid  masonry,  by  Baveno,  to 

Arona.,  of  no  particular  charm  to  the  tourist, 
except  for  its  location  on  the  Lake.  From  Arona 
by  railway  to  Milan,  Genoa,  Turin,  etc.  (See  "  Short 
Trips  in  Italy.") 


XVIII. 

SHOET  TRIPS  IX  ITALY. 

It  is  of  course  very  difficult,  in  n  single  and  brief 
paper  devoted  to  the  interests  of  the.  short-trip 
tourist  in  Italy,  to  be  even  as  explicit  as  in  some  of 
the  other  countries,  as  to  points  of  peculiar  interest 
— nearly  every  step,  in  that  land  of  natural  beanty, 
and  artistic  and  historic  interest,  being  more  or  less 
a  pilgrimage.  All  that  can  be  attempted,  in  this 
brief  space,  will  be  such  an  arrangement  of  short 
tours  as  seems  most  politic,  with  mention  of  a  few 
of  the  objects  of  first  interest  in  tlie  leading  cities 
visited.  Local  guide-books  and  valot-scrvice  are 
quite  as  useful  in  Italy  as  elsewhere,  and  no  dithculty 
will  be  found  in  procuring  either.  One  hint,  before 
proceeding,  as  to  time.  The  summer  montlis  are  of 
course  the  best  period  for  crossing  the  Alps,  but  July 
and  August  are  neither  comfortable  nor  healthy 
months  for  travel  in  Italy,  unhealthy  miasma  being 
very  common,  and  mosquitoes  and  other  troublesome 
insects  almost  universal. 

RESUME    OF   POINTS    OF    AREIVAL    IX    ITALY. 

It  wall  be  remembered  that  by  the  Mt.  Cenis 
route  (No.  1)  the  tourist  reaches  Italy  at  Susa,  near 
Turin;  that  by  the  St.  Bernard  (Xo,  2)  he  reaches  it 
at  Aosta,  above  Ivrea,  and  still  not  far  from  Turin ; 


244  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

that  by  the  St.  Gotthard  (jSTo.  3)  he  is  disembarked  at 
Bellinzona,  at  the  eastern  end  of  Lake  Maggiore, 
with  nearest  communication  to  Milan ;  and  that  by 
the  Simplon  (No.  4)  he  finds  himself  at  Arona,  on 
the  western  side  of  the  same  lake,  yet  nearer  to  Mi- 
lan. All  these  routes,  however,  end  so  nearly  to- 
gether, in  comparison  to  the  extent  of  Italy  and  dis- 
tance between  the  leading  cities,  that  Avith  a  little 
care  they  may  be  all  made  to  converge  so  as  to  allow 
the  main  features  of  the  hurried  but  comprehensive 
route  about  to  be  traced,  to  be  preserved.  In  order 
to  do  this,  one  of  two  objective  points  needs  to  be 
kept  in  view  as  the  first  visited,  and  indeed  the  two 
must  be  made  to  M^ork  together — Turin  and  Milan. 

TO    AND    AT   TURIN,    MILAN   AND    THE    LAKES. 

The  Mt.  Cenis  passenger  has  but  an  hour's  ride 
by  rail,  from  Susa,— and  the  St,  Bernard  one  only  a 
little  longer  by  diligence  to  Ivrea,  and  then  on  by 
rail,  to 

Turin,  in  Piedmont,  long  the  capital  of  Sardinia, 
and  until  the  removal  to  Florence,  that  of  the  lately- 
erected  Kingdom  of  Italy.  It  has  so  great  an  anti- 
quity as  to  have  been  destroyed  by  the  Emperor 
Constantine  (about  a,  d.  330)  for  assisting  Maxen- 
tius,  when  it  had  already  an  age  of  several  centuries. 
It  has  since  filled  a  notable  place  in  history,  being 
the  seat  of  the  Dukes  of  Savoy  before  and  since  they 
became  Kings  of  Sardinia,  and  standing  two  sieges 
by  the  French,  in  1649  and  1706. 

Turin  lies  on  the  river  Po,  has  a  population  of 
nearly  a  quarter  million,  and  (for  Italy)  much  grow- 


IX  ITALY.  245 

ing  prosperity.  Its  principal  public  l)uildincfs  of  in- 
terest are  the  Royal  Palace,  modern  and  of  no  great 
splendor,  but  with  some  royal  apartments,  statuary 
and  paintings  worthy  of  hasty  notice  ;  the  Royal 
Armory,  with  an  extensive  collection  of  European 
and  Oriental  weapons  and  armor;  the  Pinacotheca, 
or  Royal  Gallery,  with  many  jxaintings  of  interest 
and  some  of  great  merit,  and  a  Museum  of  Antiqui- 
ties in  the  same  building ;  tlie  Palaces  Cangnano 
(formerly  the  Chamber  of  Deputies  of  Sardinia), 
Alfieri,  Sonnaz  and  San  Giorgio ;  tlie  Duomo,  or  Ca- 
thedral of  St.  John  the  Baptist,  with  no  special  archi- 
tectural merit,  but  handsome  interior  decorations,  in 
chapels,  altars,  monuments  (to  members  of  the  House 
of  Savoy)  and  pictures ;  the  Churches  of  La  Conso- 
lato.  Corpus  Domini,  San  Filippo,  etc.,  all  with  a  cer- 
tain interest  in  monuments  and  pictures  witliin ;  and 
the  Basilica  and  Church  of  La  Superga,  in  the  sub- 
urbs, some  four  miles  from  the  city  centre,  with  in- 
teresting monuments  of  the  Savoy  family,  and  a  mag- 
nificent view  of  the  Alps  and  the  surrounding  coun- 
try, from  the  roof  Turin  has  also  at  least  a  dozen 
public  squares  ("Piazzas"),  nearly  all  with  statues 
or  monuments;  a  Cemetery  with  the  resting-places 
of  some  distinguished  persons  ;  and  three  or  four 
bridges  over  the  Po  and  its  little  tributary  the  Dora. 
This  is  among  the  least  interesting  of  the  great 
cities  of  Italy,  and  may  be  even  hurriedly  visited 
without  serious  loss,  but  should  by  no  means  be  alto- 
gether omitted,  even  by  those  who  do  not  necessa- 
rily pass  through  it. 

From  Turin  the  tourist  should  take  rail  to 


246  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

No'oara^  a  town  with  a  Cathedral  or  Duomo  of 
some  architectural  and  artistic  interest,  but  princi- 
pally noted  as  the  spot  near  Avhich  (two  miles  south- 
ward) King  Charles  Albert  of  Sardinia  was  fatally 
defeated  by  the  Austrian,  Radetsky,  in  1849.  From 
No  vara  by  rail  due  northward  to 

Arona  (or  AUesandria),  for  a  view  of 

Lake  Maggiore  ("  Mah-zjo-ree "),  the  second- 
largest  and  by  some  thought  the  most  beautiful  of 
the  lakes  of  Italy — some  forty-live  miles  in  length  by 
an  average  of  three  in  width ;  the  north  banks 
mountainous  and  wooded,  the  south  sloping  and  well 
cultivated ;  the  water  having  the  peculiarity  of  being 
green  at  the  north  end  of  the  lake*  and  deep  blue  at 
the  south ;  and  the  group  of  four  known  as  the  Bor- 
romean  Islands  (Isola  Bella,  Isola  Superiore,  Isola 
Madre  and  Isola  San  Giovanni),  presenting  what  is 
considered  the  acme  of  shaded,  villa-studded  and 
graceful  beauty,  in  that  line  of  scenery. 

Steamers  run  northward  on  the  lake,  several  times 
a  day,  to 

Magadino,  near  the  northern  extremity ;  and  the 
most  beautiful  of  extended  views,  with  a  landing  at 
Isola  Bella  (considered  the  loveliest  of  the  group, 
and  holding  the  magnificent  palace  and  grounds  of 
Count  Borromeo),  may  be  enjoyed  by  taking  one  of 
the  boats  for  the  run  to  Arona  and  return.  From 
Arona  return  by  rail  to  Novara,  thence  direct  by 
rail  for  the  veiy  brief  ride  to 

Milan,  in  Lombardy, — a  walled  town  of  ten 
gates,  of  great  antiquity,  having  been  at  one  time 
only  second  to  Rome,  in  the  Roman  empire,  in  im- 


ly  ITALY.  247 

portance  and  i^opulation.  It  was  afterwards  the 
capital  of  a  Lombard  republic,  tlien  of  a  duchy  in  the 
hands  of  the  powerful  and  auihitious  Visconti  and 
Sforzas.  It  was  held  by  Spain  after  the  battle  of 
Pavia  (defeat  of  Francis  I.  of  France  by  the  Emper- 
or Charles  V.) ;  ceded  by  Spain  to  Austria  in  1714; 
taken  by  the  French  republicans  in  1796,  and  again 
by  Napoleon  after  Marengo,  in  1800.  From  1805  to 
1814  (fall  of  Napoleon)  it  was  the  capital  of  the 
Bonapartan  Kingdom  of  Italy  ;  filling  again  under 
Austrian  control  till  the  cession  of  the  Lombardo- 
Venetian  provinces  to  the  new  Kingdom  of  Italy. 

Milan  has  many  beauties,  but  one  unapj^roacliably 
far  beyond  the  rest  stands 

The  Dxiomo  (Cathedral),  commenced  in  1387,  and 
scarcely  yet  finished ;  built  of  white  marble,  of  im- 
mense size  ;  with  a  central  tower,  spire,  and  a  per- 
fect "  forest  of  pinnacles  "  which  give  it  an  indescri- 
bably light  and  airy  effect,  in  spite  of  its  gigantic 
bulk.  It  has  some  thoxxsands  of  statues  in  its  out- 
ward ornamentation,  and  is  considered  the  finest 
specimen  of  the  Gothic  in  Italy  and  one  of  the 
grandest  structures  in  the  world — second  to  St. 
Peter's,  if  not  indeed  equal  to  it.  Tlie  view  from  its 
roof,  which  can  be  ascended  by  160  steps,  is  wonder- 
fully fine  as  Avell  as  extensive ;  though  those  most 
familiar  with  the  clear  Italian  sky  advise  that  it 
should  always  be  taken  at  sunrise  or  near  sunset. 
Within,  the  Duomo  is  only  less  magnificent  than 
without,  the  Gothic  columns  and  arches  having  im- 
mense height  and  rare  purity,  and  great  wealth  hav- 
ing been  lavished  through  century  after  century  xxpon 


248  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

its  ornamentation.  It  has  a  magnificent  high  altar; 
much  fine  sculpture ;  a  colored  mosaic  pavement 
eliciting  universal  admiration  ;  many  gorgeous  side- 
chapels,  with  tombs,  monuments,  pictures  and  relics, 
demanding  many  hours  for  even  the  most  cursory 
examination,  and  impossible  to  be  even  enumei'ated 
otherwise  than  in  the  easily-attainable  local  guide- 
books; some  magnificent  stained-glass  windows  ;  and 
iu  fine  all  the  splendid  features  of  one  of  the  most 
stupendous  churches  and  rarest  artificial  sights  in  the 
world. 

Great  Churches  (other  than  the  Duomo)  also 
abouud  in  Milan.  Chief  among  these  are  San  Am- 
brogio,  singular  as  well  as  singularly  old,  having 
been  built  in  the  ninth  century,  with  a  very  rare 
altar-front  of  gold-and-silver,  some  antique  relics, 
paintings,  etc, ;  San  Carlo,  with  one  of  the  largest 
domes  in  Europe ;  San  Eustorgio,  with  a  very  beau- 
tiful bell-tower,  some  interesting  works  of  art,  monu- 
ments and  relics ;  San  Fedele,  elaborately  decorated ; 
San  Lorenzo,  with  the  Colonne  di  San  Lorenzo  near 
(said  to  have  been  once  part  of  a  Temple  of  Hercu- 
les) ;  Santa  Maria  la  Madonna,  considered  next  after 
the  Duomo  in  imposing  efiect,  without  and  within  ; 
Santa  Maria  della  Grazie ;  Santa  Maria  della  Pas- 
sione ;  San  Maurizio  Maggiore ;  San  Nazaro ;  San 
Pietro,  etc. 

Palaces  also  abound  in  Milan,  some  of  them  well 
worth  a  visit — ^the  Royal  Palace,  modem,  accessible 
to  visitors,  and  with  some  fine  paintings  ;  the  Arch- 
bishop's Palace,  with  the  same  features  ;  the  Palazzo 
della  Citta  (City  Hall — now  an  Exchange) ;  Loggia 


ly  ITALY.  249 

degl'Ossi;  Palazzo  Borromco  ;  Pal.  Litta  (with  some 
fine  pictures)  ;  Pal.  3Iarino  (now  the  resideuce  of  the 
city  authorities),  etc. 

Besides  these,  if  time  allovrs,  may  well  be  visited 
the  Brera  Museum  (pictures  and  sculpture)  and  Li- 
brary ;  the  Pinacoteca,  with  many  rare  specimens  of 
the  old  masters;  the  Biblioteca  Ambrosiana,  with 
j)ictures,  library  and  many  relics;  the  Museum  of 
Natural  History,  etc. 

Zia  Scala,  the  great  opera-house  and  theatre,  one 
of  the  largest  in  Europe  and  celebrated  in  the  history 
of  song,  should  be  visited  if  any  pci-formances  are 
given  there  during  the  visit ;  and  Milan  has  halt-a- 
dozen  other  leading  theatres  and  places  of  amusement. 

Besides  these,  the  principal  objects  of  interest 
are  to  be  found  in  the  handsome  Public  Gardens ;  the 
immense  Arena,  of  modern  erection  but  on  the  plan 
of  the  ancient  Amphitheatres,  said  to  be  capable  of 
accommodating  30,000  spectators,  where  races,  bal- 
loon-ascents and  other  diversions  are  frequent ;  the 
fine  triumphal  Arco  della  Pace,  etc. 

From  Milan  by  rail  to 

Como,  with  some  architectural  charms  and  a 
lovely  situation,  at  the  Lake-side,  for  a  view  of  the 
beautiful 

Lake  of  Como,  third  of  the  Italian  lakes  in  size, 
but  by  many  thought  the  first  in  beauty, — surround- 
ed by  bold  hills  and  its  shores  dotted  with  luxurious 
villas  and  rich  with  olive-groves  and  vineyards, 
while  it  is  the  very  paradise  of  pleasure-seekers  in 
rowing  and  sailing.  Lake  Como  has  been  best  com- 
memorated by  Rogers  in  his  poem  of"  Italy,"  when  he 


250  SHORT-TBIP   GUIDE. 

"  Turned  prow  and  followed,  landing  soon 

Where  steps  of  purest  matble  met  the  wave ; 
■Where,  through  the  trellises  and  corridors, 
Soft  music  came  as  from  Armida's  palace  " — 

though  the  description  given  by  Biilwer,  in  the 
"  Lady  of  Lyons,"  in  the  passage  commencing :  "  In 
a  deep  vale  shut  out  by  Alpine  hills  from  the  rude 
world,"  etc.,  is  much  more  familiar.  At  all  events, 
to  see  the  Lake  of  Como  and  sail  or  row  upon  it,  is 
one  of  the  first  necessities  of  travel  in  Italy. 

From  Como  return  to  Milan  by  rail,  for  the  route 
eastward  and  southward. 

[This  visit  first  to  Turin  and  afterwards  to  Milan, 
it  will  be  remembered,  has  been  arranged  for  those 
crossing  to  Italy  by  the  Mt.  Cenis  or  St. .  Bernard 
routes ;  for  those  who  arrive  by  the  St.  Gotthard  or 
the  Simplon,  a  difierent  succession  will  be  advisable, 
as  follows : 

For  the  St,  Gotthard  passenger,  disembarked  at 
Bellinzona,  the  best  route  will  be  by  diligence  to 

Magadino^  at  the  head  of  Lake  Maggiore ;  thence 
by  steamboat  (three  times  a  day  in  summer)  down  the 
Lake  to  Arona ;  thence  by  rail  to  Novara,  whence 
the  detour  must  be  made  westward  by  rail  to  Turin, 
if  that  city  is  to  be  visited,  with  return  to  Novara 
and  on  to  Milan.  Or,  on  to  Milan  at  once  from  Xo- 
vara,  leaving  out  Turin,  if  time  and  expense  are  im- 
perative. From  Milan  by  rail  to  Como,  and  return 
to  Milan,  as  in  the  case  of  passengers  by  the  other 
routes. 

For  the  tourist  by  the  Simplon  road,  precisely 
the  same  course  as  that  last  named,  except  the  run 


IX  ITALY.  251 

from  -Bellinzona  to  Arona,  he  having  disembarked 
from  the  route  over  the  Alps  at  the  latter  place.] 

The  passengers  by  all  the  four  crossings  will  thus 
have  accomplished  the  most  desirable  objects  in  the 
noithwest,  and  be  ready  for  the  second  stage  : 

FKOM   MILAN   BY   LAKE    GARDA,    TO    AND    AT   VENICE. 

From  Milan  by  rail,  by  Cassano,  Trevigiio,  Ber- 
gamo (station,  on  the  last  verge  of  the  Alps,  with  a 
notable  church  of  Santa  Maria  Maggiore  and  some 
pleasant  excursions  in  the  neighborhood) ;  Grumello, 
Seriate,  Palazzuola, 

Brescia  (second  city  in  Lombardy, — the  ancient 
Brixia,  with  a  Cathedral  and  some  public  buildings 
and  palaces  of  note),  Ponte  San  Marco,  Lonato,  Ser- 
mione  (with  the  battle-field  of  Solferino  very  near  it 
and  easily  reached  by  carriage),  to 

Peschiera,  on  the  river  Mincio,  at  its  exit  from 
Lake  Garda,  one  of  the  great  fortified  towns  of  Avhat 
used  to  be  the  cqlebrated  '^Austrian  Quadrilateral," 
and  the  southern  port  of  the  steamers  on  the  Lake. 
Excursions  may  easily  be  made  from  it,  by  carriage, 
to  the  First  N^apoleon's  great  battle-field  of  Rivoli, 
and  to 

Lake  Gaeda,  the  largest  of  the  Italian  lakes, 
considered  less  beautiful  than  either  Maggiore  or 
Como,  sometimes  rough  and  dangerous  for  boats,  but 
a  perfect  highway  of  steamers.  The  northern  end 
of  it  is  narrow  and  shut  in  by  the  Alps,  but  the 
southern  shores  are  fertile,  and  the  soft  climate  is 
considered  especially  favorable  for  pulmonary  inva- 
lids. 

22 


252  SHORT-TEIP  GUIDE. 

From  PescMera,  by  rail,  on  by  Castelnuovo  and 
Sorame  Campagna,  to 

Veboxa,  on  the  river  Adige,  second  of  the 
Quadrilateral  cities,  and  heavily  fortified,  like  Pe- 
schiera,  and  with  many  antiquities  and  other  curi- 
osities, but  most  interesting  to  English  readers  as 
the  site  of  Shakspeare's  "  Romeo  and  Juliet,"  and 
"  Two  Gentlemen  of  Verona,"  as  well  as  of  many 
other  plays  and  romances.  It  is  known  to  be  very 
old,  and  has  had  a  most  varied  history  —  among 
other  events,  Marius  having  fought  his  great  battle 
with  the  Cimbri  here,  and  Theodoric  the  Goth  de- 
feated Odoacer.  It  was  at  one  time  the  capital  of 
the  Kingdom  of  Italy,  again  the  seat  of  a  republic, 
and  then  governed  by  petty  dukes  or  princes.  Dur- 
ing the  last  days  of  the  Austrian  supremacy,  it  was 
the  centre  of  the  military  power  of  that  nation  in 
Italy. 

It  has  very  many  objects  demanding  attention, 
but  first  among  them  all,. of  course,  will  come 

Juliefs  Tomh,  in  the  Garden  of  the  Orfanotrofio 
— not  of  much  artistic  merit,  but  notable  as  being 
possibly  the  real  resting-place  of  the  lady  so  immor- 
talized, first  by  Da  Poi'ta,  in  the  novel,  and  after- 
wards and  so  unapproachably  by  Shakspeare.  Next 
comes 

The  Amphitheatre,  another  of  the  old  Roman  re- 
mains, and  said  to  have  held  more  than  20,000  spec- 
tators, originally,  though  much  fewer  when  in  mod- 
ern times  used  as  a  place  for  holiday  shows.  There 
are  also  several  palaces,  particularly  that  of  Del 
Consiglio,  in  front  of  which  are  statues  of  celebrated 


m  ITALY.  253 

natives  of  Verona  —  Pliny  the  Younger,  Cornelius 
Nepos,  Macer,  Catullus,  and  others ;  that  of  Delle 
TJrbe,  with  the  Exchange  near  it,  etc.     Of 

Chicrches,  the  leading  one  is  the  Cathedral  of 
Santa  Maria  Matricolare,  said  to  have  been  orig- 
inally built  in  the  time  of  Charlemagne,  the  archi- 
tecture pleasing,  and  the  statues  and  monuments 
interesting ;  and  there  are  also  that  of  Santa  Maria 
I'Antica,  witli  tombs  of  the  Scaligers ;  that  of  Santa 
Anastasia,  very  beautiful,  without  and  within  ;  that 
of  San  Zenone,  very  old  (1138),  with  curious  archi- 
tecture and  many  odd  interior  ornamentations,  his- 
torical and  mythological  bas  relievos,  etc. ;  those  of 
San  Fermo  Maggiore,  Santa  Maria,  etc.  There  is 
also  a  Pinacoteca,  or  Picture-Gallery,  Avith  many  fine 
paintings  of  the  Veronese  school ;  the  Campo  Santo 
(Cemetery — near  the  Vittoria  Gate)  has  some  good 
monuments;  and  the  Roman  Gates,  Dei  Borsari, 
Dei  Leoni,  etc.,  should  not  be  passed  without  notice. 
Taken  all  in  all,  Verona  will  be  found  one  of  the 
most  interesting  cities  in  Italy,  and,  if  possible,  some 
days  should  be  spent  at  and  arouud  it. 

A  brief  side-excursion  may  be  made  by  rail  from 
Verona  southward  to 

Mantica,  on  the  Mincio  (in  point  of  fact,  in  one 
of  its  "elbows"),  and  surrounded  by  a  group  of 
small  lakes.  It  is  said  to  be  the  oldest  city  in  Italy 
— older  than  Rome,  and  has  a  Duomo  and  some  other 
handsome  churches  (St.  Andrea  the  handsomest),  and 
an  Imperial  Palace  of  five  hundred  rooms,  now  de- 
serted but  still  showing  wonderful  frescoes,  floor- 
mosaics  and  other  features  of  past  elegance.     It  is 


254  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

another  of  the  cities  of  the  Austrian  Quadrilateral, 
and  heavily  fortified,  like  the  others  already  named, 
and  has  additional  celebrity  in  Shakspeare's  locating 
there  part  of  the  "  Two  Gentlemen  of  Verona,"  one 
act  of  "  Romeo  and  Juliet,"  and  the  whole  of  the 
"Taming  of  the  Shrew,"  of  which  the  heroine,  Kath- 
arine, is  still  said  to  live  in  the  spirit  of  the  Mantuaa 
women.     [Return  to  Verona  by  rail.] 

From  Verona  on  by  rail  to 

Vicenza^  at  the  foot  of  Monti  Berici,  and  wi^h 
many  fine  palaces,  a  Cathedral,  Churches,  a  Museum, 
etc.     Thence  by  rail  to 

Padua  (by  carriage,  the  short  distance  from  the 
railway-station  to  the  town),  chiefly  remarkable  for 
its  celebrated  University  (one  of  the  oldest,  largest 
and  best  in  Europe),  its  Cathedral,  Palaces,  Church- 
es, etc.,  and  the  fact  that  here,  too,  Shakspeare  and 
others  have  located  plays  and  romantic  legends. 

From  Padua  by  i-ail  direct  to  one  of  the  chiefest 
of  all  the  Italian  pilgrimages — the  "  Bride  of  the 
Sea," 

Vexice,  on  the  Adriatic,  once  the  mistress  of  the 
commerce  and  half  the  power  of  Europe;  one  of  the 
grandest  of  figures  in  history ;  and  one  of  the  odd- 
est in  geography,  from  the  fact  that  its  streets  are 
canals,  its  conveyances  are  gondolas  (boats),  and 
that  there  is  not  a  horse  within  its  bounds.  Of 
course  its  "  cabs  "  are  also  the  gondolas,  and  the  only 
means  of  extended  locomotion  is  by  them,  there  not 
being  even  much  opportunity  for  walking  ! 

Venice  is  literally  crammed  with  objects  of  inter- 
est, principally  historical  but  many  artistic ;  and  only 


IN  ITALY.  255 

the  briefest  of  resumes  can  be  made  of  the  more  in- 
teresting.    First  in  importance  comes  the 

Piazza  de  San  Marco  (Place  of  St.  Marc),  an  ob- 
long square  in  the  centre  of  the  city,  with  colonnades 
all  around  it.     At  the  east  end  stands  the  great 

Church  of  St.  3Iarc,  a  magniticent  edifice  of  Sara- 
cenic character,  commenced  in  977  and  finished  in 
IIH,  with  the  celebrated  bronze  horses  of  Constan- 
tinople over  the  grand  entrance,  the  pavement  of 
tesselated  marble  (pictorial)  and  the  whole  interior 
crowded  with  objects  of  beauty  and  interest,  with 
the  tomb  of  the  Doge  Andrea  Dandolo  ("  blind  old 
Dandolo  ")  one  of  the  principal.     Near  it  stands  the 

Clock  Tower,  with  -the  Lion  of  St.  Marc  and  a 
Statue  of  the  Virgin ;  and  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  square  the  great 

Lihreria  (Library) ;  and  close  beside  that  the 

Campanile  (Bell-tower)  dating  back  to  902  and 
oflEering  a  wonderful  view  from  the  summit.  Be- 
tween the  Libreria  and  the  landing-place  stand  the 

Two  Columns,  of  granite,  so  often  seen  in  pic- 
tures, the  one  surmounted  by  the  Winged  Lion  of 
St.  Marc  and  the  other  by  a  statue  of  St.  Theo- 
dorus.  Almost  beside  the  church  of  St.  Marc  stands 
the 

Doges'  Palace,  one  of  the  most  perfect  IMoorish 
buildings  in  Europe,  after  the  Alhambra  at  Grenada 
(open  from  9  to  4,  daily,  except  Sundays),  its  halls 
a  Avilderness  of  splendor  in  themselves,  with  mag- 
nificent staircases,  portraits  of  the  Doges,  statuary, 
pictures  (many  of  them  historical)  by  some  of  the 
ablest  pencils  of  the  Venetian  school — the  whole  de- 


256  SEORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

manding  days  in  examination,  with  local  hand-books 
or  intelligent  guides,  and  supplying  one  of  the  finest 
feasts  of  all  European  travel. 

Only  separated  from  the  Palace  by  an  arm  of  the 
Canal,  are  the 

Carceri  (Prisons),  capable  of  holding  400  prison- 
ers, and  graphically  described,  with  many  other  ob- 
jects of  great  interest  at  Venice,  by  Cooper  in  his 
novel  of  "  The  Bravo."  Connecting  them  with  the 
Palace  is  the  covered 

Bridge  of  SigJis,  so  celebrated  in  history,  and 
made  doubly  famous  by  Byron's  lines  in  "  Childe 
Harold": 

"  I  stood  in  Venice,  on  the  Bridge  of  Sighs, 
A  palace  and  a  prison  on  each  hand,"  etc. 

The  Hialto  (bridge),  so  celebrated  through  Shak- 
speare's  "  Merchant  of  Venice,"  lies  at  some  distance 
back  of  the  Piazza  of  St.  Marc,  crossing  the  Grand 
Canal  between  the  islands  of  San  Marco  and  Riva 
Alto,  and  has  streets  and  shops  on  it,  as  London 
Bridge  used  to  have. 

The  Palaces  and  houses  of  note,  at  Venice,  are 
legion ;  but  first  among  them  in  interest,  with  many, 
is  the 

Palazzo  Moro,  where  Cristoforo  Moro,  the  Othello 
of  Shakspeare,  is  said  to  have  resided.  Not  many 
of  them,  or-of  the  numberless  churches,  can  be  vis- 
ited by  the  short-trip  tourist,  who  should  not  fail, 
however,  to  visit  the  wonderful 

Pinacoteca  (picture-gallery — open  from  12  to  3) 
with  600  fine  paintings,  most  of  them  of  the  Vene- 


IX  ITALY.  257 

tian  schools,  distributed  through  twenty  rooms.  A 
visit  should  also  be  paid  to 

The  Arsenal  (open  daily,  10  to  4),  in  which  may 
be  seen  the  standard  of  the  Turkish  Admiral,  taken 
by  Don  John  of  Austria  at  Lepanto  ;  a  model  of  the 
Bucentoro  or  Doge's  galley,  in  Avhicli  he  wedded  the 
Adriatic;  many  magnificent  suits  of  armor,  etc. 

It  should  be  noted,  before  passing,  that  there  are 
some  thirty-five  churches  in  Venice,  besides  San 
Marc — of  interest  to  those  whose  time  will  allow 
visiting  them. 

The  Gondolas  will  natui-ally  be  tried  by  the  tour- 
ist, in  the  course  of  his  visits ;  and  a  very  good  idea 
of  the  appearance  of  the  Lagoon  and  the  openings 
into  the  Adriatic  may  be  found  by  taking  ferry-boat 
or  gondola  to 

Murano  or  Torcello,  large  islands  in  the  Lagoon. 

VENICE  TO  FLORENCE  AND  EOME,  BY  FERKAEA,  BO- 
LOGNA, PISA  AND  LEGHORN. 

From  Venice  by  rail,  by  Rovigo  (where  one  of 
the  First  Napoleon's  important  early  battles  was 
fought)  to 

Ferrara,  a  very  old  Roman  town,  famous  for  the 
sword-blades  that  used  to  bear  the  name  of  the  great 
maker,  "Andrew  of  Ferrara,"  with  a  Cathedral  and 
Castle,  both  of  some  pretension;  thence  over  a  flat 
and  highly-cultivated  country,  with  no  features  of 
the  picturesque,  to 

Bologna,  famous  for  its  University  and  its  sau- 
sages, as  also  for  having  been  the  nurse  of  a  school 
of  painting  producing  Guido,  Domenichino,  the  Ca- 


258  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

raccis,  etc.  It  is  handsomely  situated,  and  literally 
crowded  with  palaces,  worthy  of  attention  from  any 
one  with  abundant  leisure,  especially  for  the  sake  of 
the  fine  paintings  abounding  everywhere ;  but  the 
short-trip  tourist  will  necessarily  push  on  to 

JPistoJa,  where  the  rail  intersects  that  from  Leg- 
horn,— thence  to 

Florence,  on  the  river  Arno,  and  in  the  midst  of 
the  beautiful  valley  to  which  the  river  gives  name — 
the  Yal  d'Arno.  It  is  divided  by  the  Arno,  some- 
thing like  London  and  Paris,  and  the  communication 
is  made  by  four  handsome  bridges  within  the  city 
limits  and  two  in  the  suburbs.  Thei*e  are  walls  en- 
tirely surrounding  it — ancient,  but  rebuilt,  with  eight 
gates  and  two  fortresses  (Da  Basso,  north,  and  Di 
Belvedere,  south),  breaking  the  line.  One  of  the 
finest  promenades  on  the  globe,  the  quay  called 

The  Lung'  Arno^  extends  along  the  north  bank 
of  the  river,  the  houses  on  the  south  side  literally 
overhanging  the  water ;  and  the  whole  city  is  so  em- 
bowered in  trees  and  so  enchanting  in  every  detail 
of  the  quietly  picturesque,  that  the  tourist  will  have 
little  difficulty  in  agreeing  with  the  dictum  which 
assigns  it  the  place  of  the  handsomest  city  in  Eu- 
rope. 

Since  1866,  as  is  well  known,  Florence  has  been 
the  capital  of  the  Kingdom  of  Italy  (removed  from 
Turin) ;  previous  to  the  late  revolutions  it  held  the 
place  of  capital  of  the  Grand  Duchy  of  Tuscany. 

Remarking  a  few  of  the  most  notable  curiosities 
of  the  favored  city,  the  first  in  order  will  come 
the 


IN  ITALY.  259 

^itti  J'alace,  the  residence  of  the  King-  of  Italy — 
commenced  in  the  fifteenth  century,  and  with  many 
beauties  of  architecture  added  to  great  extent,  hut 
especially  famous  for  the  wonderful  collection  of 
works  of  art  in  the  great  Picture-Gallery, — more 
than  500  in  number,  and,  as  alleged  by  experts,  not 
one  daub  among  them,  while  many  of  the  very  finest 
works  of  Titian,  Raphael,  Salvata  Rosa,  Rubens,  Al- 
bert Durer,  Guercino,  Andrea  del  Sarto,  Leonardo 
da  Yinci,  Vandyke,  Perugino,  Carlo  Dolci,  etc,  liter- 
ally dazzle  and  confuse  the  unaccustomed  beholder, 
and  statuary  from  the  most  celebrated  chisels,  an- 
cient and  modern,  serves  to  fill  up  the  measure  of 
wonder.  (Open  daily  from  9  to  3,  except  on  Sundays 
from  10  to  3  and  on  Mondays  12  to  3.) 

Next  to  the  collection  at  the  Pitti  Palace  comes 
that  of  the 

Galleria  Uffizi  ("  official,"  formerly  "  Royal " 
Gallery),  above  the  Italian  Senate  Chamber,  con- 
taining another  magnificent  collection  of  paintings, 
sculpture,  bronzes,  etc.  (Open  at  the  same  hours  as 
the  Pitti,  except  that  on  Tuesdays,  here,  instead  of 
Mondays,  there,  the  admissions  are  from  12  to  3 — 
complete  catalogues  at  the  door.)  This  building  was 
erected  by  Duke  Cosmo  I.  (De  Medicis),  and  has 
many  charms  of  architecture.  In  the  "  Tribune  "  of 
this  palace  are  collected  the  rarest  of  the  rare  in  dif- 
ferent walks  of  art — among  others,  the  original  "  Ve- 
nus de' Medicis,"  Raphael's  "Fornarina";  Titian's 
"  Recumbent  Venuses  "  ;  Volterra's  "  Massacre  of 
the  Innocents  " ;  Perugino's  "  Holy  Family  "  ;  Cor- 
reggio's  "  Adoration  of  the  Virgin  " ;  Michael  Ange- 


260  SEORT-TEIP  GUIDE. 

lo's  "Virgin  and  St.  Joseph"  ;  Vandyke's  "Charles 
v.",  etc. 

There  are  some  twenty  or  thirty  other  Palaces, 
Museums  and  Galleries,  but  the  short-trip  tourist  will 
scarcely  find  time  for  more  than  the  two  mentioned  ; 
turning  then  to  the  Churches,  and  first  to  the  gigantic 

Santa  Croee  ("  Holy  Cross  "),  in  handsome  Goth- 
ic-Italian, with  a  had  steeple.  The  principal  charm, 
however,  lies  within,  in  the  splendid  columns  and 
roof;  the  tomb  of  Michael  Angelo  (buried  here) ; 
monuments  to  Dante  and  Alfieri,  respectively  by 
Ricci  and  Canova ;  frescoed  walls  and  gorgeous  side- 
chapels;  and  so  much  of  fine  painting  and  sculpture 
that  the  church-character  of  the  edifice  is  well-nigh 
forgotten  in  that  of  the  picture-gallery.  In  some  re- 
spects Santa  Croce  must  yield  to 

The  Dxiomo  (Cathedral  of  Santa  Maria  del  Fiore), 
commenced  in  the  fifteenth  century  and  not  nearly 
completed.  It  has  (as  alleged)  the  largest  dome  in 
the  world,  and  a  rare  •  peculiarity  in  the  coating  of 
the  whole  exterior  with  a  mosaic  of  various-colored 
marbles ;  and  within  there  is  much  of  interest,  in 
architecture  and  works  of  art — the  most  notable  fea 
ture  in  the  former  being  the  Baptistery,  with  gran- 
ite columns  and  mosaic  floor,  and  in  the  latter  a  mar- 
ble group  of  the  "  Deposition  of  Christ,"  left  unfinish- 
ed by  Michael  Angelo  at  his  death.  Adjoining  the 
Duomo, 

The  Campanile^  or  bell-tower,  is  of  four  stories, 
in  delicate  Gothic-Italian,  nearly  300  feet  in  height, 
and  considered  the  finest  structure  of  its  class  in  the 
world. 


m  ITALY.  261 

The  other  most  notable  churches  in  Florence  are 
San  Ambrogio,  Santa  Annunziata,  SS.  Apostoli,  La 
Badia,  II  Carmme,  Santa  Felicita,  San  Lorenzo,  San 
Marco,  Santa  Maria  Novella,  San  Michele,  Santa 
Spirito,  Santa  Trinita,  etc. 

The  public-grounds  and  suburbs  of  Florence  are 
very  delightful,  and  while  the  former  should  be  visited 
and  enjoyed,  especially  the  Piazzas  Dell'  Annunziata, 
Santa  Croce,  Del  Gran'  Duca,  etc. — the  latter  should 
receive  attention,  if  possible,  in  excursions  to 

FiesoU  (by  carriage  or  on  foot),  to  catch  the  fine 
view  over  the  city,  see  the  old  Etruscan  ruins  and 
the  very  old  Cathedral  there ; — and  to 

Yallombrosa  (of  the  "thick  leaves"),  occupying 
a  day  by  going  to  Pontassieve  by  rail,  and  thence  to 
the  Shady  Vale  of  the  Hills,  and  the  Convent,  by 
carriage  to  Pelago  and  light  carriage  or  on  foot  for 
the  remaining  distance.  The  views  caught  in  this 
latter  excursion  will  be  found  wonderfully  fine  ;  and 
the  eating  of  a  fresh  fish-dinner  Avith  the  Monks  is  a 
pleasure  to  be  remembered. 

From  Florence  by  rail,  by  Prato,  Pistoja  and 
Pescia,  to 

Lucca,  principally  notable  for  its  Baths,  which 
lie  about  fifteen  miles  distant  and  need  about  one 
day  to  make  the  excursion  (by  carriage)  and  return ; 
thence  by  rail  to 

Pisa,  of  which  the  principal  curiosities  are  tlie 
Duomo,  or  Cathedral ;  the  celebrated  Leaning  Toav- 
er,  or  Campanile ;  and  the  Campo  Santo,  or  Holy 
Field,  a  covered  colonnaded  space  of  considerable  ex- 
tent, the  ground  formed  of  earth  brought  from  Mount 


262  SHORT-TRIP   OUIDE. 

Calvary  by  fifty-three  Pisan.  vessels,  after  the  taking 
of  Palestine  from  the  Christians  by  Saladin — and  the 
whole  filled  with  the  monuments  of  those  buried 
there,  through  all  the  ages  until  it  was  full,  from  an 
Emperor  to  a  mere  successful  surgeon.  Of  the  Lean- 
ing Tower  it  may  be  said  that  it  would  be  no  attrac- 
tion whatever  but  for  the  fact  of  its  leaning,  and  that 
consequently  the  half-crazy  builder  has  achieved  what 
he  attempted — a  sensation. 

From  Pisa,  by  rail,  direct  to 

Leghorn  (Italian  "Li vorno"),  an  old  seaport  on 
the  Gulf  of  Genoa,  with  very  little  other  attraction 
than  the  fact  that  the  ships  and  flags  of  all  nations 
may  generally  be  seen  in  the  antiquated  old  port 
and  roads: 

From  Leghorn,  either  by  rail  to  La  Annunzia- 
tella,  and  thence  by  diligence — or  by  steamer  down 
the  Gulf  of  Genoa,  with  views  of  the  Italian  coast, 
island  of  Elba  (Xapoleon's  prison),  and  possibly  Cor- 
sica (the  place  of  his  birth),  to 

Civita  Yecchia  (port  of  Rome),  another  seaport 
of  much  smaller  size  and  no  consequence  at  all  ex- 
cept in  connection  with  the  historical  arrivals  and 
departures  for  and  from  the  Holy  City,  which  it  has 
witnessed.  From  Civita  Vecchia  by  rail,  by  Santa 
Severa,  Ponte  Galera  and  La  Magliana,  to 

ROME   i:?^   A   HURKT. 

RoATE,  on  the  little  river  Tiber,  something  less 
than  twenty  miles  from  its  mouth;  with  the  Seven 
HUls  underlying  it,  tlie  Papal  residence  within  it,  a 
population  of  about  200,000,  and  so  vast  and  varied 


m  ITALY.  2G.3 

a  history,  from  the  time  when  Romulus,  its  founder, 
was  (or  was  not)  suckled  by  a  wolf,  and  that  time, 
not  lono-  aiter,  when  its  male  population,  very  wife- 
hungry,  carried  off  the  Sabine  women  to  fill  that 
office — that  the  brain  reels  in  the  very  attempt  to 
recount  rather  what  it  has  not  seen  than  what  it  has ! 
Once  the  Pagan  capital  of  the  world,  then  the  Chris- 
tian— the  besieged  and  taken,  the  triumphant,  the 
abhorred,  the  idolized,  the  knelt-to  by  Kings  and  the 
defied  by  men  with  no  power — the  city  which  has 
alternately  enlightened  and  enslaved  mankind,  in 
letters,  art  and  religion — it  is  scarcely  wonderful 
that  pilgrims  from  all  climes  flock  to  it  to-day,  as 
they  have  flocked  for  nearly  two  thousand  years,  and 
that  it  is  reckoned  the  end  and  goal  of  European 
travel,  as  Jerusalem  is  considered  that  of  journeys 
in  the  East. 

It  has  already  been  said  that  scarcely  a  foot  of 
Italian  soil  is  other  than  a  pilgrimage ;  Init  the  re- 
mark applies  with  tenfold  force  to  Rome,  where  the 
traveller  is  surrounded  by  so  many  relics  of  anti- 
quity and  gloi'ies  of  art  that  each  one  almost  takes 
away  from  the  importance  of  the  other.  In  no  place 
in  Europe,  meanwhile,  is  intelligent  guidance  (wheth- 
er of  friends  or  valet)  more  necessary  to  the  hurried 
traveller,  than  at  and  around  the  Eternal  City ;  but 
local  guide-books,  in  English  as  well  as  Italian,  are 
numerous  and  easily  procured,  and  another  advan- 
tage is  to  be  found  in  the  fact  that  of  late  years  the 
English  and  Americans  have  partially  taken  pos- 
session of  Rome,  as  they  have  almost  entirely  taken 

possession  of  Paris.     Within  the  scope  of  the  pres- 
23 


264  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

ent  volume,  it  is  neither  possible  nor  desirable  to  do 
more  than  mention  a  few  of  the  more  preeminent 
objects  of  interest,  leaving  "all  details  to  the  local 
authorities. 

First  among  these  curiosities,  of  course,  comes 
St.  Peter's,  the  largest  church  in  the  world,  built 
on  the  site  where  once  stood  a  temple  of  Jupiter 
(whence  the  jest  of  Rev.  Sidney  Smith,  of  the  building 
and  a  celebrated  statue  within,  that  "there  had  only 
been  a  change  in  spelling — '  Jupiter '  ha\'ing  merely 
given  way  to  'Jew-Peter'").  The  first  structure  on 
the  spot  is  said  to  have  been  an  oratory  built  within 
the  first  century  on  the  burial-place  of  St.  Peter,  and 
the  first  church-erection  one  by  Constantine  the 
Great  —  of  course  after  his  miraculous  conversion. 
The  present  building  was  commenced  under  Pope 
Julius  II.,  in  the  sixteenth  century ;  but  the  wonder- 
ful dome  is  ascribed  at  a  much  later  period  to  Mi- 
chael Angelo ;  the  immense  colonnades  which  sweep 
round  on  either  side  from  the  piazza  (enclosing  a 
space  of  nearly  eight  hundred  feet)  were  designed  by 
Bernini ;  and  the  front  is  credited  to  Carlo  Mademo, 
who  "  improved  "  upon  the  plans  of  Michael  Angelo 
after  a  not-very-rare  system  of  altering  at  whatever 
cost. 

Some  faint  idea  may  be  formed  of  its  immense 
size  by  a  few  figures,  from  which  it  api3ears  that  the 
fafade  (or  front)  is  379  feet  long  and  148^  ^^ig^ — 
that  the  full  length  of  the  interior  is  613  feet  (a  little 
more  than  three  blocks  of  a  !Rew  York  street) ;  the 
length  of  the  transepts  (cross)  446^;  the  height  of 
the  naves,  152^ ;  the  interior  diameter  of  the  great 


IN  ITALY.  265 

dome  which  crowns  it,  139;  and  the  exterior,  195^; 
the  height  from  the  pavement  to  the  base  of  the 
lantern,  405  ;  and  to  the  top  of  the  cross,  468.  The 
curious  calculation  was  made,  some  years  ago,  that 
a  dozen  churches  of  the  size  of  the  Xew  York  Trin- 
ity could  be  set  within  it,  the  fronts  and  steeples 
grouped  around  in  a  close  circle,  and  there  would  be 
abundant  room,  while  the  top  of  the  cluster  of  spires 
would  not  reach  within  an  hundred  feet  of  the  inside 
of  the  dome ! 

The  sensation  created  by  the  great  church,  from 
without,  is  really  indescribable,  as  it  towers  over  the 
city  on. approach,  at  an  incalculable  distance  ;  but  it 
is  doubtful  whether  the  impression,  standing  within, 
under  the  mighty  dome  and  in  the  midst  of  its  splen- 
dors in  ornamentation,  wealth  of  bronze,  colored 
marbles,  altar-decorations  and  monuments,  is  not 
even  more  overwhelming  than  in  viewing  it  without. 
Those  who  ascend  the  dome  (as  all  may  do,  entering 
before  11a.  m.,  by  obtaining  an  order  through  the 
Minister  or  Consul  of  their  particular  nation,  but  all 
do  not  do  !)  say  that  the  view  from  the  top  is  mag- 
nificent beyond  comparison,  Kome,  the  Tiber,  the 
Appian  Way,  the  Carapagna,  the  distant  sea,  all 
seeming  at  the  very  feet,  and  humanity  in  the  street 
looking  like  so  many  little  ci'awling  insects  ! 

Of  course  tlie  crowning  charm  of  St.  Peter's  is 
found  in  the  religious  services  and  the  rare  music 
which  forms  so  large  a  pai-t  of  them.  The  best  of 
these,  however,  are  only  attainable  at  a  few  periods 
in  the  year,  and  most  of  them  in  the  winter  and 
early  spring  (favorite  time  for  being  at  Rome).     The 


266  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

most  noted  of  these  are  the  Grand  Masses  on  Chi'ist- 
mas  and  New- Year  Day,  and  the  6eremonies  which 
follow  throughout  the  month  and  extend  into  Feb- 
ruary. Yet  more  impressive  than  these  are  the 
round  of  exercises  of  Holy  "Week,  commencing  on 
Palm  Sunday,  and  with  a  separate  musical  and  scenic 
splendor  for  Ash  Wednesday  and  Holy  Thursday, 
culminating  on  Good  Friday  and  Easter  Sunday. 
The  only  summer  festival  is  on  June  28th  and  29th, 
when  the  procession  of  Coi-pus  Domini  and  grand 
masses  take  place.  These  are  the  only  occasions  on 
which  the  full  splendors  of  the  body  of  the  Church 
or  of  the  celebrated  Sistine  Chapel  (properly  Sixtine) 
can  be  witnessed,  and  then  only  by  ladies  in  black, 
with  black  veils,  and  gentlemen  in  full  evening  dress. 
Vespers  are  sung  every  evening,  from  3  to  4^,  in  one 
of  the  side-chapels,  and  this  must  content  those  who 
miss  the  great  festivals. 

Next  after  St.  Peter's  (of  churches)  comes 
The  JLateran,  where  the  popes  are  always  crowned, 
alleged  to  have  been  begun  by  Constantine  in  the 
fourth  century,  and  formerly  ranking  even  before  St. 
Peter's.  Its  colonnaded  front  is  magnificent,  and 
the  interior  is  a  mass  of  chapels,  splendor,  monu- 
ments and  relics — among  tlie  latter  of  which  may  be 
mentioned  a  cedar  table  on  which  the  Last  Supper  is 
alleged  to  have  been  eaten,  while  there  is  a  staircase 
shown,  without,  claimed  to  have  been  that  of  Pilate's 
house,  up  which  Christ  was  led  to  be  judged !  The 
principal  religious  ceremonies  at  the  Laterau  occur 
on  the  Saturday  before  Easter,  on  Ascension  Day, 
and  on  the  festival  of  St.  John  the  Baptist. 


Z.V  ITALY.  267 

The  number  of  other  churches  in  and  about 
Rome  is  literally  legion.  They  cannot  all  be  visited, 
except  by  those  who  tarry  long ;  and  ignoring  them,  in 
the  present  connection,  it  will  be  necessary  to  turn  to 

The  Vatican,  Capitol  of  Rome  and  j^alace  of  the 
Popes,  lying  to  the  right  of  St.  Peter's  and  entered 
by  the  right  colonnade  of  that  edifice.  Tlie  number 
of  chambers  in  its  three  stories  and  adjoining  build- 
ings are  variously  estimated  at  5,000  to  13,000;  and 
the  cluster  certainly  covers  a  space  of  some  1,200 
feet  in  length  by  1 ,000  in  breadth.  Within  the  Vat- 
ican is  found  the 

Sistine  Chapel,  where  a  part  of  the  exercises  of 
Holy  Week  take  place, — rich  in  every  detail  of  dec- 
oration, and  especially  in  the  great  frescoes  of  Mi- 
chael Angelo  and  others,  the  "  Last  Judgment "  of 
that  master,  and  one  of  the  world's  wonders,  being 
the  most  notable  feature.     But  it  is  to  the 

Galleries  of  the  Vatican  that  the  tourist's  A'isit  is 
principally  paid,  after  all,  for  in  these  almost  endless 
rooms  are  gathered  the  grandest  works  of  art  of  a 
world.  Raphael's  greatest  works  are  here,  in  fresco 
and  in  oil, — headed  by  his  "  Transfiguration  " — so 
many  that  for  even  their  names  the  local  guide-book 
and  catalogue  must  be  referred  to.  Then,  many  of 
the  masterpieces  of  Giulio  Romano,  Perugino,  Mu- 
rillo  ("Marriage  of  Saint  Catharine,"  among  others), 
Domenichino  ("Communion  of  St.  Jerome,"  etc.), 
Titian  ("Madonna  and  Child,"  etc.),  Guido,  Paul 
Veronese,  Correggio,  and  in  fact  all  the  giants  of 
ancient  art,  making  the  collection  unparalleled  in 
extent,  interest  and  value.     Then  follow  ancient  and 


268  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

modern  sculpture  in  almost  equal  profusion,  with  the 
celebrated  group  of  the  "  Laoeoon  "  (sung  by  Byron), 
the  "Apollo  Belvidere"  (ditto),  the  "Cupid"  of 
Praxiteles,  the  "Amazon,"  the  "Ariadne,"  etc.,  to 
lead  the  sense  of  admiration. 

But  long  before  traversing  and  inspecting  all 
these,  the  tourist  will  have  turned  to  the  special  and 
mighty  antiquities  of  Rome,  to  the 

Walls,  a  part  of  them  so  veiy  old,  so  many  times 
destroyed  and  rebuilt,  and  with  their  odd  old  fortifi- 
cations ;  to  the 

bridges,  of  which  something  more  than  half-a- 
dozen  cross  the  Tiber,  nearly  all  ancient — tracing 
out  particularly  the  remains  of  the  Sublicius,  where 

"  Horatius  kept  the  bridge, 

lu  the  brave  days  of  old ! " 
to  the 

Seven  Sills,  now  more  than  half  uninhabited, 
though  he  will  find  no  difficulty,  history  assisting,  in 
tracing  out  the  Aventine,  the  Palatine,  the  Caelian, 
the  Esquiline,  the  Viminal,  theQuirinal  and  the  Capi- 
toline,  the  two  latter  being  really  the  only  ones  that 
can  be  said  to  be  dwelt  upon.     He  will  have  visited 

The  Forum,  and  seen  the  wonderful  grouping  of 
antiquities  all  around  it,  the  very  names  of  which,  in 
one  cluster,  would  fill  pages  here,  as  they  have  done 
in  history.     He  will  have  climbed  to 

The  Capitol,  remembered  the  victors  and  the 
vanquished  who  went  up  there,  wished  that  they 
would  let  him  ascend  the  Tower  (as  they  will  not) 
for  the  best  view  over  Rome, — then  stood  beside  the 
"Dying  Gladiator"  in  the  hall  of  that  name,  and 


IX  ITALY.  269 

wondered  whether  that  marvellous  statue  or  Byron's 
description,  is  best ;  then  "wound  away  from  the  Cajji- 
tol  to  the 

Tcayeiaii  lioc/c,  from  which  they  thrt.'w  the  con- 
demned, and  doubted  whether  the  fall  would  alwa3'S 
be  fatal;  and  then — culmination  of  all — stood  within 

T/ie  Coliseum  ("Colosseum"),  by  daylight  and 
if  possible  by  moonlight,  beholding  at  once  the  re- 
remains  of  the  mightiest  structure  ever  raised  by  the 
hand  of  man — the  Pyramids  alone  excepted  —  and 
the  record  of  a  historical  cruelty  unparalleled  even 
in  thought.  The  Coliseum  is  known  to  have  been 
built  iu  honor  of  Titus,  conqueror  of  Jerusalem,  and 
tradition  says  that  60,000  captive  Jews  weie  engaged 
for  ten  years  upon  it,  while,  at  its  inauguration,  a,  d. 
71,  5,000  animals  and  10,000  of  those  less  valuable 
animals,  captives,  were  slain.  It  is  alleged  to  have 
given  seats  to  87,000  spectators ;  and  even  that  may 
be  possible,  when  it  is  remembered  that  the  cii'cum- 
ference  is  1,641  feet  and  the  height  of  the  outer  wall 
157,  the  whole  covering  six  acres.  Before  going  to 
the  Coliseum,  however,  unless  the  passage  is  "  by 
heart,"  no  one  should  fail  to  read  over  again  that 
wonderful  description  of  Byron : 

"  On  such  a  night 
I  stood  within  the  Coliseum's  wall, 
'Mid  the  chief  relics  of  almighty  Rome. 
The  trees  which  grew  along  the  broken  arches 
Waved  dark  in  the  blue  midnight,"  etc. 

There  are  a  thousand  other  objects  of  interest,  in 
and  around  Rome,  but  when  the  tourist  has  seen 
these,  and  the  gigantic 


270  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

Castle  of  St.  Angelo  (once  Hadrian's  Tomb) ;  the 

Pantheon,  in  wonderful  preservation,  though 
built  by  Agrippa,  about  A.  D.  30  or  40,  as  the  mon- 
ument of  old  Roman  genius,  but  now  doubly  sacred 
as  containing  the  Tomb  of  Raphael ;  the 

Arch  of  Titus,  and  the  Baths  of  the  same  Em- 
peror, with  a  few  hundred  ruined  temples,  etc.,  and 
driven  out  on  the 

Appian  Way  to  Albano  and  its  Lake,  with  in- 
teresting remains  studding  the  whole  Carapagua, — 
and  visited  a  few  of  the  sculptors'  studios, — he  may 
be  said  to  have  "  done  "  Rome  quite  as  well  as  can 
be  expected  of  the  short-trip  traveller. 

(Before  leaving  Rome  it  shoiild  be  said  that  May 
and  June  are  the  pleasantest  months  there,  and  that 
possibly  August  and  September  are  the  least  so ; 
while,  in  spite  of  a  lieavy  atmosphere  not  favorable 
to  the  lungs,  a  "  winter  at  Rome  "  is  held  to  be  "  not 
a  bad  thing  to  do.") 

BOME  TO  NAPLES  AND  XORTHWAED. 

From  Rome  direct,  by  Albano,  Capua,  Frascati, 
Caserta,  etc.,  in  nine  to  ten  hours,  to 

Naples,  on  the  Bay  of  the  same  name,  now  the 
largest  city  in  Italy  (with  nearly  half  a  million  in- 
habitants), and  for  a  long  period  one  of  the  most 
popular  of  resorts  for  tourists  and  invalids.  It  was, 
until  the  late  formation  of  the  Kingdom  of  Italy,  the 
capital  of  the  Kingdom  of  Xaples,  ruled  by  Bourbon 
princes  except  during  the  brief  period  of  the  occu- 
pation of  the  throne  by  Xapoleon's  proxy,  Joachim 
Murat.    It  is  also  the  very  paradise  of  beggars — bad 


7xY  ITALY.  271 

enough  throughout  Italy,  but  here  unendurable  ; 
and  to  be  either  penniless  or  deaf  and  blind  is  rather 
a  blessing  than  otherwise  to  the  traveller,  just  here. 
Much  curiosity,  to  those  fond  of  such  things,  is  to  be 
found  in  the  port,  with  extended  bi-eak-water  piers, 
or  "  moles,"  and  in  the  fortifications  near,  that  have 
once  been  formidable  but  are  now  dismantled  or 
used  for  barracks,  etc. 

The  buildings  of  most  importance  are  the 

Royal  Palace^  some  three  hundred  years  old,  of 
which  some  of  the  rooms  are  shown,  witli  a  few  good 
pictures  ;  the 

Castle  of  St.  Elmo,  standing  on  the  hill  directly 
back  of  the  central  port  and  fortifications,  once  very 
formidable  and  feared  by  the  inhabitants  as  a  "  con- 
tinual threat,"  but  now  used  for  barracks,  like  those 
at  the  water-side  ;  the 

Museo  Naziotiale,  with  its  great  collection  of 
antiquities  from  Pompeii  and  Herculaneuni,  and  the 
Farnese  collection  from  Rome  (open,  except  on 
Monday,  from  9  to  3,  and  Sundays  from  9  to  1), 
forming  one  of  the  most  interesting  gatherings  of 
the  antique,  in  all  Europe  ;  the 

Cathedral,  dating  from  1272  to  1420,  with  con- 
siderable pretensions  in  architecture,  some  statues 
worth  noting,  at  the  entrance,  and  some  frescoes, 
paintings  and  historical  tombs  within  ;  the 

Church  of  Santa  Chiara,  interesting  as  being  the 
burial-place  of  the  Neapolitan  Bourbons  and  having 
many  of  their  monuments  ;  that  of 

San  Domenico,  considered  the  handsomest  in 
Kaples,  antique,  but  restored,  with  some  good  mon- 


272  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

uments  and  pictures,  etc.  (The  other  300  churches 
of  the  city  are  mostly  very  uninteresting,  and  many 
of  them  shockingly  out  of  repair.) 

Very  much  of  the  interest  of  sojourn  at  Naples, 
however,  will  be  found  entirely  removed  from  the 
city  itself — in  the  lovely 

Bay  of  Naples^  considered  one  of  the  finest,  in 
every  point  of  view,  in  the  world,  with  its  great 

Isle  of  Ischia  and  some  other  and  smaller,  lying 
at  the  north  lip  of  the  Bay,  and  the  more  diminutive 
but  more  beautiful 

Isle  of  Gapri^  holding  a  similar  position  across  the 
Bay  from  the  city,  at  the  south  lip ;  in  the  aspects  of 

Mount  Vesuvius,  lying  a  few  miles  east  and 
south  of  the  city,  in  full  view,  and  easily  reached,  by 
those  who  wish  to  make  the  excursion  and  ascent, 
by  the  short  railway  to  Resina  (where  guides  can  be 
procured),  thence  on  horseback  up  the  mountain-side 
to  the  Hermitage,  thence  to  the  top  on  foot — the 
whole  excursion  and  return  occupying  a  laborious 
but  most  interesting  day.  The  volcano  may  or  may 
not  happen  to  be  in  a  state  of  eruption ;  but  at  all 
events,  the  debris,  or  "  hash,"  of  what  it  has  already 
done,  may  prove  to  be  quite  sufficient,  even  if  a 
stream  of  flowing  lava  should  not  chance  to  be  met 
coming  down  as  the  tourist  is  going  up  ! 

(It  is  to  be  presumed  that  no  born  American, 
making  this  excursion,  will  need  to  be  advised  to 
obey  the  guides,  keep  at  the  windward  side  of  the 
crater,  and  avoid  tumbling  into  the  same — in  the 
which  tumble  he  would  be  likely  to  illustrate  Latini- 
ty  on  its  own  ground  and  discover  the  meaning  of 


ly  ITALY.  273 

"/acilis  descensus  Averni,^''  williout  consulting  the 
books  !  Any  undue  exposures  in  tliis  direction,  as 
in  climbing  Swiss  glaciers,  should  be  left  to  mad- 
men, members  of  the  English  "Alpine  Club,"  and 
people  who  have  their  lives  heavily  insiired  without 
any  proviso  against  suicide.) 

The  next  excursion,  also  occupying  one  day,  will 
be  that  to 

Pompeii  and  Serculaneum,  the  two  cities  buried 
by  an  eruption  of  the  before-named  (and  visited)  Ve- 
suvius, in  A.  D.  79  if  the  history  of  the  aftair  is  to 
be  credited.  The  visit  may  be  made  either  by  rail- 
way, to  Ilerculaneum  first,  leaving  at  an  early  hour 
in  the  morning  and  laying  over  one  train  there  be- 
fore proceeding  on  to  Pompeii, — or  by  private  car- 
riage, at  very  nearly  the  same  cost  if  a  party  of  three 
or  four  are  to  make  it  togethei'.  The  theatre,  really 
an  "  amphitheatre,"  is  the  only  monument  enough 
dug  out  to  be  recognizable,  at  Herculaneum  ;  but  at 
Pompeii  there  are  very  many  curiosities,  enough  to 
occupy  hours  in  examination — among  which  perhaps 
the  most  interesting  will  be  found  the  House  of 
Diomed  (see  Bulwer's  "Last  Days  of  Pompeii"), 
the  Street  of  the  Tombs,  the  City  Gate  (with  the 
sentry-box  where  the  soldier  was  found  dead  on 
duty),  the  City  Walls,  the  Street  of  Abundance, 
Forum,  Amphitheatre,  etc.  An  excellent  local  map 
may  be  bought  on  the  spot,  with  the  streets  and 
houses  named,  and  it  will  be  found  indispensable. 
(A  single  word  of  warning :  the  propensity  to  carry 
off  relics  from  Pompeii  is  very  general,  and  visitors 
are  very  closely  watched — it  is  not  policy  to  make 


274  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

the  attempt :  better  huy  them — genuine  or  counter- 
feit— at  Xaples.) 

Other  charming  excursions  may  be  made,  if  time 
allows,  to  Castellamare  (very  short,  by  railway) ;  to 
Sorrento  (ten  miles  by  cai'riage  from  Castellamare) ; 
to  Capri  (island,  very  beautiful  and  famous  resort 
for  invalids)  by  boat  from  Sorrento ;  to  the  ruins  of 
Psestum  (by  railway  from  Xaples  to  Vietri  and 
thence  by  carriage — whole  day  for  this  alone,  if  at- 
tempted). 

From  Xaples,  take  steamer  of  the  French  Mes- 
sageries  Imperiales  (with  calls  at  Civita  Vecchia 
and  Leghorn  and  distant  view  of  Corsica  and  Elba) 
to 

Genoa,  on  the  gulf  of  the  same  name — almost  as 
well  known,  tliroughout  the  world,  as  "  Genoa  la 
Superba  "  and  the  "  City  of  Palaces."  Though  very 
many  of  the  houses  of  tlie  old  nobility  have  now 
been  turned  into  places  of  trade  and  common  resi- 
dence, yet  the  name  has  not  been  forfeited,  for  whole 
streets  arc  yet  lined  with  buildings  that  are  palaces 
indeed  and  still  retaining  their  aristocratic  inhabi- 
tants.    Of  these 

Palaces,  the  most  interesting  are  the  Palazzo 
Brignole  Sale  (or  Rossi),  with  many  fine  pictures ; 
the  Doria  Tarsi,  with  interesting  reminders  of  Co- 
lumbus ("  native  of  Genoa  ") ;  the  Doria  and  Balbi, 
both  with  pictui'es ;  the  Ducale,  once  the  residence 
of  the  Doges  or  Dukes  of  Genoa ;  the  Reale  and 
Pallavicini,  both  with  fine  pictures;  the  Spinola, 
TJniversita,  etc.     Of 

Churches^  the  most  interesting  is  the  Cathedral 


ly  ITALY.  275 

of  St..  Laurence,  erected  in  the  eleventh  century,  in 
alternate  layers  of  white  and  black  marble,  and  with 
a  very  fine  interior  and  many  relics  and  curiosities, 
among  which  by  far  the  most  striking  is  the  green 
glass  dish  said  to  have  contained  the  Paschal  Lamb 
at  the  Last  Supper ! 

There  is  interest,  also,  in  the  fine  fortifications 
surrounding  the  city ;  in  some  of  the  promenades — 
particularly  the  Acquasola,  an  esplanade  on  the  old 
fortifications,  with  view  over  the  gulf;  and  in  the 
Monument  to  Columbus,  an  elaborate  allegorical 
group,  in  the  Piazza  d'Acquaverde. 

From  Genoa  by  diligence  (vettuiina)  occupying 
two  days  and  spending  the  night  at  Oneglia — by 
the 

Corniche  lioacl,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  the 
world,  literally  overhanging  the  Gulf  of  Genoa, 
throughout  almost  all  the  route,  and  supplying  the 
loveliest  of  sea  and  shore  views, — to 

JVice,  on  the  Gulf  of  Genoa,  formerly  belonging 
to  Sardinia  but  now  to  France,  with  some  interest- 
ing antiquities,  much  beauty  in  location,  and  a  pecu- 
liarly soft  climate  making  it  the  paradise  of  invalids. 
Thence  by  rail  to 

Marseilles,  on  the  Gulf  of  Lyons — the  Paris  of 
Southern  France  as  Strasbourg  is  that  of  Eastern — 
one  of  the  oldest  cities  of  the  Mediterranean,  found- 
ed by  the  Phenicians  600  years  before  Christ.  It 
has  a  population  of  a  quarter  million,  and  a  harbor 
said  to  be  able  to  contain  1,200  vessels  ;  its  fortifica- 
tions, including  the  works  of  the  islands  Pomegue, 
Ratoueau  and  the  Chateau  d'lf  (the  latter  immortal- 
24 


276  SHORT-TEIP  GUIDE. 

ized  by  Dumas,  in  the  "  Count  of  Monte  Cristo ") 
are  very  formidable ;  its  Canabiere^  or  great  prome- 
nade, can  show  more  different  nations  in  a  cluster 
than  even  Constantinople  ;  and  it  is,  in  point  of  fact, 
the  oddest,  most  thriving,  dirtiest  half-oriental  old 
town  on  the  European  continent,  besides  having 
given  birth  to  that  tocsin  of  revolution,  the  "  Mar- 
seillaise." 

From  Marseilles,  either  with  or  without  the  run 
of  a  few  miles,  by  rail,  to 

Toulon,  the  great  naval  arsenal  of  France  in  the 
Mediterranean,  the  place  of  Napoleon's  early  exploit, 
and  the  depot  of  the  criminal  "  galleys," — if  to  Tou- 
lon, then  with  return  to  Marseilles,  and  thence  by 
rail  northward  to  Paris  and  the  French  or  English 
ports. 

Or,  if  intending  to  return  to  Switzerland  and  pur- 
sue any  of  the  Swiss  or  German  routes — then  by  rail 
from  Marseilles  to 

Lyoxs,  at  the  junction  of  the  Rhone  and  the  Saone 
— another  very  old  city,  now  of  some  200,000  inhabi- 
tants, and  principally  noted  as  the  most  extensive 
silk  manufactory  in  the  world.  It  has  splendid  quays 
along  the  rivers,  is  a  thriving  and  impoilant  city, 
and  will  be  specially  dear  to  every  spectator  (which 
means  everybody)  of  the  "  Lady  of  Lyons."  It  has 
some  Roman  antiquities ;  some  buildings  of  histori- 
cal importance  (particularly  the  Hotel  de  Ville, 
where  the  revolutionists,  after  the  siege  of  the  city, 
planned  their  horrible  atrocities,  during  the  Reign 
of  Terror) ;  a  Museum,  with  some  fine  pictui'es;  and 
an    out-look,   from  the   tower   on   the   Heights    of 


ly  ITALY.  277 

Fourvieres,  from  whicli  Mt.  Blanc,  one  hundred  miles 

distant,  can  easily  be  seen  in  clear  weather. 

From  Lyons  by  rail,  by  Amberienx  to  Geneva 

and  the  Swiss  and  German  routes, 

Or,  by  rail  to  Paris,  etc.,  from  Lyons, 

Or,  by  rail  westward  to  Orleans,  Tours,  etc.,  for 

southwestern  France,  and  the  entrance  into  Spain. 


XIX. 

SHOET  TEIPS  IN  SPAIN. 

The  most  convenient  way  of  entering  Spain,  from 
France,  is  from  Bayonne,  one  of  the  most  strongly- 
fortified  cities  in  France,  famous  for  having  given 
birth  to  tliat  deadly  instrument  of  warfare,  the  "  bay- 
onet," and  reached  by  railway  from  Paris  by  Orleans, 
Tours  (both  iBne  old  cities,  Avith  Cathedrals  and  much 
historical  interest),  Bordeaux  (on  the  Garonne,  the 
head  of  the  Southern  French  wine-trade,  Avith  beau- 
tiful quays  and  much  commercial  prosperity,  a  hand- 
some Cathedral,  some  Roman  remains,  a  Triumphal 
Arch,  etc., 'all  worth  notice). 

From  Bayonne,  by  rail,  to 

Biarritz^  within  a  few  years  made  lamous  by  its 
becoming  the  favorite  sea-side  resort  of  the  Emperor 
and  Empress  of  France,  who  have  a  villa  (the  "Villa 
Eugenie  ")  here. 

By  rail  from  Biarritz,  for  a  very  brief  ride  to  the 
Sjjanish  frontier-town  of 

Iriin^  where  the  division  between  the  tAvo  coun- 
tries is  crossed  and  change  of  trains  is  made  from 
the  French  Chemin  de  Fer  du  Midi  (French  Cen- 
tral Railway)  to  the  Ferro  Carril  del  N'orte  (North- 
ern Spanish).  Fi-om  Iran,  passing  at  the  edge  of 
the  Pyrenees,  the  tourist  Avill  be  principally  occu- 
pied with  going  through  tunnels  (of  which  there  are 


/JV  SPAU'.  279 

some  -fifty  before  reaching  jNIadrid),  and  in  noticing 
that  everybody  smokes,  incessantly,  besides  enjoying 
something  like  the  same  description  of  scenery,  in 
.crossings  at  great  elevation,  and  peepings  down  into 
awful  ravines,  while  going  up  the  Valley  of  the  Uru- 
mea  to  Tolosa, — that  has  been  enjoyed  in  riding  up 
the  Valley  of  the  Rhone  from  Culoz  to  Geneva.  By 
Miranda  (junction  with  the  Bilbao  railway) ;  after 
which  the  first  stop  of  any  importance  (which  should 
be  for  at  least  one  day)  is  made  at 

BtTEGOS,  one  of  the  finest  of  old  Spanish  cities, 
though  very  damp,  cold  and  windy — for  a  long  time 
the  capital  of  Spain,  scene  of  many  of  the  exploits 
and  the  "  Wedding  "  of  the  Cid  Campeador,  as  well 
as  of  the  tragedy  of  "  Count  Alarcos."  Burgos  lies 
on  the  side  of  a  hill,  beside  the  river  Arlanzon  ;  has 
a  handsome  Calle  Espolon  (main  street)  facing  the 
river;  a 

Cathedral,  commenced  in  the  thirteenth  century, 
built  in  the  most  elaborate  Gothic  "  renaissance," 
with  two  pointed  towers  at  the  west  front  and  one 
pinnacled  at  the  east,  bearing  the  reputation  of  being 
almost  equal,  in  both  grandeur  and  elaborate  archi- 
tecture, to  that  of  Strasbourg — while  within  there 
are  manj-  splendid  side-chapels,  handsome  monu- 
ments, the  old  "  Coffin  of  the  Cid,"  chained  up 
against  a  wall,  and  constantly  thronging  men  and 
women  who  show  the  dark  eyes  and  picturesque  cos- 
tumes of  Spain ;  several  other  handsome  churches  ; 
and  tlie  bones  of  the  Cid,  kept  in  a  walnut  urn  in 
the  chapel  of  the  Town  Hall. 

From  Burgos  by  rail  to 


280  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

Valladolid,  very  handsomely  situated  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  river  Pisuerga,  at  its  confluence  with  the 
Esqueva.  Formerly  another  of  the  capitals  of  Spain  ; 
and  seat  of  a  University  of  eminence,  which  still  re-, 
mains;  and  notable  as  having  been  the  death  place 
of  Columbus.  Its  principal  present  attraction  is  the 
Museum,  with  some  good  pictures  and  sculptures  ; 
and  it  has  also  the  old  Royal  Palace  (decayed)  and 
a  Cathedral  w^oilh  visiting.  From  Valladolid  by 
rail  to 

Madeid,  the  capital  of  Spain,  standing  in  the 
middle  of  a  plain  nearly  twenty-five  hundred  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea  (boasting  to  be  the  "  high- 
est capital  in  Eui'ope"),  with  a  population  approach- 
ing 300,000,  a  climate  which  requires  warm  wrap- 
ping up  for  nine  months  and  constant  fanning  for 
three  (French  mot  w^ith  reference  to  this  :  "  La  Ma- 
drid a  neuf  mois  d^hiver  et  trois  mois  d^enfer !'''' — 
literally,  "  nine  months  winter  and  three  hot  enough 
for  the  infernal  regions"),  a  painful  absence  of  shade, 
and  a  history  of  much  interest,  especially  in  the 
earlier  centuries,  before  Philip  II.,  when  it  had  not 
yet  become  the  exclusive  capital  of  Spain,  to  the 
disadvantage  of  the  half-dozen  former  capitals  of 
provinces — Toledo,  Cordova,  Seville,  Granada,  Bur- 
gos, etc. 

The  fashionable  promenade  and  drive  of  Madrid 
is 

The  Prado,  considered  among  the  finest,  as  it  is 
among  the  largest,  public-grounds  and  afternoon- 
drives,  in  Eurojje,  nearly  two  miles  long  and  thickly 
studded  with  elm-trees ;  and  the  centre  of  the  city 


IX  SPAIX.  281 

and  place  where  Madrid  life  of  all  sorts  may  best  be 
seen,  is  the 

Puerto  del  Sol,  or  Central  Square,  where  the  most 
infinite  variety  of  characters  and  costumes  may  be 
observed,  nearly  every  jirovince  having  its  repre- 
sentatives and  no  two  provinces  dressing  alike.  An 
early  visit,  of  course,  is  always  paid  to  the 

Royal  Palace,  an  immense  and  imposing  pile, 
built  by  Philip  V.,  covering  a  space  of  470  feet  in 
each  direction  by  one  hundred  feet  in  lieight,  and 
considered  one  of  the  most  magnificent  royal  resi- 
dences in  the  world.  Tlie  interior  is  said  to  be  es- 
pecially rich  in  statues  and  marbles,  and  in  the  gor- 
geousness  of  the  throne-room  ;  but  owing  to  the 
vandalism  of  some  of  the  visitors,  a  few  years  ago, 
no  admissions  are  now  granted.  A  fine  statue  of 
Philip  IV.  stands  in.  the  gardens  adjoining.  At  the 
southern  end  of  the  Palace  is  the 

Royal  Armory  (admission  on  any  day  by  pre- 
senting passports),  containing  probably  the  finest 
single  collection  of  old  armor,  Aveapons  and  warlike 
curiosities,  on  the  globe — among  the  most  notable, 
armor  worn  by  Charles  V.,  Philip  II.,  Francis  I.  (of 
France),  Christopher  Columbus,  Queen  Isabella  (at 
the  siege  of  Granada),  etc. ;  with  a  very  rich  collec- 
tion of  guns  and  other  weapons,  a  crowned  and  robed 
effigy  of  St.  Ferdinand,  etc.  The  Xaval  Museum, 
near,  has  also  many  notable  curiosities.  But  the 
greatest  of  all  attractions,  at  Madrid,  is  the 

Royal  Picture- Gallery,  containing  undoubtedly 
one  of  the  finest  as  Avell  as  most  extensive  collections 
in  the  world — the  only  collection   of  works  of  the 


282  SEORT-TEIP   GUIDE. 

» 

great  Spanish  painter  Yelasqnez,  in  point  of  fact, 
being  found  here,  as  well  as  the  "  Immaculate  Con- 
ception "  and  many  of  the  best  other  worts  of  Muri- 
llo,  and  hosts  of  those  of  Spagnoletto,  of  Rubens,  of 
Titian,  of  Vandyke,  of  Claude  Lorraine,  of  Raphael, 
Correggio,  and  all  the  group  of  great  masters,  de- 
manding days  to  give  them  even  reasonable  atten- 
tion. (Complete  catalogues  can  be  found  at  the 
doors,  and  admission  can  be  procured  every  day.) 
The 

Churches  of  Madrid  are  many  and  mean,  as  com- 
pared with  several  other  Continental  cities.  The 
most  interesting  is  the  Convent  of  Atocha,  with  its 
miracle-working  Virgin,  and  the  handsomest  that  of 
San  Francisco.     The 

Palaeio  del  Congreso  (Congress  Hall  of  Spain), 
Hotel  de  Ville  and  other  public  buildings,  are  also 
worth  a  visit. 

A  day  should  be  devoted  to  au  excursion,  by 
rail,  to 

The  Escorial,  church-palace-tomb  of  the  Spanish 
monarchs,  built  by  Philip  II.  in  fulfilment  of  a  vow, 
and  probably  the  largest  specimen  of  architectural 
bulk  on  earth,  after  the  Egyptian  pyramids.  It  is 
700  feet  long  by  564  wide;  massively  ugly  without 
and  massively-gorgeous  within  ;  while  the  royal  vault 
chamber,  under  the  high  altar,  where  all  the  kings 
are  buried,  in  marble  sarcophagi  with  names  in  gilt 
letters,  in  niches  in  the  deep  walls — may  well  vie 
with  any  other  attainable  spot  in  its  mixed  and  pain- 
ful lesson.  The  Sacrista  should  also  be  noted,  for  its 
fine  frescoes ;  the  Dome  should  be  ascended  (for  those 


IX  SPAiy.  .  283 

strong  of  leg)  to  obtain  the  fine  view  therefrom  ;  and 
many  other  objects  of  interest  will  be  found — among 
others  the  room  where  Philip  II.  died  in  torture, 
and  the  Casa  del  Principe,  a  perfect  toy-house,  with 
furniture  and  pictures,  built  for  Clmrles  IV.  when  in 
his  boyhood. 

A  Bull-Fight  may  be  witnessed  within  almost 
any  three  days  of  stay  in  Madrid,  in  the  Plaza  de 
Toros,  an  amphitheatre  in  the  outskirts — by  any  who 
are  desirous  of  feasting  themselves  with  a  little  ex- 
tra-brutality. But  it  is  pleasant  to  say  that  the  law^s 
of  Spain  do  not  make  it  obligatory  upon  the  travel- 
ler that  he  shall  do  so  before  leaving  the  capital ! 

From  Madrid  by  rail  (changing  trains  at  Al- 
cazar), and  by  Ciudad  Real,  with  perhaps  a  dash  of 
diligencia  (stage-coach)  for  a  portion  of  the  route, 
as  the  finishing  and  running  of  Spanish  railways  is 
always  a  little  problematical — to 

Cordova,  on  the  Guadalquivir,  once  the  capital 
of  the  Moors  in  Spain,  and  where  the  celebrated 
"  Cordova  leather "  used  to  be  manufactured,  but 
now  in  decay  and  tumble-down,  Avith  only  a  few 
leading  curiosities  remaining,  in  the  Great  Mosque 
with  its  "  Moorish  battlements  and  Catholic  dome  " 
and  its  "  Court  of  Oranges  "  ;  the  Bishop's  Palace, 
also  in  a  state  of  decay ;  the  ruins  of  the  Palace 
of  the  Moorish  Kings,  etc. 

From  Cordova  by  rail  to 

Seville,  also  on  the  Guadalquivir,  famous  for  its 
oranges,  its  picturesquely-dirty  people  (gipsies  in- 
cluded— from  whom  Murillo  was  said  to  have  drawn 
many  of  his  models), — for  the 


284  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

GiraJda,  splendid  square  Moorish  tower,  of  350 
feet  in  height,  and  one  of  the  most  picturesque  of  the 
works  of  that  race,  remaining ;  the 

Cathedral,  with  its  massive  Gothic  architecture, 
its  "  Court  of  Oranges,"  too,  its  magnificent  stained- 
glass  windows  and  many  fine  pictures,  with  some  of 
Murillo's  master-works  among  others  ;  the 

Museo,  where  the  wealth  of  pictures  by  Murillo 
(native  of  Seville)  -is  to  be  seen ;  the 

Alcazar,  ^SLTt  of  an  old  Moorish  palace,  now  re 
built ;  and  the  Casa  de  Pilato,  said  to  be  an  exact 
imitation  of  Pontius  Pilate's  house  at  Jerusalem. 

From  Seville  by  rail,  across  the  beautiful  wine- 
producing  districts  of  Andalusia,  to 

Cadiz,  on  the  Bay  of  Cadiz,  the  great  seaport  of 
southwestern  Spain,  its  commercial  interest  oddly 
mingled  with  the  reputation  of  possessing  the  most 
beautiful  women  in  Spain — the  "  dark-eyed  girls  of 
Cadiz,"  sung  by  Byron,  Moore,  Hans  Christian  An- 
derssen,  and  others.  It  has  two  fine  promenades — 
on  the  Alameda,  and  on  the  fortifications  near  the 
port,  where  the  sea-view  is  especially  beautiful  at 
evening  and  the  crowd  of  loungers  very  pictur- 
esque. 

Cadiz  (wonderful  relief!)  .happens  to  have  no  old 
Cathedrals,  Museums  or  ruins,  worth  the  visiting,  so 
that  it  forms  the  pleasantest  of  places  for  a  little 
lounging  and  sea-coast  life,  those  feminine  people 
with  the  dark  eyes,  long  lashes  and  passionate  tem- 
peraments being  kept  duly  in  view  ! 

From  Cadiz  by  steamer,  through  the  straits  of 
Gibraltar,  with  views  of  the  wonderful  natural  and 


I^¥  SPAIX.  285 

artificial  fortification  of  Gibraltar,  and  also  of  Tan- 
gier, on  the  Barbary  coast,  opposite — to 

MA.LAGA,  famous  for  its  wine  and  raisin,  lemon 
and  orange  export-trade,  and  one  of  the  most  impor- 
tant commercial  cities  of  Spain,  It  has  a  handsome 
modern  Cathedral,  a  pleasant  Alameda  for  prome- 
nading, and  the  loveliest  of  climates  for  pulmonary 
invalids ;  and  like  Cadiz,  it  offers  no  bother  of  art  or 
antiquity,  except  the  ruins  of  the  walls  built  by  its 
Carthaginian  founders. 

From  Malaga  by  diligence,  by  Loja  (about  fifteen 
hours),  to 

Geanada,  the  old  Moorish  capital,  on  the  Darro, 
lying  on  a  beautiful  plain  some  2,000  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea,  and  at  the  base  of  the  Sierra  Ne- 
vada Mountains.  It  is  very  oriental  of  aspect,  es- 
pecially from  the  minarets  wliich  yet  remain  from 
the  Moorish  days ;  and  its  climate  vies  with  that  of 
Malaga  for  temperature  and  healthiness.  But  of 
course  the  visit  to  Granada  is  principally  paid,  by 
travellers  from  all  parts  of  the  world,  and  yet  more 
by  Americans,  familiar  with  Washington  Irving's 
"Alhambra"  and  Prescott's  "Ferdinand  and  Isa- 
bella " — to  see 

T/ie  Alhambra  (guide  or  valei  de  place  necessa- 
ry), the  old  palace  of  the  Moorish  kings,  and  by  far 
the  finest  Saracenic  remain  in  Europe.  All  the 
features  of  this  "  wonder  in  the  earth"  will  be  shown 
by  guide  and  local  guide-book,  and  any  attemjjted 
enumeration  of  them,  here,  would  be  idle.  From 
approaching  the  entrance,  where  stands  the  unfin- 
ished palace  of  Charles  V.,  the  front  split  by  an 


286  SEOBT-TEIP  GUIDE. 

earthquake  and  the  work  stopped  in  consequence — 
from  the  Alberca,  or  Fish-Pond  (Bathing-room  of  the 
Sultanas),  through  the  Repose-room,  the  Bath-rooms 
of  the  King  and  Princes,  the  Saloon  of  La  Barca,  the 
Saloon  of  the  Two  Sisters,  the  Hall  of  the  Ambassa- 
dors, the  Saloon  of  the  Abencerrages,  the  great  Court 
of  the  Lions — through  all  these,  and  others,  and 
everywhere,  the  airy  lightness  of  Oriental  work  in 
marble,  the  effect  of  mingled  color,  the  adaptation 
of  natural  forms  (as  flowers,  snow-wreaths,  leaves, 
etc.)  to  the  purposes  of  art,  form  a  combination  of 
beauty  and  grandeur  to  which  only  the  one  word  can 
be  applied — bewildering.  Hours  must  be  spent  in 
wandering  through  the  Alhambra  and  remembering 
the  power,  crimes,  virtues  and  sorrows  of  the  race 
who  built  it ;  but  days  would  be  better  adapted  to 
that  end. 

Granada  has  yet  other  attractions,  in  the 

Cathedral,  a  massive  structure,  of  the  sixteenth 
century,  with  some  statues  and  pictures  within ; 
the 

Genoralife,  another  fine  Moorish  remain,  opposite 
the  Alhambra  and  across  the  deep  ravine  beside  it — 
now  belonging  to  a  Genoese  nobleman,  who  has 
never  even  taken  the  trouble  to  visit  it ;  the  Torre 
de  la  Vela,  near  the  Alhambra,  commanding  a  fine 
view  of  the  architectural  wonders  ;  the  Gold-Wash- 
ings in  the  Darro,  where  the  ladies  go  on  St.  John's 
Eve  to  wash  their  faces  and  derive  good  complexions 
for  the  year ;  the  Carthusian  Convent  (a  mile  from 
the  town),  with  some  good  marbles;  etc.,  etc. 

From  Granada,  return  to  Malaga  by  diligence. 


m  SPAIX.  287 

or  if-  preferred,  on  horseback  in   somewhat  longer 

time,  by  Albana. 

-     From  Malaga,  steamer  to  Marseilles  for  return 

northward. 

25 


XX. 

HINTS  FOR  A  SHOET  KOUTE  IX  THE  EAST 

Strictly  speaking,  the  short-trip  tourist  does  not 
make  any  run  to  what  is  called  "  the  East : "  if  he 
does,  he  is  in  danger  of  moulting  his  title  in  the  very 
act,  and  becoming  the  "  long-trip  "  traveller — just  as 
the  Frenchman's  little  dog,  all  the  value  of  which 
consisted  in  his  remaining  little,  would  insist  upon 
growing  to  a  big  dog,  and  thus  spoiled  himself.  It 
may  be,  however,  that  some  of  those  who  begin  with 
the  intention  of  only  making  short  trips  in  Europe, 
may  change  their  intention  or  find  themselves  dif- 
lerently  circumstanced  from  what  they  had  sup- 
posed ;  and  it  is  especially  for  their  benefit  that  the 
following  mere  hints  and  outlines  for  seeing  the  most 
interesting  portion  of  the  Orient  in  economic  connec- 
tion (time  and  money,  both),  is  here  inserted. 

The  most  convenient  point,  generally,  at  which 
the  routes  before  marked  out  can  be  departed  from, 
is  to  be  found  at  Venice.  From  that  Italian  city,  by 
rail  to 

Trieste,  the  most  important  commercial  town  of 
Austria,  and  the  successor  of  Venice  to  the  great 
trade  of  all  that  portion  of  the  Mediterranean — ^lying 
at  the  head  (northeast)  of  the  Adriatic  Sea.  Its 
principal  interest  lies  in  its  harbor,  where  a  system 
of  canals  (devised  principally  by  the  Empress  Maria 


AV  GREECE.  289 

Theresa)  supplies  tlie  want  of  natural  advantages.  It 
has,  however,  two  interesting  public  squares,  the 
Piazza  Grande  and  Borsenplatz;  a  Catliedral  (Byzan- 
tine) of  the  fourth  century ;  and  what  is  called  the 
Piazzetta  (little  place)  de  Ricardo,  where  Richard 
Coeur  de  Lion  is  alleged  to  have  been  confined  by 
ttie  Duke  of  Austria  on  his  retui-n  from  the  Crusades, 
leading  to  the  charming  poetical  story  of  his  discov- 
ery by  the  minstrel  Blondel. 

At  Trieste  is  to  be  taken  one  of  the  stearaei's  of 
the  Austrian  Lloyds  (a  corporation  Avhich  vies  with 
the  French  Messageries  Lnperiales  and  the  English 
Peninsular  and  Oriental  Company,  in  lines  running 
everywhere)  through  the  Grecian  Archipelago,  to 

The  JPiratfs,  port  of  Athens,  from  which  is 
reached,  four  miles  distant, 

Atheks,  capital  of  Greece,  and  historically  as 
"well  as  artistically  one  of  the  most  interesting  cities 
on  the  globe.  Its  history  is  too  well  known,  as 
connected  with  science,  the  arts  and  letters,  to  need 
even  the  briefest  reference ;  and  to  those  who  do 
need  such  reminder,  something  more  than  the  few 
words  of  the  guide-book  would  be  found  necessary. 
Among  the  most  notable  of  the  great  architectural 
remains  which  make  Athens  the  w^onder  of  the  world, 
are  the  ruined  Parthenon,  or  Temple  of  Minerva ; 
the  Acropolis  ;  Mars  IJill  (or  the  Areopagus),  where 
St.  Paul  preached  to  the  "  too  superstitious"  men  of 
Athens  ;  the  Tower  of  the  Winds  ;  the  Arch  of  Ha- 
drian ;  the  Temple  of  Jupiter  Olympus  ;  etc.  ;  Avhile 
no  one  sojourning  any  time  at  Athens,  should  fail  to 
visit  the  Battle-field  of  Marathon,  in  the  immediate 


290  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

neighborhood.  (Excellent  local  guide-books,  io 
English,  can  be  purchased  at  Athens,  and  for  any 
stay  they  will  be  found  indispensable.) 

From  Athens,  by  steamer,  through  the  loveliest 
and  most  noted  of  the  islands  of  the  Archipelago, — 
by  Rhodes,  famous  as  the  old  seat  of  the  Knights  of 
St.  John  of  Jerusalem  ;  by  Patraos,  where  St.  John 
wrote  the  Revelation,  while  in  Roman  banishment ; 
by  Samos,  noted  in  heathen  mythology  as  the  birth- 
place of  Juno,  and  also  as  the  birth-place  of  the 
coveted  "  Samian  wine  "  that  Byron  ordered  '■  dashed 
down,"  in  his  "  Isles  of  Greece ; "  by  Scio,  the  largest 
island  of  the  Levant,  and  one  of  the  loveliest ;  by 
Mytilene,  the  ancient  Lesbos,  where  "  Sappho  the 
Lesbian  "  had  her  birth  and  home ;  by  Tenedos,  etc., 
through  the  narrow  passage  of  the  Dardanelles,  into 
and  through  the  Sea  of  Marmora,  by  Abydos  (scene  of 
Bp-on's  well-known  poem,  the  "  Bride  of  Abydos"),  to 

CoxsTANTixoPLE,  ou  the  Europcau  or  western 
side  of  the  Bosphorus  (Turkey  in  Europe),  the  capi- 
tal of  the  Turkish  Empire,  with  nearly  or  quite  a 
million  of  inhabitants,  and  bearing  the  same  relation 
to  the  East  that  is  borne  by  Rome  to  Western 
Europe.  It  was  originally  "Byzantium,"  from  its 
Greek  founder  Byzas ;  but  had  little  importance  until 
refounded  by  the  Emperor  Constantine,  and  made 
the  capital  of  the  Eastern  Empire,  in  the  fourth  cen- 
tury. It  has  filled  quite  as  large  a  space  in  history, 
as  even  Rome — has  -been  fought  over,  around  and 
about,  nearly  as  much,  even  in  comparison  to  time, 
as  the  City  of  ]\[exico — has  been  repeatedly  besieged, 
and  twice  captured:  once  in   1204,  by  the  Second 


ly  TURKEY.  291 

Crusaders,  and  again  in  1458  by  the  Turks,  since 
which  time  it  has  been  in  Molmmraedan  j:)Ossession 
and  supplied  the  Turkish  cai)ital. 

Constantinople  is  considered  to  be  one  of  the 
loveliest  cities,  in  situation,  on  the  globe,  the  Golden 
Horn  (curved  brancli  of  the  Bosphorus),  foi'ming  a 
magnificent  harbor,  arid  the  shaded  suburbs  forming 
a  fine  background  to  the  tall  spires  (minarets)  of  the 
many  mosques  which  have  i-cplaced  tlie  Christian 
churches.  Within,  howevei',  the  city  is  dirty,  ill- 
laid-out  and  badly-built,  Tlie  old  walls  still  exist, 
with  seven  of  the  original  forty-three  gates;  and  the 
suburbs  of  Pera,  Galata  and  Tophana  liave  a  certain 
beauty,  even  near — especially  the  two  former,  where 
most  foreignei's  reside. 

The  leading  objects  of  interest  awe  the  Bazaars,, 
where  Oriental  trade  may  be  seen  in  all  its  oddity 
and  shiftlessness ;  the  Sultan's  Seraglio  (outside) ; 
the  Mosques  of  St.  Sophia  (visited  by  permission  of 
the  Sultan,  obtained  through  the  Embassy  of  the 
visitor's  nation),  of  Solyman  the  Magnificent,  Sultan 
Achmet  and  Mohammed  the  Second;  the  Ceme- 
teries, by  far  the  handsomest  things  connected  with 
the  city,  etc. 

From  Constantinople,  by  steamer,  to 

Smykjta,  in  Asiatic  Turkey,  the  most  im])ortant 
commercial  city  in  Asia  Minor,  where,  for  the  first 
time,  the  Orient  may  be  seen  in  its  full  glory — the 
city  squalid,  the  society  and  trading -community 
mixed  of  all  Eastern  nations,  and  figs  so  plenty 
(Smyrna  being  the  great  depot  of  this  fruit)  that 
they  become  almost  a  "  drug  in  the  market." 


292  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

From  Smyrna,  by  steamer,  to 

JBeirut  (or  Beyrout),  in  Syria,  a  very  old  town  of 
no  particular  present  consequence,  except  as  a  port, 
though  it  has  historical  recollection  as  the  Greek 
Berytus,  a  noted  seat  of  learning,  and  also  in  con- 
nection with  the  Crusades. 

At  Beirut  horses  and  guides  will  be  procured 
across  the  Syrian  plains,  two  days,  to  the  mighty 
and  magnificent 

Ruins  of  Baalbec,  by  far  the  most  ponderous  and 
among  the  most  interesting  of  the  early  architectural 
remains  of  the  East,  dwarfing  all  others  in  the 
weight  of  the  single  stones  and  the  extent  of  labor 
(some  of  the  wall-stones  measure  each  80  feet  long, 
15  wide  and  13  deep!)  thrown  together  in  a  limited 
space,  in  the  Temple  of  the  Sun,  that  of  Jupiter, 
and  the  Circular  Temple.  From  Baalbec  on,  by  the 
same  mode  of  travel,  to 

Damascus,  called  the  oldest  city  in  the  world, 
and  founded  by  Uz,  the  grandson  of  Noah,  some 
4,000  or  4,500  years  ago ! — alternately  the  Syrian 
capital  of  the  Babylonians,  the  Persians,  the  Ro- 
mans, the  Saracens  (Arabic  Mohammedans)  and  now 
of  the  Turks.  It  is  especially  noted  for  its  flat- 
roofed  houses  (for  sleeping  upon),  mean  without  but 
handsome  within — for  its  beautiful  gardens — for  its 
bazaars — and  as  having  for  centuries  produced  the 
peculiarly-tempered  swords  known  as  the  "  Damas- 
cus blades,"  as  well  as  the  artistic  work  in  metal- 
polishing  known  as  "  damascening."  It  has,  of 
course,  a  wonderful  history,  Pagan,  Mohammedan 
(through   Mohammed)  and   Christian   (through   St. 


IX  PALESTIXE.  29S 

Paul) ;  and  it  has  an  Oriental  sleepy  jungniiiccuce 
peculiar  to  its  air.  There  are  several  mosques,  with 
the  Great  Mosque  principal  and  said  to  contain  the 
head  of  John  the  Baptist  in  a  g-oM  casket ;  and 
there  is  an  old  Castle  of  immense  size,  with  moat, 
etc.,  but  ruined  and  dismantled  witliin. 

From  Damascus,  with  horses  and  guides,  as  be- 
fore, by  Banias  (Cesarea  Philippi),  Safed,  Cai)ernaum, 
Tiberias,  N'azareth  (birthplace  of  the  Saviour),  Jenin, 
Samaria  and  Xablous  (the  ancient  Shecliem),  to 

Jerusalem,  the  "Holy  City,"  as  Rome  has  been 
called  the  "Eternal" — with  the  places  lield  "  Holy" 
by  all  Christians — first  among  them  the  Church  of 
the  Holy  Sepulchre,  on  Mt.  Calvary,  covering  the 
spot  where  the  body  of  the  Saviour  was  laid,  as  also 
(as  alleged)  that  where  He  was  crucified  ;  the  Gar- 
den of  Gethsemane,  the  Mount  of  Olives,  the  site  of 
Solomon's  Temple,  and  so  many  other  spots  and 
relics  connected  with  sacred  history,  that  a  reminder 
of  them  would  be  only  an  -insult.  That  task  may 
well  be  left,  in  detail,  to  the  guides,  who  will  bo 
found  quite  sufficiently  garrulous,  in  a  dozen  lan- 
guages. Outside  of  and  near  the  city  will  of  course 
be  visited  the  Valley  of  Jehoshaphat,  the.  town  of 
Bethany,  etc.;  and  a  more  extended  excursion,  occu- 
pying three  days,  will  be  made  to  the  Dead  Sea  and 
the  Jordan  where  it  enters  that  remarkable  and 
thankless  lake. 

From  Jerusalem  to  the  coast,  the  way  will  still 
be  pursued  with  guides  and  horses,  two  days'  travel 
(stopping  the  single  night  at  the  Convent  at  Ram- 
leh),  to 


294  SHOET-TRIP   GUIDE. 

Jaffa,  on  the  coast  of  Syria  (eastern  end  of  tlie 
Mediterranean  Sea).  Jaffa  has  a  bad  harbor,  diffi- 
cult of  landing  in  rough  weather;  and  it  has  no 
other  special  interest  to  travellers  than  the  still-re- 
maining (shown)  "House  of  Simon  the  Tanner," 
■where  St.  Peter  had  his  vision,  instructing  him  as  to 
what  was  "  uncleanness." 

At  Jaffa,  steamer  will  be  taken  to 

Alexaxdeia,  in  Egypt — at  the  western  mouth 
of  the  Xile — the  seaport  and  commercial  city  of  that 
nation — founded,  as  the  name  implies,  by  Alexander 
the  Great,  and  splendidly  situated  between  the  mouth 
and  Lake  Mareotis,  while  a  canal  connects  it  with 
the  Rosetta  mouth.  It  has  two  ports — the  old  Ixir- 
bor,  on  the  west,  and  the  new,  on  the  east, — and 
owes  its  principal  modern  importance  to  the  fact  of 
being  the  landing-place  of  all  the  many  great  lines 
of  steamers  on  the  routes  to  India  and  to  and  from 
the  different  ports  of  the  Mediterranean.  Of  course 
it  has  a  world  of  antique  history,  as  the  name  of  its 
founder  recalls,  as  also  the  fact  that  it  possessed  the 
celebrated  Alexandrian  Library,  burned  by  an  igno- 
rant tyrant.  It  has  few  curiosities,  but  some  of  the 
highest  interest,  including  the  celebrated  Pompey's 
Pillar,  at  the  south  side,  near  the  walls — erected  in 
honor  of  the  Emperor  Diocletian,  a.  d.  296;  the 
two  Cleopatra's  Needles,  one  standing  and  one  fallen 
and  paitially  covered,  at  the  east  side,  near  the  sea 
—  alleged  to  have  been  erected  in  1495  e.  c,  and  so 
to  be  of  the  ripe  age  of  over  3,360  years  ;  the  Pacha's 
Palace ;  Catacombs,  etc.  A  very  mixed  society  Avill 
be  found  at  Alexandria,  but  scarcely  more  oriental 


IX  EGYPT.  295 

tban-  at  Marseilles,  and  the  city  may  be  said  to  be 
more  than  half  European. 

From  Alexandria  by  rail,  some  130  miles  up  the 
Nile,  to 

Caieo,  the  chief  city  and  capital  of  Egypt,  with 
nearly  half  a  million  of  inhabitants  and  all  the  Ori- 
ental characteristics  exaggerated — no  place  on  earth 
showing  a  greater  variety  in  the  costume  of  citizens, 
and  none  more  oddity  in  narrow  and  dirty  streets, 
odd  mosques,  bazaars,  and  everything  ultra-Mussul- 
manish.  Days  may  be  spent  in  studying  it — the 
Constantinople  of  Africa. 

One  of  the  first  visits,  at  Cairo,  should  be  paid  to 
the  Citadel,  to  catch  the  magniticent  view  of  the 
Nile,  the  Pyramids,  the  four  hundred  mosques  of  the 
city,  the  distant  desert,  etc.  Some  of  the  splendid 
Mosques  will  then  be  visited — especially  the  new 
one  of  Mehemet  Ali,  the  old  ones  of  Tayluon,  Sultan 
Hassan,  Sultan  Kaloon ;  some  of  the  Palaces — among 
others  those  of  Mehemet  Ali  and  Ibraliim  Pacha  ; 
Joseph's  Well,  supposed  to  have  been  hewn  in  the 
rock  under  the  direction  of  the  son  of  Jacob  when 
ruling  in  Egypt ;  some  of  the  fine  Gardens  surround- 
ing the  walls,  etc. 

The  most  indispensable  of  excursions  from  Cairo 
is  that  to  the  Pyramids,  about  twelve  miles  either 
way — made  on  donkey-back,  with  guides.  Too  much 
observation  and  admiration  cannot  Avell  be  bestowed 
upon  the  master  pile  of  Cheops,  with  its  two  lesser 
companions  and  six  very  much  smaller;  but  there 
is  no  law  in  Egypt  to  compel  the  ascent  of  any  one 
of  them,  and  some  sensible  people  avoid  that  exer- 


296  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

cise  and  its  fatigue  and  extortion.  Xear  the  Pyra- 
mids is  the  wonderful  Sphynx ;  and  not  far  distant, 
on  the  Xile  Lank,  are  the  few  scattered  ruins  that 
remain  of  the  once  mighty  city  of  Memphis — all 
easily  embraced  in  the  one  day's  excursion. 

Of  course  the  Nile  will  receive  due  attention,  as 
a  river  and  a  terrestriaL shower.  It  is  from  Cairo  that 
all  the  boating  parties  start,  up  the  river ;  but  the 
American  short-trip  traveller  may  well  content  him- 
self with  a  brief  sail  or  row,  and  leave  the  ascent  to 
sleepier  or  more  leisurely  people. 

Return  from  Cairo  to  Alexandria ;  then  take  one 
of  the  steamers  of  the  English  Peninsular  and  Ori- 
ental Company,  down  the  Mediterranean,  to 

Malta,  the  celebrated  IVlediterranean  island  of 
Great  Britain,  lying  about  fifty  miles  southward  of 
Sicily — with  a  most  interesting  history,  especially  in 
connection  with  the  Knights,  driven  away  from  the 
Crusades,  who  so  long  held  it  against  the  Turks.  Its 
port,  Valetta,  has  a  fine  harbor,  is  splendidly  forti- 
fied, and  shows  many  remains  of  the  old  warlike 
times ;  while  in  the  Palace  of  the  Grand  Master  may 
be  found  a  splendid  collection  of  old  arms  and  tro- 
phies, in  the  Armoiy,  with  many  fine  pictures  by 
Maltese  jjainters ;  and  these  and  the  Church  of  St. 
John,  the  Grotto  of  St.  Paul  (near  the  town)  the 
Catacombs  of  St.  Paul,  etc.,  would  be  certain  to  till 
more  time  than  the  hurried  traveller  is  likely  to  have 
at  command. 

From  Malta  to  Marseilles,  by  steamer — ending 
the  route,  of  which  it  may  be  said,  in  addition,  that 
it  may  be  very  hurriedly  made,  from  Trieste  to  Mar- 


IX  TEE  EAST.  29V 

seilles,  in  six  to  seven  weeks,  but  should  properly 
require  ten  to  thirteen. 

Or,  as  may  be  easily  discovered  from  the  number 
of  steamers  and  diiferent  lines,  trips  may  be  arranged 
to  embrace  one  or  another  part  of  it — with  or  with- 
out Constantinople — with  or  Avithout  Jerusalem — 
with  or  without  Alexandria  and  Egypt,  etc.,  if  some- 
thing of  the  East  is  specially  desired  and  yet  the 
pressure  on  time  or  means  is  too  great  to  admit  of 
all 


XXI. 

A  FEW  USEFUL  PHEASES  IN  FKENCH  AND  GEEMAN. 

The  promise  was  made,  in  one  of  the  early  pa- 
pers of  this  volume,  that  a  few  words  and  phrases 
should  be  given,  at  the  close,  calculated  to  render 
an  actual  assistance  in  countries  of  Eui'ope  where 
only  French  or  German  should  happen  to  be  met. 
That  promise  is  now  to  be  kept,  with  the  understand- 
ing recalled  that  no  attempt  is  intended  at  supplying 
either  a  "conversation-book"  or  a  glossary — that 
only  those  few  words  and  phrases  are  set  down,  in 
both  French  and  German,  with  a  decent  understand- 
ing of  which  experience  has  proved  that  travel  and 
sight-seeing  can  be  pretty  well  managed  in  the  coun- 
tries where  those  tongues  are  in  use,  while  without 
them,  to  say  the  least,  one  gets  along  badly  enough 
if  at  all.  It  is  not  to  be  expected  that  anything 
here,  can  render  much  assistance  in  understanding 
replies  made :  that  advantage  can  only  be  secured 
by  understanding  the  languages,  or  acquii-ed  through 
continued  conversations :  to  be  able  to  ask  for  things 
wanted,  and  direct  things  necessary  to  be  done,  is 
the  only  rational  immediate  hope  of  the  mere  Eng- 
lish speaker,  even  assisted  by  these  following  pages 
which  seem  so  incomplete  and  have  yet  cost  such 
extended  laboi*. 


A  FUW  USEFUL  PHRASES.  299 


FRENCH. 


A   FEW   SISIPLE    RULES    WORTU    REMEMBERUiTG. 

1st.  The  French  i  generally  Bounds  like  the  English  e.  ?• 

2d.    The  French  e  generally  sounds  like  the  English  a. 

4th.  The  French  II  generally  sounds  like  the  English  y. 

Bth.  The  French  en  generally  manages  to  become  a  cross  between  on 
and  ong. 

7th.  The  concluding  consonant  of  a  word,  in  French,  is  ruthlessly  sac- 
rificed when  the  next  word  commences  with  a  consonant;  but  when  that 
next  word  commences  -with  a  vowel,  the  concluding  consonant  of  the  pre- 
vious word  is  not  sacrificed  but  carried  over  and  stuck  fast  to  the  other. 

8th.  Le  (the)  is  always  masculine  ;  la  is  always  feminine,  and  the  sex 
of  the  words  they  adjoin  is  understood  by  them.  Les,  the  plural,  however, 
is  both  masculine  and  feminine.  The  first  is  pronounced  as  nearly  as  pos- 
ble  like  the  English  luh,  the  second  like  lah,  and  the  third  lay. 

9th.  De  (ol),  du  (of  the),  and  des  (of,  or  of  the,  plural),  are  sounded 
dull,  dm,  day. 

6th.  Eur,  which  in  English  sounds  as  ure,  in  French  leaves  out  the  u 
in  sound  and  is  simply  er. 

3d.  E  with  an  acute  accent  (e)  is  always  pronounced  like  a  long,  as  in 
"co<«,"  where  the  pronunciation  is  kotay ;  e  with  a  grave  accent  {e)  is 
always  pronounced  like  the  English  e  in  "met,"  as  in  ^^ caractere,''''  pro- 
nounced '■'■  karacMer,''^  with  accent  on  the  last  syllable  :  while  e  with  the 
broad  accent  («)  is  sounded  long  and  broadly,  with  a  cross  between  Eng- 
lish e  and  a,  as  in  "  tele,''''  pronounced  tmjt  (nearly). 

10th.  The  French  idiom,  or  arrangement  of  sentences,  is  generally  the 
exact  reverse  of  the  English ;  so  that  when  any  doubt  exists  as  to  which 
of  two  adjoining  words  to  place  first,  it  is  generajly  nearest  safe  to  remem- 
ber what  the  English  would  be,  and  reverse  it. 

11th.  The  French  noun  is  not  perfect,  as  the  English  is,  without  the 
article  before  it:  they  cannot  say  Ameriqtce  (America),  but  VAmerique 
(literally  the  America). 

12th.  Generally,  the  habit  of  the  French  language  does  not  permit  words 
to  be  implied,  like  the  English :  they  must  be  expressed. 

13th.  Ee,  concluding  a  French  word,  is  so  lightly  used  that  it  is  little 
more  than  a  roll  of  the  r,  and  is  sometimes  scarcely  heard  at  all,  as  in 
Louvre,  quatre,  sounded  Lowvrrr,  quatrrr. 

14th.  The  French  qu  generally  sounds  as  k,  as  in  qui  (who),  pro- 
uoanced  ke. 

15th.  The  more  that  words  are  chopped  up,  mangled,  swallowed,  and 
ejected  through  the  nose  (like  tobacco-smoke  by  old  smokers),  the  more 
possibility  will  exist  of  their  being  understood  by  a  Frenchman. 
9fi 


300 


SnOBT-TBIP  GUIDE. 


MONTHS  OF  THE  TEAK  AND  DAYS  OF  THE  WEEK. 


ENGUSH. 

FBENCH. 

PKONOUXCED. 

January, 

Janvier, 

Jhonvay. 

February, 

Fevrier, 

Fevray. 

March, 

Mars, 

Marrs. 

April, 

Avril, 

Ahvreel. 

May, 

Mai, 

Myee. 

June, 

Jidn, 

Jhuan. 

July, 

JuiUet, 

Jhuelay. 

August, 

Aout, 

Ah-oo. 

September, 

Septembre, 

Septombr. 

October, 

Octobre, 

Octobr. 

November, 

Noxembre, 

Novombr. 

December, 

Decembre, 

Daysombr. 

Monday, 

Lundi, 

Loondee. 

Tuesday, 

Mardi, 

Mardee. 

Wednesday, 

Mercredi, 

Mayrcraydee. 

Thursday, 

Jeudi, 

Jhudee. 

Friday,  . 

Vendredi, 

Vondraydee. 

Saturday, 

Samedi, 

Somdee. 

Sunday, 

Dimanche, 

Deemonehee. 

NUMEEALS    AND 

OEDINAT.S. 

One, 

Vn, 

con. 

Two, 

Deux, 

dea. 

Three, 

Trois, 

trwa. 

Four, 

Quatre, 

Kawtr. 

Five, 

CinqueoTcinq, 

sankg. 

Six, 

Six, 

ziss. 

Seven, 

Sept, 

Bet. 

Eight, 

HuU, 

wheet. 

Nine, 

Naif,     ■ 

noof. 

Ten, 

Dix, 

diss. 

Eleven, 

Ome, 

onz. 

Twelve, 

Bouze, 

dooz. 

Thirteen, 

Treize, 

trayz. 

Fourteen, 

Quatorze, 

kahtorz. 

Fifteen, 

Quime, 

kauz. 

Sixteen, 

Seize, 

eajz. 

Seventeen, 

Dixsept, 

diss- set. 

Eighteen, 

Dix-hvit, 

diss-wheet. 

Nineteen, 

Dix-nevf, 

diss-noof. 

Twenty, 

Tingt, 

vant. 

Thirty, 

TrenU, 

trout. 

A   FEW  USEFUL  PHRASES. 


301 


ENGLISH. 

FRENCU. 

rr.ONUNCIATION. 

Forty, 

Quarante, 

karout. 

Fifty, 

Cinquante, 

Banli.ant. 

Sixty, 

Soixante, 

swassant. 

Seventy, 

Soixante-dix, 

swassant-diss. 

Eighty, 

Qtiatre-vingt, 

kawt-vant. 

Ninety, 

Quatre-vingt-dix, 

kawt-vaut-diss. 

One  Hundred, 

Cent, 

sawnt. 

One  Thousand, 

Un  Mille, 

con  meel. 

One  Million, 

Vh  Milton, 

oon  meelyong. 

First, 

Premier  (e,  fern.), 

prem-yare. 

Second, 

Second  {e,  fem.), 

se-koud. 

do., 

Deuxieme, 

dyoozhee-em. 

Third, 

Troisihne, 

trwazceem. 

Fourth, 

Quatneme, 

kawtree-em. 

Fifth, 

Cinquieme, 

sawnkee-em. 

Sixth, 

Sixieme, 

zissee-em. 

Seventh, 

Septieme, 

settee-em. 

Eighth, 

Huitihne, 

wheetee-em. 

Ninth, 

Nemieme, 

noovee-em. 

Tenth, 

Bixilme, 

dizzec-em. 

Eleventh, 

Omihne, 

onzce-em. 

Twelfth, 

Bouzieme, 

dooze-em. 

Thirteenth, 

Treizieme, 

treze-em. 

Fourteenth, 

Quatorzi^me, 

katorzee-em. 

Fifteenth, 

Quinzieme, 

kanzee-em. 

Sixteenth, 

Seizeieme, 

8eezee-em. 

Seventeenth, 

Dix-septieme, 

dissitce-em. 

Eighteenth, 

Dix-huitilme, 

disswheete-em. 

Nineteenth, 

Dix-neuvihne, 

dissuovce-em. 

Twentieth, 

Vingtihne, 

vantec-em. 

Thirtieth, 

Trentilme, 

tron  tee-em. 

Fortieth, 

Quarantieme, 

etc.,       etc.,       etc. 

karontee-cm, 

A    FEW   NAMES    OF   VERY    COMMON    OIUECTS    ANB 
PERSONS. 


The  bread. 
The  salt, 
Some  butter, 
A  knife, 
A  fork, 
The  dish, 


( With  different  prefixes.) 


Lepain, 

Le$el, 

Du  beurre, 

Un  couteau, 

Unefourchette, 

Vassiette, 


leh  pan. 
leh  8 el. 
deuh  berr. 
oon  cohto. 
oon  forchet. 
r  ashyet. 


302 


SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 


ENGLISH. 

A  napkin, 

The  eggs. 

Beef, 

Roast  beef. 

Some  potatoes. 

Oysters, 

Mutton, 

Veal, 

Some  pork. 

Some  cherries. 

The  table, 

Pepper, 

Mustard, 

That  church, 

This  street. 

The  street-comer, 

A  bottle. 

The  goblet  (glass), 

A  cup. 

Some  coffee, 

A  cup  of  tea, 

A  big  fish. 

The  little  dog, 

My  soup. 

Your  brandy, 

Our  cucumbers, 

A  spoou. 

The  carriage. 

The  railway. 

The  shoes, 

A  pair  of  boots, 

A  coat, 

The  trowsers, 

A  new  vest. 

The  waiter, 

The  prison. 

The  doctor, 

do 
The  hotel, 
A  stairway, 
Abed, 

The  bed-chamber, 
A  furnished  room, 
A  beef-steak, 
A  beef-steak  well  done, 
do        rare  done. 


FRENCH. 

line  serviette, 
Des  cmfSy 
Le  boivf, 
Hosbif, 

Des  pommes  de  terre, 
Les  huitres, 
Le  mouton, 
Le  veau, 
2>u  pore, 
Quelque  cerises. 
La  table, 
Lepoivre, 
La  moutarde, 
Cette  eglise, 
Cette  rue  ci, 
Le  coin  de  la  rue, 
Une  bouteUle, 
Le  verre, 
Une  tasse, 
Du  cafe, 
Une  tasse  de  the, 
Un  gros  poisson, 
Le  petit  chien, 
Monpotage, 
Votre  eau  de  vie, 
Nos  concombres, 
Une  cidUer, 
La  voiture, 
Le  chemin  defer, 
Les  eovliers, 
Une  pair  de  bottes, 
Un  habit, 
Les  culottes 
Un  ffilet  nouveau, 
Le  gargon. 
La  prison, 
Le  docteur, 
Le  medecin, 
L''hotel, 
Un  escalier, 
Un  lit. 

La  chambre  a  cmicher, 
Une  chambre  garnie, 
Un  biftek, 
Un  bifted  bien  cidt, 
do      saignant. 


PKONXmCIATION. 

oon  survyet. 
dez  ufe. 
leh  beff. 
r-r-oasbif. 
day  pom  deh  tair. 
lez  weeter. 
leh  mootong. 
leh  vo. 
deah  pork. 
kelke  sareese. 
lah  tahble. 
leh  pwavr. 
lah  mootard. 
set  eeglees. 
set  reuw  see. 
leh  qnan  deh  lah  roo. 
oon  bootyee. 
leh  verr. 
oon  tas. 
douh  caffay. 
oon  tas  deh  tay. 
oon  gro  pwasson. 
leh  paytce  sheeon. 
mon  po-tahj. 
vootr  o  devee. 
no  concombr. 
oon  koolyare. 
lah  vwateur. 
leh  shaman  deh  fair. 
Jay  solyair. 
oon  piar  day  boat, 
oon  abbee. 
lay  cooloat. 
oon  jelay  novo, 
leh  garsoon. 
lah  pre-zon. 
leh  docterr. 
leh  maydeesan. 
lotel. 

oon  eskalyay. 
oon  lee. 

leh  shambr  ah  cooshay. 
oon  shambr  gamee. 
oon  biftek. 

oon  biftek  beyon  quee. 
de        sagnyong. 


A  FJEW   USEFUL  rHEASES. 


303 


ENGLISH. 

Fried  potatoes, 

A  looking-glass, 

An  umbrella, 

Thomas's  hat, 

The  other  horse, 

Wine, 

Some  water. 

The  comb. 

The  window. 

The  door, 

A  great  house, 

The  porter, 

Breakfast, 

Dinner. 

Supper, 

A  handkerchief. 

The  watch, 

A  little  clock, 

A  room, 

Our  gloves. 

The  shirts, 

A  trunk, 

My  basket, 

The  theatre, 

A  theatre-box. 

Reserved  seats, 

A  seat  in  the  theatre, 

A  ticket  of  admission. 

The  porter, 

A  chamber  maid. 

Meats, 

The  baggage. 

An  attendant, 

A  body  servant. 


Pommel  de  terref rites, 

Un  niiroir, 

Oon  parapluie, 

Le  chapeau  de  Tkonias, 

V autre  cfieval, 

Le  Tin, 

De  Feau, 

Le  peigne, 

Lafenetre, 

La  parte, 

Une  grande  mais&n, 

Leportier, 

Le  dejejiner, 

Le  diner, 

Le  sovper, 

Un  mouchoir, 

La  montre, 

Une  petite  cloche, 

Un  appartement, 

Nos  gants, 

Les  chemises, 

Une  malle, 

Mon  pannier, 

Le  theatre, 

Une  loge  de  thedd'e. 

Places  nutnerotees 

Un  place  au  theatre, 

Un  billet  d^entree, 

Le  concierge, 

Une  femme  de  chambre. 


Le  bagage, 

Un  valet  de  place, 

Un  valet  de  chambre. 


PEONUNCIATION. 

pom  de  tayr  frete. 

oon  meerwa. 

oon  paraplu. 

leh  shappo  deh  Tomas. 

lotr  shayvol. 

leh  van. 

dello. 

leh  pine. 

lah  faynayter. 

lab  poart. 

oon  grond  miyeson. 

leh  portya. 

leh  dejunay. 

leh  dceiia}'. 

leh  soopay. 

oon  mooshwar. 

lah  montr. 

oon  patee  cloash. 

oon  appartmawng. 

no  gavvnt. 

la  shem-ecsc. 

oon  mal. 

niawiig  panya. 

lah  teeatr. 

oon  loaj  deh  teeatr. 

plass  numayroatay. 

oon  plass  oh  teeatr. 

oon  beyea  dawn  tray. 

leh  consairghe. 

von  fam  deh  chambre. 

veeond. 

leh  bahgahzj. 

oon  vallee  deh  plass. 

oon  vallee  deh  shombr. 


QUESTIONS,    ANSWERS     AND    INQUIRIES,    OFTENEST 
USEFUL. 

Mailivay  Travelling. 

[7b  buy  a  ticket^  etc.,  at  the  office.] 

Tbavbxleb. — Monsieur,  je  desire  un  billet  pnir  Paris.  (Pronovnced :  Jzhe 
dayseer  oon  beyea  poor  Parreese.  English :  Sir,  I  wish  a  ticket  to 
Paris.) 


304  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

Ticket-Sklleb. — Certainement,  Monsieur;  qiCelle  dasse  vcndez  rotts? 
(Pro.  Sertanmong,  Mossiew;  kel  clahs  yoolay  voo?  Enff.  Certainly, 
sir  ;  what  class  will  you  have  ?) 

Trav.— Quel  est  k  prix  des  jAaces  ?  (Pro.  Kel  ay  leh  pree  da  plass.  I^ng. 
What  is  the  price  of  places.) 

TiCK-ET-S.—Les  j/remieres  amient  cinquanU  francs,  et  les  secmdes  (rente 
francs.  (Pro.  La  prameyer  cootont  sankont  fronk,  ay  la  segond  trout 
fronk.    Eng.  The  first  cost  fifty  francs,  the  second  thirty.) 

TRAX.—Donnez  moi  Us  secondes,  s^U  vans  plait.  (Pro.  Donneh  mwa  lay  ae- 
gond,  seel  voo  play.    Eng.  Give  me  the  second,  if  you  please.) 

TiCKET-B.—  Co7nlden  de places.  Monsieur.^  (Pro.  Combeyon  deh  plass,  Mos- 
siew.   Eng.  How  many  places,  sir  f) 

Tray.— Une  pour  moi  seulement.  (Pro.  Oon  poor  mwa,  soolmawng.  Eng. 
One  for  myself  only.) 

TicKKT-S.— Fbia",  Monsieur.  (Pro.  Waheee,  Mossiew.  Eng.  Here  it  is, 
sir.) 

l^Making  Inquiries.'\ 

Question. — A  qu'eUe  heurepart  le  train  pour  Paris  ?    (Pro.  Ah  kel  oor  par 

leh  tran  poor  Parree?    Eng.  At  what  hour  does  the  train  start  for 

Paris  ?) 
Answer.— i€  train  part  a  dix  heures.  (Pro.  Leh  tran  par  tah  dee  soor:  Eng. 

The  train  leaves  at  ten  o'clock.) 
Qu.— Ou  nous  arreterons  nous  pour  diner  f    (Pro.  Oo  noo  sarrayteron  noo 

poor  denay  ?    Eng.  Where  flo  we  stop  for  dinner  ? 
Anb. — A  Eown,  Monsieur.    (Pro.  Ah  Kuan,  Mossiew.     Eng.  At  Koaen, 

sir.) 
Qr. — Combien  de  temps  s'arrete-t-on  ici?    (Pro.  Combeyon  deh  torn  sah- 

rayteton  esee  ?    Eng.  How  long  time  do  we  stop  here  ?) 
Asa.— Vingt  minutes  d^ arret.     (Pro.   Vant  meenwheet  darray.     Eng. 

Twenty  minutes  of  stoppage.) 
Qc— J.  quelle  heure  partirons  nous ?    (Pro.  Ah  kel  oor  parteron  noo ? 

Eng.  At  what  hour  do  we  start  ?) 
Aks. — Bans  quinze  minutes.  Monsieur.  (Pro.  Dawn  kanz  meenwheet,  Mos- 
siew.   Eng.  In  fifteen  minutes,  sir.) 
(^v.—Est  ce  le  train  pour  Dijon  ?    (Piv.  Ay  see  leh  tran  poor  Deejzhon  ? 

Eng.  Is  this  the  train  for  Dijon  ?) 
Ans.— A'oft,  Monsieur;  ce  train  est  dix  minutes  en  retard.     (Pro.  Non, 

ilossiew  ;  seh  tran  a  dee  meenwheet  on  raytard.    Eug.  No,  sir ;  that 

train  is  ten  minutes  behind.) 
Ass.— Oui,  Monsieur;  ce  train  en  droit.    (Pro.  Wee,  Mossiew;  set  tran 

on  drwat.    Eng.  Yes,  sir ;  that  train  on  the  right.) 
Qr. — Changeons  nous  a  la  prochaine  station.^    (Pro.   Shonjayon  noo  ah 

lah  proshain  stahshon  ?    Eng.  Do  we  change  at  the  next  station  ?) 
Ass.—Kon,  Momieur ;  le  premier  change  est  a  Bellegarde.     Pro.  Nong, 


A  FEW  USEFUL  PHRASES.  305 

Mossiew;  leh  premya  shonjc  es  tab  Belgard.    Eng.  No,  sir;  the  first 
change  is  at  Bellegarde.) 

[  Warnings  and  Demands.'\ 

QuABD  OR  'PoviT'EVL.— Monsieur  a-t-il  d'avantage  de  hagage?  {Pro.  Mos- 
sicw  ah  teel  dah  vantahzj  deh  bahgahzj  ?  Eng.  Has  the  gentleman 
any  more  baggage  ?) 

TaAv.— iVon,  Mormew — tout  k  hagage  est  dans  la  voiture.  (Pro.  Nong, 
Mossiew — too  leh  bahgahzj  ay  dawn  lah  vwahtenr.  Eng.  No,  sir— all 
the  luggage  [American.  "  baggage  "]  is  in  the  carriage.) 

GuAED. — Vos  billets,  Mesdamos  et  Messieurs.  (Pro.  Vo  beyea,  Maydam  ay 
Messiew.    En-g.  Your  tickets,  ladies  and  gentlemen.) 

GuABD.— ^»  voiture.  Messieurs.'— en  voiture!  (Pro.  On  vwahtenr,  Mes- 
siew !— on  vwahteur !    Eng.  Take  your  carriages,  gentlemen  !) 

Guard.— jFn  voiture,  de  suite.  Messieurs,  s'il  vous  plait !  (Pm.  On  vwateur, 
deh  sweet,  Messiew,  seel  voo  play  1  Eng.  Take  your  carriages,  gen- 
tlemen, in  a  hurry,  if  you  please  I) 

QvASD.— Change  de  voitures,  Messieurs\  (Pro.  Shonjay  deh  vwateur, 
Messiew !    Eng.  Change  carriages,  gentlemen !) 

Taking  Carriages  and  Riding. 

Tbav.— (Tb  Cabman,  on  stand)  Coche/r,  ete  vous  libre  ?   (Pro.  Coshay,  ettay 

vooleebr?    ^/7^.  Cabman,  are  you  free?  [disengaged.] 
Cabman.— .S^ore,  Monsieur,  f  attends  qudqu'un.     (Pro.  Nong,  Mossiew, 

zjahttond  kelkoon.    Eng.  No,  sir ;  I  am  waiting  for  some  one.) 
Cabman.— 6>wf,  Monsieur— je  suis  libre.     (Pro.  Wee,  Mossiew,  jeh  swee 

leebr.    Eng.  Yes,  sir,  I  am  disengaged.) 
Tray.— Donnez  Tnois  -cotre  carte.     Pro.  Donneh  mwa  voatr  cart.     Eng. 

Give  me  your  card — i.  e.,  the  card  of  prices  which  all  French  cabmen 

carry  with  them.) 
Trav.— J«  vous  prends  a  la  course.    (Pro.  Je  voo  prand  ah  lah  coorse. 

Eng.  I  engage  you  for  the  route  to  which  I  wish  to  go.)    Or, 
Trav.— J«  vous  prends  a  Vheure.  (Pro.  Je  voo  prend  ah  loor.    Eng.  I  take 

you  by  the  hour. 
CASUAjst.—Ou  faitt-U  vous  conduire  Monsieur  ?    (Pro.  Oo  fo  teel  voo  con- 

dweer  Mossiew  ?    Eng.  Where  does  the  gentleman  wish  to  be  taken  ? 
Trav.  An  Grand  Hotel ;  or.  au  Boulevard  Poissonniere,  numero  cinquante- 

huit.    (Pro.  Oh  Gron  Dotal;  or,  oh  Boolevard  Pvvassonyer,  numero 

sankont-wheet.    Eng.  To  the  Grand  Hotel ;  or,  to  the  Boulevard  Pois- 

soniere,  number  fifty-eight.) 
Trav.— Allez!    (Pro.  Allay  1    .Fng'.  Goon!) 
Tray.— Marchez!  marcJiez!    (Pro.  Marshay!  marshayl    Eng.  Paster! 

faster  1) 


306  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

Tbav. — Pas  si  vite!  or,  AUez  plus  dmicement!     {Pro.  Pah  se  veet;  or 

allay  ploo  doosmong.    Eng.  Go  more  slowly.) 
Tbav.  (When  getting  out  of  the  cab,  to  have  it  v:?i\l)~Attendez  vwi  id  : 

je  tais  revenir ;  or,  je  reviens  dans  quelque  minutes.     (Pro.  Je  vay 

rayvaneer ;  or,  je  rayreeon  dawn  kelk  meenwheet.    Eng.  Wait  for  me 

here  I  will  return ;  or,  I  will  return  in  a  few  minutes.) 
Cabsian.— ifon.  argent.  Monsieur!    (Pro.  Mong  aijong,  Mossiew !    Eng. 

My  money,  sir ! 
Tray.— Void.    (Pro.  Vwassee.    Eng.  Here  it  is.) 
Cabmak. — Plus  encore  le  pour  boire.  Monsieur!    (Pro.  Ploo  sancoar  leh 

poor  bwar,  Mossiew !    Eng.  More  yet,  sir :  the  drink-money  !) 
Tbav. — Combien  de  pour  boire?    (Pro.  Combeyon  deh  poor  bwar?    Eng. 

How  much  drink-money  ?) 
Tbav.— C«  n^est  pas  2X>8sible  de  payer  rien  de  plus.    (Pro.  Ce  nay  pah  pos- 

seebl  deh  paya  reeon  deh  ploo.    Eng.  It  is  not  possible  [for  me]  to 

pay  any  thing  more.) 
TbjlY .—Arretez !  or,  arretez  wits,  cocker!    (Pro.  arraytay;  or,  arraytay 

vonB,  coehay.    Eng.  Stop  !  or,  stop,  coachman.) 

Eating  and  I>rinking, 

Ordebs  to  Waitees. — Gargon,  faites  moi  sercir.  (Pro.  Gahsoon,  fajt 
mwa  sareveer.  Eng.  Waiter,  attend  on  me.)  .Je  desire  diner.  (Pro. 
Je  deseer  deenay.  Eng.  I  wish  dinner.)  Donnez  moi  du  potage  a  la 
Julienne.  (Pro.  Donnay  mwa  deuh  potahj  ah  lah  Jzhulion.  Eng.  Give 
me  some  soup  a  la  Julienne.)  Du  rosbifbien  cuit.  (Piv.  Deuh  roosbif 
beeyon  quee.  Eng.  Some  roast-beef  well  done.)  Du  rosbif  saignani. 
(Pro.  Deuh  roasbif  samyong.  Eng.  Some  roast-beef  rare.)  Du  iwrc 
roll.  (Pro.  Deuh  pork  roatee.  Eng.  Some  roast  pork.)  I)-u  pain. 
(Pro.  Deuh  pan.  En^.  Some  bread.)  Encore  un  peu  pins  de  beurre. 
(Pro.  Oncoar  oon  pew  ploo  deh  burr.  Eng.  A  little  more  butter.)  Une 
tasse  de  cafe.  (Pro.  Oon  tass  deh  caffay.  Eng.  A  cup  of  coflee.)  Un 
verre  d'eau.  (Pro.  Oon  vayr  doe.  Eng.  A  glass  of  water.)  Un  verre 
d'eau  glacee.  (Pro.  Oon  vayr  doe  glassay.  Eng.  A  glass  of  ice-water.) 
Des  pcnnme  de  terre.  (Pro.  Day  pom  deh  tayr.  Eng.  Some  potatoes.) 
Une  bouteiUe  de  vin  rouge.  (Pro.  Oon  hootye  deh  van  ruzjh.  Eng.  A 
botOe  of  red  wine.)  Um  demi-bo^iteille  de  vin  blanc.  (Pro.  Oon  daymee  • 
bootye  de  van  blong.  Eng.  A  half-bottle  of  white  wine.)  Apportez 
moi  un  assiette  propre.  (Pro.  Apporteh  mwa  oon  awsyet  proapr.  Eng. 
Bring  me  a  clean  plate.)  Un  fricassee  de  poulet.  (Pro.  Oon  frecasay 
deh  poolay.  Eng.  A  chicken  fricasee.)  J)e>jx  cotelets  de  v-eau.  (Pro. 
Deuh  cotaylay  de  vo.  Eng.  Two  veal  cutlets.)  Du  mouton  bouilli. 
(Pro.  Deuh  mootong  boolee.  Eng.  Some  boiled  mutton.)  Deux  mvfs 
frits.  (Pro.  Deuz  ufe  freet.  Eng.  Two  fried  eggs.)  Du  poisson* 
lodHli.  (Pro.  Deuh  pwassong  boolee.  Eng.  Boiled  fish.)  Du  jxtin 
au  Sucre.    (Pro.  Deuh  pan  o  sukr.    Eng.  Some  cake.)    Du  pates  de 


A  FEW  USEFUL  PHRASES.  307 

ffuits.  {Pro.  Dcnh  Pahtay  de  fruee.  Eng.  Some  fruit  pies.)  Du  sucre. 
(Pro.  Deuh  Boocr.  Eny.  Some  sugar.)  Le  sel.  (Eng.  The  salt.)  Un 
autre  cuUler.  (Pro.  Oon  otre  queelay.  Eng.  Another  spoon.)  Une 
assiette,  un  cmdeau,  xinefourchette,  et  une  serviette.  {Pro.  Oon  awsseyet, 
•  oon  coeto,  oon  forshet  et  oon  sairveeyet.  Eng.  A  plate,  a  knife,  a  fork 
and  a  napkin.)  V addition.,  s'il  vousiilait.  (Pro.  Laddishong,  seel  voo 
play.    Enfj.  The  bill,  if  you  please.) 

Greetings. 

Bon  jour.  Monsieur.  (Pro.  Bong  joor,  Mossiew.  Eng.  Good-morning, 
Bir.)  Bon  soir.  (Pro.  Bong  swar.  Eng.  Good  evening,  when  meet- 
ing; and  good-night,  when  separating.)  Adieu!  (Pro.  Ahdeyon. 
Eng.  €rOod-bye.)  Au  revoir.  (Pro.  O  rayvwar.  Eng.  Farewell,  but 
to  return— literally,  good-by£  for  a  little  while.)  J'ai  Vhonneur  de  vous 
saluer.  (Pro.  Sjay  lonner  deh  voo  salooer.  Eng.  I  have  the  honor  to 
salute  you.)  Permittez  moi  de  prendre  conge  de  vmis.  {P>-o.  Permeetay 
mwa  deh  prondr  conjay  deh  voo.  Eng.  Permit  me  to  take  leave  of 
you.)  Merci.  Madam !  {Pro.  Mayrsee,  Mahdam  I  Eng.  Thank  you, 
Madame !)  MiUe  remerciements.  Mademoiselle.  (Pro.  Meel  raymayr- 
ehemons,  Madrawasel.  Eng.  A  thousand  thanks,  Miss.)  Je  vous 
remercui.  Monsieur.  (Pro.  Je  voo  raymayrci,  Mossiew.  Eng.  I  thank 
you,  sir.) 

Inquiries,  etc. 

Pardon,  Monsieur!  (Pro.  Pardong,  Mossiew.  Eng.  Beg  pardon,  sir! 
[always  to  be  usg d  in  accosting  any  stranger  or  making  apology  for  any 
contretemps.])  Je  vous  iirie  de  mHndiquer  cette  addresse,  etc.  (Pro. 
Sje  voo  pree  deh  mandeekay  cet  address,  etc.  Eng.  I  beg  you  to  in- 
dicate to  me  that  address,  etc.)  Pans  quelle  direction  est  VEglise  de  St. 
Boc/i  f  (Pro.  Dawn  kel  derecshon  ay  layglee  de  San  Roash.  Eng.  In 
what  direction  is  the  church  of  St.  Roch  ?) '  Ou  est  situ'ee  cette  rue ? 
(Pro.  Go  ay  seetuay  set  roo  ?  Eng.  Where  is  that  street  situated ':) 
Qi.Celle  est  cette  maison  f  {Pro.  Kel  ay  set  myeson  ?  Eng.  What  house 
is  that?)  Enface  est-ce  U7ie  maison  de  modes?  (Pro.  On  fass  ay  se 
oon  myeson  deh  moad?  Eng.  Is  that  the  fashion-shop,  opposite?) 
Pe  quel  cote  la  Bourse,  a  droite  ou  a  gauche  f  {Pro.  Deh  kel  cotay  lah 
Boors,  ah  drwat  ou  ah  goash  ?  Eng.  Which  way  is  the  Bourse,  to  the 
right  or  the  left?)  J^ai  besoin  d'habits.  {Pro.  Sjayba-swan  dabbee. 
Eng.  I  desire  some  clothes  [in  buying].)  Quel  en  est  leprix,  etc.  (Pro. 
Kel  on  ay  leh  pree,  etc.  Eng.  What  is  the  price,  etc.)  C'est  trap  cher! 
(Pro.  See  ay  tro  share.    Eng.  That  is  too  dear  or  high-priced.) 

Finding  Interpreter  or  Guide. 

Je  desire  un  inte^prele.  Pro.  Sje  daseer  oon  antayrpret.  Eng.  I  wish  an 
interpreter.)    Je  voudraia  un  garcon  pour  vis  montre  les  places  priruA- 


308  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

pales.  Pro.  Sje  voodray  oon  gareoon  poor  montr  me  lay  plass  pransee 
pal.  Eng.  I  require  a  servant  to  point  me  out  the  principal  pkces  [of 
interest.])  Je  desire  un  valet  de  place  qui  parle  V Anglais.  (Pro.  Je 
daseer  oon  vallee  deh  plass  ke  pari  long-glay.  Eng.  I  wish  a  valet  who 
speaks  English.)  ya-t-il  guelgu'un  id  gueparle  Analais  f  Pro.  Ee 
ateel  kelkoon  esee  kee  pari  Ongglay  ?  Eng.  Is  there  any  one  here 
•who  speaks  English  ?  Qui  voulez  tous  qui  m^accompagner  adjourd- 
huif  (Pro.  Kee  voolay  voo  kee  maccompang  adjerdwhee  ?  Eng. 
What  do  you  ask,  to  accompany  me  during  this  day  ?)  Qui  dematulez 
vous,  etc.  (Pro.  Kee  damandah  voo,  etc.  Eng.  What  do  you  demand, 
etc.) 

Entering,  Finding  Persons,  etc. 

Q.  (Knocking  or  at  a  door.)  Puis-je  entrer?  or,  me  permittez  vous  d'en- 
trer  ?  (Pro.  Pweege  ontra  ?  or,  me  permeetta  voo  dontra  ?  Eng. 
May  I  come  in?  or,  Will  you  permit  me  to  enter'-)  A.  Entrez!  or 
Certainement !  (Pro.  Ontray!  or,  Certanmong.  Eng.  Come  in,  or. 
Certainly.)  Q.  Monsieur  H.,  est-il  d  la  maison.?  or,  est-il  chez  luif 
Pro.  Mossiew  H.,  esteel  ah  la  myesong  ?  or,  esteel  sha  Inee?  Eng. 
Mr.  H.,  is  he  in  the  house  ?  or,  is  he  at  home  ?)  A.  Out,  Monsieur, 
Mons.  H.  est  dans  sa  diambre.  (Pro.  Wee,  Mossiew,  Mossiew  H.  a  don 
sah  shombr.  Eng.  Yes,  sir,  Mr.  H.  is  in  his  room.)  Q.  Puis-je  le 
•coir  ?  (Pro.  Pweege  sje  leh  vwar  ?  Eng.  Can  I  see  him  ?)  Or,  Be- 
mandez  lui  «7  peut  me  recevoir.  (Pro.  Daymanday  luee  seel  pent  me 
raysayvwar.  Eng.  Ask  him  if  he  is  able  to  see  me.)  A.  Xon,  Mon- 
sieur, Mons.  U.  n'est  pas  a  la  maison ;  or,  n^est  x>as  chez  lui.  (Pro. 
Nong,  Mossiew,  Mossiew  H.  neeay  pah  ah  lah  myeson ;  or,  neeay  pah 
Bha  luee.  Eng.  No,  sir,  Mr.  H.  is  not  in  the  house ;  or,  is  not  at 
home.)  Q.  A  qu^elle  heure  rentrer  a-t-il ?  Pro.  Ah  kel  oor  rontrara- 
teel?  Eng.  At  what  hour  wUl  he  return?  Bemeitez  men  carte  d 
Mons.  E.,  s'il  vous  plait.  (Pro.  Eametta  mon  cart  ah  Mossiew  H., 
Beel  voo  play.    Eng.  Send  my  card  to  Mr.  H.,  if  you  please.) 

Language. 

Parlez  vous  le  Francois  ?  (Pro.  Parlay  voo  leh  Fronsay  ?  Eng.  Do  you 
speak  French?)  Parlez  tous  l' Anglais P  (Pro.  Parlay  voo  long- 
glay  ?  Eng.  Do  you  speak  English  ?)  Y^  a-i-il  quelqu'un  id  qui  parle 
r Anglais  ?  (Pro.  Eeeateel  kelkoon  esee  kee  pari  longglay  ?  Eng.  Is 
any  one  here  who  speaks  English?)  M'' enfendez vous ?  (Pro.  Mau- 
tauday  vous  ?  Eng.  Do  yon  understand  me  ?)  Me  comprenez  vous  ? 
(Pro.  Me  compranay  voo  ?  Eng.  Do  you  comprehend  me  ?)  Je  vous 
comprends  tres-bien.  (Pro.  Sje  voo  comprond  tray  beeon.  Eng.  I  un- 
derstand you,  very  well.)  Je  ne  vous  comprends  pai.  (Pro.  Sje  ne  voo 
comprond  pah.  Eng.  1  do  not  understand  you.)  Qui  apjKllez  t<ms, 
etc.  (Pro.  Cappella  voo,  etc.  Eng.  What  do  you  call,  etc.)  PepeteZy 
s'il  voMsjjiait;  or,  r'kpetez,  je  vous  prie.    (Pro.  Kaypaytay,  seel  voo 


A  FEW   USEFUL  PHRASES.  309 

play ;  or,  raypectay  gjc  voo  pree.  Eng.  Repeat,  if  you  please  ;  or,  I 
beg  you.)  Je  parte  nial  de  Frangais ;  paries  pli/s  doucement^  je  vous 
prie.  {Pro.  Sje  pari  mal  deh  Fronsay  :  parlay  ploo  ducemong,  sje  voo 
pree.    Eng.  I  speak  bad  French  :  speak  more  slowly,  I  beg  you.) 

In  Want. 

Je  mis  trls  pauvre  !  faites  mat  du  charite.,  })our  r amour  de  Bleu  !  (Pro.  Sje 
swee  tray  poavre :  fayt  mwa  dnh  charitay,  poor  lamoor  deh  Deyoo.  Eng. 
•  I  am  very  poor :  do  me  some  charity,  for  the  love  of  God  !)  Or,  Pour 
Vamour  de  la  ires  Sainte  Vierge.  (Pro.  Poor  lamoor  deh  lah  tray  Sant 
Vairj  1  Eng.  For  the  love  of  the  most  Blessed  Virgin.)  J'ai  ires 
/aim/  (Plro.  Sjaytrayfam.  .Fwg^.  I  am  very  luingry.)  J'aiirhfroid.' 
(Pro.  S'jay  tray  frwa.  Eng.  I  am  very  cold.)  J'ait7'h  soif!  (Pro. 
Sjay  tray  swaf.  Eng.  I  am  very  thirsty.)  J^n^ai  pas  d^argeni  f  Pro, 
Je  na  pah  larghong.    Eng.  I  have  no  money.) 

In  Sudden  Sickness  or  Accident. 

Je  mis  malade.  (Pro.  Sje  swee  mahlad.  Eng.  I  am  sick.)  Je  suis  trh 
malade.  (Pro.  Sje  swee  tray  mahlad.  Eng.  I  am  very  sick.)  Jai  mal 
a  la  tele.  (Pro.  Sjay  mal  ah  lah  tayt.  Eng.  I  have  sickness  in  the 
head.)  3Ia  Jambe  est  cassee.  Pro.  Ma  jhomb  a  cazzay.  Eng.  My  leg 
[or  my  arm— »?om  bras,  brah]  is  broken.)  Je  vous  prie  de  nufaire  con- 
duite  immediatement  chez  un  pharmacien.  (Pro.  Sje  voo  pree  deh  me 
fair  condwee  immeedjatemong  shez  oon  pharmahsheeon.  Eng.  I  beg 
you  to  have  me  taken  at  once  to  a  doctor's-shop.)  ConduUez  moi  im- 
mediatenient  chez  un  docteur  Anglais.,  Messieurs,  je  vous  prii.  (Pro. 
Condweesa  mwa  immeedjatemong  chez  oon  docter  Ongglay,  Mes- 
eiew,  Bje  voo  pree.  Eng.  Take  me  immediately  to  an  English  doctor, 
gentlemen,  I  beg  you.) 

[For  reasons  that  will  be,  as  the  sensational  wri- 
ters say,  "  obvious  to  the  meanest  capacity,"  no  at- 
tempt is  made  at  instructing  the  untravelled  Ameri- 
can as  to  any  words  or  formulas  of  love-maJcing  in 
France.  Two  reasons  might  be  adduced,  in  case  of 
extreme  necessity  :  one,  that  the  writer  is  totally 
uninstructed  on  that  special  sul)ject ;  the  other,  that 
none  of  his  clients  are  likely  to  need  much  instruc- 
tion. At  all  events,  he  declines  to  assume  any  rC' 
sponsibility.] 


310  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 


GERMAIST. 

The  following  table  of  the  German  vowels  and 
consonants  differing  in  sound  from  the  English, 
may  aid  m.  understanding  the  spelling  of  the  pro- 
nunciation, and  insure  as  much  accuracy  as  is  possi- 
ble by  printed  characters.  ♦ 

A  eonnda  like  ah  in  ah !  or  a  in  father,  party ;  for  example,  das  glas, 
pronounced  dahs  glahs.  It  should  be  remembered  that  in  the  spelling  of 
the  pronunciation,  the  ah  is  not  designed  to  lengthen  the  syllable,  but 
simply  to  represent  the  sound  of  the  a. 

E  is  equal  to  ay  in  day,  as  der,  pronounced  dayr.  It  lias  also  the  sound 
of  the  English  e  in  ell,  as  elfte  =  elfty  ;  and  that  of  y  in  twenty,  as  erste  = 
ayrs'ty. 

I  sounds  like  ee  in  cheer,  as  Tnlr=  meer,  and  also  as  i  in  pin,  as  bin  = 
bin. 

TJ  is  equivalent  to  oo  in  poor,  as  nur  =  noor. 

Ae  or  a  equals  ay  in  may.  It  is  so  like  the  usual  sound  of  e  that  it  is 
seldom  distinguished  from  that  lett«r  in  the  pronunciation. 

Oe,  or  o  has  no  equivalent  in  English.  It  is  like  the  French  eu  in  feu, 
and  approximates  very  nearly  the  e  In  girl,  a?  h3re=hu'ray. 

C%,  or  M  is  nearly  like  u  in  avenue,  or  the  French  u  in  lu,  as  uber  = 
ev'ber. 

Au  =  ow  in  hoio,  as  ham  =  howss. 

Eu  =  oy  in  boy,  as  heute  =  hoy'tay. 

Ei=y  in  fly,  or  ey  in  eye,  rnein  ==  meyn. 

B,  at  the  end  of  syllables,  is  pronounced  like  p,  as  Aa®  =  Juthlp  ;  KaJb- 
fldsch=Kahlpfley8h.    Elsewhere  like  the  English  b. 

D,  at  the  end  of  syllables,  has  the  sound  of  t,  as  nnd  =  oont ;  gesund- 
fteit  =  gay-zoont'heyt.    Elsewhere,  like  the  English  d. 

G  =  g  ia  give,  at  the  beginning  of  syllables,  as  gut  =  goot.  At  the  end 
it  has  a  sound  between  g  and  k.  There  is  nothing  like  it  in  English,  and 
is  represented  in  the  following  pages  by  hg,  as  vierzig  =fear'tsihg. 

^sounds  like  y  in  you,  as  ja  =  yah  ;  jdger  =  yay'ger. 

S,  at  the  beginning  of  syllables,  sounds  like  z  in  zoni,  as  sein  —  zeyn. 
Elsewhere  like  « in  son,  as  maus  =  mowss. 

V  has  the  sound  of/,  as  von  =fon ;  vier  =fear. 

W  is  like  v,  as  wenn  =  xen  ;  wasser  =  vahs'ser. 

Z  sounds  like  ts  in  rats,  as  zehn  =  tsayn  ;  zu  =  tsoo. 

Ch  is  pronounced  like  Jc,  at  the  beginning  of  syllables,  as  cTwr  =  kore. 
Elsewhere,  either  like  eh  in  the  Scotch  word  loch,  as  buch  =  booch,  or,  not 
quite  so  gutteral,  as  in  ich. 

Sch  =  sh  ia  shine,  as  fleisch  =fleysh. 


A  FEW  USEFUL  PHRASES. 


311 


MONTHS    OF    THE    TEAR   AND    DAYS    OF    THE    WEEK. 


ENGLISH. 

GERMAK. 

PRONOUNCED. 

January, 

Januar, 

Yah'nooahr. 

February, 

Febriiar, 

Fay'broo-ahr. 

March, 

Mdrz, 

Merts. 

April, 

April, 

Ah-pril'. 

May, 

Mai, 

My. 

Juue, 

Juni, 

Yoo'nee. 

July, 

Juli, 

You'lee. 

August, 

August, 

Ow-goost'. 

September, 

September, 

Zep-tem'ber. 

October, 

October, 

Oc-to'ber. 

November, 

November, 

No-vem'ber. 

December, 

December, 

Day-tsem'ber. 

Monday, 

Montag, 

Moan'tahg. 

Tuesday, 

Dienstag, 

Deens'tahg. 

"Wednesday, 

Mittwoch, 

Mit'vohch. 

Thursday, 

Donnerstag, 

Don'ners-tahg, 

Friday, 

Freitag, 

Fry'tahg. 

Saturday, 

Sonnabend  ;  or 

Zon'ah-bent;  or 

Samstag, 

Zahms'tahg. 

Sunday, 

Sonntag, 

Zon'tahg. 

NUMERALS   AND    ORDINALS. 


One, 

Eins, 

Eyns. 

Two, 

Zwei, 

Tsvy. 

Three, 

Drei, 

Dry. 

Four, 

Tier, 

Fear. 

Five, 

Funf, 

Feunf. 

Six, 

Sec/iS, 

Zes. 

Seven, 

Sieben, 

Zee'b'n. 

Eight, 

Acht, 

Ahcbt. 

Nine, 

Neun, 

Noyn. 

Ten, 

Zehn, 

Tsayn. 

Eleven, 

ElA 

Elf. 

Twelve, 

Zwolf, 

Tsvnif. 

Thirteen, 

Dreizehn, 

Dry 'tsayn. 

Fourteen, 

Tierzehn, 

Fear'tsayn. 

Fifteen, 

Funfzehn, 

Feunf'tsayn. 

Sixteen, 

Sechzehn, 

Zech'tsayn. 

Seventeen, 

Siebzehn, 

Zeeb'tsayn. 

Eighteen, 

Achtzehn, 

Ahcht'tsayn. 

27 


312 


SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 


ENGLISH. 

GEB5IAX. 

PROXOrNCED. 

Nineteen, 

Newizfhn, 

Noyn'tsayn. 

Twenty, 

Zwanzig, 

TsvahD'tsihg. 

Thirty, 

Breissig, 

Dry'slhgr. 

Forty, 

Vierzig, 

Fear'tsihg. 

Fifty, 

Funfzig, 

Feunf'tsihg. 

Sixty, 

Sechzig, ' 

Zeeh'tsihg. 

Seventy, 

Siebzig, 

Zeeb'tsihg. 

Eiijhty, 

Achtzig, 

Ahcht'tsihg. 

Ninety, 

Keunzig, 

Noyn'tsihg. 

One  hundred, 

Ein  Eundert, 

Eyn  Hoon'dert. 

One  thousand, 

Ein  Tausend, 

Eyn  Taw's'nt. 

One  million. 

Eine  Million, 

M.       F.      N. 

Ey'nay  Mill-yohn'. 

First, 

Der,  die,  das  crsU, 

Dayr,  dee,  dahs  ayrs'ty. 

Second, 

"    "    "    zweite. 

"      "      '•    tfvy'ty. 

Third, 

"    "    "    drUte, 

"      "      "    drit'ty. 

Fourth, 

"    "    "   Tierte, 

"     "     "    fear'ty. 

Fifth, 

"    "    "  funfte. 

"      "      "    feunf'ty. 

Sixth, 

"    "    "    sechste. 

"      "      "    zex'ty. 

Seventh, 

"    "    "    sieberUe, 

"      "      "    Bee'b'n-ty. 

Eighth, 

"    "    "    acJUe, 

"      "      "    ahch'ty. 

Ninth, 

*■■    "    "    neunte. 

"      "      "    noyn'ty. 

Tenth, 

"    "    "   zehnte. 

"      "      "    tsayn'ty. 

Eleventh, 

dfU, 

"      "      "    elf'ty. 

Twelfth, 

"    "    "   zwdlfte. 

"      "      "    tsvulfty. 

Thirteenth, 

"    "    "    dreizehnie. 

"      "      "    dry'tsayn-ty. 

Fourteenth, 

"    "    "    TierzeAnte, 

"      "      "    fear'tsayn-ty. 

Fifteenth, 

"    "    "  funf zehnte. 

"      "      "    feunftsayn-ty. 

Sixteenth, 

"    "    "    fechzehnte. 

"      "      "    zech'teayn-ty. 

Seventeenth, 

"    "    "    siebzehnte. 

"     "     "    zeeb'tsayn-ty. 

Eighteenth, 

"    "    "    achtzehnte. 

"      "      "    ahcht'tsayn-ty. 

Nineteenth, 

"    "    "    neunzehnte. 

"      "      "    noyn'tsayn-ty. 

Twentieth, 

"    '•    "   zwanzigste. 

"     "     "    tsvahn'tsihg-sty 

Thirtieth, 

"    "    "    dreissigste, 

"      "      "    dry'sihg-sty. 

Fortieth, 

"    "    "    vierzigste. 

"      "      "    fear'tsihg-sty. 

Fiftieth, 

"    "    "  funfzigste. 

"      "      "    feunf  tsihg-sty. 

A   FEW     NAMES     OF   VERY    COilJION    OBJECTS    AND 
PERSONS. 

{With  different  Prefixes.) 

The  bread,  Bas  Brod,  Dahs  Broht. 

The  salt.  Bos  Salz,  Dahs  Zalts. 

Some  butter,  Ettoas  Butter,  Et'vahs  Boot'ter. 


A  FEW  USEFUL  PHRASES. 


313 


EXGLISa. 

A  knife, 

A  fork, 

The  dish, 

A  napkin. 

The  eggs, 

Beef, 

Boast  beef, 

Some  potatoes, 

Oysters, 

Mutton, 

Veal, 

Some  pork, 

A  few  cherries. 

The  table. 

Pepper, 

Mustard, 

That  church. 

This  street, 

The  street  comer, 

A  bottle. 

The  goblet  (glass), 

A  cap, 

A  saucer. 

Some  coffee, 

A  cup  of  tea, 

A  big  fish. 

The  little  dog, 

My  soup. 

Your  brandy. 

Our  cucumbers, 

A  spoon. 

The  carriage. 

The  railway. 

The  shoes, 

A  pair  of  boots, 

A  coat. 

The  trowsers. 

The  prison. 

The  doctor. 

The  phy^sician. 

The  hotel, 

A  stairway. 

Abed, 

The  bedchamber, 

A  furnished  room, 


GERMAN. 

Ein  Meseer, 

Eine  Gabel, 

Die  Sckussil, 

Eine  Serviette, 

Die  Eier, 

Rindfleisch, 

Gerostetes  Rindflcisch, 

Einige  Kartoffeln, 

Austern, 

nammeljleisch, 

Kalbjleisch, 

Etwas  Schweinejleisch, 

Einige  Kirschen, 

Der  Tisck, 

R/effer, 

Sen/, 

Jene  Kirche, 

Diese  Strasse, 

Die  Strassotecke, 

Eine  Flasche, 

Das  Glas, 

Eine  Tasse, 

Eini  Unter tasse, 

Etwas  Kaffee, 

Eine  Tasse  Thee, 

Eine  grosser  Fisch, 

Der  Jdeine  Hund, 

Meine  Suppe, 

Ihr  Branntioetn, 

Unsei'e  Gurken, 

Ein  Ldffel, 

Die  Kutsche, 

Die  Eisenbahn, 

Die  Schuhe, 

Ein  Paar  Sliefel, 

Ein  Rock, 

Die  Beinkleider, 

Das  Gefangniss, 

Der  Doktor, 

Der  Arzt, 

Der  Gasthof, 

Eine  Trejype, 

Ein  Rett, 

Das  Schlafzimmer, 

Ein  mSblirtes  Zimmer, 


PRONOUNCED. 

Eyn  Mcs'ser. 

Ey'nay  Gah'b'l. 

Dee  Sheus's'l. 

Ey'nay  Zer-vyet'tay. 

Dee  Ey'er. 

Eint'flcysh. 

Gay-reus'tay-tes  Rint'fleysh. 

Ey'uee-gay  Car-tof'feln. 

Ows'tern. 

Hahm'mel-fleysh. 

Kahlp'fleysh. 

Et'vahs  Shvy'ny-.lcysh. 

Ey'nce-gay  Keer'shen. 

Dayr  Tish. 

Pfcf'fer. 

Zenf. 

Yay'uay  Kocr'chay. 

Dee'zay  Strahs'say. 

Dee  Strahs'sen-ek-kay. 

Ey'nay  Flah'sliay. 

Dahs  Glahs. 

Ey'nay  Tahs'say. 

Ey'nay  Oon'tcr-tahs'say. 

Et'vahs  Kahf'fay. 

Ey'nay  Tahs'say  Tay. 

Eyn  gros'ser  Fish. 

Dayr  kly'nay  Hoont. 

My'nay  Zoop'pay. 

Ear  Brahnt'veyn. 

Oou'ii'ray  Goor'lcen. 

EjTi  Leuf'f  1. 

Dee  Koot'shay. 

Dee  Ey'zen-bahn. 

Dee  Schoo'ay. 

Eyn  Pahr  Stec'f  I. 

Eyn  Rock. 

Dee  Beyn'kley-der. 

Dahs  Gay-feng'uiss. 

Dayr  Doc'tor. 

Dayr  Ahrtst. 

Dayr  Gahst'hof. 

Ey'nay  Trep'pay. 

Eyn  Bet. 

Dahs  Shlahf'tsim-mer. 

Eyn  mu-bleer'tes  Tsim'mer. 


314 


SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 


EXGLISH. 

A  beefsteak, 

Meat  wen  done, 

Rare  meat. 

Fried  potatoes, 

A  looking-glass, 

An  umbrella, 

John's  hat. 

The  other  horse. 

Wine, 

Some  water. 

The  comb, 

The  window. 

The  door, 

A  great  house. 

The  porter. 

Breakfast, 

Dinner, 

Supper, 

A  handkerchief, 

The  watch. 

A  little  clock, 

A  pen, 

Our  gloves. 

The  shirts, 

A  trunk. 

My  basket, 

The  theatre, 

A  theatre-box, 

Ecserved  seats, 

A  seat  in  a  theatre, 

A  ticket  of  admission 
A  body-sen'ant, 
A  chambermaid, 
The  baggage. 


GERMAN. 

Eine  geroslete  Bind- 

Jleisch  Scheide, 
Fleisch  vSUig  gar, 
Halb  gares  Fleisch, 
Gebratene  Kartqffdn, 
Ein  Spiegel, 
Ein  EegenschiiTii, 
JohanrCs  Hut, 
Das  andere  P/erd, 
Wein, 

Etwas  Wasser, 
Der  Kamm, 
Das  Femter, 
Die  Thur, 
Ein  grosses  Haus, 
Der  Pfdrtner, 
Fruhstuck, 
MittxigsmaM, 
Abendessen, 
Ein  Schnupftuch, 
Die  Taschenuhr, 
Eine  kleine  Wanduhr, 
Eine  Feder, 
Unsere  Handsckuhe, 
Die  Hemden, 
Ein  Koffer, 
Man  Korb, 
Das  Theater, 
Eine  Loge  des  Theaters, 
Yorbehallene  Sitze, 
Ein    Sitz    in   einem 

Theater, 
,  Ein  Einlasszettel, 
Ein  Kammerdiener, 
Ein  Kammerm/Mlchen, 
Das  Gepdck, 


PROSOfNCED. 

Ey'nay  gay-rus'tay-ty  Eint' 

fleysh  Shy 'bay. 
Fleysh  fullihg  gahr. 
Hahlp  gah'res  Fleysh. 
Gay-brah't'nay  Car-tof 'fela. 
Eyn  Spee'g'l. 
Ejn  Eay'gen-sheerm. 
Yo-hahn"8  Hoot. 
Dahs  ahn'd'ray  Pfayrt. 
Veyn. 

Et'vahs  Vahs'ser. 
Dayr  Kahm. 
Dahs  Fcns'ter. 
Dee  Tear. 

Eyn  gros'sess  Howss. 
Dayr  Phurt'ner. 
Freu'steok. 
Mit'tahgs-mahl. 
Ah'bent-es'sen. 
Eyn  Shnoopf  tooch. 
Die  Tah'shen-oor. 
Ey'nay  kly'nay  Vahnt'oor. 
Ey'nay  Fay'der. 
Oon'z'ray  Hahnt'shoo-ay. 
Dee  Hem'den. 
Ej-n  Kof 'fer. 
Meyn  Korp. 

Dahs  Tay-ah'ter.  [ters. 

Ey'nay  Lo'jay  des  Tay-ah'- 
For-bay-hahl't'ny  Zit'say. 
Eyn   Zits   in   ey'nem   Tay- 
ah'ter. 
EynEyn'lahs-tset't'l. 
Eyn  Kahm'mer-dee'ner. 
Eyn  Kahm'mer-mayd'gen. 
Dahs  Gay-peck'. 


QUESTIONS,  AlfSWEES  AND   INQUIRIES,   OFTEN  USEFUL. 

Railway  TravelUng. 

[To  buy  a  Ticket,  etc.,  at  the  Office.] 

Tbavelleb.— ilfe'/i  Be?r,  geben  Sie  mir  ein  BeisebiUet  nach  Paris.  {Pro- 
ruiunced.  Meyn  Hayr,  gay'ben  zee  meer  eyn  Eey'zay-bill-yet'  nahch. 
Pah-reess'.    English.  Sir,  give  me  a  ticket  to  Paris.) 


A  FEW  USEFUL  PHRASES.  515 

Ticket  SELLER.— Jff,  w?«»  2/(:?T.   Welche  Klasse .?  (Pro.  Yah,  meyn  Hayr. 

Vel-chay  Klahs-say  ?    En(/.  Yes,  sir.    What  class  ?) 
Tbav.— TFa*  kosten  dieridtze?    {Pro.  Vahs  kos'tcn  dee  Plet'say?    Eng. 

What  is  the  price  of  places?) 
Ticket  Q.—Die  Ersten  kosten  filnf  Thaler,  die  ziceiten  kosten  drei  Thaler. 

{Pro.  Dee  ayrs'ten  kos'tcn  feiinf  Tah'ler,  dee  tsvy'ten  kos'ten  dry 

Tah'ler.    Eng.  The  first  cost  five  dollars,  the  second  three.) 
Trat. — Geben  Sie  mir  gefdlligst  eins  zweiter  Klasse.     {Pro.  Gay'ben  zee 

meer  gay-fel'Iihgst  eyns  tsyy'ter  Klahs-say.    Eng.  Please  give  me  one 

of  the  second  claas.) 
Ticket  Q.—  Wie  viele,  meinHerr?    {Pro.  Vce  fee'Iay,  meyn  Hayr?    Eng. 

How  many,  sir  ?) 
T'B.x\-.—Oh,nureiHsfurmich.    {Pro.  Oh,  noor  eyns  feur  mich.    Eng.  Oh, 

one  for  myself  only.) 
Ticket  S. — Hier  isl  e-s,  mein  Herr.    {P?v.  Heer  ist  es,  meyn  Hayr.    Eng. 

Here  it  is,  sir.) 


[3TaJci7ig  Inquiries.~\ 


Question.— Cm  icelche  JJhr  geht  der  Zug  nach  Pai^is  ab  ?   {Pro.  Oom  vel'- 

chay  Oolir  gayt  dayr  Tsoohg  nahg  Pa-reess'  ahb  ?    Eng.  At  what  honr 

does  the  train  start  for  Paris  ?) 
Answer. — Ber  Zug  geht  inn  zehn  TJhr  ab.    {Pro.  Dayr  Tsoohg  gayt  oom 

tsayn  Oohr  ahb.    Eng.  The  train  starts  at  ten  o'clock.) 
Qtt.— TFo  halten,  wir  zutn  Mlttag  an  f    {Pro.  Voh  hahl'ten  veer  tsoom  Mit- 

tahg  ahn  ?    En^.  Where  do  we  stop  for  dinner  ?) 
Ans.— /«  Rouen,  mein  Herr.    {Pro.   In  Rouen,  mej-n  Hayr.    Eng.   At 

Rouen,  sir.) 
Qtr.—  Wie  lange  halten  ivir  hier  an  F   {Pro.  Vee  lahng'ay  hahl'ten  veer  heer 

ahn  ?    Eng.  How  long  do  we  stop  here  ?) 
An3. — Zwanzig  Minuten.    {Pro.  Tsvahn'tsihg  Min-oo'ten.    Eng.  Twenty 

minutes.) 
Qu. — Um  wie  'del  TJhr  geJien  wir  ab?  {Pro.  Oom  vce  feel  Oohr  gay'h'n  veer 

ahb?    Eng.  At  what  hour  do  we  start  ?) 
Ans. — In  einer  Viertel  Stunde,  mein  Herr.    {Pro.  In  ey'ner  fear'tell  Stoon'- 

day,  meyn  Hayr.    Eng.  In  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  sir.) 
Qu.— /<?<  dies  der  Zug  nach  Dijon?    {Pm.  Ist  deess  dayr  Tsoogh  nahg 

Dijon  ?    Eng.  Is  this  the  train  for  Dijon  ?) 
Ans.- JV«H,  mein  Herr ;  der  Zug  geht  zehn  Minvten  sjxiter.    {Pro.  Ncjni, 

meyn  Hayr,  dayr  Tsoohg  gayt  tsayn  Min-oo'ten  spay'tcr.    Eng.  No, 

sir,  that  train  goes  ten  minutes  later.) 
(^v.—Ist  das  der  Zug?    {Pro.  Ist  dah?  dayr  Tsoohg?    Eng.  Is  that  the 

train  ?) 
Ans.— /a,  mein,  Herr;  der  Zug  zur  Rechten.    {Pro.  Yah,  meyn  Hayr ;  dayr 

Tsoohg  tsoor  Rech'ten.    Eng.  Yes,  sir ;  the  train  on  the  right.) 
(^v.—  Wechseln  wir  die  Wagen  an  der  ruichsten  Station?    {Pro.  Vek'scln 


316  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

veer  dee  Vah'gen  ahn  clayr  nayk'sten  Staht-zyon' ?     Eng.   Do  we 
change  at  the  next  station?) 
Anb. — Nein,  mein  Herr;  der  erste  Wechsel  ist  in  BeUegarde.    {Pro.  Neyn, 
meyn  Hayr;  dayr  ayrs'ty  Vek'sel  ist  in  Bellegarde.     Eng.  No,  sir; 
the  first  change  is  at  Bellegarde.) 

\_Warnmgs  and  Demands.] 

GuABD,  OR  PoRTEB. — Hdt  der  Herr  rvoch  tnehr  Gepdck  ?    {,P)V.  Haht  dayr 

Hayr  noch  mayr  Gay-peck'  ?    Eng.  Has  the  gentleman  any  more  bag- 
gage ?) 
Tbaveli.eb. — Nein,  mein  Herr ;  es  ist  aUes  in  der  Kutsche.    (Pro.  Neyn, 

meyn  Hayr ;  es  ist  ahl'less  in  dayr  Coot'shay.    Eng.    No,  sir ;  it  is  all 

in  the  carriage.) 
QvjLRD.—Meine  Herren  und  Bamen.,  Ihre  Billete!     (Pro.  Jley'ny  Haym 

oont  Dah'men,  Ee'ray  Bill-yet'tay  !    Eng.  Gentlemen  and  ladies,  your 

tickets  ?) 
GviiXD.—Steigen  Sie  ein.  meine  Herren!   {P)-o.  Stey'gen  Zee  eyn,  mey'ny 

Haym  1    Eng.  Take  your  carriages,  gentlemen  !) 
Guard. — Steigen  Sie  gefaUigst  schnell  ein.,  meine  Herren!    (Pro.  Stey'gen 

Zee  ge-fel'Iihgst  shneU  eyn,  mey'ny  Hayrn  1     Eng.  Please  to  take 

your  carriages  quickly,  gentlemen  !) 
Gvi^T).—  Wechseln  Sie  die  Wagen,  meine  Herren!    (Pro.  Vek'seln  Zee  dee 

Vah'gen,  mey'ne  Haym !    Eng.  Change  carriages,  gentlemen  !) 

Taking  Carriages  and  RUling. 

Tbavelleb  (to  cabman).— Sind  Sie  unbeschaftigt  ?  (Pro.  Zint  Zee  oon- 
bay-sheftihgt  ?    Eng.  Are  you  disengaged  ?) 

Cabman. — Nein,  mein  Herr,  ich  warte  aitf  einen  anderen  Herrn.  {Pro. 
Neyn,  meyn  Hayr,  icb  vahr'tay  owf  ey'nen  ahn'der'n  Haym.  Eng.  No, 
sir,  I  am  waiting  for  another  gentleman.) 

Cabman.— Ja,  mein  Herr,  ich  habe  nicfUs  zu  thun.  (Piv.  Yah,  meyn  Hayr, 
ich  hah'bay  nichts  tsoo  toon.    Eng.  Yes,  sir,  I  am  disengaged.) 

Teav. — Geben  Sie  mir  Ihre  Karle.  (Pro.  Gay 'ben  Zee  meer  Ee'ray  Cahr'- 
tay.    Eng.  Give  me  your  card — i.  e.,  the  card  of  prices.) 

Tbav. — Ich  miethe  die  Kutsche  fur  den  ganzen  Weg  welcJien  ich  zurilckzu- 
legen  habe.  (Pro.  Ich  mee'tay  dee  Coot'shay  fenr  dayn  gabn'tsen  Vehg 
vel'chen  ich  tsoo-rcuk'tsoo-lay'gen  hah'bay.  Eng.  I  engage  the  car- 
riage for  the  whole  joute  I  have  to  go.) 

Tbav.— ic7t  miethe  die  Kutsche  stundenweise.  (Pro.  Ich  mee'tay  dee  Coot'- 
shay stoon'den-vey-zay.    Eng.  I  engage  yon  by  the  hour.) 

Cabman.  —  Wohin,  msin  Herr?  (Pro.  Vo-hin',  meyn  Hayr?  Eng. 
Whereto,  sir  ?) 

TvLKy.—Zum  grossen  Gasthof ;  or,  zur  Friedrich  Strasse,  mnnero  acht  und 
funfzig.      (Pro.   Tsoom  gros'sen   Gahst-hof;    or,   tsoor   Freed'rich 


A   FEW  USEFUL  PHRASES.-  317 

Straha'say,  noo'may-ro  ahclit  ooiit  feimf-tsilig.  Eng.  To  the  large 
hotel;  or,  to  flfty-eight  Frederick  Street.) 

HuKY.—Fahren  Sle!    (Pro.  Fali'ren  Zee  !    Eng.  Go  on\) 

T-R^y.—Schnelkr!    {Pro.  Shnerierl    Eng.  Faster!) 

TnkY.—NicM  so  schnell,  fahrt  langsanur!  {Pro.  Nicht  zo  sliuell,  fahrt 
lahng'sah-mer !    Eng.  Not  so  fast,  drive  more  slowly  !) 

Tkav.  (When  getting  out  of  the  cab  to  have  it  \\a\X.)—Warten  Sie  hier  ;  ich 
homme  gkich  tcieder.  {Pro.  Vahr'tcn  Zee  heer ;  Ich  kom'may  gleych 
vee'der.    Eng.  Wait  here ;  I  shall  return  immediately.) 

Cabsian. — Mein  Geld,  ttiein  Ilerr !  {Pro.  Meyii  Gelt,  meyn  Hayr  !  Eng. 
My  money,  sir  I) 

Tbav. — Da  id  e$  !    {Pro.  Dali  ist  ess  !    Eng.  Here  it  is !) 

Cabman. — Noch  mehr,  mein  Herr — das  Trinkgeld!  (Pro.  Noch  mayr,  meyn 
Ilayr^dahs  Trink-gelt !    Eng.  More,  sir — the  drink-money  !) 

Tbav. — Ich  kann  vnmdglich  mehr  bezahlen.  (Pro.  Ich  kahn  oon-muhg'- 
lich  mayr  bay-tsah'leu.    Eng.  I  cannot  possibly  pay  more.) 

TRAV.—IIctlt,  Kutscher!  {Pro.  Hahlt,  Coot'sher!  Eng.  Stop,  coach- 
man!) 

Eating  and  Drinlchig. 

Orders  to  Waiters.— .ffe/?«er,  bedienen  Sie  mich.  {Pro.  Kell'ner,  bay- 
dee'nen  Zee  mich.  Eng.  Waiter,  attend  on  me.)  Ich  ivill  eii  Mittag 
essen.  {Pro.  Ich  vill  tsoo  Mit-tahg  es'sen.  Eng.  I  want  some  dinner.) 
Geben  Sie  mir  Suppe  a  la  Julienne.  (Pro.  Gay'ben  Zee  meer  Zoop'pay 
ah  lah  Sheii-lee-en.  Eng.  Give  me  some  soup  a  la  Julienne.)  Gerostetes 
Bindfieisch  vollig  gar.  {Pro.  Gay-rus'tay-tes  Rint'fleysh  ful-Iihg  gahr. 
Eng.  Some  roast  beef  well  done.)  Gerostetes  Rindfleischhalb  gar.  {Pro. 
Gay-rus'tay-tes  Rint-fleysh  hahlp  gahr.  Eng.  Some  rare  roast  beef.)  Ge- 
rdststes  Schweinejleisch.  {Pro.  Gay-rus'tay-tes  Shvey'  nay-fleysh,  Eng. 
Some  roast  pork.)  Brod.  {Pro.  Broht.  Eng.  Bread.)  Noch  ein  ivenig 
Butler.  {Pro.  Noch  eyn  vay'nihg  boot'ter.  Eng.  A  little  more  but- 
ter.) Eine  Tasse  Kaffee.  {Pro.  Ey'nay  Tahs'say  Califfay.  Eng.  A 
cup  of  coffee.)  Ein  Glas  Wasser.  (Pro.  Eyn  Glahs  Vahs'ser.  Eng. 
A  glass  of  water.)  Ein  Glas  Eiswasser.  {Pro.  Eyn  Glahs  ice-vahs'ser. 
Eng.  A  glass  of  icawater.)  Kartoffeln.  {Piv.  Cahr-tof'f In.  Eng. 
Some  potatoes.)  Eine  Flascke  Bothwein.  (Pro.  Ey'nay  Flah'shay 
Roht-veyn.  Eng.  A  bottle  of  red  wine.)  Eins  halbe  Flasche  Weiss- 
wein.  {Pro.  Ey'nay  hahl'bay  Flah'shay  Veyss-veyn.  Eng.  A  half- 
bottle  of  white  wine.)  Bringen  Sie  mir  einen  reinen  Tdler.  {Pro. 
Bring'en  Zee  meer  ey'nen  rey'nen  Tel'ler.  Eng.  Bring  me  a  clean 
plate.)  Ein  Huhnerfricassee.  {Pro.  Eyn  Heuh'ner-free-kahs-say.' 
Eng.  A  chicken  fricassee.)  Zicei  Kalbscarbonailen..  (Pro.  Tsvy 
Kahlps-cahr-boh-nah'den.  Eng.  Two  veal  cutlets.)  Gekochtes  Ildm- 
meineisch.  {Pro.  Gay-koch'tes  Hahm'mel-fleysch.  Eng.  Some  boiled 
mutton.)     Zwei  gebratene  Eier.     {Pro.   Tsvy  gay-brah'fuay  Ey'er. 


318  SHOETTEIP   GUIDE. 

Eng.  Two  fried  eggs.)  Gekochten  Fiscli.  {Pro.  Gay-koch'ten  Fish. 
Eng.  Some  boiled  fish.)  Kuchen.  (Pro.  Koo'chen.  Eng.  Cake.) 
Eine  Obst  Pastete.  {Pro.  Ey'nay  Opst  Pahs-tay'tay.  Eitg.  A  fniit 
pie.)  Zucker.  {Pro.  TBOok'ker.  Eng.  Sugar.)  Das  Salz.  {Pro. 
Dahs  Salilts.  Eng.  The  salt.)  Einen  anderen  Loffel.  {Pro.  Ey'nen 
ahn'der'n  Luffl.  Eng.  Another  spoon.)  Einen  Teller,  ein  Messer, 
ein  Gabd,  nnd  eine  Sei-viette.  {Pro.  Ey'nen  Tel'Ier,  cyn  Mes'ser,  ey-nay 
Gah'b'l,  oont  ey'nay  Zer-vyet'tay.  Eng.  A  plate,  knife,  fork,  and 
napkin.)  Ich  bitte  um  die  Rechmtng.  {Pro.  Ich  bit'tay  oom  dee  Eech'- 
noong.    Eng.  The  bill,  if  you  please.) 

Chreetings. 

GutenMorgen,meinHerr.  (Pra.  Goo'ten  Mor-gen, nieyn  Hayr.  .EVi^.  Good- 
moming,  sir.)  Gvten  Abend ;  gute  NacM.  {Pro.  Goo'teu  Ah'bent ; 
goo'tay  Nahcht.  Eng.  Good-evening ;  good-night.)  Adieu !  {Pro. 
Ah-dyu'!  Eng.  Gk)od-bye!)  Avf  Vtiedersehn.  {Pro.  Owf  Vee'der- 
zayn.  Eng.  Farewell,  till  we  meet  again.)  Ich  habe  die  Ehre  Sie  zii 
begriissen.  {Pro.  Ich  hab'bay  dee  Ay'ray  Zee  tsoo  bay-greus'seii. 
Eng.  I  have  the  honor  to  salute  yon.)  Erlmiben  Sie  mir  mich  zu  be- 
vrlauben.  {Pro.  Ajr-low'ben  Zee  meer  mich  tsooh  bay-oor'low-ben. 
Eng.  Permit  me  to  take  leave  of  you.)  Ich  danhe  Ihnen,  Madam. 
{P)V.  Ich  dahnk'ay  Ee'nen,  Mah-dahm'.  Eng.  Thank  yon,  Madam.) 
Jch  bedanke  mich  tausendmal,  mein  Frdulein.  {Pro.  Ich  bay-dahnk'ay 
mich  tow-zent-mahl,  meyn  Froy'leyn.  Eng.  A  thousand  thanks, 
miss.) 

Inquiries,  etc. 

Verzeihm  Sie,  mein  Herr !  {Pro.  Fair-tsey'en  Zee,  meyn  Hayr !  Eng. 
Pardon,  sir  I  [always  used  in  accosting  a  stranger,  or  apologizing  for 
any  accident.])  WoUen  Sie  mir  tcohl  den  Weg  zu  dieter  Addregse  nacJi- 
tveisen  ?  {Pro.  Vollen  Zee  meer  vohl  daynVehg  tsoo  dee'zer  Ad-drcs'- 
eay  nahch-vey'zen  ?  Eng.  Will  yon  be  kind  enough  to  show  me  the 
way  to  that  address?)  In  welcher  Gegend  ist  die  Domkirchef  {Pio. 
In  vel'cher  Gay 'gent  ist  dee  Dohm-keer'chay  ?  Eng.  In  what  direc- 
tion is  the  cathedral  ?)  Wie  heisst  diese  Strange  ?  {Pro.  Vee  heyst  dee'- 
zay  Strahs'say  ?  Eng.  What  is  the  name  of  this  street  5)  Was  fur  ein 
EauB  i$t  dag?  {Pro.  Vahs  feur  eyn  howss  ist  dahs?  Eng.  What  house 
is  that?)  Ist  das  gegenHberliegende  Raus  ein  Modeivaarenlager ? 
{Pro.  let  dahs  gay'gen-eu'ber-lee'gen-day  Howes  eyn  Moh'day-wah'- 
ren-lah'ger?  En-g.  Is  the  house  opposite  a  millinery  warehouse?) 
Avf  tcdcher  Seite  Uegt  die.  Borge—ziir  liechten  Oder  zur  Linhen?  {Pro. 
Owf  vel-cher  Zey'tay  leehgt  dee  Bnr'zay;  tsoor  Eech'ten  oh'dertsoor 
Link-en  ?  Eng.  On  which  side  is  the  Bourse— to  the  right  or  the  left  ?) 
Ich  mochte  gem  KMder  kaiifen  ;  was  ist  der  Preis  f  {Pro.  Ich  meuch'- 
tay  gem  Kley'derkow'fen  ;  vahs  ist  dayr  Preyss  ?    Eng.  I  wish  to  buy 


A   FEW  USEFUL  PIIEASES.  319 

some  clothes ;  what  is  the  price?)    Dai  ist  zu  tJieuer.    (Pro.  Dahs  ist 
tsob  toy'er.    Eiir/.  That  is  too  clear.) 

[Folding  an  Interpreter  or  Guide.] 

Ich  brauche  eineii  Dolinetscher.  {Pro.  Ich  brow'cliay  ey'nen  DoU-met'sher. 
Eng.  I  want  an  interpreter  or  guide.)  Ich  brauche  eiiien  Bedienlea 
um  mir  die  interessanten  Pldtze  nachzuicemn.  (Pro.  Icli  brow'chay 
ey'nen  Bay-deen'tcn,  ooin  nicer  dee  in-tay-rcs-salin'len  Plet'tsay  nahch- 
tsoo-vey'zen.  Eag.  I  require  a  servant  to  point  out  to  me  the  places 
of  interest.)  Ich  will  einen  Dimcr  hahen  xvelcher  Eiigli^ch  t^pricht.  (Pro. 
Ich  vill  ey'nen  Dee'ner  hah'ben  vel'cher  Ayng'Iish  spricht.  Eng.  I  re- 
quire a  valet  who  speaks  English.)  M  .Jemand  hier  ivelcher  Franzo- 
sisch  spricht?  (Pro.  Ist  Yay'mahnt  heer  vel'cher  Frahn-tseu-zish 
spricht  ?  Eng.  Is  there  any  one  here  who  speaks  French  ?)  Wie  viel 
fordern  Sie  mich  heute  zu  begleiten  ?  (Pro.  Vee  feel  for'dem  Zee  mich 
hoy'tay  tsoo  bay-gley'ten  ?  Eng.  What  do  you  ask  to  accompany  me 
to-day  ?) 

Entering,  Finding  Persons,  etc. 

Qu.  (Knocking  at  a  door.)— iJa?/  ich  eirdreten  ?  or,  Erlauhen  i?ie  dass  ich 
eirdreten  darf?  (Pro.  Dahrf  ich  eyn-tray'tcu  ?  or,  Er-low'ben  Zee 
dabs  ich  eyn-tray'ten  dahrf?  Eng.  May  I  come  in  ?  or,  will  you  per- 
mit me  to  enter?)  Ans.  Treten  Sie  ein!  or,  gewm!  (Pro.  Tray 'ten 
Zee  eyn  ;  or,  gay-viss  !  Eng.  Come  in  !  or,  certainly  !)  Qu.  M  Htrr 
H.  zu  Hause?  (Pro.  Ist  Hayr  H.  tsoo  How'zay.  Eng.  Is  Mr.  H.  at 
home  ?)  Ans.  </a,  mein  Ilerr.,  Ilerr  H.  ist  in  seinem  Zimmer.  (Pro.  Yah, 
meyn  Ilayr,  Hayr  H.  ist  in  zey'nem  Tsim'mer.  Eng.  Yes,  sir,  Mr.  H. 
is  in  bis  room.)  Qu.  Kann  ich  ihnsehen  ?  (Pro.  Kahn  ich  een  zayh'n  ? 
Eng.  Can  I  see  him  ?)    Fragen  Sie  ihn  oh  er  mich  empfangen  will  ? 

^  (Pro.  Frah'gen  Zee  een  op  ayr  mich  emp-fahn<:;'en  vill.  Eng.  Ask 
him  whether  he  will  see  me?)  Ans.  Nein,  mein  Heii;  Ilerr  II.  ist 
nicht  zu  Hause.  (Pro.  Neyn,  meyn  Hayr,  Hayr  H.  ist  nicht  tsoo 
How'zay.  Eng.  No,  sir,  Mr.  II.  is  not  at  home.)  Qu.  Tr««?i  wird  er 
erioartet  f  (Pro.  Vahn  virt  ayr  er-vahr'tet  ?  Eng.  When  do  yon 
expect  him  ?)  Oeben  Sie  ihm  meine  Karte.  (Pro.  Gay'bcn  Zee  eem 
mey'nay  Cahr'tay.    Eng.  Give  him  my  card.) 

Language, 

Sprech£n  Sie  Deutsch  ?  (Pro.  Spre'chen  Zee  Doytsh  ?  Eng.  Do  you  speak 
German?)  Sprechen  Sie  Englisch?  (Pro.  Spre'chen  Zee  Ayng'Iish  ? 
Eng.  Do  you  speak  English  ?)  Verdehen  Sie  mich  ?  (Pro.  Fer-stay'en 
Zee  mich?  Eng.  Do  you  understand  me?)  Ich  terstehe  Sie  sehr  gut. 
(Pro.   Ich  fer-stay'ay  Zee  zayr  goot.     Eng.   I  understand  you  ^ery 


320  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

well.)  Ich  versUhe  Sie  nicht.  (Pro.  Ich  fer-stay'ay  Zee  niclit.  Eng. 
I  do  not  understand  you.)  Wte  Tieisst  das  ?  (Pro.  Yea  heysst  dahs  ? 
Eng.  What  is  this  called  ?)  Wkderholen  Sie  das.,  wenn  ich  bitten  darf. 
(Vee'dayr-hoh'len  Zee  dahs,  ven  ich  bit'ten  dahrf.  Eng.  Repeat  that, 
if  you  please.)  Ich  spreche  nxtrwenig  Deutsch;  seien  Sie  so  gut  and 
sprechen  Sie  langsamer.  (Pro.  Ich  spre'chay  noor  vay'nihg  Doytsh ; 
zey'en  Zee  zoh  goot  oont  spre'chen  Zee  lahng'sah-mer.  Eng.  I  speak 
hut  little  German  ;  be  so  kind  as  to  speak  more  slowly.) 

In  Want. 

Ich  bin  sehr  arm!  Geben,  Sie  mir  ein  Alinosen,  um  GoiteswUlen .'  (Pro. 
Ich  bin  zayr  abrm !  GayTien  Zee  meer  eyn  Ahl'mo-zen,  oom  Gtot'tes- 
villen !  Eng.  I  am  very  poor,  give  me  some  charity  for  the  love  of 
God !)  Or,  Um  der  heiligen  Jungfrau  tciUen.  (Pro.  Oom  dayr  hey'lee- 
gen  Yoong'frow  vil'len.  Eng.  For  the  sake  of  the  Blessed  Virgin.) 
Ich  bin  sehr  hungrig.  (Piv.  Ich  bin  zayr  hoong'rihg.  Eng.  I  am  very 
hungry.)  Mir  ist  sehr  kalt.  (Pro.  Meer  ist  zayr  kahlt.  Eng.  I  am 
very  cold.)  Ich  bin  sehr  durstig.  (Pro.  Ich  bin  zayr  doors'-tihg. 
Eng.  I  am  very  thirsty.)  Ich  habe  kein  Geld.  (Pro.  Ich  hah'-bay  keyn 
Gelt.    Eng.  I  have  no  money.) 

In  Sudden  Sickness  or  Accident. 

Ich  bin  kranJc.  (Pro.  Ich  bin  krahnk.  Eng.  I  am  sick.)  Ich  bin  seJir 
krank.  (Pro.  Ich  bin  zayr  krahnk.  Eng.  I  am  very  sick.)  Ich  habe 
Kopfweh.  (Pro.  Ich  hah'bay  Kopf-vay.  Eng.  I  have  a  headache.) 
Ich  habe  mir  das  Bein — den  Arm  zerbrochen.  (Pro.  Ich  hah'bay  meer 
dahs  Beyn — dayn  Ahrm  tser-broch'eu.  Eng.  I  have  broken  my  leg — 
my  arm.)  Ich  bitte  Sie,  fuhren  Sie  mich  gleich  zu  einem  Arzt.  (Pro. 
Ich  bit'tay  Zee,  fen'ren  Zee  mich  gleych  tsoo  ey'nem  Ahrtst.  Eng.  I  beg 
you  to  take  me  immediately  to  a  physician.)  Fuhren  Sie  mich  zu 
einem  englischenDoktor.  (Pro.  Fen'ren  Zee  mich  tsoo  ey'nem  ayng'lish- 
cn  Doc-tor.    Eng.  Take  me  to  an  English  doctor.) 


XXII. 

EUEOPEAN  MONEY  IX  AMEKICAN  COIN. 

[OxLY  two  kinds  of  money  (apart  from  Bank  of 
England  notes,  drafts,  and  letters  of  credit)  are  likely 
to  be  carried  over  to  Enrope  by  Americans.  These 
are  English  and  French  gold — English  preferable, 
except  on  going  direct  to  France,  and  then  quite  as 
convenient.  And  it  so  happens  that  the  English  and 
French,  extensively  used  all  over  Europe  (especially 
the  French,  on  the  Continent),  are  the  only  ones  of 
the  value  of  which  any  correct  idea  can  be  briefly 
given,  though  an  attempt  will  be  made  to  indicate 
the  worth,  in  dollars  and  cents  (gold)  of  the  more 
common  kinds  of  German,  Italian,  etc.  American 
money — even  American  gold — it  is  scarcely  neces- 
sary to  say,  is  not  familiarly  known  in  Europe.] 

English. 

Sovereign  (gold) $4  8.3 

Guinea  (calculation— no  coin) 5  07 

Half-Sovereign  (gold) 2  41 

Crown  (silver) 1  20 

Half-Crown  (silver) 60 

Florin  (silver— two  shillings) 46 

Shilling  (silver) 23 

Sixpence  (silver) 11^- 

Fourpence  (silver) 7| 

Penny  (copper) If 

Half-penny  (copper) I 

KoTE.— English  Bank  of  England  notes  are  equally  current  with  English 
gold,  in  Prance  and  over  much  of  the  Continent. 


322  SHORT-TEIP   GUIDE. 

French. 

Double  Napoleon  (gold) $7  72 

Napoleon  (gold) 3  86 

Half-Napoleon  (gold) 1  93 

Five  Francs  (gold  or  silver) 93 

Franc  (silver) 19 

Half-Franc  (silver) 9^ 

Twenty-Centime  piece  (base) 3^ 

Two  Sous  (copper) 2 

Sou  (copper) 1 

Note.— The  French  franc  is  divided  into  imaginary  hundredths,  as  the 
American  dollar  into  cents,  and  all  smaller  calculations  are  made  in  these 
hundredths,  or  "  centimes,"  though  there  is  no  coin  to  represent  the  unit. 
The  half-franc  is  of  course  fifty  centimes ;  the  twenty-centime  piece  is  one- 
fifth  of  a  franc;  and  the  sou  is  always  five  centimes ;  and  twenty  sons 
make  the  franc. 

Swiss. 

Same  in  value,  and  nearly  same  in  appearance,  as  the  French— Napole- 
ons, francs,  sous,  centimes ;  but  can  be  readily  distinguished  from  the 
French  coins  by  the  Swiss  cross  and  word  "Helvetia,"  which  they  bear. 


Belgian. 


Francs  and  centimes— same  in  value  and  reckoning  as  in  France  and 
Switzerland. 

Germmi. 

Note. — There  is  such  an  '■  infinite  variety  "  and  abominable  mixture  and 
uncertainty  in  the  German  money,  that  Tom  Hood  had  no  way  to  get  out 
of  the  trouble,  as  he  crossed  from  one  petty  state  to  another,  except 
always  to  throw  away  his  change.  The  tourist  cannot  be  expected  to 
practise  that  costly  amusement,  but  must  experience  his  "  little  difficulty." 
No  more  can  be  done,  here,  practically,  than  to  mention  a  few  values,  with 
the  countries  where  the  coins  originate : 

Five  Gulden- gold  (Baden) $2  06 

Crown— sUver               "      110 

Florin-    "                    "      40 

Twenty  Kreutzer- base  (Baden) 10 

Ten  Kreutzer —           •'          "      05 

Double  Frederick— gold  (Prussia) 8  00 

Frederick— gold                     "        4  00 

Ten  Guilders— gold  (Central  Germany) 4  00 

Five  Guilders     "                  "                  2  00 

,          Guilder— sUver                      "                  40 

Guilder       "      (Holland) Sti 

Double  Ducat— gold  (Gennany) 4  56 


EUROPEAN'  AfONEY.  323 


Ducat— gold  (Gennany) $2  28 

TLalcr— silver  (Saxony) 1  00 

"           ■■     (Pruesia) 70 

Rix  Dollar— silver  (Austria  and  Tyrol) 1  00 

Florin              '•                     "                 50 

Ten  Thalers— gold  (Brunswick) 8  00 

"                  ■•     (Hanover) 8  00 

Thaler — silver  (Brunswick  or  Hanover) 80 

Italian. 

Twenty  Lira— gold  (Sardinia) 3  80 

Ten  Lira            '•            " 190 

Five  Lira— silver            "       95 

Lira                "               "       19 

Half-Lira        "               "       9\ 

Quarter-Lira— base        "       4J 

Lira— silver  (Venice— larger  in  proportion) 17 

Sequin— gold  (Tuscany) 2  .30 

Scudo— gold  or  silver  (Tuscany) 1  10 

Paul— silver  (Tuscany — larger  and  smaller  in  proportion)       11 

Crazia — copper     "      li 

Quatrino     "         ''      J 

Ten  Scudi— gold  (Rome) 10  00 

Scudo — silver  or  gold  (Rome) 1  00 

Paul— silver                      "      10 

Grosso — base                   "      5 

Baioque — copper             "      1 

Half-Baioque— copper      "      i 

Ducato— silver  (Naples) 81 

Piastra        "  "       a5 

Carliua        "          "       8} 

Grano— copper       "       a 

Turkish. 

Twenty  Piastres 1  00 

Piastre 5 

Five  Paras Of 

28 


ALPHABETICAL  PLACE-AND-ROUTE 

IE"DEX. 


Alexandria  to  Marseilles,  31. 
Arran  a^le  of),  70. 
Ailsa  Craiff,  70. 
'Aldemey  (Island),  T-S. 
Ayr,  99. 

Ardcheanocroctian,  104. 
Aberfoil  (Clachan  of),  101. 
Abbotsford,  117. 

"      route  to  from  Edinburgh,  117. 
Ambleside,  138. 
Alnwick  Castle,  157. 
Arques  (Castle),  162. 
Amberieux,  1S4. 
Aar  (river).  197. 
Alpnach,  200. 
Aix-la-ChapeUe,  220. 
Antwerp,  22.3. 
Augsburg,  227. 
Alps,  Across  the : 

Mont  Cenis  Route,  232. 

St.  Bernard  Route,  234. 

St.  Gotthard  Route,  233. 

Simplon  Route,  241. 
Aosta,  2.36. 
Altorf,  2.37. 
Andermatt,  239. 
Arona,  242. 
Athens,  289. 

'•    to  Constantinople,  290. 
Alexandria,  294. 

"       to  Cairo,  295. 

"       down  the  Mediterranean  to 
Malta,  296. 

B 

Bombay  to  Snez  and  Alexandria,  31. 

Ballycotton  (light),  63. 

Bell  Buov  (Liverpool),  65. 

Beachv  flead,  68. 

Bute  ("Island),  71. 

Brodick,  71. 

Brest,  72. 

Blarney  Castle,  etc.,  84. 

Bog  of  Allen  (The),  89. 

Boyne  Water,  93. 


Belfast,  93. 

"       to  Giant's  Causeway,  94. 
Ballycastle,  94. 
Burns  Neighborhood,  100. 
Balloch,  101. 
Ben  Lomond,  101. 

"  Venn,  103. 

"  A'an,  103. 

"  Ledi,  105. 
Bannockbum,  106. 
Ben  Nevis,  109. 
Berwick,  117, 157. 
Bowness,  137. 
Birmingham.  142. 
Brighton,  152. 

British  Channel  (Crossings),  159. 
Bourg,  184. 
Bellegarde,  185. 
Berne,  197. 

"    to  Interlaken,  197. 
Bernese  Oberlaud,  197. 
Brienz,  200. 
Brnnig  Pass,  200. 
Bale,''202. 

"    to  Strasbourg.  204. 
Baden-Baden.  206. 

"  to  Heidelbeig  and  down 

the  Rhine,  210. 
Black  Forest  (The),  208. 
Brachsal,  211. 
Bingen,  215. 
Bonn,  218. 
Brussels,  222. 

'•       to  Antwerp,  223. 
Bruges,  224. 
Bregenz,  226. 
Beblin,  229. 

"    to  Hamburg,  etc.,  229. 
Bellinzona,  240. 
Brieg,  241. 
Brescia,  251. 
Bologna,  257. 
Bayonne,  278. 
Biarritz,  278. 
Burgos,  279. 
Beirut,  292. 
Baalbec,  292. 


INDEX. 


32( 


c 

Cape  Eace,  58. 
Chebuctoo  Head  (N.  S.),  59. 
Cape  Clear,  61. 
Crookhaven,  62. 
Cove  of  Cork,  63. 
Conigsbeg  (light),  63. 
Cowes,  67. 
Canlire  (Mull  of),  70. 
Cumbroe  Islands,  71. 
Cape  La  Hogue,  73. 
Cherboursr,  73. 
Cape  Levi,  73. 

"    Barfleur,  73. 

"    La  Hague,  73. 

"    La  Heve,  73. 
Cork,  82. 

"    to  Killamey,  &4, 
Clovne.  84. 
CliarleviUe,  89. 
Carrickfergua,  94. 
Cushendall,  94. 
Coleraine,  95. 
Coilantogle  Ford,  105. 
Callandar,  105. 
Cambuskenneth  Abbey,  107. 
Crinan  Canal,  108. 
Crianlarich,  109. 
Caledonian  Canal,  109. 
Craigmillar  Castle,  117. 
Chester,  121. 
Crewe,  123. 
Coventry,  143. 
Charlecote  Hall,  148. 
Cheltenham,  152. 
Culoz,  185. 
Chillon  (Castle),  188. 
Chamounix  (Excursion  to),  190. 
Colmar,  204. 
Carlsruhe,  211. 
Coblentz,  216. 
Cologne,  219. 

"       to  Paris,  Route  L,  219. 
"       to  Channel,  Route  II.,  221. 
Charleroi,  221. 
Compeigne,  221. 
Civita  Vecchia,  262. 
Comiche  Road  (The),  275. 
Cordova,  283. 
Cadiz,  284. 
Constantinople,  290. 

"  to  Smyrna,  291. 

Caieo,  295. 

"    Excursion  to  Pyramids,  Mem- 
phis, etc.,  295. 


D 


Dursey  Island,  6C 
Daunt' s  Rock,  62 


Dungcness,  68. 
Dover,  68. 
Downs  (The),  68. 
Deal,  69. 
Dunoon,  72. 
Dublin,  89. 

"    to  Holyhead,  92. 

"    to  Belfast,  93. 

"    Giants'  Causeway,  93. 
Dargle  (river),  92. 
Drogheda,  93. 
Dundalk,  93. 
Doon  (river),  100. 
Dumbarton  Castle,  101. 
Dunblane,  105. 
Doune  Castle,  107. 
Dalkeith  (Palace),  116. 
Dalhousie  Castle,  117. 
Dryburgh  Abbey,  117. 
Dee  (river),  121. 
Doncaster,  156. 
Dunbar,  158. 
Dover  to  Calais,  159. 
Dieppe,  162. 
Dijon,  184. 

Drachenfels  (The).  217. 
Dresden,  228. 

"  to  Berlin,  229. 
Domo  d'Ossola,  242. 
Damascus,  292. 

"       to  Jerusalem,  293. 
Dead  Sea,  293. 


£ 


Eddystone  Lighthouse,  66. 
Edinburgh,  110. 

"    Castle,  114. 

"    Excursions  from,  116. 

"    to  Berwick  and  London,  117. 
Eaton  Hall,  123. 

England  to  Scotland  (routes),  154. 
Ehrenbreitstein,  216. 


Fastnet  Rock,  61. 
Folkestone,  68. 
Firth  of  Clyde,  71. 
Fingal'8  Cave,  108. 
Furuess  Abbey,  140. 
Folkestone  to  Boulogne,  159. 
Fontainebleu,  183. 
Freybourg,  196. 
Fbankfokt-on-the-Maine,  212. 

"       to  Wiesbaden  and  May- 
ence,  213. 
Fluellen,  2.38. 
Ferrara,  257. 
Flobence,  259. 


320 


IXDEX. 


Flobence,    excnreion    to   Vallom- 

brosa,  261. 
Fiesole,  261. 


G 

Great  Onne's  Head,  64. 
Gogport,  67. 
Glengall  Head,  70. 
Greebock,  72. 
Guemeey  ( Island),  73. 
Giants'  Causeway  (The),  94. 
"       to  Londonderry,  95. 
Glasgow,  97. 

to  Ayr,  99. 
"        to  Edinburgh,  by  K^^ 
theTrossache,    f^"^' 
'"         to  Edinburgh,  by  1 

Oban.  Caledo-  L^™ 
nian  Canal  and  ( 
Inverness,        J 
Glenflnlas?,  104. 
Grampians,  109. 
Grasmere.  1.38. 
Guy's  Cliflf.  143. 
Geneva,  185. 

"        to  Chamounix,  190. 
"        to  Berne,  etc.,  195. 
Grindelwald  (Glaciers),  198. 
Geissbach  (F^Hs).  199. 
Ghent,  224. 
Genoa,  274. 

"       to  Jlarseilles.  273. 
Granada,  2S5. 

"       Alhambra.  285. 
"      to  M  alaga  &  Marseilles,  287. 
Gibraltar  (Straits),  284. 


H 

Hong  Kong  to  Bombay,  .31. 
Halifax  Harbor,  59. 
Hook  Tower  (Light),  C3. 
Holyhead,  64. 
Holy  Isle,  71. 
Havre,  73. 
Howth  (Hill  of).  89. 
Hawthomden,  116. 
Hastings,  153. 
Heidelberg,  211. 

"  to  Frankfort,  212. 

Hamburg.  229. 
Herculaneum,  273. 


Isle  of  Wight,  153. 
Instrahull,  70. 
Innishowen  Head,  70. 


0,  L.- 


Inversnaid,  102. 

lona.  108. 

Inverness,  109. 

Inteklaken,  197. 

'•  to  Lucerne,  etc.,  200. 

Innspkuck,  226. 

"  to  Munich,  etc.,  227. 

Iran,  278. 

Isles    of   Greece    (Rhodes,") 

Patmos,  Samos.  Scio,  \,yan 
Mytilene,  Tenedos,  '■■^• 
Abydos,  etc.). 


Jersey  (Island),  73. 
Jungfrau  (The).  197. 
Jebusalem,  293. 

"  to  Jafla,  293. 

Jordan  (river),  293. 
Jaffa,  294. 
"     to  Alexandria,  291. 


K 

Kinsale  (Old  Head),  62. 
Kilbrauna  Sound.  70. 
Kyles  of  Bute,  71. 
Kinnoul  (.Mull  of),  70. 
Killamey  (Lakes,  etc.).  85. 

"        to  Dublin.  88. 
Kildare  (Curragh),  89. 
Kingstown,  89. 
Kew,  131. 
Kendal,  136. 
Kenilworth,  144. 

Castle,  144. 
Knssnacht,  201. 
Kehl,206. 


Le  Have  (Nova  Scotia),  59. 
Liverpool  (Nova  Scotia),  59. 
Lee  (river).  63. 
Lizard  Head.  66. 
Lamlash  (harbor),  71. 
Limerick  Junction,  89. 
Liffey  (river),  91. 
Lisbum.  93. 
Lame,  94. 

LONDONDEEBT,  95. 

"  to  Belfast,  96. 

Loch  Lomond,  101. 
Luss,  102. 
Loch  Arklett.  102. 

"    Katrine,  102. 

"    Achray.  104. 

"    Vennochar,  104. 


INDEX. 


327 


Lanrick  Mead,  104. 
Leith.lOT. 
Loch  Linnhe,  109. 
"     Lochy,  109, 
"     Ness,  109. 
LrvEEPOOL,  118. 

"       to  Cumberland  Lakes,  136. 

"       to  London,  12-3. 

"       to  Chester,  121. 

"       to   Shakspcare   Neighbor- 
hoods, 141. 

"        to  Birmingham.  141. 

"        to  Coventry,  141. 

"       to  Manchester   and    Shef- 
field, 150. 

"       to  Glasgow,  155. 

"       to  Edinourgh,  153. 

"       Docks,  119. 
London,  12.3. 

"       to  Paris,  155. 

"       to  Edinburgh,  155. 

"       Tower  of,  127. 

"       Excursions  from,  134. 
Lancaster,  136. 
Leamington,  149. 
Llandudno,  153. 
Lausanne,  195. 
Lauterbrunnen  (Fall),  198. 
Lake  of  Brienz,  199. 
Lucerne  (and  Lake).  200. 
to  the  Rhigi,  201. 

"       to  Bale,  202. 
Liege,  220. 
Lille,  225. 
Liddes,  234. 

Lake  of  the  Canton  Uri,  238. 
Lake  ilaggiore,  246. 
"     Como,  249. 
"    Garda,  251. 
Lucca,  261. 
Leghorn,  262. 
Lyons,  276. 

"     to  Geneva,  Paris,  etc.,  277. 


M 

Mizen  Head,  62. 

Mine  Head  (light),  63. 

Margate,  69,  153. 

Malta  Head,  70. 

Moville,  70. 

MaUow,  85. 

Mucross  Abhey,  87. 

Melrose  Abbey,  117. 

Manchester,  150. 

Marston  Moor,  156. 

Macon,  184. 

Mont  Blanc.  185. 186,  189,  190-195, 

Martigny,  191,  234. 

Mayence,  213. 

Munich  227. 


Mont  Cenis,  2.33. 

Tunnel,  233. 
Magadino,  246. 
MiL.\N,  246. 

"      Duomo,  247. 
Mantua,  253. 
Mabseilles,  275. 

to  Toulon,  Paris,  etc.,  276. 
Madrid,  280. 

'•       Excursion  to  Escorial,  282. 
"       to  Cordova,  28:3. 
Malaga,  285. 

"        to  Granada,  285. 
Memphis.  295. 
Malta,  296. 

'■      to  Marseilles,  296. 


N 


New  York  to  Panama,  30. 
Needles  (The),  67. 
North  Foreland  (The),  69. 
Nore  (The),  69. 
Naas,  89. 
Newry,  93. 

Newbattle  Abbey.  117. 
Newcastle-upon-Tyne,  157. 
Newhaven  to  Dieppe,  159. 
Newhaus,  197. 
Naraur,  221. 
Nuremberg,  227. 
No  vara,  246. 
Naples,  270. 

"       excursiion  to  Pompeii  and 
Herculaneum,  27-3. 

"       excursion  to  Vesuvius,  272. 

"        Bay  of,  272. 

"       to  Genoa,  274. 
Nice,  275. 
Nile  (river),  295. 


Oban,  108. 
Oxenholme,  136, 
Ostend,  225. 


Panama  to  San  Francisco,  30. 
Point  de  Galle,  31. 
Point  Lynas.  64. 
Portland  Bill,  67. 
Portsmouth,  67. 
Portarlington,  89. 
Portrush,  95. 
Paisley,  99. 
Preston,  136. 
Peterborough,  156. 


328 


INDEX. 


Pakis,  165. 

"     to  Geneva,  183. 
Pilatua  (Mont),  200. 
Pescbiera,  251. 
Padiia,  254. 
Pistoja,  258. 
Pisa,  261. 
Pompeii,  273. 
Pyramids  (The),  295. 


Qneenstown  (harbor),  62. 
Queenstown,  81. 


,   R 

Roche's  Point,  62. 

Ramsirate,  69,  153. 

Rathlfn  Island,  70. 

Eosslyn  (Castle),  116. 

Rugby,  149. 

Eydal  Mount,  139. 

Rhyl,  153. 

Rouen,  163. 

Rhone  (river  and  valley),  18-t. 

Romont,  196. 

Rhigl  (Thet,  201,  202. 

Rastadt,  211. 

Rhine  (Down  the),  214. 

Rolandseck,  217. 

Rome,  262. 

"     to  Naples,  etc.,  270. 


S 


San  Francisco   to  Yokohama   and 

HongKonp;.  31. 
Sambro  Head  (N.  S.),  69. 
Skelli"  Rocks,  60. 
Snowdon,  64. 
Skerries,  64. 
Scilly  Rocks,  66. 
St.  Agnes,  66. 
Start  Point,  67. 
St.  Alban's  Head,  67. 
Solent  (river),  67. 
Spithead,  67. 
Southampton,  68. 
St.  Catharine's,  68. 
South  Foreland  (The),  68. 
Sanda  Island,  70. 
Stronaclachar,  103. 
Stirling,  105. 

"       Castle,  105. 

"       Carse,  106. 
Staffa,  108. 
Stafford,  123. 


Shakspeare  Neighborhoods  of  War- 
wickshire, route  to,  140. 
Stratford-on-Avon,  147. 
Sheffield,  150. 
Scarborou2;h,  152. 
Shields,  157. 
Seine  (river),  166. 
St.  Cloud,  178. 
Sevres,  178. 
St.  Denis,  181. 
Sallanches,  195. 
Scherlingen-Thnn,  197. 

SXBA8B(ftjRG,  204. 

Cathedral.  204. 
"  to  Baden-Baden,  206. 

St.  Michel,  232. 
Susa,  233. 
St.  Remy,  234. 
St.  Bernard  Route,  234. 
"         Hospice,  2.35. 
St.  Gotthard  Route,  238. 
Hospice.  239. 
Simplon  Pass  and  Route,  241. 

"       Hospice,  242. 
Sion,  241. 
Seville,  2a3. 
Smyrna,  291. 

"       to  Beirut  (Syria),  292. 
Sphynx  (The),  295. 


T 

Tiiskar  Oigbt),  63. 
Tory  Island,  70. 
Tarbet,  102. 
Trossachs  (The),  103. 
Turk  (Brigg  of),  104. 
Tonnerre.  184. 
TuEiN,  244. 
Toulon,  276. 
Trieste,  288. 

"     to  Athens,  etc., 
Tangier,  285. 


U 


Ushant,  72. 
Unterseen,  197. 


Versailles,  178. 
Valley  of  the  Rhone,  184. 
Villeueuve,  191. 
Verona,  252. 

"       Excursion  to  Mantua,  253. 
Vicenza,  254. 
Venice,  254. 

"      to  Florence,  Rome,  etc.,  257. 


IXDEX. 


329 


Vesuvius  (Mt.),  S79. 
Valladolid,  280. 

W 


Wolverhampton,  142. 
Warwick,  146. 

Castle,  14G. 
Wcngern  Alp,  199. 
Weirgis.  202. 
Weisbadeii.  213. 
Waterloo  (rield  of),  222. 


Wicklow  Mountains,  6-1. 
Windsor  Castle,  1:30. 
Windermere  Lakes,  135. 

•'  route  to,  133.  Y 

to  Furness  Abbey,  139.    York,  1.50. 
Wigan,  136.  '  '       "•     Minster,  156. 


EEMINDEES   FOE  EUEOPEAN  EAMBLEES. 

pN  this  department,  in  subsequent  years  as  well  as  the  present,  nothing 
will  be  alluded  to  in  any  other  words  than  those  of  the  strictest  truth,— 
just  as  nothing  whatever  wiU  be  taken,  in  th^  "announcement"  depart- 
ment to  which  it  refers,  having  the  slightest  shade  of  impropriety  or  that 
does  not  commend  itself  to  the  best  judgment  of  travellers,  when  abroad, 
or  after  their  return  to  America.  It  is  the  intention  of  the  author  and  pub- 
lishers, in  later  editions,  to  call  attention  to  such  hotels  and  mercantile 
bouses  in  the  leadtng  European  cities  and  at  the  great  European  watering- 
places,  as  manifest  at  once  their  desire  to  be  put  more  prominently  before 
the  body  of  American  tourists,  and  their  fitness  to  fill  the  places  thus  as- 
Bumed.  For  the  present  year,  and  pending  necessary  investigations,  the 
brief  references  here  made  are  exclusively  to  "things  at  home."] 

In  an  early  paper  of  the  "  Short-Trip  Guide," 
some  reference  was  made  to  the  fact  that  Americans, 
paying  first  visits  to  Europe,  would  not  find  every- 
thing better  than  their  own ;  and  the  few  words  fol- 
lowing are  to  be  devoted  to  citing  a  few  of  the  in- 
stances to  which  attention  has  been  specially  called, 
and  which  the  Xew  "World,  where  it  is  not  linked 
with  the  Old,  certainly  stands  no  whit  behind  it. 

On  no  part  of  the  globe,  for  instance,  can  the 
tourist  expect  to  find  hotels  supplying  both  splendor 
and  comfort,  to  a  greater  degree  than  the  best  of 
those  of  New  York  and  some  of  the  other  leading 
American  cities.  They  have  long  been  creditable 
wonders,  in  the  estimation  of  travellers  and  the 
pencilliugs  of  writers. 

Of  course  first  among  them,  as  the  down-town 
New  York  hotel  that  the  people  would  no  more  allow 
to  be  moved  than  the  City  Hall,  stands  the  noble  old 
AsTOE  House,  its  massive  granite  outside  as  com- 


REMmDERS,  ETC.  381 

manding  as  ever,  and  the  imbouiKlcd  extent  of  the 
interior  just  thoroughly  refitted  with  all  the  luxury 
known  to  modern  art ;  while  its  location  opposite 
the  Fark  and  the  new  Post  Office,  at  the  city-centi-e, 
as  well  as  the  centre  of  business  and  the  termini  of 
nearly  all  the  lines  of  cars  in  Xew  York,  must  com- 
bine with  the  life-long  reputation  of  Col.  Charles  A. 
Stetson  and  his  sons,  Alex.  McC.  and  P.  Reddington, 
to  keep  it  for  many  a  long  year  at  the  head  of  the 
hotels  of  the  Western  Continent  and  make  its  repu- 
tation as  enduring  as  its  material  and  architecture. 
Closely  linked  with  this  is  the  splendid  new  St. 
James,  on  Franklin  Square,  Boston,  just  opened  un- 
der the  management  of  Mr.  J.  P.  M.  Stetson,  and 
admitted  to  be,  in  every  detail,  the  very  perfection 
of  beauty  as  a  building,  without  and  within,  and  of 
liberal  taste  in  arrangement  and  conveniences  for  the 
comfort  of  guests ;  while  still  a  third,  the  Stetson 
House,  Long  Branch  (]!^ew  Jersey),  supplies  the 
most  elegant  building  on  the  whole  coast,  the  most 
complete  accommodations  shown  at  any  American 
seaside  watering-place,  and  yet  one  more  proof,  in 
the  management  of  Mr.  Charles  A.  Stetson,  Jr.,  that 
there  is  not  one  of  this  able  family  but  knows  "  how 
to  keep  a  hotel."  Quite  the  equal  of  the  Astor  and 
its  dependencies  in  importance  and  popular  favor, 
too,  the  tourist  will  remember  the  splendid  up-town 
hotel,  the  Everett  House,  with  its  unequalled  loca- 
tion in  full  front  on  Union  Square,  Xew  York ;  its 
proximity  to  all  the  more  aristoci-atic  places  of  amuse- 
ment ;  the  magnificence  of  its  imusually  large  suites 
of  rooms,  in  which  not  a  potentate  of  Europe  would 


332  SHORT-TRIP   GUIDE. 

not  think  himself  honored  in  being  accommodated ; 
the  perfection  of  its  every  sendee  ;  and  last,  but  by- 
no  means  least,  the  air  of  cheerful  and  elegant  com- 
fort which  Mr.  Borrows  and  his  capable  assistants 
have  the  faculty  of  throwing  round  any  house  under 
their  management.  Nothing  beyond  these  houses 
(and  some  of  the  others  which  we  may  have  occa- 
sion to  characterize  in  our  next  issue)  can  be  found 
in  Europe ;  and  seldom  are  they  even  approached. 

Among  the  attractions  which  the  tourist  will 
find  abroad,  will  of  course  be  music.  But  he  will 
not  be  long  in  remembering,  listening  to  it,  say  in 
Paris,  that  a  firm  of  American  piano-manufacturerS, 
the  Messrs.  Stei^way,  won  the  first  prize  over  all 
European  and  American  competitors,  at  the  Great 
French  Exposition,  after  receiving  the  applause  of 
the  finest  musicians  of  the  Old  AYorld  and  delighting 
uncounted  thousands  with  the  power  and  sweetness 
of  their  instraments, — and  stand,  to-day,  confessedly 
at  the  head  of  that  diflScult  branch  of  constructive 
art,  in  the  whole  world.  He  will  see  Mlliards  played ; 
but  he  will  not  be  likely  to  ignore  the  great  masters 
of  the  cue  whom  he  has  left  behind  in  America,  and 
especially  Michael  Fhelan,  the  "  Father  of  Billiards," 
in  the  elevation  which  he  has  been  the  means  of 
giving  to  that  most  excellent  and  gentlemanlike 
amusement,  and  the  benefactor  to  the  whole  billiard- 
world  which  he  has  become,  in  supplying,  in  con- 
junction with  his  practical  partner,  3Ir.  Collender,  the 
Standard  Americaj?  Billiard  Table,  matchless  on 
either  continent  and  indispensable  wherever  amuse- 
ment has  risen  to  the  dignity  of  an  art. 


REMINDERS,  ETC.  333 

The  tourist  will  deal  with  European  bankers, 
wisely  taking  a  hint  already  given  and  carrying  over 
his  funds  in  drafts  or  letters  of  credit,  issued  by  some 
one  or  more  of,  the  almost  royal  houses  in  finance, 
bearing  the  honored  names  of  Duxcax,  Sherman  & 
Co.,  of  Pine  and  Nassau  Streets,  Avho  have  supplied 
exchange,  and  courteous  dealing  in  effecting  it,  to 
half  the  travelling  generation ;  Brown  Brothers 
&  Co.,  of  59  "Wall  Street,  whose  very  title  suggests 
Parliament,  British  solidity  married  to  American 
thrift,  and  the  Bank  of  England ;  Ja:mes  G.  King's 
Sons,  of  54  William  Street,  their  name,  like  their 
reputation,  one  that  the  nation  has  delighted  to 
honor;  or  John  Munroe  &  Co.,  of  No.  8  Wall 
Street,  who  have  not  only  efiected  exchange  for 
thousand  upon  thousand  of  Europe-bovind  Ameri- 
cans, but  laid  them  under  lasting  obligations  by  care 
of  their  letters,  free-reading-rooms  and  general  cour- 
tesy, at  their  corresponding  banking-house  at  No.  7 
Rue  Scribe,  Paris. 

He  will  look  upon  great  enterprizes  in  the  Old 
World ;  but  he  must  not  expect  to  find  any  one  of 
them — not  even  the  work  of  tunnelling  the  Alps  or 
opening  the  Suez  Canal,  at  all  to  be  compared  with 
that  which  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad  Company 
are  now  so  rapidly  pushing  forward  to  completion, 
with  almost  a  certainty  of  finishing  it  to  the  Pacific 
by  1870,  and  the  certainties  of  rich  return  for  invest- 
ments, to  those  who  purchase  their  bonds,  such  as  no 
other  enterprize  of  the  age  has  dreamed  of  offering. 

He  will  probably  visit  some  of  the  great  Spa- 
springs  of  Europe — Kissingen,  or  Baden,  or  Vichy, 


884  SHORT-TRIP  GUIDE. 

and  drink  the  health-giving  waters ;  but  in  the  midst 
of  all  the  gaieties  there  he  will  remember  the  Mis- 
siSQUOi  Spkijstg,  far  away  in  the  Green  Mountains  of 
American  Vermont,  and  witlx  agenpies  for  the  sale 
of  its  waters  now  established  everywhere, — doing 
every  day,  in  the  cure  of  Cancer,  Kidney-diseases, 
and  many  others  before  held  incurable,  a  work  as- 
tounding the  doctors  and  electrifying  the  world. 

Our  tourist,  acting  upon  a  previous  hint,  may 
and  should  insure  his  life  before  leaving  America. 
Whether  or  not  he  selects  the  Equitable  Life  As- 
suBANCE  Society  of  tue  Uxited  States,  92  Broad- 
way, New  York,  as  the  medium  of  that  great  jus- 
tice to  himself  and  his  family — one  thing  is  sure, 
that  he  will  not  find,  even  in  life-assuring  England, 
the  parallel  of  that  nobly-managed  purely-mutual 
institution,  growing  faster,  and  ameliorating  the 
condition  of  more  families,  than  any  other  of  its 
class  in  existence. 

He  may  need  jewelry,  and  fancy,  in  advance,  that 
he  can  find  it  in  richer  profusion  abroad  than  at 
home.  But  if,  before  he  leaves,  he  should  chance  to 
encounter  the  griffin  of  C.  A.  Stevens,  the  jeweller 
par  excellence.,  of  New  York  Fourteenth  St.  (a  cut  of 
which  wonderful  animal  has  been  kindly  loaned  to 
make  this  paragraph  clearer),  then  he  may  find  him- 
self amid  such  a  profusion  of  all  that  is  rich,  rare 
and  tasteful,  in  jewelry,  bijouterie,  plate  and  articles 
of  vertu^  as  scared)^  to  allow  him  to  go  to  Paris  or 
Geneva  with  many  desires  unfilled. 

Finally,  it  scarcely  matters  on  what  steamer  he 
may  take  his  way  to  Europe,  he  is  not  likely  to  es- 


J 


REMmDEES,  ETC.  335 

cape  admiring  his  handsome  face  in  a  mirror  supplied 
by  that  prince  of  dealers  in  looking-glasses,  picture- 
fi-ames,  chroijios  and  other  pictures,  John  S.  Wil- 
LAKD,  of  Canal*  Stx'eet,  who  not  only  manufactures 
and  supplies  all  that  is  elegant  and  excellent  in  his 
line,  but  has  (and  deserves)  a  preemption  on  all  the 
vessels  that  carry  vain  and  mirror-gazing  humanity 
over  the  waters  of  the  world. 


29 


THE    EXD. 


SHORT-  TRIP    G  UIDE.—ANNO  UNGEMENTS. 


GUIDE-BOOKS     FOR    TRAVELLERS, 

PUBLISHED    BY 

D.    APPLE  TON  &    CO. 


Appletons'  Illustrated  Railway  and 
Steam  Navigation  Guide, 

Containing  the  Time-Tables  of  the  Railways  of  the  United  States  and 
the  Canadas.  Also,  One  Hundred  Railway  Maps,  together  with 
Monthly  Account  of  Railways  and  their  Progress,  and  Anecdotes 
and  Incidents  of  Travel,  etc.,  etc. 

u. 

Appletons'  Hand-Book  of  Ameri- 
can Travel, 

Containing  a  Full  Description  of  the  Principal  Cities,  Towns,  and  Places 
of  Interest,  together  with  the  Routes  of  Travel  and  Leading  Hotels 
throughout  the  United  States  and  British  Provinces,  i  vol.,  i  amo. 
Illustrated  with  Maps §4.00 

III. 

Appletons'    Northern   Hand-Book 
of  Travel, 

Containing  an  Account  of  the  Principal  Watering  Places  and  Summer 
Resorts,  including  Niagara,  Trenton  Falls,  Lalce  Superior,  etc. 
Illustrated  with  Maps.      I   vol.,  izmo §2.00 

IV. 

Appletons'    Southern    Hand-Book 
of  Travel, 

Containing  a  Complete  Account  of  all  the  Cities  and  Towns  in  the 
Southern  States.     Illustrated  with  Maps,     i  vol.,  I2mo...§2.oo 


SHORT.  TRIP    G  UIBE.—ANNO  TINCEMENTS. 


APPLETONS' 

(so-called) 


Works   of   Charles   Dickens. 

Now  Co7>!j>2eie,  iti  i8  Vols.     Paper  Covers.     Price,  $5.00. 


UST  OF  THE  WORKS. 


Oliver  Twist 172  j 

American  Notes 104 

Dombey  and  Son 336 

Martin  Chuzzlewit 341 

Our  Mutual  Friend 340 

Christmas  Stories 163 

Tale  of  Two  Cities 144 

Hard  Times,  and  Addi- 
tional Christmas  Sto- 
ries   202 

Nicholas  Nickleby 338 


.  25  cts. 
IS  " 
35  " 
35  " 
35  " 
25  " 


Bleak  House 352  pp..  35  cts. 

Little  Dorrit 343 

Pickwick  Papers 326 

David  Copperfield 351 

Bamaby  Rudge 257 

Old  Curiosity  Shop 221 

Great  Expectations 183 

Sketches 194 

Uncommercial  Traveller, 

Pictures  of  Italy,   and 

Reprinted  Pieces 300 


LIBRARY  EDITION   OF 

CHARLES  DICKENS'S  WORKS, 

To  be  completed  in  Six  Volumes,   with  Thirty-two  Illustrations. 
Price,  %-L.-]$per  vol.,  or  $10.50  the  set. 

D.  Applfton  &  Co.,  Publishers,  New  York. 
h 


SEORT-TRIP    GUIDE.— ANNOUNCEMENTS. 


APPLETONS'  EDITION 


WAVERLEY    NOVELS, 

NOW  PUBLISHING. 

From  New  Stereotype  Plates,  uniform  "with  the  Neia  Edition  of  Dickens,  con. 

taining  aUthe  Notes  of  the  Author,  and  printed  from  tite 

latest  edition  of  the  A  uthorized  Text. 

TO  BE  COMPLETED  IN  TWENTY-FIVE  VOLUMES. 

Price.,  Twenty-five  Cents  each. 

Printed  on  fine  white  paper,  clear  type,  and  convenient  in  size. 
PRONOUNCED    "A    MIRACLE   OF   CHEAPNESS." 


OKDER  OF  ISSITB. 


.  WAVERLEY. 

.  rVANHOE. 

,  KENILWORTH. 

.  GDY  MANNERING. 

,  ANTIQUARY. 

ROB  ROY. 

OLD  MORTALITY. 
.  THE  BLACK  DWARF,  and  A  LEGEND 
OF  MONTROSE 

BRIDE  OF  LAMMERMOOR. 
,  HEART  OF  MID-LOTHIAN. 
.  THE  MONASTERY. 
,  THE  ABBOT. 
,  THE  PIRATE. 


14.  FORTUNES  OF  NIGEL. 

15.  PEVERIL  OF  THE  PEAK. 

16.  QUENTIN  DURWARD. 

17.  ST.  RONAN'S  WELL. 

18.  REDGADNTLET. 

19.  THE    BETROTHED,  and    HIGHLAND 

WIDOW. 
SO.  THE  TALISMAN. 
21.  WOODSTOCK. 
83.  FAIR  JIAID  OF  PERTH. 
S3.  ANNE  OF  GEIERSTEIN. 
94.  COUNT  ROBERT  OF  PARIS. 
25.  THE  SURGEONS  DAUGHTER. 


The  first  volume,  "Waverley,"  issued  on  Fehruary  22,  1868.  A  volume 
will  be  published  about  once  a  fortnig;ht,  until  the  Series  is  completed.  Any 
volume  mailed,  post  firee,  on  receipt  of  price. 

For  SIX  DOLLARS  we  will  send  by  mail,  prepaid,  as  fast  as  published,  the 
entire  set  of  Waverley  No\'els,  and  a  copy  of  a  new  Steel-pl.\te  Portrait 
OF  Sir  Walter  Scott,  suitable  for  fiiaming. 

For  TEN  DOLLARS  we  will  send  by  mail,  prepaid,  a  set  of  Dickens  (in 
uniform  style),  18  volumes,  and  Waverley,  25  volumes.  The  cheapest  Ten 
Dollars'  worth  to  be  found  in  the  whole  range  of  Literature.  Forty-three  vol- 
umes for  ten  dollars ! 

Any  Fifty  Volumes,  selected  at  pleasure,  will  be  sent  to  one  address  (by 
express  at  the  expense  of  the  purchaser)  on  receipt  of  the  retail  price,  less  20 
per  cent. 

Any  One  Hundred  Volumes,  selected  at  pleasure,  will  be  sent  to  one  ad- 
dress (by  express  at  the  expense  of  the  purchaser)  on  receipt  of  the  retail  price, 
less  25  per  cent. 

D.  APPLETON  &  CO., 

90,  92  &  94  GRAND  STREET. 


SHOUT-  TRIP    G  UIDE.—ANXO  UKCE2IENTS. 
1868.  CUNARD  LINE.  1868. 


BRITISH  AND  NORTH  AMERICAN 

Royal    Mail    Steamships, 

Between  New  York  and  Liverpool, 

CALLING  AT  CORK  HARBOR. 

MAIL  STEAMERS,  CARRYING  NO  EMIGRANTS. 

Scotia,  Russia,  Cuba, 

Persia,  Java,  China, 

Australasian. 

From  New  York^  every  IVednesday. 

From  Liverpool^  every  Saturday. 

RATES    OF    PASSAGE. 

From  New  York  to  Liverpool,  Cabin §130.00  gold. 

"  «'         Second  Cabin 80.00    « 

"  to  Paris,  Cabin 145.00    " 

From  Liverpool  to  New  York,  Cabin £26. 

"  "  Second  Cabin £18. 

Extra  Steamers^  carrying  First  and  Third  Class. 

Siberia,  Palmyra,  Tripoli, 

Samaria,  Tarifa,  Aleppo, 

Malta,  Marathon,  Morocco, 

Hecla,  Kedar,  Sidon, 

Olympus. 

From  New  York^  every  Thursday. 

From  Liverpool^  every  Tuesday. 

RATES    or    PASSAGE. 

From  New  York  to  Liverpool,  Cabin S80.00  gold. 

From  Liverpool  to  New  York,  Cabin 15,  17,  and  ai  guineas. 

For  freight  or  passage,  apply  to 
Ives  G.  Bates,  Boston ;  D.  &  C.  MacIver,  Queenstown ; 
D.  &  C.  MacIver,  Liverpool. 

E.  CUNARD, 

4  Bowling  Green  &  in  Broadway,  N.  Y. 
d 


SEORT-  TRIP    G  UIDE.—ANNO  UE CEMENTS. 


1868. 


STEJMERS  TO  FRJNCE  DIRECT, 

Transit    by    Railroad,    and    crossing    the    English 
Channel  avoided. 


THE 

General   Transatlantic    Co.'s 

FIRST-CLASS  STEAMSHIPS, 

Under  Government  Contract  to  carry  the  Mails  between 

NEW    YORK    AND    HAVRE, 

CALLING  AT  BREST  EACH  WAY. 

Sailing  from  New  Tork  every  alternate  Saturday. 

From   Havre    every  alternate    Thursday.,    and   Brest^ 

Saturday. 

PeREIRE.  I  ViLLE   DE  PaRIS. 

Napoleon  III.  |  Europe. 

St.  Laurent.  I  Lafayette. 

Lafayette.  |  Washington. 

The   Steamers  of  this  Line   do   not  carry  Steerage 

Passengers. 

MEDICAL  ATTENDANCE  FREE  OF  CHARGE. 

For  Freight  or  Passage,  apply  to 

GEORGE  MACKENZIE,  Agent, 

58  Broadway,  New  York. 

At  PARIS,  12  Boulevard  des  Capucines  (Grand  Hotel). 

At  HAVRE,  Messrs.  Wm.  Iselin  &  Co. 

At  BREST,  Messrs.  Kerjegu  &  Villeferon. 

The  Company's  Wharf  at  New  York  is  at  the  foot  of  Mor- 
ton Street,  Pier  No.  50,  North  River. 


SHORT- TRIP    G  UIDR—AyyO  UNGEMENTS. 

NEW  YORK  TO  LIVERPOOL, 

INMAN  LINE. 


THE  LIVERPOOL,  NEW  YORK  AND  PHILADELPHIA 
STEAMSHIP  COMPANY 
Will  dispatch  the  following  splendid  full-powered  Clyde-built  Steam- 
ships, from  New  York  for  Liverpool,  and 
all  Parts  of  Europe, 

Every  Saturday,  at   i   p.  m.,  from 
Pier  +5,  N.  R., 

Carrying  the  British  and  United  States  Mails. 

CITY  OF  PARIS Capt.  Kennedy. 

ANTWERP "    Mirehouse. 

LONDON "    Brooks. 

BOSTON "    Roskell. 

BALTIMORE "    Leitch. 

BROOKLYN  (buUdIng) 


HALIFAX  BRANCH. 

For  Halifax,  N.  S.,  and  Liverpool,  every  Alternate 

Monday. 

Carrying  the  British  and  United  States  Mails. 

CITY  OF  NEW  YORK Capt.  TibbitB. 

"        WASHINGTON "     Halcrow. 

ETNA "     Bridgman. 

RATES    OF    PASSAGE. 

To  Liverpool $100  gold.  I  From  Liverpool.  $75,  $85,  |105,  gold. 

"Halifax 20    "       A  redaction  of  ten  per  cent,  allowed 

on  return  tickets. 


JOHN  G.  DALE,  Agent, 

No.  IS  BROADWAY,  New  York. 
PHILADELPHIA  OFFICE,  411  Chestnut  Street. 
/ 


SHORT- TRIP    0  UIDE:—ANNO  UNCEME^TS. 
THE 

National  Steamship  Company 

(limited) 

Dispatch  the  following  Splendid  and  Commodious  Ships 

of  their  Line, 

FROM  NEW  YORK  TO  LIVERPOOL, 

CALLING    AT    CORK    HARBOR, 

Every  Saturday, 

From  the  Company's  Wharf,  Pier  47,  North  River. 

FRANCE Capt.  Grace. 

ENGLAND Capt.  Thompson. 

THE  QUEEN Capt.  Grogan. 

DENMARK Capt.  Thomson. 

HELVETIA Capt.  Cutting. 

ERIN Capt.  Hall. 

PENNSYLVANIA Capt.  Lewis. 

VIRGINIA. Capt.  Prowse. 

LOUISIANA Capt.  Webster. 


Rates  of  Passage,  payable  in  U.  S.  Currency. 

To  Liverpool  or  Queenstown §ioo 

London I  lo 

Hamburg 125 

Bremen 135 

Antwerp 125 

Havre 125 

Paris 125 

Tickets  to  Liverpool  and  Return 180 

Prepaid  Cabin  Tickets  from  Liverpool  or  Queenstown 90 

For  further  information,  apply  to 

F.  W.  J.  HURST,  Manager, 

57  BROADWAY. 


SHORT-TRIP    G UIDE.—ANXO UKCEMENTS. 


New  York  and  Liverpool  Steamers, 


LIVERPOOL  AND  GREAT  WESTERN 
STEAM  COMPANY 

Dispatch  the  following  New  First-class,  Full-power  Steamships,  sailing 
as  follows  : 

From  Liverpool on  Tuesdays. 

From  New  York on  Wednesdays. 

COLORADO R.  C.  Cutting 3,015  tons. 

MINNESOTA Jas.  Price 2,965 

MANHATTAN J.  A.  Williams 2,965 

NEBRASKA Jas.  Guard 3,392 

NEVADA 3,000 

IDAHO 3,000 


STATE-ROOMS  LARGE  AND  WELL  VENTILATED. 

STATE-ROOMS  AND  SALOONS  ALL  ON  DECK. 


AGENTS. 

GuioN  &  Co Liverpool. 

J.  M.  CuRRiE Paris  and  Havre. 

A.  S.  Petrie  &  Co London. 

WILLIAMS  &  GUION, 

71  W.iLL  Street,  New  York. 
h 


SHORT-  TRIP    0  UIDE.—ANNO  TIN  CEMENTS. 

NORTH  GERMAN  LLOYD. 

STEAM  BETWEEN 

NEW    YORK    AND    BREMEN, 

VIA     SOUTHAMPTON. 
The  Screw  Steamers  of  the  North  German  Lloyd 

AlvrERIC  A Capt.  G.  Ernst.  !  UNION ....  Capt.  H.  J.  Von  Santen. 

NEW  YORK Capt.  F.  Dreyer.  I  WESER Capt.  G.  Wenke. 

HERMANN.... Capt. W.H.Wenke.  '  RHEIN(bnUdin?). Capt. J.C.Meyer. 
HANSA. . .  .Capt.  K.  V.  Oterendorp.  i  MAIN  (bnildint;). 
BREMEN.. Capt. H.  A. F.Nevnaber.  i  DONAU  (building). 
DEUTSCHLAND.Capt.H.WesselB.  | 

Run  regularly  between  New  York,  Bremen,  and  Southampton. 

Carrying  the  United  States,  British,  and  German  Mails. 

From  Bremen,  every  Saturday.     From  Southampton,  every  Tuesday. 

From  New  York,  every  Thursday. 

PRICE    OF    PASSAGE. 

From  New  York  to  Bremen,  London,  Ha-vre  and  Southampton. 
First  Cabin,  5 1 2.0.00;    Second  Cabin,  $72.00;   Steerage,  $36.00. 

From  Bremen,  London,  Ha-vrc  or  Southampton,  to  New  York. 
First  Cabin,  $120.00;  Second  Cabin,  $72.00;  Steerage,  S40.00. 

Price  of  Passage  payable  in  Gold. 
This  Company  also  dispatches  regularly,  on  the  first  of  each  month, 

From  Bremen  and  Baltimore, 

Via  Southampton, 

The  new  first-class  Steamships, 

BALTIMORE Capt.  Vockler.  1  BERLIN Capt.  Undntsch. 

Price  of  Passage  from  Baltimore  to  Bremen,  Southampton,  London, 
or  Havre  :  Cabin,  $90;  Steerage,  $36.  From  Bremen,  Southampton, 
London  or  Havre,  to  Baltimore  :  Cabin,  $90 ;  Steerage,  $40.  Payable 
in  gold.  * 

The  above  vessels  have  been  constructed  in  the  most  approved  manner ; 
they  are  of  .3,000  tons,  and  700  horse-power  each,  and  are  commanded  by  men 
of  character  and  experience,  who  will  make  every  exertion  to  promote  the 
comfort  and  convenience  of  passengers.  They  touch  at  Southampton,  ou 
the  outward  trip,  for  the  purpose  of  landing  passengers  for  England  and 
France. 

These  vessels  take  freight  to  London  and  Hull,  for  which  ihrongh  bills 
of  lading  are  signed. 

An  experienced  surgeon  is  attached  to  each  vessel. 

All  letters  must  pass  through  the  post-offlce. 

qS^"  Specie  taken  to  Ha-sTe,  Southampton,  and  Bremen,  at  the  lowest 
rates. — For  further  particulars,  apply  to 

The  North  German  Lloyd,  Bremen ;  Oelrichs  &  Co., 
New  York;  A.  SCHUMACHER  &  Co.,  Baltimore; 
Keller,  Wallis  &  Postlethwaite,  Southampton ; 
Phillipps,  Graves,  Phillipps  &  Co.,  London.: 
Lherbette,  Kane  &  Co.,  Paris  and  Havre. 


SHORT-  TRIP    G  UIDE.—A^NO  UN  CEMENTS. 


Anchor  Line  of  Steamships 

TO  AND  FROM 

NEW  YORK  AND    GLASGOW, 

CALLING  AT  MOVILLE,  LONDONDERRY, 

To  Land  and  Embark  Passengers. 

The   fuU-powered  Clyde-built   Steamships 


Steamer.  Captain. 

Euro  PA J.  Craig. 

Columbia.. G.  Carnaghan. 
HiBERNlA. .  .R.  D.  Munro. 
Caledonia.  .J.  Macdonald. 


Steamer.  Captain. 

Iowa J.  Hedderwick. 

Britannia J.  Laird. 

United  Kingdom. 

J.  Donaldson. 


Round  Trip. 

Interm 

Steer. 

..$i6o... 

•$35- 

..$30 

..    i8o... 

.   40. 

••   35 

. .     200 . . . 

.   42. 

••   11 

. .     200 . . . 

.   42. 

■■    37 

. .     200 . . . 

.   42. 

■■   37 

.  .     200 . .  . 

•     42- 

■■   37 

Cambria  (building). 

Sail  from  Pier  20,  N.  R.,  New  York, 

Every  Saturday,  at  Noon. 

RATES    OF    PASSAGE,    PAYABLE    IN    CURRE^lCY. 

From  New  York  to  Cabins. 

Glasgow  or  Derry  . .  $90  and  $75 , 
London  via  Leith.  ..100  "  85. 
Havre     "        "  no    "     95, 

Hamburg         "  no    "     95 

Rotterdam      "  no    "     95, 

Antwerp  "  no    "     95, 

Cabin  Passengers  Booked  to  and  frorn  'Liverpool  at  same 
rates  as  Glasgow. 

Children  I  to  12  years,  Half  Fare.     Infants  Free. 
Pre-paid  Certificates  from  Glasgow  or  Derry — Cabins,  $90 

and  $75  ;  Intermediate,  $47;  Steerage,  %2>7- 

From    Hamburg,    Havre,    Antwerp,    Rotterdam,    etc. — 

Cabins,  ^iio  and  $95  ;  Intermediate,  $55  ; 

Steerage,  $45. 

•  Children  between  One  and  Twelve  Years Half  Fare. 

Infants  under  One  Year $5.00. 

HANDYSIDE  &  HENDERSON,  51  Union  Street,  Glasgow,  or 
96J  Foyle  Street,  Londonderry,  or 

HENDERSON  BROTHERS,  Agents, 

6  Bowling  Green,  New  York. 
k 


SHORT- TRIP    G  TJIDE.—ANNO UNCEMENTS. 

Pacific  Mail-Steamship  Company's 

THROUGH  U.  S.  MAIL  LINE 

TO 

California,  Japan  and  China. 


Leave  New  York  from  Pier  42,  North  River,  ist,  9th, 
1 6th  and  24th  days  of  each  month  (except  when  either  day- 
falls  on  Sunday,  then  on  the  preceding  Saturday),  closely 
connecting  via  Panama  Railroad  with  Steamers  from 
Panama  for  San  Francisco.     Schedule  time,  22  days. 

The  Steamer  leaving  New  York  on  the  9th  of  each 
month  will  closely  connect  with  a  steamer  of  the  China 
Line  to  leave  San  Francisco  for  Yokohama  the  sec- 
ond day  after  the  arrival  of  the  Panama  Steamer ;  except 
when  the  designated  day  falls  on  Sunday,  then  on  the  FOL- 
LOWING day. 

PROPOSED  DEPARTURES  FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO,  186S. 

"Japan,"  August  3.  1       "  Great  Republic,"  Oct.  3. 

"China,"  September  i.  |       "Japan,"  November  2. 

"  China,"  December  3. 

The  same  steamer  will  leave  Yokohama  two  days  after 
arrival,  for  Hong  Kong. 

The  Shanghae  Branch  Steamer  will  leave  Yokohama 
the  day  after  the  arrival  of  the  main  Steamer  from  San 
Francisco,  and  will  touch  at  the  Inland  Seaports  and 
Nagasaki. 

Through  Tickets  furnished  to  Ports  of  China, 
Japan  and  India,  and  State-rooms  assigned  on  applica- 
tion. The  holder  may  lie  over  at  Panama,  San  Francisco, 
or  Yokohama. 

250  pounds  of  baggage  allowed,  free,   to  each  adult ' 
Cabin  Passenger  for  Japan  or  China ;   100  pounds  to  Pas- 
sengers for  San  Francisco  or  intermediate  points. 

For  Passage  Tickets,  or  further  information,  apply  at 
the  Company's  Ticket  Office,  on  the  Wharf,  Pier  42,  North 
River,  foot  of  Canal  Street,  New  York,  to 

F.  R.  BABY,  Agent. 


SHORT- TRIP    G  UIDE.—ANKO  UX CEMENTS. 

Brown   Brothers  &   Co., 

No.  59  WALL  STREET, 

NEW     YORK, 


COMMERCIAL    AND    TRAVELLERS' 
CREDITS, 

FOR  USE  IN  AMERICA  AND  ABROAD. 


LETTERS  OF  CREDIT  FOR  TRAVELLERS, 

EXCHANGE  ON  LONDON  AND  PARIS, 
SIGHT  DRAFTS  ON  EDINBURGH  and  GLASGOW, 
STOCKS  AND  BONDS  BOUGHT  AND  SOLD 

AT    THE 

NEW  YORK  STOCK  EXCHANGE. 


JAMES  G.  KING'S  SONS, 

54  WILLIAM  STREET,  NEW  YORK. 


30 


SHORT-TRIP    GUIDE.— ANNOUNCEMENTS. 

Duncan,    Sherman    &    Co., 
BANKERS, 

Corner  of  Pine  and  Nassau  Streets,  New  York, 

ISSUE 

CIRCULAR  NOTES  and  TRAVELLING  CREDITS, 

Available  in  all  the  Principal  Cities  of  the  World. 


TRANSFERS   OF    MONEY   BY  TELEGRAPH   TO   EUROPE 
AND  THE  PACIFIC  COAST. 


Interest  allowed  on  Deposit  Accounts. 

John  Munroe  &  Company, 

AMERICAN  BANKERS, 

No.  7  Rue  Scribe,  Paris,  and  No.  8  Wall  Street, 
New  York, 

ISSUE 

CIRCULAR  LETTERS  of  CREDIT  for  TRAVELLERS 

In  all  Parts  of  Europe,  etc. 

ALSO, 

COMMERCIAL    CREDITS. 


SHORT- TRIP    G  UIDE.—ANNO  UNCEMENTS. 

EVERETT  HOUSE, 

UNION   SQUARE, 

NEW  rORK. 

W.  B.  BORROWS. 


On  the  European  Plan. 


MOST  CHARMINGLY  LOCATED  HOUSE  IN 
AMERICA. 


SUITES     OF     ROOMS     OF      ESPECIAL 
ELEGANCE, 


FRONTAGE  ON  THE  SQUARE, 


All  the  Details  of  Luxury. 


SHORT- TRIP    G  UIBE.—ANl^O  UFCEMENTS. 


ASTOR  HOUSE, 

NEW  YORK, 

Opposite  Cmr  Hall  Park. 
Thoroughly  refitted,  and  with  all  Latest  Improvements. 

CHARLES  A.  STETSON'S  SONS. 

p 


SHORT-  TRIP    0  UIDE.—ANNO  UNCEMEXTS. 


ST.  JAMES   HOTEL, 

FRANKLIN  SQUARE,  BOSTON,  Mass. 
J.  P.  M.  STETSON,  Proprietor. 

One  of  the  best  situated,  most  elegant,  and  most  commodious  Houses 
in  America. 


STETSON  HOUSE, 

LONG   BRANCH,  New  Jersey. 
C.  A.  STETSON,   Jr.,  Lessee. 

Most  elegant  and  fashionable  House  on  the  best  Beach  of  the  American 
Coast. 

9 


SHORT-  TRIP    G  UIDE.—ANNO  UNCEMEKTS. 

STEINWAY   &    SONS 

TRfUMPHANT 

AT   THr 

Universal  Exposition,  Paris,  1867. 

STEINWAY  &  SONS 

HAVE    BEEN    AWARDED 

The  First  Grand  Gold  Medal 

For  American  Pianos  in  all  Three  Styles  Exhibited,  viz.,  Grand,  Square,  and 
Upright,  this  Medal  being  DISTINCTLY  CLASSIFIED  FIRST  IN  ORDER 
OF  MERIT,  and  placed  at  the  head  of  the  List  of  all  Exhibitors,  in  proof  of 
which  the  following 

OFFICIAL  CERTIFICATE 
Of  the  President  and  Members  of  the  International  Jury  on  Musical  Instru- 
ments (Class  X)  is  subjoined:  "  Paris,  July  20,  1867. 

"  I  certify  that  the  First  Gold  Medal  for  American  Pianos  has  been  unns- 
imously  awarded  to  Messrs.  Steinwav  by  the  Jury  of  the  International  Ex- 
hibition.    First  on  the  List  in  Class  X. 

"MELINET,  President  of  International  Jury. 
Georges  Kastner,  "1 
Ambroise  Thomas,         Members  of  the 
Ed.  Hansuck,         >  ,  .      ,  , 

F.  E.  Gevaert,  International  Jury.' 

J.  ScHIEDMA'i'ER,        J 

This  unanimotts  decision  of  the  International  Class  Jury,  indorsed  by  the 
Supreme  Group  Jury,  and  affirtned\>y  the  Imperial  Commission,  being /Aejlna/ 
verdict  of  the  only  tribunal  determining  the  rank  of  the  awards  at  the  Exposi- 
tion, places  The  Steinivay  Pianos  at  the  head  of  all  others,  in  competition  with 
over  Four  Hundred  Pianos  entered  by  the  most  celebrated  European  and 
American  manufacturers. 


STEINWAY   &    SONS  . 

WERE  ALSO  AWARDED  A 

FIRST  PRIZE  MEDAL 

At  the  Great  INTERNATIONAL  EXHIBITION,  London,  1862,  for  Power- 
fiJ,  Clear,  Brilliant,  and  Sympathetic  Tone,  with  Excellence  of  Workmanship  as 
shown  in  Grand  and  Square  Pianos,  in  Cotnpetition  -with  269  Pianos  from  all 
parts  oftlieWorld. 

STEINWAY  &  SONS,  in  addition  to  the  above,  have  taken  Thirty-five 
First  Premiums,  Gold  and  Silver  Medals,  at  the  Principal  Fairs  held  in  this 
country  from  the  years  1855  to  1862  inclusive,  since  which  time  they  have  ruit 
entered  their  Piano-f&rtes  at  any  Local  Fair  in  the  United  States. 

EVERY  PIANO  IS  WARRANTED  FOR  FIVE  YEARS. 

Warerooms,  First  Floor  Steinway  Hall,  109  &  11 1  E.  14th  Street, 

Between  4th  Ave.  and  Irving  Place,  NEW  YORK. 


SEORT-  TRIP    G  UIDE.—ANFO  U^''CEMEIsrTa. 


Diamonds,    Pearls,    Sapphires, 

Emeralds,  Fine  Jewelry, 

and  Watches. 

ALSO, 

SILVER  &  PLATED  WARE, 

FRENCH  CLOCKS,  FANS, 

"  BRONZES,  OPERA  GLASSES, 

AND  OTHER  FANCY  GOODS. 

A  Choice  Selection  to  be  found  at 

C.   A.   STEVENS  &  CO.'S, 

40  EAST  FOURTEENTH  STREET, 

Union  Square,  New  York  City, 


SHORT-  TRIP    G  UIBE.—ANNO  UN  CEMENTS. 
THE  STANDARD 

American  Billiard  Table. 

This  is  the  best  and  only  reliable  Billiard  Table  manufac- 
tured, and  is  furnished  with  our 

IMPROVED  COMBINATION  CUSHION, 

Patented  November  2.bth^  1867. 

Besides  having  on  hand  Tables,  Balls,  Cloth,  Cues,  and  every  article 
appertaining  to  Billiards  proper,  we  are  manufacturing  a 


TABLE    FOR    THE    HOME    CIRCLE, 

Patented  Jpril  21  st^  1868, 

Combining  the  Library  Table,  the  Dining  Table,  and 
the  Billiard  Table. 

For  description  and  price,  address 

PHELAN  &  COLLENDER, 

Sole  Patentees  and  Manufacturers, 
Nos.  63,  65,  67  AN0  69  Crosby  Street,  New  York. 


SHORT-TRIP    Cr  UIDE.—AXXO  TTXCEMEXTS. 


550  MILES 

OF    THE 

Union   Pacific   Railroad. 

Running  West  from  Omaha  across  the  Continent, 

NOW  COMPLETED. 


THE  WHOLE 

GRAND  LINE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 

EXPECTED    TO    BE 

Opened  through  by  1870. 


FIRST    MORTGAGE    BONDS 

PAY 

Six  Per  Cent,  in  Gold, 

And  are  offered  for  the  present  at  Par,  and  accrued  Inter- 
est at  Six  per  Cent,  in  Currency,  from  July  i. 

OVER  NINE  PER  CENT.  INTEREST. 

Subscriptions  will  be  received  in  New  York,  at  the  Company's  Office, 
No.  20  Nassau  Street,  and  by' 

CoNTrsTENTAL  Nationai  Bank,  No.  t  Nasjau  Street, 
Clark,  Bodge  &  Co.,  Banliers,  No.  51  Wall  Street, 
John  J.  Cisco  &  Son,  Bankers,  No.  33  Wall  Street, 
and  by  BANKS  and  BANKERS  generally  throughout  the  United  States, 
of  whom  Maps  and  Descriptive  Pamphlets  may  be  obtained. 

JOHN  J.  CISCO,  Treasurer, 

NEW  YORK. 


SHORT- TRIP    G  UIBE.—ANKO  UNCEMENTS. 

REMARKABLE  CURES 

BY  THE 

Missisquoi  Spring  Water. 

CANCER. 

Dr.  Dixon,  an  eminent  surgeon  of  the  city  of  New  York,  and  Editor  of  the 
Scalpel,  in  a  letter  describing  the  effects  of  this  water  in  a  case  of  glandular 
cancer,  says : 

"  It  is  very  evident  that  the  use  of  the  Missisquoi  Spring  Water  has  raised  this 
lady  from  a  dying  condition  to  comfortable  health  and  strength. 

"  EDWARD  H.  DIXON,  M.  D." 

Mrs.  Dr.  Lozier,  Dean  of  the  Faculty  of  the  New  York  Medical  College  and 
Hospital  for  Women  and  Children,  writes : 

"  It  gives  me  great  pleasure  to  add  my  testimony  to  the  healing  properties  of 
the  Missisquoi  Spring  Water.  I  have  at  present  about  thirty  patients  using  it 
Three  -well-defined  cases  of  Uterine  Cancer  have  been  cttred  by  it.  ...  As  yet 
I  have  never  prescribed  the  Missisquoi  Spring  Water  without  good  effects  result- 
ing from  it  C.  S.  LOZIER,  M.  D., 

361  West  Thirty-fourth  Street,  New  York." 

Dr.  Howard,  of  Linden,  Genesee  County,  N.  Y.,  writes: 

"  I  wish  to  inform  you  of  my  cure  of  an  internal  cancer,  in  order  that  those 
who  are  similarly  afflicted  may  have  the  benefit  of  my  experience.  ...  I  am  an 
object  of  wonder  to  those  who  knew  me  while  suffering  with  that  terrible 
malady.  I  owe  my  life  to  the  Missisquoi  Spring  Water.  I  believe  it  to  be  a 
specific  for  cancer,  and,  from  what  I  have  seen  of  its  effects,  I  regard  it  as  a 
great  remedy  for  diseases  of  the  kidneys  and  all  cutaneous  disorders.  I  have 
advised  many  to  use  it,  and  can  bear  witness  to  its  wonderful  healing  powers. 
"JONATHAN  HOWARD,  M.  D." 

Dr.  Hawley,  of  Syracuse,  N.  Y.,  writes  in  relation  to  a  case  of  glandular 
cancer  of  seven  years'  standing: 

"  After  the  ulceration  began  it  steadily  progressed  until  the  summer  of  1866, 
and  then  it  had  become  fully  four  and  a  half  inches  long  by  three  inches  wide, 
and  was  surrounded  by  an  angry  red  margin,  from  which  radiated  in  every 
direction  bright-red  streaks,  many  of  them  from  six  to  eight  inches  long.  The 
ulcer  secreted  constantly  an  ichorous  watery  matter,  and  frequently  bled  to  an 
alarming  extent  ...  At  the  same  time  her  general  health  declined,  and  the 
stomach  became  so  irritable  as  to  loath  all  food  and  almost  reject  it  as  soon  as 
taken.     Every  symptom  presaged  an  early  fatal  termination." 

After  using  the  Missisquoi  Spring  Water,  he  adds :  "  In  short,  her  health 
was  renewed.  Yours  truly,  WILLIAM  A.  HAWLEY,  M.  D." 

DISEASES   OF   THE   KIDNEYS. 

In  all  diseases  of  the  Kidneys  and  Bladder  the  Missisquoi  Spring  Water 
acts  as  a  diuretic  with  marvellous  effect  It  is  a  specific  in  those  cases.  Hun- 
dreds have  been  cured  by  it 

IMPURITIES  OF   THE  BLOOD. 

The  Water  is  a  powerful  tonic,  and  a  great  remedy  for  all  diseases  arising 
from  impurity  of  the  blood. 

Pamphlets  containing  an  account  of  the  above  and  other  wonderful  cures, 
attested  by  eminent  physicians,  can  be  had  gratis  by  calling  at  or  addressing 
a  note  to 

MISSISQUOI   SPRINGS, 

535  BROADWAY,  CITY  OF  NEW  YORK. 


SHORT-  TRIP    G  UIDE.—ANNO  UFCEMENTS. 

John  S.  Willard  &   Co., 

MANUFACTURERS    OF    THE 

PRIZE      MEDAL     MIRRORS, 


Always    on    hand^    English^    French^    and   American 
Chromos. 


SEORT-TEIP    GUIDE.— ANNOUNCEMENTS. 
THE  GREATEST  AMERICAN  IDEA 

OF   A 

PROGRESSIVE  AND  PRACTICAL  AGE, 

IS  THE 

AMERICAN  SYSTEM 

OF  . 

MUTUAL  LIFE  ASSURANCE, 

OF  WHICH 

The  Best  Exponent  is  the 
EQUITABLE     LIFE     ASSURANCE    ASSO- 
CIATION, 

Office,  No.  92  Broadway,  New  York. 

WILLIAM  C.  ALEXANDER,  President. 

HENRY  B.  HTDE.  Yice-President 
GEO.  W.  PHILLIPS,  Actuary. 
JAMES  W.  ALEX.ANDER,  Secretary. 

Assets — $6,000,000.     Income,  $4,000,000. 

Policies  during  1867 — 547,000,000. 


AH  the  most  desirable  and  popular  kinds  of  Life  and 
Endowment  Policies  issued,  and  every  advan- 
tage appertaining  to  the  business  granted 
to  Policy  Holders. 
PURELY     MUTUAL. 
The  Charter  of  the  Society  requires  that  all  Profits  go 
to  the  Assured. 
DIVIDENDS  DECLARED  ANNUALLY, 

And  applied  as  cash  to  the  reduction  of  future  premiums.    Di\'idends  upon 

the  first  year's  premium  may  be  applied  to  reducing  the  second  year's 

premium,  and  so  on  annually  thereafter. 
The  Assured  have  the  option  annually  of  applying  these  dividends  in  any 

of  the  Fni  foixowixg  Wats,  under  the  rules  of  the  Society  : 
First— To  the  permanent  increase  of  the  sum  assured ; 
Second — To  the  increase  of  the  sum  assured  for  one  year  or  a  term  of  years ; 
Third — To  the  permanent  reduction  of  the  premiums ; 
Fourth — To  the  reduction  of  the  premiums  for  one  or  more  years ; 
Fifth— To  the  reduction  of  the  number  of  years  in  which  premiums  are  to 

be  paid. 


UCSB  LIBMRl 


I'iiillllllS.S.^'f'O'^AL  LIBRARY 


A     000  609  222 


